Installing a sonar on an inflatable boat often turns into a real quest for the owner, because the classic installation methods applicable to fiberglass or aluminum simply do not work here. Hard transom is not all models, and drilling the board for the sake of fixing the emitter is a way to nowhere, which is guaranteed to deprive you of the warranty and tightness of cylinders. sounder On the soft side, it remains one of the hottest in the community of water motors.
The challenge is to ensure that the transducer's working surface is in stable contact with water, while eliminating air bubbles that completely block the signal. PVC It's subject to deformations, vibrations and temperature expansions, which require special approaches to fixation, but if you do it right, the picture quality on your screen will be not much different from what you see on a hard-bottomed boat.
In this article, we will look at the proven methods of installation, which help to avoid damage to the boat, you will learn what materials really work in contact with water and glue, and how to properly position the emitter so that it does not interfere with the rowing and does not create hydrodynamic noise.
Selection of installation site and surface preparation
The first thing you're going to encounter is finding the perfect spot on the tank, which should be in constant contact with water even when you're moving, but not interfere with propellers or oars, and the optimal zone is the bottom third of the inflated side, just ahead of the midfield, where the flow of water is most laminar and free from air bubbles that break off the bow.
The surface of the future attachment must be completely clean and fat-free. Use a special PVC cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, but in no case acetone or aggressive solvents that can damage the fabric structure. strap-belt or protective tape, attaching the sensor directly to them is not recommended due to different elasticity of materials.
⚠️ Attention: Never install the sensor in the area of the seams or adhesive joints of cylinders. Vibration and additional tension can lead to depressurization of the boat at the most inopportune time.It is also important to consider the angle of inclination of the working surface. Lowrance or GarminThe sensor must be installed perpendicular to the bottom of the reservoir. On an inflatable boat, where the side is rounded, this is more difficult to achieve, so it often requires the use of additional gaskets or special platforms.
Methods of fastening without drilling: glue and suckers
The most popular and safe method of fixation is the use of specialized adhesive compounds or powerful suction cups. The adhesive method is considered more reliable for stationary installation, since it eliminates the risk of sensor detachment at high speed.
Suction cups are good for mobility: you can easily remove equipment after fishing, but they have a significant drawback - at speed they often break off due to cavitation or microscopic irregularities on the surface of the balloon. To improve traction, many craftsmen recommend pre-sticking a small area of hard plastic or a piece of linoleum on board, and attach a sensor to it.
When choosing adhesive composition, pay attention to its water resistance and temperature range. Cheap options can "swim" in the summer sun, when the temperature of the black cylinder reaches 60-70 degrees. polyurethane It withstands such loads and retains its properties for years, allowing, if necessary, to carefully peel off the site using a dryer.
Use of a transom board and brackets
If your PVC boat is equipped with a hinged transom or has a rigid insert in the stern, the task is much simplified, in which case you can use standard transom mounts, which come with most sonars. However, due to the softness of the transom design, it may be necessary to strengthen the mounting point so that the sensor does not “walk” when the motor is running.
For boats without a hard transance, enthusiasts often make homemade brackets that are attached to the switches or the seat belts. stainless steel It's important that the weight of the structure doesn't topping up the boat or create sailing.
One of the most effective options is to use a removable board that is inserted between the sides in the aft section, and you can already attach the sensor to this board in any convenient way, without worrying about the integrity of the cylinders, and the board should be lightweight, but rigid enough to extinguish the vibrations.
☑️ Check before installing the bracket
Done: 0 / 5Cable protection and sealing of connections
The sonar cable is a weak link in the system, especially in an inflatable boat, where there is a high risk of mechanical damage. The wire must be securely fixed along the side to prevent it from getting under the paddle or getting tangled in the engine propeller. The best way to fix it is to use special clips on adhesive basis or gently fasten the cable with screeds to the harnesses without passing it.
All connections must be carefully insulated. Water that enters the connector can disable expensive electronics in minutes. Use shrink tubes with adhesive layer or high-quality insulation for electrical wiring. Pay special attention to the place of entry of the cable into the sensor body, which is where the leakage most often occurs.
⚠️ Attention: Always leave a small stock loop so that when the side of the boat deforms or pulls the wire does not vomit from the connector.For additional protection, you can use a corrugated tube or cable channel, but this will increase sailing and weight. The optimal solution is to use original accessories from the sonar manufacturer, which already have the necessary Protection rating. IPX7 Or higher.
Setting and calibration after installation
Once the sensor is fixed, you need to make an initial adjustment to the device, first check if there is any noise or signal interruptions on the screen that may indicate air entering the working surface. If the picture is unstable, try changing the angle of inclination slightly or strengthening the press.
Many modern sonars have automatic sensitivity calibration, run this mode on a deep stretch of water with a flat bottom, which allows the device to adapt to specific installation conditions and the type of water (fresh or salty). Don't ignore the possibility of manual adjustment if the automation is not working properly.
Why does the sonar see the bottom but not the fish?
Often the problem is not the sensor, but the settings. Try to reduce the Sensitivity value to remove noise, and increase the Update Rate. Also make sure that the frequency of radiation (200 kHz or 83 kHz) corresponds to depth: for small depths, high frequency is better, for large ones, low.
Be sure to check the device at different speeds, and if everything is fine at a low speed, and when you add gas, the picture disappears, then the sensor breaks off from the water or captures air bubbles, in which case you may need to move the mounting point or install an additional fairing.
Comparison of fastening methods: pros and cons
To make a final decision, you need to systematize the data on the different methods of installation, each method has its advantages and disadvantages, which become critical depending on the operating conditions of your boat.
Method Reliability Mobility Risk to the boat On glue (PVC) High. Low. Minimum Suction cups. Medium High. Missing. transom board High. Medium Missing. Cronstein aboard Medium Medium Medium. As you can see from the table, the adhesive method benefits in reliability, but loses in mobility. If you plan to often move equipment between boats or store it separately, you should consider the option of a suction board or reinforced suction cups.
Use silicone sealant as a temporary fixator to test the installation site before final gluing, allowing you to "try on" the sensor on water without obligation.
Frequent errors and ways to fix them
One of the most common mistakes is to place the sensor too close to the motor. The vortex flows from the propeller create a zone of turbulence that renders the sonar readings useless. The minimum distance should be at least 30-40 cm from the rotor axis in calm water, and more for high-speed boats.
Another mistake is ignoring the water temperature. Cold water is denser and the signal is better, but in the summer, when you heat the balloon, the glue can soften. Always adjust for seasonality of operation. Also, you should not attach the sensor to an area where you can hit it with your foot when you board the boat.
Keep the sensor's surface clean, or the algae or oil film buildup drastically reduces efficiency, and rub the pooch with soft cloth regularly and check for scratches.
The key to success is the cleanliness of the surface and the absence of air bubbles between the sensor and the water, and any air layer blocks the ultrasound.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can I attach the sonar sensor to a two-balloon PVC boat between the cylinders?
Technically, this is possible if you use a platform that supports both cylinders, but it is not recommended, and this is where foam and air bubbles often accumulate from the nasal wave, which will lead to permanent loss of signal, and it is better to move the mount closer to the outer edge of one of the cylinders.
Will PVC glue damage the structure of the balloon when removed?
With the use of specialized PVC adhesives and the right dismantling technology (hair dryer heating and careful cutting), the fabric structure is intact, but traces of the glue will still remain, and the place will differ in color if the boat burns out in the sun.
What glue is best for mounting the platform under the sensor?
The best results are shown by two-component polyurethane adhesives (such as Texacol or its analogues), designed specifically for the repair of inflatable boats, which create an elastic and water-resistant seam that withstands deformation.
Will the sonar work if the sensor is set at an angle of 10-15 degrees?
Small deviations (up to 10 degrees) are usually offset by electronics, but a heavy blockage can cause the beam to go sideways rather than vertically down. This is especially critical on the go. Try to get an angle close to 90 degrees relative to the water surface.