Owning an inflatable boat imposes special requirements on fishermen for navigation equipment. Echoers of the Practice series They are deservedly considered one of the most popular among domestic water engines due to their reliability and excellent bottom detailing, even at shallow depths. However, unlike boats with a rigid hull, mounting electronics on board PVC requires a special approach to mounting and sealing.
An improperly installed sensor can give false readings due to air bubbles or be completely lost when encountering a snag. In this article, we will discuss all the stages of installation, choose the optimal place for installation and discuss the nuances that will help you avoid typical errors when equipping your boat.
The quality of fishing depends on how comfortable and safe you feel on the water. Practitioner 6M or Practitioner 7 It will be your main helper in finding fish, but only if it is properly integrated into the design of the boat.
Choosing the optimal location for the sensor installation
The first thing that the angler faces before installation is to find the perfect point on the transom or sides. Sonar sensor It must be in water at all times, but it does not create resistance that could affect the performance of a light inflatable boat, and most often owners choose the transom method of attachment, since it is the most versatile and does not require drilling cylinders.
It's important to consider the flow of water around the sensor as it moves, and if you set the emitter too high, it will capture air, causing noise on the screen and loss of signal, and if you land too low, you'll increase the risk of damage to bottom obstacles.
When installing a PVC boat, try to place the sensor strictly in the center of the transom or with a slight displacement away from the jet from the motor to avoid cavitation bubbles.
There are several key rules for choosing a location:
- 📍 Place the sensor in the area of calm water flow, away from the propeller of the motor.
- 📍 Make sure that the selected place when the boat is moving does not form an air cavern.
- 📍 The location should be accessible for rapid removal or lifting of the sensor when passing shallow water.
Don't ignore the angle of inclination. Practitioner The work surface should be parallel to the bottom in the horizontal position of the boat. On inflatable transverses, the angle can vary depending on the load, so rigid bracket fixation is critical here.
Types of inflatable transom anchorages
The accessories market offers a variety of solutions, but not all are suitable for soft side: Standard rods designed for aluminum can damage the fabric or simply not stay on an inflated surface. transom anchorages For PVC, there are several main types, each of which has its own advantages.
The most common option is a wide-base press plate, which distributes pressure to the balloon, preventing deformation, and often uses brackets that are locked between the balloon and the slingboard, clamped by screws on top and bottom of the board.
⚠️ Warning: Never use sharp-edged or pronged metal strubs designed for hard transom directly on the cylinder, guaranteed to cut the fabric and lose the seal of the boat.
Let’s take a look at the popular types of mounts:
| Type of attachment | Compatibility | Difficulty of installation | Reliability |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pressure plate (on screws) | Tran-book, hard insert | Medium | High. |
| Suction bracket | Smooth side, temporary installation | Low. | Low. |
| Universal clamp (Clamp) | Transcript board of any thickness | Low. | High. |
| In-line sensor (through transom) | Hard inserts only (plywood) | High. | Maximum |
For most anglers, the best choice is a universal clamp or plate attached to a squirrel board, which allows you to quickly remove equipment after fishing and take the boat away in a deflated form without unnecessary dismantling work.
Instructions for installation: step-by-step algorithm
The installation process requires care and care. Start by preparing the surface of the transom board. It should be clean, dry and fat-free if you plan to use additional seals. Echo sounder attachment It must be made so that the vibration of the motor does not shake the structure.
First, assemble the bracket according to the manufacturer's instructions, but don't tighten the locking elements completely. Apply the structure to the transom and visually assess the position of the sensor relative to the water. Make sure that the cable hangs freely into the water and does not rub against the side.
☑️ Checklist before checking holes
Next comes the fixation step. If you use a down plate model, carefully drill holes in the transom board (only in wood or plastic without touching the balloon!). Use a drill with a diameter corresponding to fasteners, usually 4-5 mm. After drilling, be sure to treat the edges of the hole with silicone sealant to prevent moisture from entering the tree.
When tightening your screws, be moderate. Excessive force can push a soft tanning board or deform the balloon. Use larger diameter washers to distribute the load. Put the sensor cable along the side, fixing it with special clips or tape so that it does not interfere when you board the boat.
Securing and protecting electronics
Water and electricity are dangerous combinations, especially in conditions of constant shaking and splashing. Practitioner have IP67 protection, the connection points of the cable to the sensor body and the connection connectors to the unit remain vulnerable areas. Hermetization It is a mandatory step to extend the life of the device.
Pay special attention to the connector connecting the sensor cable to the main unit. Even if it is equipped with a rubber plug, over time it can dry out or be lost in a hurry. It is recommended to additionally wrap the connection area with a parafilm or use a heat shrink tube with a glue layer.
⚠️ Warning: Do not use regular tape or tape to seal the connectors underwater. The glue dissolves over time and moisture penetrates inside, causing contact oxidation and signal loss.
Secrets of long-lasting sealing
For maximum protection, you can use a car silicone sealant. Apply a thin layer on the slot thread before twisting. Once dried, it will create a monolithic rubber-like plug that can be easily removed if repairs are needed, just by cutting it off with a knife.
It's also worth checking the condition of the cable itself. On PVC boats, it often comes into contact with the rough surface of the floor or transom, glue potentially dangerous areas with paint tape or put a spiral braid on the cable to protect against rubbing.
Customization and calibration after installation
After the physical installation, there's a software setup phase, properly installed, but not configured. sonar practitioner It's not going to show you the whole underwater world, and the initial calibration takes about 10 minutes, but it has a significant impact on the image quality.
Put the boat down and turn the device on. Give the sensor a few minutes to warm up and stabilize. Go to the settings menu and select the type of sensor you have installed if your model needs it. For most modern versions, it happens automatically.
The main parameters that require attention are:
- 🌊 SensitivitySet a value of about 70-80% to see small fish, but cut off bottom noise.
- 📉 ScopeTo search for fish, zooming (automatic or manual) is more effective.
- 🔇 Noise suppressionTurn on the filter if there are many chaotic dots on the screen, but do not overdo it so as not to lose the weak signal.
Do a test swim at different speeds. If you add gas, the image starts to float or disappear, check the angle of the sensor, maybe it captures air bubbles, lower or lift the mount slightly until the picture is stable.
The main mistake when setting the setting is to set maximum sensitivity, which leads to noisy screens. Start with the average values and raise them only when necessary.
Typical problems and ways to solve them
Even experienced anglers have problems, and most often, problems are not related to electronics, but to installation errors or external factors, and understanding the nature of the malfunction will help to quickly get the device back into operation.
If the sonar is showing depth but not seeing the fish, it's probably because of the sensitivity settings or the speed of the boat, because at high speeds, the sensor may not be able to scan the water column, and because of the overgrown surface of the sensor with algae or mucus.
Let’s look at the table of frequent malfunctions:
Battery discharge or contact oxidation
| A symptom. | Possible cause | Decision |
|---|---|---|
| No image of the bottom. | Sensor out of water or contaminated | Clear the sensor, check the dive |
| Floating depth | Cavitation (air bubbles) | Lower the sensor deeper, slow down. |
| Lots of noise points | High sensitivity | Reduce the sensitivity parameter in the menu |
| The device is off. | Charge the battery, clean the connectors |
If you notice that the depth readings change dramatically for no apparent reason, check the reliability of the cable attachment. Poor contact at the point of entry of the cable into the sensor is a common problem after seasons of active use.
Seasonal storage and conservation
The end of the season is not just cleaning the gear, but also the correct preservation of equipment. Echolota Practitioner They are sensitive to storage conditions, especially their batteries and displays, and if left in the cold or in direct sunlight, the device can fail.
Before long storage, be sure to remove the battery from the compartment. Even if the device is turned off, leakage currents are possible that will completely drain and spoil the battery over the winter.
⚠️ Warning: It is strictly forbidden to store the sonar and especially the battery at negative temperatures. Lithium-ion batteries lose capacity, and LCD screens can leak or crack in the cold.
Remove the device in a dry place at room temperature. Do not wind the sensor cable too tightly so as not to damage the inner structure of the veins. It is best to leave it in a straightened state or roll it into a large diameter ring.
How to Resuscitate the Sensor After Winter?
If the sensor is unstable after wintering, try placing it in a bucket of warm (not hot!) water for 30 minutes, which will help restore the elasticity of the materials and remove the microcondensate inside the case.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can I attach the practising echoer to aboard an inflatable boat if there is no transom board?
Yes, you can use special suction cups or brackets that are attached directly to the balloon, but this is less reliable and can be shifted, and it's better to make a small removable plywood suction board that will be attached to the cylinder with slings.
Why does the sonar show "arcs" instead of fish?
The arcs on the screen are the fish display when the boat is floating over it. If there is no arc, but there are just dots, maybe the fish is standing still or the boat is moving too slowly/fast. Also check the screen refresh rate setting.
How often should the grease in the battery compartment be changed?
Lubrication contacts (usually silicone) is recommended to update once a season or every time you notice oxidation. Before winter storage, lubricate the contacts abundantly to prevent corrosion.
Does the thickness of the PVC boat's bottom affect sonar readings?
No, the sensor is always outside in the water. The thickness of the bottom of the boat is irrelevant unless you use a treadmill, which is not recommended for PVC boats. For sensors attached to a transom, all that matters is the purity of the water and the absence of bubbles.
Which battery is better to choose for the practising echoer?
The best choice is a gel (GEL) or AGM battery with a capacity of 7 Ah. They are safe, maintenance-free and well-charged. Lithium-iron-phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries are also great, but require special protection from overcharging.