Transporting a boat in your own trailer is not just a convenience, it's a necessity for any boat owner who values his time and cares about his equipment. But the standard platform of the trailer is often just a flat metal sheet that is completely unsuited for fixing the contours of the hull. laying-piece Specialized supports that ensure uniform weight distribution and reliable keeping of the vessel in transit.
A mismatched or mounted pawn system can lead to serious problems, from cracking the hull of a boat to losing load at high speed. Unlike keel rollers, which are often used for descent, pawns are designed to be statically fixed during long journeys along the highway, they eliminate the displacement of the boat sideways and quench the vibrations that occur when driving on irregularities.
In this article, we will discuss in detail what types of supports are, how to calculate their number and installation scheme specifically for your type of case, you will learn about materials that are not afraid of water and sun, and also get step-by-step instructions for upgrading your trailer. PVC Or the metal boat will come to the water intact.
Why do we need a lot of slacks and how they are better than rollers?
The main function of the pawns is to create a large area of contact between the support and the bottom of the boat. If the keel roller touches the boat only at one narrow point, then a long long distance. lay-out This covers a significant portion of the contours of the side, and is critical to prevent local overloads that can deform thin aluminum or damage fiberglass when shaking.
In addition, the use of soft coating materials avoids scuffing and scratching on gelcoat or paint. Rollers, especially old and worn, often have a hard surface or grains of sand stuck in bearings that act as abrasive. Logs provide soft but elastic support that cushions the jerks when braking and accelerating the car.
Another advantage is the stability of the boat's position, and on a flat platform without sides, the boat can shift in sharp turns if it is not pressed from above. side-spouses create a kind of "trough", in which the boat sits as a flooded, which is especially important for narrow and tall hulls.
- 🛡️ Shell protection: The soft coating prevents mechanical damage and friction.
- ⚖️ Uniform load: Weight is distributed over a larger area, reducing the risk of deformation.
- 🚗 Stability: The transom displacement of the boat on turns and gusts of wind is excluded.
⚠️ Warning: Never use wooden bars wrapped in rags as a permanent replacement for professional lodgings. The wood absorbs moisture, rots and can dramatically lose strength, causing the boat to fall on the go.
Construction and materials: what to choose for your trailer
Modern lodgings are a complex structure consisting of a metal profile, fasteners and a special coating. The base is usually made of galvanized steel or aluminum, which guarantees resistance to corrosion in salt water. However, the key element is the material of the bed itself, which directly contacts the boat.
The most popular material remains carpeting It's a polypropylene-based product. It's inexpensive, it's well-fit and it's very tractable. But it has a lifespan: under the influence of ultraviolet light and constant wetness, the pile can fade and wear out. For harsh operating conditions, there are options with a Teflon coating that provides perfect slipperiness on the descent, but costs more.
The second common option is ergot Rubber beds are more durable, water-free and easier to wash. They are ideal for smooth-bottomed boats, as they scratch smaller stones. The choice between carpet and rubber often depends on the type of bottom covering of your boat and the frequency of use of the trailer.
When choosing a material, focus on the color of the boat: for light cases, it is better to take light beds to avoid painting the bottom in dark colors when heated in the sun.
It's important to pay attention to the rigidity of the base. A too soft padding can be pulled under the weight of a heavy boat, no longer performing its function. Too rigid will not repeat the contours of the hull. The golden mean is a profile with moderate elasticity that flexes slightly under the pressure of the hand, but holds the shape under load.
Calculation of the number and arrangement of supports
The right arrangement is the foundation of safety. The number of lodgings depends on the length and weight of your boat, as well as the design of the trailer frame. Standard practice for boats up to 4 meters long involves the use of one central long lodging under the keel and two side short supports in the bow. For heavier and longer vessels, the number of support points is increased.
Central keel-bed The side supports should be placed symmetrically to prevent rolling, and the distance between the side pads should be such that the boat rests on them with its strongest parts, usually the reinforcement of the frames or stringers.
When designing a circuit, it's important to consider not only static weight, but also dynamic loads. When braking, the boat tends to shift forward, so the front supports are under tremendous pressure. The rear lobes, located closer to the transom, are often made adjustable in height to compensate for the deflection of the frame under load.
| Boat length (m) | Keel lodements (arts. | Side lodgings (arts. | Recommended load per point (kg) |
|---|---|---|---|
| up to 3.5 | 1 (long) | 2 (short) | 150 |
| 3.5 – 4.5 | 1-2 (composite) | 2-4 (medium) | 200 |
| 4.5 – 5.5 | 2 (composite) | 4 (long) | 250 |
| more than 5.5 | 2-3 (composite) | 4-6 (long) | 300+ |
Don't skimp on the number of supports if you're planning long-distance trips on the track. It's better to install an additional support row than risk the integrity of the body. Remember, the trailer frame can slightly deform over time, and the safety margin here will not hurt.
Step-by-step instructions for installing pawns
Installation of the support system begins with careful preparation of the trailer frame. You need to clean all surfaces of rust, old paint and dirt. If you install the lotion on existing brackets, check their geometry. For a new installation, you will need to mark the mounting places, guided by the contours of your boat.
The first step is always to install a central loom, which is attached to the center beam of the trailer with clamps or bolts. It is important to ensure a small angle of inclination towards the water (about 1-2 degrees) to facilitate the boat's slide down. galvanizedIt doesn't rust through the season.
☑️ Installation tools
After keel installation, we move to the side supports, and it's critical to keep the symmetry in place, put the boat on the keel (temporary supports can be used) and try on the side pads, which should fit tightly on the sides, but not forcefully push them to deform the contours, and adjust the height by threaded studs or by rearranging the brackets vertically.
The final step is to test the entire system under load. Once all the elements are installed, gently lower the boat into place. Make sure there are no gaps between the hull and the pads at critical points. If there are gaps, you may need to adjust the angle of inclination or replace the too rigid supports with more elastic ones.
⚠️ Warning: When drilling holes in the trailer frame, be sure to treat metal slices with corrosion-resistant compounds and paint them over. Even a small scratch on the galvanized galvanizing can become a rust source that will destroy the frame in a couple of years.
Nuances for PVC boats and aluminum boats
Owners PVC They often face the dilemma of whether they need hard lossages if the bottom is already soft, and the answer is clear: they do, but with reservations. inflatable tubes are sensitive to point pressure and overheating. So, for PVC, it is optimal to use wide lossages with a soft, fluffy coating that will not rub the material at high speed.
For aluminum boats, the situation is different: the metal is hard but thin. The main danger here is electrochemical corrosion and friction. Aluminum should not contact the steel elements of the padment directly. There should always be a layer of dielectric material (rubber, plastic, dense carpet) between the metal of the frame and the bottom of the boat.
The problem of the galvanic pair
If you put steel lodgings right on the aluminum bottom without insulation, the salt water will begin to undergo electrochemical corrosion. Aluminum, being the more active metal, will begin to break down, giving away the electrons of the steel, which can lead to through holes in the bottom in just one season of active use.
Also, you have to consider the weight of the engine. boat-engine The transom creates a lever that lifts the bow of the boat, in which case the front lobes must be reinforced, and the rear lobes must be adjusted to compensate for this roll, and ignoring this fact will lead to the boat relying only on the nose and transom, sagging in the middle.
The temperature expansion is a special issue. Plastic and metal have different expansion coefficients. In heat, a boat can change its geometry slightly, so the bedspin fastener should not be tightened dead without micro-movement, otherwise the pads can be ripped off.
Maintenance and preparation for winter storage
Logins, like any piece of equipment, require maintenance. After each release to salt water, they must be washed with fresh water. The salt, when dried on the pile or rubber, becomes cryalized and starts to work as an abrasive, and also accelerates the corrosion of the metal base. A simple pressure wash will significantly extend the life of the system.
Before placing the trailer for winter storage, it is recommended to remove the soft pads of the pads, if the design allows, and dry them in a warm room. Wet carpet left in the cold turns into an ice block, which, when used in spring, can damage the coating of the boat.
Regularly checking the tension of the fastener bolts of the pawns is a mandatory procedure before each long trip, and vibration on the track can weaken even well-tightened connections.
Visual inspection for ruptures, abrasion of the pile or cracks in the rubber should be carried out regularly, damaged padding loses its shock-absorbing properties and can cause damage to the hull, replacing one element of the system will cost less than repairing a broken bottom of the boat.
Remember to check the condition of the brackets themselves. Sometimes it's not the soft element itself that breaks, but the metal base, especially in the welding or folding areas. The cracks in the metal can be hidden under the coating layer, so feel the structure with your hands.
Can I make my own sleeves from the materials?
In theory, you can use large-diameter PVC pipes cut along, or wooden bars with rubber upholstery. However, these structures rarely have the necessary durability and safety. Industrial pads pass UV resistance and load tests, which are difficult to replicate in garage conditions.
How often should you change the carpet on the floor?
The life of the carpet depends on the intensity of operation and storage conditions. On average, a quality carpet lasts 3-5 seasons. If the pile begins to fall in tatters or bald spots to metal appear, replacement is required immediately.
Will the sleeves fit from one trailer to another?
Most often, if the profile size is the same, standard square or round pipes are uniform in size, but before buying a used kit, be sure to measure the distance between the mounting holes and the diameter of the pipe of your frame.
Does the boat affect the speed of the boat’s descent into the water?
Yes, they do. Smooth Teflon or rubber beds allow for faster and easier descent, especially on gently sloping banks. The puffy carpet creates more friction resistance, which may require a deeper trailer to enter the water.
Do I need to clean the stains before going down?
The use of special sprays-lubricants (silicone or Teflon) facilitates descent and ascent, and also protects the coating from drying out. However, conventional oil lubricants can not be used, they spoil the material of the lomenment and soil the boat.