Decision to acquire duraluminium Soviet or early post-Soviet assembly often becomes a turning point for the novice boating. Progress It has earned a reputation for being indestructible, capable of withstanding the harsh operation of domestic waters, but buying an age boat is always a lottery, where the gain is a reliable boat, and the loss is expensive and difficult to perform repairs of the hull.
The used boat market is full of offers, but finding a really decent one is getting harder every year. Many owners, in order to save money, buy "horses in apples", which are actually grates with digested seams. In this article, we will discuss in detail what nuances to pay attention to to. Buying a boat Progress B/U It didnβt turn into a financial disaster, and letβs look at the real-world specifications of the various modifications.
You'll be confronted with many myths about the perpetual dural and the harsh reality of corrosion, and we've created a structured review that will help you weed out a frank marriage and choose an option that will last for years to come, and remember that a proper diagnosis before you buy will save you nerves and money in the future.
Why Progress: Analysis of the Relevance of Purchase
In an era of PVC rampage and inexpensive Chinese plastic, the question of buying an old metal seems strange to many. duraluminium boats There's an undeniable advantage to this, which is that it's maintainable and it's able to hold the impact where the soft side just pops. ProgressYou get a design that can be cooked, riveted and repaired in any garage with a minimum set of tools.
The cost of entering this class of boats is relatively low, especially when compared to new aluminum counterparts, but here lies the main catch: the cheapness of buying is often offset by the cost of getting the boat in order. If you're looking for a "buy and go" option, the old Progress is not for you, it needs an approach. restorer.
And the seaworthiness of these vessels is particularly noteworthy, because the sharp nose contours allow you to feel confident in the wave, which is critical for large reservoirs. Progress It is able to plane even at moderate engine power, providing a comfortable speed of movement.
And the liquidity is a good, well-kept copy of the series. Progress-2 or Progress-4 It's always going to find a buyer, because the fan base is huge, and that makes buying a boat like this an investment that, unlike money in a bank, also brings the excitement of fishing.
Model review: from Progress-2 to Progress-4
The line of these boats has been produced for decades in different factories, which has given rise to many modifications. Progress-2 It's a classic "four" (capacity 4 people) that has become the standard for family fishing trips, and the hulls have sharp-kneeded contours, which ensure good ride, but requires careful attention to kile-ability when going in shallow water.
The rarest animal is Progress-1It's a small, smaller, more relaxed water, and if you see an announcement for a Progress 1 sale, check the documents and labels carefully, because it's often a name for a redesigned or homemade design.
Version. Progress-4 It's more modern and comfortable, it's got bigger cockpit sizes, it's got a different transect shape, it's got better ergonomics, and it's got to be about the number of passengers and the power of the engine. two-stroke power of 15-20 hp "four" can be heavy to get on plane with full load.
Secret of the year of release
The year of release is often stamped on the transom or forehead in the form of numbers, for example, 85, 90, 92. Note that boats of the late 80s often have thicker metal, but worse welding quality than models of the early 90s.
It is worth mentioning the existence of modifications to bulgey The presence of boules (welded on the sides of cylinders) significantly increases stability, but complicates the process of welding repairs in the event of damage to the side. When buying, be sure to check the quality of welding of these elements, since it is at the junction with the main body that corrosion occurs most often.
Critical Points: Where to Look for Corrosion and Cracks
The biggest enemy of any old duraluminium boat is intercrystallineIt's not always visible to the eye, but it can turn a strong metal into dust. The first inspection is to start at the bottom of the body, paying attention to the color of the metal. If you see white flakes of oxide or bloating paint, it's an alarm bell.
Pay special attention to the area of the zygomatic joints and the connection of the bottom to the sides. This is where the maximum stresses are concentrated during the course of the wave. Cracks often come from rivets or welds. Swipe your hand along the seams: any irregularities, "steps" or traces of fresh sealant can hide serious problems.
- π Visually inspect the transom: it should not have a backlash or cracks around the motor mounts.
- π Check the inside of the frames: often rot starts from the inside where the water is.
- π Inspect the paiola (floor): rotten floor is not only discomfort, but also the risk of falling through the foot.
If the boat was painted in the same color, for example, light gray, the defects may be hidden. Try to gently tap a knuckle of a finger or a wooden screwdriver handle on suspicious places. Deaf, "cotton" instead of a ringing sound indicates the stratification of metal or the presence of a thick layer of putty that hides the hole.
Checking the geometry and quality of welded seams
When buying a used boat, you should be prepared for the fact that it could be in the hands of the culibins. Previous owners could try to brew cracks themselves, often breaking the technology. duraluminium It requires special electrodes or argon welding, and a conventional welding machine can only make things worse by burning the metal.
Pay attention to the color of the seams. If you see patches of dark, hot metal or seams made with different techniques (somewhere neat, somewhere "melted" in piles), this is an occasion for a deep diagnosis. Progress Usually performed well enough, but time and hits on the stones could make their own adjustments.
The geometry of the hull is the second important aspect: the boat should not have any visible skews. Stand at the stern and look along the side at the cheekbones line. It should be smooth, without fractures. The fracture may indicate that the boat hit the bottom hard at speed, which could lead to a violation. spatial rigidity The whole frame.
βοΈ Checking welds
If you find that the transom is cut or digested to a more powerful engine than the factory thought, that's a risk. The transmuner amplification is often done by handicrafting corners or strips of metal, which adds extra weight to the stern and changes the differentiation. It's better to find a boat with a native, unaffected transmuner, even if you have to limit yourself to a less powerful motor.
Table of comparison of specifications of popular modifications
To make it easier for you to navigate the sea of suggestions, we have prepared a summary table of the main technical parameters, which will help you understand what is being offered to you and whether the stated model corresponds to reality.
| Parameter | Progress-2 | Progress 2M | Progress-4 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Length, m | 4.75 | 4.75 | 4.75 |
| Width, m. | 1.60 | 1.62 | 1.66 |
| Weight with equipment, kg | ~230 | ~240 | ~255 |
| Load capacity, kg | 400 | 400 | 450 |
| River power, engine power, hp | 15-20 | 20-25 | 25-30 |
As you can see from the table, the difference in size between the models is minimal, but the weight and the load capacity may differ. Progress-4 It requires a more powerful motor for steady glides, and if you're planning on using a boat for trolling or quiet fishing, weight isn't as critical, but it's an important parameter for dynamic skating.
Note that the weight in the table is listed with the factory equipment. The actual weight of the naked hull may be less, but if the boat has been overgrown with algae, fouling and layers of paint for years, its mass can significantly exceed the data-sheet figures. fuel and acceleration.
Financial aspect: is sheepskin worth making?
The price of used Progress varies widely, from the symbolic sums for "problem" items to the very tangible sums for restored candy. The budget for the purchase should include not only the cost of the boat itself, but also the funds for its maintenance. Replacing rotten sheets, digesting seams, painting - all this costs money.
If you find a low-cost option, consider yourself lucky, but most of the time (low price) hides the need for a full bulkhead, in which case it might make sense to consider buying a new boat made of aluminum or magnesium-aluminum alloy, which are devoid of many childhood diseases of the old Soviet models.
β οΈ Warning: Never buy a boat without first "trying" on the water. Even if the seller swears that "does not flow", only filling with water or going out into a body of water will show the real condition. The leak can be hidden and manifest only under load.
Also consider transportation costs. Duraluminum boat It's heavy, and it requires a powerful trailer and a good traction car, and the fuel consumption of a 300 kg trailer and boat (plus engine and equipment) will increase dramatically, a constant expense item that is often overlooked when buying.
Buying Progress is justified if you are self-repairing and have access to argon welding. If you are looking for a buy-and-forget option, look towards new PVC or plastic boats.
The results: who will fit the old progress
In summary, it can be said that Progress It's a boat for enthusiasts, a boat for people who love technology, who can hold welding and are not afraid to get dirty, a boat for people who value the reliability of metal and are willing to take time to care for it, and for a quiet night fishing, when stability and capacity are important, these boats are perfect.
If you're looking for a lightweight fast-race boat that you can throw in the trunk and forget until the next fishing, this is not the option for you. Progress It takes constant attention and effort to prepare for the season, but if you find a good one, it will be a loyal friend for years to come.
The used boat market is alive, and good options are going fast. Don't be afraid to haggle over defects, but don't go too far. The fair price for fair fortune is the key to a successful deal. A good buy and seven feet under the keel!
Can progress be cooked with a conventional electrode?
Duraluminum (D16, AMG) requires welding in argon with special filler rods, welding with a conventional electrode or semi-automatic without argon will cause metal burnout, pore formation and rapid destruction of the seam from corrosion.
What is the maximum permissible motor for Progress 2?
The plant recommends engines up to 20-22 hp Installation of a more powerful motor (30+ hp) is possible only after a serious strengthening of the transom and reworking of the structure, which is often economically impractical and can be dangerous due to reduced stability.
How do you deal with the leaks on rivets?
The most reliable way is to replace riveted joints with welded ones (argon), the temporary solution is to use special sealants for boats (polyurethane ones) and replace rivets with larger ones or install additional ones, but these are only half measures.