Any owner of a small boat, whether it is a PVC balloon or an aluminum boat, sooner or later faces the problem of transporting and installing heavy attachments. Pulling a outboard motor in your hands is a tedious and sometimes dangerous occupation for the back, especially if it is a powerful two-stroke or four-stroke units weighing from 25 kilograms. moth - a special device, which is a wheeled cart, which turns a difficult loading into a simple walk.
Constructively moth It's a wheel frame that attaches itself to the trunk of a boat or directly to the engine's lower unit, allowing you to move the boat + motor in a horizontal position. It's not just an accessory for the lazy, but a necessity for those who go down alone or in conditions where there are no gentle concrete slips. A properly assembled or purchased motule protects your health and prolongs the life of the engine itself, eliminating impacts on the ground with a sloppy installation.
In this article, we will discuss in detail how to choose a ready-made solution or make a reliable motule yourself, which materials are best to use and how to avoid typical installation errors. 40x40 mm corner It's considered the best choice for a frame and how to calculate the load on the axle correctly. Whether you own a welding machine or prefer bolt joints, there are solutions for your budget and skills.
Why do you need a mottule and when you can not do without it
The main function of the motulator is to reduce the physical load on the operator when moving a boat with an installed engine. If you plan to change fishing places often, drag the boat on sand, grass or pebbles, the presence of a wheel stop becomes critical. The lack of such a device often leads to the fact that the motor has to be carried separately in the hands and the boat is dragged with a drag, which increases the wear of PVC tubes or the bottom of an aluminum boat.
It also acts as an insurance when launching, preventing the motor from falling into water or on solid ground when the boat is already afloat but not yet anchored, and for heavy four-strokes, it is the only way to safely lock the unit before starting the engine. Without a reliable stop, there is a high risk of damage. lower unit Or smash your lower unit leg against the rocks.
It's also worth noting the versatility of the application. The motulator can be a stationary transom or a removable structure. The first is always ready for the trip, the second is saving storage space. The choice depends on how often you use the watercraft and whether you have space to store the boat assembled. For owners of garages or balconies, removable options are often preferred.
Design features and types of motules
There are several basic types of structures that vary in the way they are fastened and in the complexity of their fabrication. frame-mothThis is a structure that is rigidly fixed and can withstand heavy loads, but requires constant space on the transom. The other type is the "sled" motuli that are worn on the lower unit, but they are less versatile and not suitable for all motor models.
The key elements of any motulator are the frame, the wheel axle and the fasteners. The frame is usually made of a profile pipe or corner, which provides the necessary rigidity. The axis must be strong enough to withstand the weight of the engine and part of the weight of the boat when tilted. The wheels are selected depending on the type of soil: for sand you need wide “phaethon” wheels, and for hard coatings will fit standard pneumatic or cast discs.
- 🛠️ Stationary models: welded to the transom, require removal when stored in a narrow place, provide maximum reliability.
- 🔧 Removable structures: They are fastened on bolts or clamps, convenient for transportation and storage, but require installation time.
- ⚓ Universal stops: They can be used for both the engine and for rolling the boat itself, often having adjustable height.
When choosing or designing a structure, it is important to consider the dimensions of your vessel. A too long motule can interfere with movement in shallow water or create additional resistance to water if not removed. So many craftsmen make folding mechanisms or quick-release mounts that allow you to quickly dismantle the thrust before getting on the water.
Materials and tools for self-manufacturing
Making a motulus yourself is a task that is quite feasible for a person with basic skills in working with metal. corner 40x40 mm or 50x50 mm. the Use of a profile pipe 20x40 mm is also permissible, but the corner is easier to install fasteners and provides better rigidity with less weight. the thickness of the metal should be at least 3-4 mm so that the structure does not deform under load.
The axis is best suited to a single steel bar 16-20 mm in diameter or a finished axis from a garden cart. It is important that the metal is of high quality and has no cracks. The fasteners (bolts, nuts, washers) must be made of stainless steel or have a zinc coating, since contact with water is inevitable. Conventional black metal rusts quickly, even if painted, which will lead to loss of strength.
Use galvanized fasteners of strength class 8.8 and above – this will protect the joints from corrosion and vibration, which is inevitable when moving on water and soil.
You'll need a welding machine (preferably a semi-automatic for neat seams), a metal-disced Bulgarian, a drill or drilling machine, a roulette machine and a marker. If you don't plan on using welding, you can build a bolt-based structure, but this will increase the weight and dimensions of the product, and you'll need an anti-corrosion primer and paint that is resistant to water and ultraviolet.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling the motulus
The fabrication process starts with taking measurements from the transom of your boat and the dimensions of the engine. You need to determine the fulcrum so that the center of gravity is approximately on the axis of the wheels. This will ensure that you can move easily. First, you cut the frames according to the drawing. The standard height of the vertical rack is about 40-50 cm and the horizontal part is 30-40 cm, but these dimensions are individual.
Then there's the frame assembly. If welding is used, the parts are grabbed, the angles are checked (usually 90 degrees), and then boiled with a solid seam. Pay special attention to the axis attachment, which must be reinforced with scarves. After the frame is assembled, the brackets are welded or screwed to attach to the transom, and holes are drilled into the bolts of the motor or boat attachment.
☑️ Preparation for motulus assembly
The final step is to install the wheels and paint. The wheels can be mounted on bearings or slippers. The metal must be rusted and degreased before painting. It is recommended to apply two layers of soil and two layers of enamel. Once the paint is dry, the motule is ready to be installed on the boat.
| Parameter | Optimal value | Minimum requirement | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Frame material | Steel corner 40x40 | Profile 20x40 | Wall thickness of mins 3 mm |
| Diameter of the axle | 18-20 mm | 14 mm | Steel St45 or analogue |
| Type of wheel | Pneumatic 10-12" | Cast 8" | Depends on the ground. |
| Max, load. | 80 kg | 40 kg | With a 30% safety margin |
Installation and anchorage
Mounting the finished motulus requires accuracy and accuracy. The fastening must be rigid to exclude the engine from the engine during movement, but at the same time allow you to dismantle the thrust if necessary. Most often, rods or bolt joints are used through a transom. If you drill a transom, be sure to treat the holes with sealants to prevent moisture from entering the material (especially for plywood).
When installing the motor on the motule, make sure that the lower unit leg does not rest against the wheels or frame when fully reclined. The clearance should be at least 5-10 cm. Check whether the motule does not block access to the lower unit drain hole and candle caps (for two-strokes).
⚠️ Attention: Never weld a motule directly to an aluminum transom without using transition steel plates! This can lead to electrochemical corrosion and breakage of the transom. Use insulating pads made of textolite or rubber.
Once installed, do a test on land. Try tilting the boat with the engine to simulate a descent. The design should not creak, stagger or deform. If it's successful, you can go to the pond.
The secret of the durability of welded seams
After welding, be sure to knock down the slag and clean the seam with a Bulgarian to the metal, then cover the welding site with zinc-containing soil (cold galvanizing), which will prevent rust from appearing in the heat-exposure areas, which corrode in the first place.
Care, maintenance and security measures
A metal structure that is in constant contact with water requires regular maintenance. After every trip, especially on salt water, the motule must be rinsed with fresh water. This will wash away the salt and sand that act as an abrasive and a catalyst for corrosion. Once a season, check the condition of the fasteners - vibration can weaken their puff.
Wheels also need attention. Pneumatic tires should be checked for cuts and pressure. Cast discs should be inspected for cracks. Bearings or axle bushes should be lubricated with moisture-resistant lubrication (for example, Lithium ComplexIf you notice a backlash axle, replace the bushings or bearings immediately to avoid breaking at the wrong time.
- 🧼 Wash: Use a soft brush and auto shampoo, avoid aggressive chemicals that can wash away paint.
- 🔩 Lubricant: Regularly lubricate the axis and threaded connections.
- 👀 Visual examination: Before each trip, check the welded seams and fasteners for cracks.
Safety when using the motulator is not only the integrity of the structure, but also the correct operation. Do not overload the cart with a weight greater than the estimated. When launching a boat from a steep shore, always insure the motor with your hand, even if it is on the motulator, as the wheels can get stuck in soft ground.
⚠️ Attention: When storing a boat with an installed engine in winter, it is recommended to dismantle the motule or ensure dry storage. Residual moisture in the hidden cavities of the profile when frozen can tear the metal from the inside.
Regular corrosion treatment and fastener control is a guarantee that your homemade motule will last for decades, not one season.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use a motule for boats without transom (inflatable with floorboards)?
Yes, but the design will be different. Inflatable boats without a hard transom are using motules that are attached to the engine's lower unit and have additional supports that rest on cylinders or paioles through soft pads, but the load on the soft transom or cylinders should be minimal, so these structures are made easily removable.
Which wheels are better: pneumatic or cast (polyurethane)?
For sand, grass and rough shores, large diameter pneumatic wheels are definitely better, providing better coasting and cushioning. Cast wheels are only good for flat concrete slips and asphalt, as they are stiffer and heavier, and can get buried on the sand.
Do I need to remove the motule before getting on the water?
It is advisable to remove if the structure is massive and creates resistance. However, many fishermen leave compact motules on the transom, because they are above the waterline when moving and do not interfere, the main thing is that when the engine is fully reclined (for example, for shallow water), lower unit does not touch the wheels.
Will the homemade motule withstand a 30 hp engine?
Yes, it will withstand if the fabrication is using a profile thickness of at least 3-4 mm, and welds are made qualitatively. It is not so much the size of the engine as its weight. The 30 hp engine weighs about 45-50 kg, which is not a limiting load for a properly assembled steel structure.