Inflatable fishing changes its requirements when a sonar is introduced, and it turns chaotic tackle throws into targeted hunting, allowing you to see the bottom relief and the accumulation of fish in real time. But inflatable boat owners often face a dilemma: how to securely fix expensive electronics on a soft tank or transom so as not to lose the device and damage the boat itself.
Self-mounting requires a variety of nuances, from the rigidity of the inflated side to the vibrations transmitted from the engine. sounder It will go blind from air bubbles or, worse, it will fall into the water, and in this article we will look at proven fixation methods, materials selection and secrets that will help you create a reliable mounting system.
It is important to understand that there is no universal solution, since the configuration of boats and sonar models (for example, the design of the aircraft). Garmin Striker or Lowrance HookYou'll have to adapt the general principles to your specific situation, given the weight of the battery, the length of the cable and the operating conditions, and a well-designed mounting unit will last for years.
Choosing the optimal location for installation
The first and most critical step is to determine where the display and the sensor will be located, and for inflatable boats, this is a problem with an asterisk, because there is no hard transom in the classical sense, but there is a soft balloon fabric. Place of installation It should provide a free view of the screen, even when you are sitting on the bank, and not interfere with the operation of oars or motor control.
The most common solution is to fix the inside of the tanning board, which is convenient because it's rigid and close to the motor, which reduces the cable's path to the sensor, but there is a risk of damage to the screen on the side when you're worried or sloppy, and the alternative is to mount on an inflated cylinder, but this requires a special area to distribute the load.
And the battery is also very well positioned, because the lead batteries are heavy, and their center of gravity should be as much shifted as possible to the bottom and center of the boat to keep the boat stable, the power cable should not be stretched, otherwise the boat may break off the contacts, and think about the trajectory of the wires in advance.
When choosing a mounting point, also consider the angle of view of the sonar. The sensor should look downwards, without a blockage towards the stern or nose, otherwise the picture will be distorted. If you plan to use a motorized boat, make sure that the mount does not block access to the drain valve or carrier handles.
Types of inflatable boat anchorages
The accessories market offers many options, but not all are suitable for self-implementation. The simplest, but least reliable way is to use suction cups. They are kept on a smooth surface of the balloon, but can unstuck during temperature changes or prolonged vibration. Suction cups. It is only a temporary solution for calm water.
A more serious approach is to use rigid plywood or plastic platforms that cover the balloon, often called "platform girders," which are pulled together by straps or Velcro straps and create a rigid base for mounting the device. sonar-holdingIt can withstand the shaking of the wave.
- 🔹 Hard brackets made of aluminum or stainless steel, fastened to a transom board - the most reliable option for a stationary installation.
- 🔹 Flexible holders on Velcro, glued to the balloon - suitable for light models, but require degreasing of the surface.
- 🔹 Removable racks installed in keys or special sockets are a mobile solution that does not require glue or drilling.
Special attention should be paid to the homemade PVC profile designs, which are 50-70 mm in diameter pipes that can be welded or glued into a light frame that will repeat the bending of the balloon, which distributes pressure and prevents the sharp corners of the device from damaging the fabric of the boat, the main thing is the quality of the gluing and the absence of sharp edges.
Can I attach the echo sounder directly to the balloon without a platform?
It's not recommended to attach the device directly to the tank. First, the soft surface will cushion the vibrations, creating a "porridge" on the screen. Second, the sharp edges of the body can rub the fabric when the boat is moving. Always use an intermediate rigid platform or substrate from an EVA mat.
Manufacture of transom fastening DIY
If you want to get the maximum reliability, the best solution is to create your own bracket for a trans board. For this you will need a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood (10-12 mm thick) or textolite, as well as a set of bolts and nuts made of stainless steel. transom board PVC is usually wide enough on boats that allows you to place not only the sonar, but also the battery.
The process begins with marking. Put the device on the board and determine the optimal height so that the screen does not overlap the sides of the boat or your clothes. Cut the base into shape, round the corners and be sure to treat the edges with varnish or epoxy to protect against moisture. Then drill holes under the fasteners.
☑️ Tools for the manufacture of fastenings
To fix the device itself to the manufactured base, standard brackets are often used, complete with a sonar, or universal hinge joints. It is important to use growers or a thread lock, since the vibration of the motor can unwind even tightly tight nuts. Articulated joint It will allow you to tilt the screen at the right angle depending on the position of the sun.
When mounting on a transom, make sure that the bolt hats do not protrude from the outside of the board, otherwise they can tear the boat when pumped or in contact with obstacles. All metal elements must be reliably protected from corrosion, as salt water and fish mucus quickly destroy ordinary metal.
Installation of the sensor and cable laying
Installing a sensor is where 90 percent of the success in getting a good picture lies. On PVC boats, the sensor is most often mounted on a remote bracket behind a transom or inside a boat, if the design permits. External mounting gives a cleaner signal, but requires protection from impacts to the bottom.
The power cable and the signal cable cannot be stretched. Leave a small stock loop at the device and the battery. This compensates for the boat's jerks when hitting a wave. The wires should be fastened along the side or under the can using plastic clamps or special clips. An open cable is a risk of catching it with a hook or a knife.
⚠️ Warning: Never bend the sensor cable at a sharp angle or clamped with heavy objects. Inside the wire are thin veins that break easily, resulting in signal loss or noise on the screen.
The wires' joints (if you're increasing the length) should be carefully soldered and insulated with adhesive shrinkage. The usual water insulation will quickly unstick. Use plumbing silicone to seal the cable's entry points into the sensor case. Waterproofing Connections are the key to a long life of electronics.
If you're using an external sensor on the bracket, make sure that when you're moving the boat, it's submerged deep enough so it doesn't capture air. The air bubbles under the sensor create dead zones on the screen. Sometimes you have to experiment with depth of immersion to find the middle ground between the purity of the signal and the safety of the sensor.
Use a Cambrian or a corrugated tube to protect the cable along the side, not only will it keep the wire from rubbing, but it will also make the boat tidy and also make it easy to wipe the board from water and dirt.
Protection against theft and storage
The sonar is expensive and desirable for theft, so safety is a big concern, especially if the boat is left on the water or stored in a shared garage. Simply unscrewing the device from the bracket takes seconds, so additional protection is needed. Security system It can be both simple and complex, depending on your risks.
The easiest way is to use quick-flying areas with secret screws or bolts with a non-standard head (for example, a Torx star with a hole or a triangle), and it is difficult to find such a bat in a regular store, and the thief will have to tinker, which will attract attention. A more reliable option is a cable lock, which is worn through a regular mount and fixed on a stationary part of the boat.
| Protection method | Complexity of implementation | Efficiency | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hiding in a Runduk | Low. | Medium | 0 rub. |
| Secret bolts | Low. | High. | Low. |
| The cable-lock | Medium | High. | Medium |
| Removable bracket | High. | Maximum | High. |
When stored in winter or off-season, it is best to remove the device completely and store it in a warm, dry place. Lithium-ion batteries, which are often used in modern sonars, also do not like extreme temperatures. Seasonal storage requires the battery to be removed and contacts checked for oxidation.
If you use a removable bracket that is only installed for fishing, it solves two problems: protection against theft and the safety of free space in the boat, but it requires perfectly calibrated installation of the response parts, so that every time you spend time setting up.
Testing and setting up the system
Once all the elements are installed, you can't go straight to deep water, you need to test the system on the shore or in shallow water at the dock, turn on the sonar and check if it holds a charge stable, if the contacts warm up and if the signal disappears when the cable moves.
Put the sensor in water and evaluate the image. If you see a lot of noise or interruption, check the reliability of the connections and the position of the sensor, you may need additional balancing or shielding of the wires if the cable from the motor passes nearby. Sensitivity adjustment It is also important: at shallow depths it must be lower to see details, at large depths it must be higher.
The final shallow water testing is a must-have stage that will save you from wasting time and fish on the main fishing due to technical malfunctions.
And you can look at the behavior of the boat with the equipment installed. Is the battery outweighing the stern? Is the bracket in the way of the control? All these little things become noticeable only in the dynamics. If it's successful, you can safely go for trophies, confident in the reliability of your design.
Check the condition of the mounts regularly during operation. Vibration and moisture do their job, and what was tightened at the beginning of the season may weaken by the middle. Preventive inspection takes 5 minutes, but saves expensive equipment.
Can I use adhesive to fix the mount on the balloon?
You can use adhesives (like polyurethane) to stick the pads to the balloon, but only if you're sure of the type of material (PVC or Haipalon) and you pick up the appropriate adhesive. However, this makes the mounting non-removable. If the adhesive detachs from the water, you risk losing the appliance. The mechanical way (belt or platform) is safer and safer for the boat.
Which battery is better to choose for a PVC echoer boat?
Lithium batteries (LiFePO4) are ideal for inflatable boats because of their light weight and compactness. Lead batteries are heavy and take up a lot of space, which is critical for the limited space of PVC boats. In addition, lithium is not afraid of deep discharge and can be stored in a discharged state for longer.
Do I need to lubricate the sonar attachment contacts?
Yes, the electrical contacts (plus and minus) need to be protected against oxidation. Use a special lubricant for electrocontacts (for example, silicone-based), which pushes water out and prevents corrosion. Conventional solidol or litol is best avoided, as they can harden or wash over time.