The onset of cold weather for the owner of water equipment always means one thing: it’s time to cook. boat-engine The question of whether you can leave the power unit in an unheated garage where the temperature drops below zero is a concern for many water engines, and the answer is not as clear as it may seem, and depends on many factors, including the type of engine, the quality of training and the design of your model.
Modern. Yamaha, Mercury or Tohatsu They're designed to be used in harsh environments, but winter conservation requires strict adherence to technology. If you just drive the equipment into a cold hangar without performing a number of critical procedures, by next season you can get expensive repairs instead of pleasant walks on the water. Let's figure out what risks low temperatures bring and how to minimize them.
The main enemy of any mechanism in winter is not the cold itself, but the moisture left inside the knots. Frozen water expands, causing the pipes, pumps and even the cylinder block to rupture. conservation Cooling systems and fuel lines. In this article, we will look at all the preparation stages in detail.
Effect of low temperatures on engine materials and components
Low temperatures have different effects on the materials that make the outboard motor. Metal parts, such as the crankshaft or piston group, when properly maintained, tolerate frost perfectly. aluminumThe silk, often used in lower units, can become more brittle in extremely low temperatures, although for the normal winter season this is rarely a problem.
Rubber and plastic cells are much more vulnerable, and the oil seals, gaskets, fuel hoses and carburetor seals bluff in the cold, and if you try to start the engine or even just turn the rummel, you can damage the parts that have lost elasticity. cold-start Without prior warming up in a warm room is strictly prohibited.
And you have to pay special attention to lubricants, and standard motor oil, when it's cooled down, thickens to become a jelly-like mass, and that creates tremendous resistance when you start it, when the oil pump hasn't pumped the system yet. Transmission oil in the gearbox also changes its properties, which can lead to increased wear of gears in the first minutes of operation.
⚠️ Warning: A sharp cooling of a heated engine (for example, if you drained hot oil and immediately took the engine out into the cold) can cause the cylinder head to deform due to temperature changes.
It's important to understand that condensate from extreme temperatures is a hidden threat. In an unheated garage, the humidity is often higher than outside, especially if you have a wet boat, and the moisture settles on metal surfaces, triggering processes. corrosionwhich are activated with the arrival of spring heat.
Critical procedures before wintering
Before deciding where to put the engine in the winter, you have to do a basic set of conservation work, and ignoring these steps will make no room choice, the first thing is to remove the water from the cooling system completely, and even a small amount of moisture in a water jacket or pump will turn into ice when it freezes and tear thin-walled elements.
The second critical phase is fuel system work, and gasoline tends to oxidize and break down into fractions, forming a resinous plaque, and during the summer, this plaque clogs the jellies of the carburetor or injector injector injector injectors. fuel-stabilizer.
For four-stroke engines, it is mandatory to change the oil in the crankcase. The acids and combustion products contained in the waste oil are aggressive to metal and can cause corrosion of the internal parts of the engine during idle time. In two-stroke engines, it is recommended to pour a small amount into the cylinders. conservatory-oil And we'll pull the crankshaft to create a protective film.
☑️ Checklist for winter preparations
Don't forget to treat the outer surfaces of the motor with an anti-corrosion spray. Salt, if you have been operating equipment on the sea or salt lakes, should be thoroughly washed away with fresh water, after which the metal parts are covered with a protective composition. Pay special attention to the places of paint chips and fasteners.
Features of storage of two-stroke and four-stroke models
The approach to winter storage varies greatly depending on the engine's efficiency. Two-stroke engines are simpler in design, but more demanding on the quality of the mixture and the state of the fuel system. They do not have a separate lubrication system, oil is mixed with gasoline, so the risk of piston rings and exhaust windows coking when using old fuel is extremely high.
Four-stroke units, such as popular Honda BF or Suzuki DFThey have a complex valve system and a separate crankcase, and it's critical to them that the oil is in condition and there's no condensation in the exhaust system, and when stored in the cold, 4-strokes often freeze the condensate in the muffler, which can create a back pressure on the first run.
Carburetor engines require special attention to the float chamber. Gasoline left in the carburetor for the winter evaporates, leaving a lacquer coating that is almost impossible to remove without completely dismantling the assembly. Injection systems are more reliable in this regard, but they also need to create pressure in the ramp or completely drain the mains.
⚠️ Warning: Never store a full tank of gasoline in an enclosed space without ventilation, fuel vapors heavier than air and can accumulate near the floor, creating explosive concentrations even in the absence of a spark.
The difference is also the ignition system: Older two-stroke magdinos could have had gaps cruising, but modern electronic control units (ECUs) are humidity sensitive, and being in a damp, cold garage without protection can lead to oxidation of the contacts and failure of the electronics.
Garage in the cold: pros, cons and risks
Storing a outboard motor in an unheated garage, where the temperature drops to -20°C or below, has its advantages. The main one is temperature stability. Unlike an apartment where the engine is heated from the battery and cools, the temperature in the garage is kept flat, which minimizes condensation inside the knots if the engine is properly preserved.
But there are also significant downsides: cold metal attracts moisture from the air; if a garage is poorly ventilated or has cracks through which snow blows, the humidity can be high; plastics become brittle in the cold, and accidental impact when moving machinery can lead to cracks that would not be possible in the summer.
Another factor is rodents: A warm engine that has just been running attracts mice less than a cold one, but they like to nest in warm insulating materials that are often used in engine casings. In a cold garage, the risk of mice biting through the wiring or hoses persists throughout the winter.
You also have to consider the temperature changes when you go to the garage, and if you go into the garage in the winter, it gets warmer, the snow on the boat melts, the humidity rises dramatically, and when you leave and the temperature drops again, that moisture condenses on a cold engine, so frequent visits to the garage in winter are more harmful to a canned engine than the constant cold.
Step-by-step instructions for engine conservation
To make the wintering a success, follow a clear algorithm of actions: first warm up the engine on a water barrel or a body of water, so that the bulk of the water comes out and all the nodes warm up. Then turn off the engine and immediately start draining the water. Tilt the lower unit in different directions to remove the residue from the water jacket.
Then you take the fuel. Add the stabilizer to the tank, start the engine for 5-10 minutes, so that the mixture goes through the system. Then shut the faucet and run the fuel out of the carburetor to a stop. For four-stroke motors, change the oil. Grease all the syringes with lithium lubrication.
Sequence of action:1. Engine heating (10-15 min).
2. draining water from the pump and shirt.
3. Fuel system treatment.
4. Oil replacement (for 4T).
5. Syringe of lubrication knots.
Remove the battery.
After machining, wipe the engine with dry rags and treat it with anticort. Set the engine upright. If the engine is two-stroke, it is advisable to close the exhaust hole with a cloth so that rodents do not get in, but do not seal it tightly, you need to microcirculate the air.
Do I need to take the motor off the boat?
Removing the motor from the transom for the winter is recommended, which will free the transmutation board from load, prevent deformation of the springs of the suspension of the engine and give access to cleaning and maintenance of the boat itself, and also the motor in the vertical position on the rack takes up less space and is more stable.
Comparison of storage conditions: risk table
To determine where you're going to winter, let's compare the different types of maintenance that you're going to have, and each has different specifications that can be crucial to the life of your equipment.
| Storage conditions | Risk of corrosion | Risk for rubber | Risk for electronics | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Apartment (warmth) | Low. | High (dry) | Low. | Only after a thorough salt wash |
| Garage (frost) | Medium (condensate) | Medium (blowning) | Medium. | Optimal with proper conservation |
| Under the awning outside | Highly | High (UV + frost) | High (humidity) | Not recommended without a cover |
| Service centre | Low. | Low. | Low. | Perfect, but paid. |
And you can see from the table that an unheated garage is a compromise, but it's a good option, and the key is to keep the machine from getting snow and moisture directly, and if the garage is metal and gets very hot during the day and freezes at night, it creates perfect conditions for condensation, and in such cases, it's better to cover the engine with a breathable case.
⚠️ Warning: The use of sealed plastic bags or films to wrap the engine is prohibited, and the film creates a "greenhouse effect", and the metal will rust much faster than in the open air.
When you choose a location, you also want to consider the possibility of theft: the motor is liquid property. In a cold garage, locks can freeze and alarms can work unstable due to the discharge of batteries at low temperatures. The optimum temperature for most outboard motors is in the range of -10°C to +10°C.This is often seen in unheated but insulated garages.
Preparations for the first launch after winter
It's winter, and it's time to go back to the water. Don't rush to start the engine immediately, which is frozen. Put the engine in a warm room (heated garage or house) at least 12-24 hours before launch, so that all the lubricants warm up and become working fluid, and the condensate, if it forms, has time to evaporate.
Check the oil level, the condition of the spark plugs. If the candles look wet or black, they are better replaced or calcined. In four-stroke engines, make sure that the oil is not milky, which indicates the ingestion of antifreeze or water (although there is no antifreeze in the outboard motor, water can enter through the glands).
Before you first start after winter, unplug the fuel hose and blow the system with a pear. If there's any old gasoline left in the hose, it can make it difficult to start.
Don't start at full speed on the first run. Let the engine run for 3-5 minutes idle so that the oil goes to all the nodes. Listen to the sound of the work: an extraneous knock or noise can indicate problems that have arisen during the downtime. If everything went smoothly, you can gradually increase the speed.
The key to engine durability is not so much the storage area as the quality of the conservation, and cold is not terrible for a dry and preserved engine.
Can I store the motor horizontally in winter?
It is strongly advised not to store the outboard motor lying on its side throughout the winter, and in this position, the oil from the gearbox can flow into the lower unit and leak through the ossels, and oil or condensate can leak into the cylinder. This will lead to a hydraulic shock when started. A short position on the side during transportation is allowed, but only for storage vertically.
Do I need to cover the engine with a cover in the garage?
Yes, but the case must be made of breathable fabric, special covers for outboard motor protect against dust, spider webs and rodents, but allow moisture to evaporate, plastic film is forbidden, because it will bake moisture inside.
How often should I start the engine in winter for prevention?
Starting the engine in winter "for prevention" without putting it on water and fully warming up under load is a bad idea. It will only create a new condensate in the silencer and crankcase, which will not have time to evaporate on singles. It is better to preserve one quality time and not touch until spring.
What to do if the water in the engine is frozen?
If you find that the pump water is frozen, do not try to spin the starter or pull the starter cord. This will lead to a break in the starter gears or break the pump impeller. Put the motor in heat and wait for full defrosting. Only after the water has leaked, you can conduct diagnostics.