Putting the motor on a kayak is a logical step for any hydraulic motorist who wants to expand the horizons of his travels. Simple rowing is certainly romantic, but when the headwind or strong current turns into a grueling struggle. It is electric traction that can turn a light rowing boat into a full-fledged one. tourist-boat with a power reserve that allows you to overcome tens of kilometers without fatigue.
The modern market offers many solutions, from specialized kits to universal transax models. It is important to understand that the kayak has its own design features: low landing, no hard transom and limited payload reserve. kayak It must be not only powerful, but also lightweight, compact and ergonomic, and mistakes in equipment selection can lead to loss of stability or even overturning of the boat.
In this article, we will discuss all the nuances of the upgrade, including the calculation of the necessary traction, the choice of a battery and how to securely fasten. pound-traction It's not equal to maximum speed, and how to distribute weight properly on board, and training will allow you to enjoy the water, rather than to deal with technical problems.
Choosing the type of motor: the specifics of kayaking
The first thing that an enthusiast encounters is the variety of designs. electric motors It's a vertical shaft, because it creates less drag and noise, and it's almost unused because of the weight, the vibration, the difficulty of putting a lower unit in a narrow case, and the electricity is silent, it doesn't require much maintenance, and it allows you to fish even in ICE-free areas.
The key is the way you attach it, and there are two main types: squirrel and hanging The transom models are attached to the stern, which is convenient for handling, but requires a pad or an additional transom pad. The suspension options are often integrated into the kayak design or attached to a special platform in the seat area, which improves weight distribution.
⚠️ Warning: Installing a heavy motor at the stern of a single-seat kayak can critically alter the ambient, leaving the feed underwater, increasing the risk of being overwhelmed by the wave and loss of control.
Also worth paying attention to is the length of the lower unit. For kayaks with low kernel height, standard shafts can be a bit long, which increases the risk of getting caught by bottom obstacles. The optimal length of the screw immersion is 15-20 cm under the keel. Minn Kota Endura or Haswing OsapianThey have a regulated departure, which is a big plus.
Do you want to be kayaked?:Trans (stern)|Nous (in cockpit)|Integrated in fin |Until I decide-->
Calculation of traction and battery capacity
Many beginners mistakenly believe that the more traction, the faster the kayak will swim. Traction (Thrust) For a light kayak with one passenger and gear, the excess thrust will only result in a fast battery discharge and cavitation of the propeller. A 30-40 lbs (pound) motor is sufficient for a standard load of up to 120 kg.
The second critical element of the system is the battery, and the chemistry of the elements is the game. battery-power They don't fit in categorically, they're not designed to give off long-term energy, and they quickly fail at deep discharge. traction-battery AGM, GEL or, ideally, lithium-iron-phosphate (LI)LiFePO4).
The calculation of autonomy is based on the battery capacity (Ah) and the current consumed (A). At maximum speed, the motor can consume 30-40 Amps, while in economy mode - only 5-10 Amps. Lithium batteries weigh 2-3 times less lead analogues at the same capacity that is critical for a small vessel.
Why is LiFePO4 better than lead?
Lead-acid batteries (AGM/GEL) can only be discharged to 50% of their rated capacity without harming their lifespan. Lithium-iron-phosphate batteries (LiFePO4) can discharge up to 80-90%, weigh half as much and last 5-10 times longer (2000+ cycles vs 500 cycles for AGM).
For ease of comparison of different options, we have prepared a summary table of specifications that will help to determine the choice of a bundle of "motor-battery" depending on your tasks.
| Type of battery | Weight (roughly) | Depth of discharge | Duration of service (cycles) | Recommended engine traction |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| AGM (Lead) | 12-14 kg (100 Ah) | 50% | 500-700 | 30-40 lbs |
| GEL (Lead) | 13-15 kg (100 Ah) | 60% | 600-800 | 30-40 lbs |
| LiFePO4 (Lithium) | 5-6 kg (100 Ah) | 90% | 2000+ | 40-55 lbs |
| Li-Ion (18650) | 4-5 kg (50 Ah) | 90% | 800-1000 | 30 lbs |
Methods of fastening: from shrubbery to pro
Putting the motor on a kayak requires an engineering approach, just tying the motor to tape is a bad idea that can end up losing expensive equipment. strubcinIf the kayak design allows you to catch overboard, however, most modern kayaks have rounded sides that require special adapters.
A popular solution is to install a removable transom, which is an aluminum or fiberglass plate that is attached to the kayak stern on belts or bolts, and the motor is already hung on this transmuter. It is important that the platform is rigid, that any vibration will be transmitted to the screw, causing noise and accelerating wear of the gearbox. Perception or HobieThey produce kayaks with ready-made seats for an outboard motor.
☑️ Checking of the attachment reliability
For sit-in kayaks, often the engine is installed in the area of a hatch or a special well, and this is a long bar that goes into the water for the stern. suspended It allows you to keep the contours of the body intact, and in this case, you can either turn the motor itself or you can use a remote humming device.
⚠️ WARNING: When using transom belts, make sure they don't RUB against the sharp edges of the fittings. Water and sand act as an abrasive, weakening the synthetic fabric in a matter of hours of active use.
Setup and first launch on water
The first motor outing is always a stress test for the whole system. pulp And the speed switch on the dry shore (short-term, without dipping the screw in the air so as not to damage the glands), make sure that the battery is securely secured in a sealed compartment or waterproof box, and getting water on the terminals will cause a short circuit and instantaneous stop.
When you go down, you'll notice the angle of the tilt of the lower unit, and if the screw gets too close to the surface, it'll pop up. cavitation It's a boiling of water to create bubbles, which will reduce thrust and create noise, if it's too deep, it will increase resistance, and optimally, when the screw is completely hidden under water, but the lower unit does not create an extra wave.
When you're driving, try not to make any sudden jerks with a tiller. Electric motors have high torque, and a sharp start can lead to a screw breaking into the air or even breaking the plastic gears in the gearbox. Smooth addition of power is the key to a long life of the mechanism.
Use the motor's foot (heel) as anchor in shallow water, and by lowering the lower unit vertically down to the end, you can lock the kayak in place for fishing without using an anchor shaft, which is especially convenient on the current.
Maintenance and care of the electric motor
Fresh water and salt water require different maintenance approaches, and after each trip, especially out to sea, you need to thoroughly wash the engine with fresh water. corrosion-proofingIt can also jam the moving parts, and you can pay special attention to the shaft entrance area in lower unit, where the coils are the first ones to take the hit.
The screw is expendable. Even a single hit on a stone can disrupt balance, causing vibrations and the bearings to break down. Remove the screw regularly and inspect it for chips and cracks. spare-rotor On board - the rule of good tone for long trips.
Battery storage also requires compliance: Lithium batteries should not be kept fully charged or fully discharged; the optimal charge level for long downtime is 60-70%; lead batteries, on the contrary, should be kept fully charged, periodically recharged to avoid sulfation of the plates.
Common errors in installation
One of the most common mistakes is to bend the center, and by placing a heavy motor and battery on the edge of the stern, the user shifts the center of gravity, and the Kayak starts to peck with his nose, or, conversely, up his nose, becoming unstable to the lateral wave, and we need to experiment with the load's position, perhaps by shifting the battery closer to the seat.
The second mistake is the savings on wires: using too thin cable causes a drop in the voltage on the motor, the motor does not give full power, and the wires are very warmed. For currents of 30-40 Amps, the cross-section of the copper wire should be at least 6 mm2 (according to the AWG standard, this is about 10-8 Ga).
⚠️ Warning: Never lift your kayak by the mounted engine or handle of the hummel. Plastic and mounts are not designed to weigh the entire boat with equipment. This is a guaranteed way to break the hummel or tear the mount.
The third mistake is that there's no insurance, and the motor has to be attached to the kayak with an extra flap or chain, and if the mounting is weakened by vibration, the motor will fall into the water, you can't find it at the depth, you can't lose it, you're very hurtful. tether.
The key to successful operation is the balance between the weight of the equipment and the stability of the kayak, and it is better to have a less powerful motor and a larger range than an overloaded, rolling boat with a powerful but fast-setting battery.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can I use the motor on an inflatable kayak?
Yes, but with caution, low-thrust motors (up to 30 lbs) and special inflatable transes that spread the load over a large area of cylinders must be used.
What is the real speed of a kayak with an electric motor?
Real speeds rarely exceed 5-7 km/h. Kayaks have a narrow body and high resistance, so most of the energy is spent on overcoming the wave, not increasing speed.
Do I need to register a kayak with a motor in GIMS?
Vessels weighing less than 200 kg and having an engine power of more than 8 kW (about 10.8 hp) are subject to registration in Russia. Since electric kayak motors usually have a power of up to 0.5 kW (1 hp), they are not subject to registration and rights to them are not required. However, always carry with you the documents confirming the power (technical data sheet).
Is the electric motor afraid of rain?
Modern motors have IP67 or IP68 protection, which allows them to operate in the rain and even submerge briefly. However, the rummel and battery compartment may be less protected. In heavy rain, it is better to close the battery with an additional sealer.