outboard motor Winds: specifications, repair and tuning

Legendary wind-engine For more than half a century, it has been one of the most recognizable symbols of domestic boating sports and amateur fishing. Despite the emergence of many modern imported analogues, these units continue to plow the expanses of rivers and lakes, proving their exceptional reliability and maintainability, owners value them for their simplicity of design, the availability of spare parts and the ability to work in any conditions, even when using the lowest quality fuel.

However, to Wind served faithfully for many years, you need to know not only its technical features, but also the subtleties of service. The main feature of the Wind design is the presence of a separate propeller assembly with a friction, which avoids engine failure when hitting an underwater obstacle. In this article, we will analyze the model range in detail, consider typical malfunctions and give recommendations for modernization that will help you squeeze the most out of your unit.

Many beginners mistakenly believe that old technology does not require much attention, but this is a misconception. Proper running, timely change of lubrication in the gearbox and proper adjustment of the carburetor can extend the life of the engine for decades. Wind It's still relevant.

Overview of model range and specifications

The history of production began in the mid-60s at the Barnaul Motor Plant (BMZ), during which time several modifications were produced, each of which had its own design features. The main models that are most often found in the secondary market and in operation are engines with a capacity of 8, 9.9 and 12 horsepower. Wind 5 and Wind-14But they're less common.

All models have a two-stroke cycle, forced water cooling and a reverse system, and the engine has a vertical cylinder arrangement, and the torque transfer to the propeller is through an intermediate shaft and conical gears. Wind 12. and Wind 8 have significant differences in the design of the lower unit and ignition system, which must be considered when searching for spare parts.

Below is a comparison table of the main technical specifications of popular modifications, which will help you identify the available unit or choose the right one for purchase.

Parameter	Wind 8	Wind-9.9	Wind 12.
Power, HP.	8	9.9	12
Working capacity, cm3	198	222	222
Max. fuel consumption, l/h	4.0	5.0	6.0
Weight, kg	26	27	27
Type of ignition	Magdino/Electronic	Magdino/Electronic	Magdino/Electronic

When choosing between models, it is important to consider that Wind 12. The eight-strong version is often more economical for light inflatable boats, and the nine-strong model is a kind of "middle ground" offering a balance between thrust and gasoline consumption.

Device of the ignition system and troubleshooting

The ignition system is the heart of any gasoline engine, and Wind Depending on the year of production, the engines could be equipped with magdino MBE-1, MBE-3 or more modern electronic systems BL-1, BL-2. Problems with spark are one of the most common reasons why the engine refuses to start or stalls on the go.

The first thing to check if you don't start is if you have a spark, and to do that, you can twist the candle, put a high-voltage wire on it, and press the candle skirt to the mass, the metal part of the engine. When you snatch the starter abruptly, there's a bright blue spark between the electrodes, and if there's no spark, or if it's a faint, reddish color, the problem is the coil, the capacitor, or the interrupter.

Magdino's diagnostics

On a serviceable Magdino, the gap between the magnetic conductor and the flywheel should be 0.25-0.35 mm. If the gap is smaller, the spark will be weak at high revs, if more, the engine will not start well.

Particular attention should be paid to the state of capacitorIn older models, it often fails, causing the interrupter contacts to burn, replacing the capacitor is a simple procedure, but requires careful soldering, and owners often experience a failure of the ignition coil, especially if the engine is operated for a long time with a malfunctioning candle or a broken gap.

• 🔌 Ignition plug: Check the gap between the electrodes (should be 0.6-0.7 mm) and the presence of sodium. Black sodium indicates a rich mixture, white indicates a poor one.
• ⚡ Switch: On electronic ignition systems, switch failure is a common problem. Check the integrity of the wires and the reliability of the contacts.
• 🧲 Flywheel magnets: Over time, the magnets can demagnetize, which reduces the energy of the spark.

⚠️ Warning: When checking the ignition system, never hold a candle in your hands without insulation! High voltage can cause an unpleasant, though not fatal, electric shock, but a sharp reflex can lead to injury.

If there is a spark but the engine does not start, it is worth checking the angle of ignition ahead. Incorrect setting of the spark moment leads to overheating, detonation and loss of power. Adjustment is made by turning the base of the magdino or changing the position of the interrupter cam.

Repair of the carburetor and fuel system

A carburetor is a knot where air and fuel mix to form a working mixture. Wind It's a typical K-33 carburetor or modification, and the main problem that owners face is unstable idling and failures when the throttle is opened abruptly, and the dirt that gets into the jellyboxes from poor-quality gasoline is most often to blame.

The process of cleaning the carburetor requires complete disassembly. You need to twist all the jellybers, blow them with compressed air and wash them with a special cleaner. Pay special attention to the float chamber: the fuel level must be strictly consistent with the norm. If the float "overflows", the engine will "choke" and smoke. If it does not, you will have a poor mixture that leads to overheating of the piston group.

An important element is also fuel-pump And the old rubber hoses, they swell and crack over time, and they suck air, and that causes the engine to scoop, and replace all the rubber cells with new ones that are resistant to gasoline.

• ⛽ Giclera: The main jikler is responsible for full speed, the idle jikler is responsible for stability on small ones. Don't try to clean them with metal wire, you better use a spray cleaner.
• 🌬️ Leakproofness: Check the gaskets between the carburetor and the cylinder. The air suction in this place depletes the mixture and can cause the piston to burn.
• 🛢️ Mixture quality: Remember that for a two-stroke engine, oil is mixed with gasoline. Use only special oils for two-stroke engines in a ratio of 1:25 or 1:30 (depending on the instructions for the particular model).

The carburetor is set up on a warm engine, the quality screw adjusts the mixture at idle, and the number screw adjusts the speed, and get a setup that keeps the engine running at minimum speeds and responds clearly to the opening of the throttle.

Service of lower unit and Reductor

The bottom of the motor, or lower unit, contains a gearbox, a propeller shaft, and a water-cooled system. This is where the mechanical loads are concentrated. Periodic maintenance is critical to preventing costly repairs. The focus is on the condition of the ossels and the lubrication of the gears.

The oil in the gearbox should be replaced regularly, preferably after every season or every 50 motor hours. The drain hole is at the bottom, the filler hole is above. The oil should flow clean, without emulsion. If you see "mayonnaise" (white emulsion), then the water in the gearbox has been through worn-out glands.

The propeller is another important element: the blades should not have chipped, bulldozed or deformed. Even a small defect can cause vibration that is destructive to the bearings of the shaft. If you hit an obstacle, be sure to remove the screw and check the shaft for a beat.

⚠️ Warning: Never start the motor without being submerged in water or without connecting to a water barrel! a dry run will instantly disable the water-cooled pump and can cause the engine to overheat and jam.

The cooling system consists of a centrifugal pump (impeller) and a cooling shirt. Periodically check the control jet of water coming out of a special hole. If the jet is weak or absent, perhaps the cooling channels are clogged or the rubber pump impeller is worn out. The channels can be cleaned by mechanical means or special chemical means for scale.

Tuning and modernization: is the game worth the effort?

Many owners do not have standard specifications and resort to tuning. The most common and effective way is to install the equipment. electronic ignition (e.g. from The wind-- This eliminates problems with the contact group, facilitates start-up and stabilizes the engine in all modes.

The second popular option is to improve the exhaust system. A regular muffler often creates excessive drag on the "soul" engine. Installing a direct-flow muffler or upgrading the exhaust windows can add 10 to 15 percent of the power, but remember that the engine noise will increase significantly, which may not please the surroundings and GIMS inspectors.

There are also tips for squandering cylinders for larger volumes or installing carburetors from imported engines, which require a personalized approach and often lead to unstable operation. If you lack power, it makes more sense to consider buying a more powerful model than trying to force it. Wind 8 parameterize Wind 12..

• 🚀 Ignition: The transition to a contactless electronic system is the best upgrade for any old model.
• 🔇 Noise insulation: Installing additional noise-absorbing materials on the casing can make staying in the boat more comfortable.
• ⚙️ Ratio ratio: Replacing gear gears can change traction specifications, but requires accurate calculations and turning work.

Typical malfunctions and methods of their elimination

Despite the reliability, there are a variety of problems that can occur in the process of operation, and being able to diagnose them by external signs will save you time and money. Below are the most common symptoms and their likely causes.

If the engine sluggishThe reasons may be: clogging of the fuel filter, improper adjustment of the carburetor, overgrowth of the exhaust windows with soot or damage to the propeller. It is also worth checking the compression: if it is below 6-7 atmospheres, the engine requires repair of the piston group.

In the case where the motor hotCauses: pump failure, clogged cooling channels, poor mixing, or misfired ignition angles, prolonged overheated engine work leads to bullying in the cylinder and wedge.

What if the engine is jammed?

If the engine is jammed, don't try to start it right away. Remove the casing, unscrew the candles, and try to turn the flywheel. If it doesn't turn, it requires disassembling the engine. Often the reason is lack of oil or overheating.

Vibration and noise can indicate an imbalance in the propeller, wear of the bearings of the crankshaft or rod. Vibration is also transmitted to the transom of the boat if the fastening bolts are weakened or deformed by the hub of the motor itself.

Conclusion and Storage Tips

outboard motor Wind It is a time-tested unit that, if properly maintained, can last for decades, its simplicity allows for repairs in almost field conditions, and the availability of spare parts makes it a favorite among Russian water engines. Proper operation, use of a quality mixture and timely maintenance are the key to success.

When you put it in winter storage, be sure to drain the fuel from the tank and the carburetor, replace the oil in the gearbox and can the cylinder, pour some oil through the candle hole and turn the flywheel. Keep the engine better upright in the dry room. Following these simple rules will allow you to meet each new season with confidence in the reliability of your equipment.

What oil is better to pour into the wind reducer?

For the wind gearbox, transmission oils TAP-15B, TAD-17 or special oils for outboard motors are best suited (for example, Nissan Gear Oil or YamalubeThe main requirement is the presence of anti-sharp additives and resistance to emulsification (mixing with water).

Why does the wind stop at high speeds?

Most often this is due to a fuel failure (a jet lag is clogged, a low level in the float chamber) or problems with the ignition system (a high-speed coil break, an incorrect candle gap).

Can you use the wind in salt water?

You can use it, but the engine life is going to be significantly reduced by corrosion. The aluminum alloys that Wind Winds are made of are susceptible to electrochemical corrosion. After each sea trip, the engine needs to be thoroughly washed with fresh water and greased with anticoric.

What is the maximum speed of a boat with a Windy-8 engine?

Speed depends on the weight of the boat and cargo. On a light inflatable boat (220-260 cm) with one person, Veterok-8 can reach a speed of 15-18 km / h. On heavier aluminum boats, the speed will be lower, about 10-12 km / h.