The search for a reliable outboard motor for a boat often leads a domestic boating to a popular bulletin board, where chaos reigns from the proposals. outboard motor Winds on Avito It's one of the most frequent requests, because these units have served fishermen and hunters across the country for decades, but the used appliance market is full of not only honest offers from private buyers, but also the outright junk that vendors try to pass off as a "workhorse."
Buying an old Soviet or Russian engine is always a lottery, where the winning is a good unit, and the losing is a ton of metal that requires major repairs. In this article, we will discuss how to weed out unnecessary, which models should pay attention to and how to properly conduct trades with sellers so as not to overpay for air. Wind The technique is simple, but requires a competent approach during the inspection.
Before we get to specific models, itβs worth understanding the philosophy behind buying on the ad platform: thereβs no warranty, no maintenance, and often no water-based experience. Your task. The success of a transaction depends on your attention to details that an experienced salesperson may try to hide.
Why the wind is still popular in the secondary market
Despite the abundance of Chinese analogues and modern Japanese engines, interest in the Soviet classics is not fading. maintainabilitySo, these motors are so simple and unified that you can actually fix them in a garage with a minimum set of tools. Winds They are still produced and cost pennies compared to imported analogues.
The second important factor is affordability: finding a new engine is difficult and expensive, and the second option allows you to equip a PVC boat or metal "Kazanka" with a minimal budget. Many models released in the 80s and 90s, with proper care, can work for decades. Cast iron shells And the simple ignition system makes them indestructible in the hands of a knowledgeable person.
But popularity also creates problems. There are often dealers on Avito who assemble engines from a few non-working units, they can look beautiful on the outside, but they have critical wear inside. So when you search for the phrase "I'll buy a Windy outboard motor," it's important to filter ads from photos and descriptions, weeding out those who are not ready to show details.
- π§ The simplicity of the design allows you to carry out repairs yourself without complex diagnostics.
- π° Low cost of spare parts and their availability in most stores.
- β Possibility of installation on a wide range of boats, from inflatable to metal.
And also, liquidity, if you buy a popular model in good condition, you can easily sell it later, with little or no loss in value, given inflation. Wind It is a kind of investment, not a monetary one, but in the form of mobility on the water.
Review of popular models: what to look for in ads
There are many modifications on the secondary market, but not all of them are equally interesting to the buyer. Wind 8It's a middle ground for light boats that pulls three people with a load, but it's compact enough to find it on Avito, but it's also very competitive for good ones.
For heavier boats look for Wind 12.It's more powerful, but it's also heavier, which can be critical for inflatable watercraft. This model often has problems with lower unit because of the greater torque, so you have to pay special attention to vibrations and backlashes when you look. Wind-M Or versions with an electric starter, but finding them can take a long time.
β οΈ Note: Models with letters "E" (electric starter) or "M" (upgraded) may have unique parts that are harder to find in the remote province.
It is worth mentioning separately about Wind-4It's a great option for single-seat inflatable boats, where low weight is important. They're less than eights, because many fishermen prefer to have a power reserve. If you find a live quartet for an adequate price, that's luck.
When you look, look at the year you're in. The 70s and 80s are often made of better alloys, but they're a lot more wear-and-tear. The 90s and early 2000s can be built with lesser materials, but they can have less mileage. The most valuable are the engines of the late 80s of release in a complete set with a remote tank.
Remote diagnosis: analysis of ads and photos
Before you call a salesman, carefully study the photos. A good owner will always post photos of the engine from all sides, including close-ups of lower unit, the area of the lower unit puck and the carburetor. If the photo shows the engine is in a bucket of water or on the dirty floor of the garage in a pile of junk, this is a bad sign. Clean engine. The photo often (but not always) shows that he was being followed.
Pay attention to the condition of the lower unit. Deep scratches, dents, or weld marks are a cause for concern. This may indicate impacts on rocks or sand braids, which may have caused the shafts to shift. Also look for traces of oil around the lower unit washer, which is a sign of wear and tear of the glands, which requires replacement.
In the ad description, look for key phrases: "starts from the polka" says nothing about the condition of the piston group. Much more important, if the seller says: "compression is normal", "spark is powerful", "the pump has changed." If the text says: "compression is normal", "the pump has changed". Wind 8 ESSo the motor has an electric starter, which is rare and a plus, and the absence of a photo of a spark plug or carburetor in disassembled form is a reason to ask questions.
Compare prices. If the average market has a price of 15,000 to 20,000 rubles for a working engine and you get offered 5,000 as new, that's a fraud or a hidden defect. There are no miracles. The cheapest are disassembly engines or parts, which may also be an option if you're looking for specific components to repair your own.
Inspection of the engine on the spot: checklist of the buyer
When you meet a salesman, feel free to do a thorough check. The appearance can be deceptive: the engine can be washed and painted before selling, covering up the traces of operation, and your task is to look inside as much as possible without completely disassembling. Visual examination It starts with lower unit.
βοΈ Checklist for engine inspection
First, check the backlash of the lower unit puck. Take it with your hands and swing it in different directions. There should be no backlash, only barely noticeable movement is allowed. If the puck dangles, the bearings or the lower unit shafts are worn out, which is expensive to repair. Also check the lower unit for cracks, especially in the places of attachment to the lower unit puck.
Then we go to the ignition system. Turn out the candle. If it's black and wet, it's too rich or it's got ignition problems. If the white is poor, which is dangerously overheating. The color should be brick-brown. Check the spark by putting the candle to the mass and turping the starter. The spark should be greasy and blue, skipping between the electrodes, not punching on the body.
β οΈ Warning: Never test a spark by holding a candle or putting it on an engine without an insulator β a magdino shock can be very sensitive and unpleasant.
The critical step is to test the compression, and it's hard to tell by ear, but experienced motorists can estimate the starter force. If the motor spins too easily, as if there's no compression, the piston group is worn out or the rings are buried. Ideally, you need to have a compressometer with a candle-carving adapter, but this is rare on Avito. You can try to plug the candle hole with your finger and pull the starter, you should knock out the finger with force.
Technical nuances: what to look at first
Cooling system - the Achilles heel of old WindsWhen starting the engine (only briefly, 5-10 seconds) from the control hole should confidently beat the jet of water. If water drips or bubbles, the pump does not work or water channels are clogged. Operation without cooling will lead to jamming of the piston in minutes.
The K-33 or K-36 carburetor is the heart of the engine, and it has to be clean, without any rust inside the float chamber. If the seller says "the carburetor was soaping," ask them to show you. Often, "cleaning" means simply purging, which doesn't solve the problem of worn-out chicks or needles. Tightness The carburetor is critical for stable operation.
The table below will help you quickly navigate the main parameters of popular models to understand what exactly you are buying.
| Model | Power (hp) | Weight (kg) | Type of ignition | Feature |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wind-4 | 4 | 9.5 | Magdino. | The easiest, for small boats |
| Wind 8 | 8 | 13.5 | Magdino/BEZ | The most massive, reliable |
| Wind 8E | 8 | 14.0 | BAZ | There's an electric starter. |
| Wind 12. | 12 | 16.0 | BAZ | Stronger lower unit, more powerful. |
| Wind-M | 8/12 | 13.8 | Electronically | Upgraded version |
Note the exhaust system. In older engines, it's often implemented through exhaust windows in the cylinder and a silencer in the lower unit. If the engine smokes like a steam locomotive and eats oil in liters, the rings are worn out. Let's say a little smoke at start-up, but at operating speeds the exhaust must be transparent or slightly gray.
The secret to a quiet move
There's a myth that wind turbines are very noisy, and actually, the noise level is very much affected by the exhaust system and the carburetor setting, and a properly tuned motor with a full silencer works quite comfortably without re-crying the conversation.
Typical problems and questions to the seller
To avoid buying a cat in a bag, ask the seller the right questions. Don't ask "is the engine working?", this question will always be answered "yes." Ask more specifically: "When did the pump change?", "Did Dadwood beat?", "What fuel consumption?" The answers "I don't know," "I haven't measured" or "I kind of hit" are red flags.
A common problem is the flow of gasoline through the carburetor, which is treated by replacing needles and gaskets, but it takes time and skill. If the salesman says, "gasoline drips, but it works," keep in mind that you will immediately have to deal with the fuel system. Also ask about the condition of lower unit bearings - a knock in lower unit is heard even on singles, if you put your hand to the tiller.
Ask the salesman to start the engine in front of you, and if he refuses, saying, "No gasoline" or "No neighbors are fighting," turn around and walk away. The salesman will start the engine even if he has to bring a canister.
Another important thing is the equipment. Often on Avito, the engine is sold without a gas tank, hose or lower unit washer. The absence of a washer is minus 10-15% of the cost, because it is difficult to find the original. The lack of a tank is less of a problem, but it also requires costs. fuel-hose And its condition, because the old hoses sank and cracked.
β οΈ Warning: If the motor is sold without a lower unit washer, be sure to check the lower unit landing site. There should be no production or licking of the slithers, otherwise the new washer will not live long.
Bidding and execution of the transaction on Avito
The price Wind Avito is often listed with a margin for sale. Real value is based on fortune. Don't be afraid to haggle for defects: scratches, no puck, an old gas tank, the need to replace oil oil oils. Argumented bidding works better than just asking you to "dump the price."
When meeting, be sure to run the seller through history check services if possible, or simply assess the adequacy of the person. The individual who used the motor for himself is usually more honest than the dealer. Retailers often twist the motorcycle clock (if there is a counter) and hide real problems using generic phrases.
Make an appointment in the daytime and preferably near a body of water where you can test drive. If you can't, at least let the engine run for 5-10 minutes on the idle, so it warms up. Vibration and sound on the warmed engine will tell you about the state of more than an hour of work on the cold.
The key to a successful purchase is to walk away empty-handed, don't be fooled by the urgency and pressure of the seller, the market is full of engines, and it's better to spend time searching than money repairing.
After buying, immediately replace the fuel hoses and filters, even if the old ones look normal. Old gasoline in the tank is also better to drain. Do full prevention: lubricate all the knots, check the tightening of the bolts. Wind It will be your reliable companion on the water.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Should I buy a windmill without documents?
If you buy a used motor, the seller must hand over the sales contract or his passport to you. Without documents, you will not be able to register the engine, and the penalty for an unregistered engine is significant. You can buy "without documents" only if you are sure that you will not get to the inspectors, or plan to use the motor on water bodies that do not fall under the rules of GIMS (although these are becoming less and less).
What kind of gasoline to pour into the old wind?
Soviet Winds However, since these fuels have disappeared from the market, it is recommended to use AI-92. It is important to observe the ratio of oil to gasoline. For running or very old engines, the mixture is 1:25, for normal operating conditions - 1:33 or 1:50 (depending on the model and recommendations of the oil manufacturer).
Why does the wind stop at high speeds?
Most often, the fuel system is a jammed jet, the wrong level of fuel in the float chamber, or the air pump through the gasket of the carburetor, and the problem can also be the ignition system: it breaks through the coil or the condenser at high speeds when the voltage increases, less often the cause is overheating or compression disruption.
Can I put an electronic ignition on the old Wind?
Yes, there are electronic contactless ignition (EI) kits that can replace the old magdinos, which improves start-up, spark stability, and reduces fuel consumption. The installation requires some technical skills, but for an old motor, it often becomes a second wind.