Being on the water requires not only the availability of a boat and motor, but also to ensure the proper level of safety for the crew. Leer on the boat. It's a simple but critically important fence system that prevents people from falling overboard while pitching or abruptly maneuvering, and many inflatable boat owners neglect this element when they rely on it, but when they're excited or fishing, they're at a multiplier risk of losing balance.
The structural system consists of vertical pillars and a strung between them cable or tape forming a perimeter of protection. leur It doesn't interfere with the cockpit, but it creates a strong physical and psychological barrier, and unlike hard metal handrails, soft railings don't hurt when impacted and can be easily dismantled when needed.
Installing this fence is not just a whim, it's a smart precaution, especially if you're planning to go out with your kids or in windy weather. With modern materials, you can create a structure that lasts for years without losing its properties under the influence of ultraviolet and salt water. Let's go into detail about what the system is made of and how to properly assemble it.
Construction of the fence and basic elements
The classic liner fence design is based on three main components: support struts, tension element and hull attachment system. The struts, or masts, are usually made of stainless steel or anodic-coated aluminum, as they must withstand significant loads on the kink. The height of the racks varies depending on the type of boat, but the standard is the range from 40 to 60 cm above the level of the inflated cylinder.
The tension element is a special cable in a plastic braid or a synthetic sling of increased strength. cable It is preferable for open water, since it sails less and does not absorb water, while sling It's more handy if you have to hold on to it, and it's important that the material is not afraid of corrosion and has a high tensile strength that is well above the weight of a human being.
⚠️ Attention: The use of rusting wire or regular linen rope is unacceptable, and saltwater and sun exposure will cause these materials to lose strength in one season, with tragic consequences in an emergency.Fixing units are a weak point of any design, if they are made in a hut. Inflatable boats, most often used sleeves glued into a balloon, or special brackets covering the side, the reliability of the connection depends on the area of contact and the quality of the glue used in the installation. The optimal load on the gap for a high-quality liner cable should be at least 200-300 kg to withstand the jerk of a falling person.
When choosing a cable, pay attention to the presence of UV protection in the braid, as the open sun quickly destroys ordinary nylon or polypropylene.
Selection of materials: cable, slings and fittings
The durability of the entire system depends on the quality of the materials used, most often the basis of the AISI 316 stainless steel cable, with a diameter of 3-4 mm, which has maximum corrosion resistance in the marine environment, around the metal core is applied a braid of polyester or vinyl, which protects the hands from cuts and the cable itself from mechanical damage.
Alternative to metal are synthetic ropes from Dyneema or SpectraThese materials have a strength comparable to steel, but they are lighter and do not corrosion at all, but they have a disadvantage: they are very slippery, and the knots on them are less stable, so you need special clamps or couches to fix.
The fittings must be fitted with a safety margin, and the following are used to tension and fix the cable:
- 🔹 Talrep – screw mechanisms for precise adjustment of the tension of the cable.
- 🔹 Claws or ducks are elements for fast mooring of the cable without the use of knots.
- 🔹 Blocks – allow you to change the direction of tension or create a polypast system.
- 🔹 Carbines made of stainless steel - for quick removal of leer if necessary.
When assembling the system, it is important to avoid using elements made of ferrous metal or zinc alloys (silumin), as they quickly oxidize. Even high-quality painting will not save them from galvanic corrosion in salt water. stainless-steelChange the rusty parts every year.
Arrangements for attachment of racks to the inflatable cylinder
Installation of vertical supports on an inflatable boat is a process that requires precision and adherence to technology. There are several basic attachment schemes, each of which has its own advantages, the most common option is the installation of racks on the hinges or special areas glued into the cylinder by the manufacturer.
If there are no seats, you can use them. bracket-coveringThey're stainless tube arcs that are put on board and fixed from the bottom with straps or rigid clamps, and the good thing about this is that it doesn't require any disruption to the integrity of the balloon, but it's less reliable under heavy impact loads than sticker.
For those who are ready for capital tuning, the ideal option is sticker quinta And then you put metal glasses on those surfaces, and you put removable racks in them, and you can remove the leer when you keep the boat in your bag, which saves space.
☑️ Checking before installation of racks
Done: 0 / 5It is important to calculate the number of points of support correctly. For a boat 3-4 meters long, four posts are usually enough: two in the bow and two in the stern or on the sides in the middle. Too many racks will weigh the structure and create unnecessary sailing points, and too small will not provide the necessary tension of the cable.
Instructions for installing leer yourself
Installation of a liner fence is a task that is easily accessible at home with a minimum set of tools. Before starting work, you need to prepare the surface: the balloon must be cleanly washed and defatted. If you use a scheme with the pads pasting, make sure that the boat is fully pumped to working pressure to avoid deformation of the attachment sites after descent.
The process of mounting is as follows: first, the mounting points are marked; then, if the structure provides for this, the mounting response parts are glued; after the glue has been completely dryed (usually 24-48 hours), vertical struts are installed; the final step is the pulling of the cable.
The tension of the cable should be uniform. You can't pull the system to the state of the string, because when the boat rolls or the wave hits, the load on the anchoring points will increase multiples. The cable should sag minimally, but have a small margin of elasticity.
Work phase The necessary tool Implementation time Important nuances Marking and preparation Marker, alcohol, rags. 30 minutes Accuracy of markup affects symmetry Installation of anchorages Glue, brush, roller 2 hours + drying Temperature not lower than +15°C Installation of racks Hexagon, keys. 30 minutes Use the thread locker Tie-tie Flatheads, cutters. 1 hour Leave a reserve for the rope shrinkage ⚠️ Attention: Don't do the gluing work in cold or high humidity, and PVC glue doesn't polymerize properly, and the attachment can come off at the wrong time.The secret of reliable gluing
For maximum strength, use a two-component polyurethane adhesive. The first layer is applied thinly and dried until the stick is applied, the second - until a mild sticky state, after which the parts are joined with a strong press.
Operation and maintenance of the leer system
The fence is constantly under the influence of aggressive factors: salt water, solar ultraviolet, temperature changes and mechanical stress. Regular inspection and maintenance will help to avoid sudden breakage. After each step out to sea, especially in salt water, it is recommended to rinse the metal elements with fresh water to wash away the salt.
Once a season, you need to check the condition of the cable, it should not be shaggy, it should be rubbed or corrosion inside the braid, and pay special attention to the places where the rope enters the clamps and couches, which is where microcracks most often occur. rope It starts to get squishy, it is better to replace it preventively.
Lubrication of the moving parts of talreps and carbines is also mandatory. Use silicone lubricant or special sprays for marine equipment that are not washed away with water and do not destroy plastic elements. Regularly check the tightening of the bolts on the mounts of the racks, as motor vibration and excitement can gradually weaken the connections.
You can keep a boat with a liner installed, but it's better to dismantle the removable racks if the design allows, which will reduce the load on the cylinders when blowing and folding the boat into the transport bag. If the racks are not removable, make sure that when packing they do not overflex and press on the cylinder fabric with sharp edges.
Regular washing with fresh water and lubrication of mobile nodes prolong the service life of the leer system by 2-3 times.
Security issues and typical errors
The main purpose of installing a lear is safety, but improper installation can lead to the opposite effect. One common mistake is to install too high a fence. If the top cable is above the level of the adult chest, it becomes dangerous: if you roll sharply, you can bend over it and fall head over, suffering a spinal injury.
The optimum height of the lower cable (storm leer) is 15-20 cm from the floor of the cockpit to prevent slipping of the legs. The upper cable should be located at the level of the middle of the thigh or just above the waist, this configuration allows you to move freely on the boat, lean on the side, but reliably keeps the person inside the perimeter.
It's also dangerous to use stretchable materials. Ordinary rubber or a very stretchy synthetic will create a trampoline effect. If you fall a person, the leer will stretch, let him overboard, and then pull sharply, which can lead to bruises or even fractures. The material must be practically inextensible.
⚠️ Attention: Never use a liner fence as a mounting point to moor to a dock or tow another boat. The load on mooring can exceed the strength of the racks, pulling them out of the cylinder.Another mistake is saving on the number of mounting points, two racks on the sides is the absolute minimum, but for full safety, you'd better use 4 or 6 mounts, which will distribute the load and make the perimeter more rigid and predictable.
Additional opportunities for modernization
Once you have a basic leer system, you can go further and integrate additional useful elements into it, such as a rabies net or a special storm net, which protects against small objects (phones, keys) and creates an additional barrier for children.
You can attach rod holders to the racks, which makes the leer a functional element for fishing, and it's also popular to install LED tape along the bottom cable or on the racks themselves, which is not only beautiful, but also makes the boat more visible at night for other vessels.
Some owners will arrange awning or canopy mounting points on the leers, in which case the racks must be reinforced, and their layout must take into account the awning frame, and the versatility of the design allows you to adapt the boat for any task, from family holidays to serious trolling.
lifehack for fishermen
Use plastic rings-delimiters on the rope leer to hang the tackle and not confuse them with each other during active fishing.
Conclusion
The boat yard is a tuning element that pays off with a sense of confidence on the water. The simplicity of the design should not be misleading: it is a serious engineering solution that requires quality materials and a competent approach to installation. A properly mounted fencing becomes an integral part of the boat, which you forget about in calm weather, but appreciate in a storm.
You don't have to skimp on crew safety, you have to choose proven materials, you have to follow the installation techniques, and you have to maintain the system regularly, so your boat will be more than just a means of transportation, it will be a safe and comfortable home on the water, ready for any adventure.
Can I use a leer on an inflatable boat for mooring?
No, absolutely not. The railing is not designed for such loads. For mooring, use only regular dips or hinges, specially reinforced for this purpose. Attempting to tie the boat to the leer can lead to the mounts breaking out and damage to the balloon.
What is the best cable diameter for a 3.5 meter long boat?
For boats of this size, the optimal cable with a diameter of 3-4 mm. a smaller diameter can cut hands and will not provide proper visibility, and a larger (5-6 mm) will be excessively heavy, rigid and create sailing.
Do I need to take off the leer in winter when storing a boat?
If the racks are removable, it is best to remove them, clean them and store them in a dry place to avoid contact with aggressive environment and mechanical damage. If the system is not removable, make sure that the boat is kept straightened and there is no excess pressure on the cables.
How to replace a special glue for sticking fives?
Normal household adhesives (moment, superglue) do not hold the pressure on PVC. Use only specialized two-component polyurethane adhesives designed for repairing inflatable boats (e.g. Texacol, Klejme, 4508).
How often should I change the sleeve cable?
When used in salt water and under the sun, the cable lasts 3-5 years, but visually check its condition every season, and if rusty spots, or if it has a hairy hair or a loss of elasticity, it signals immediate replacement.