Effective loading It is often a test when the equipment is not properly prepared. Many owners of water equipment face a situation where the vessel cannot be steered straight to the lozenges, especially in the presence of wind or current. guide-piece.
These devices are metal racks with nozzles that form a kind of corridor for the body of the boat. trailer configuration This allows you to start the vessel from the water almost without assistance, minimizing the risk of damage to the skin or bottom, and in this article we will discuss in detail what types of stops exist and how to adjust them for perfect sliding.
Ignoring this aspect of operation can result in costly repairs to both the trailer and the boat. Correctly exposed guides take on the lateral load when hitting, preventing the hull from slipping off the frame. Letβs look at the main components of the positioning system.
Design and purpose of side guides
lateral guidepost These are the first elements that a boat comes into contact with when lifting out of the water, and they are placed on both sides of the trailer frame and serve as a visual and physical reference point for the driver or assistant steering the vessel. boat-trailer.
The structurally structured rack consists of a vertical pipe that is welded or bolted to the frame's sparrow, and a horizontal bracket. At the end of the bracket, a contact element is installed. Depending on the type of boat and the owner's personal preferences, the material choice of the contact part can vary. For aluminum housings, soft materials are often used to avoid scratches, whereas for fiberglass, a smooth surface of slip is important.
The height of the installation is adjusted depending on the shape of the side and the angle of kilevity. Too low installation will lead to the fact that the board will cling to the metal of the frame, and too high will not give the desired directional effect. Altitude adjustment This is a key parameter that requires an individual approach for each model of the vessel.
- π€ Metal pipes: provide rigidity of the structure, but require mandatory installation of protective covers.
- π‘οΈ Plastic nozzles: They are popular due to their low cost and ease of replacement, but they can crack in the cold.
- π Rubber rollers: Provide better sliding and depreciation, ideal for heavy boats.
It's important to understand that the side elements don't have to take over the weight of the boat when you're transporting them, they're just to guide them, and the bulk of the weight is distributed to the keel rollers and the paddles, and if you're driving down the track, you hear a knock or you feel vibration from the side's contact with the rails, you're going to be able to move around. regulation is broken It requires immediate intervention.
Kilt guides and nose stops
The central element of the positioning system is keel-stampIt's the one that meets the bow of the boat first when it comes on the ramp, and the accuracy of its installation determines whether the keel enters the central chute between the rollers or rests on the side.
Modern keel guides are often made in the form of V-shaped rollers or wide flat areas with low friction. For boats with a deep keel (V-bottom), it is critical to use narrow ones. V-shaped stopsThey're very similar to the geometry of the bottom, and flat-floorers are more likely to have broad horizontal platforms that spread the load over a larger area.
Why does the keel roller wear out faster than others?
The keel roller takes on the maximum impact load when the boat trailer touches, and when driving on rough roads, it is the central part that carries the main weight of the nose end, which leads to flattening of the rubber or abrasion of the plastic, and regular checks of the condition of this element should become a habit.
The material of the keel is also important. Rubber rollers with bearings provide smooth running, but require lubrication and maintenance. Polyurethane inserts are more durable, but can be stiffer. Nose accent It must be mounted at such a height that when fully loaded, the boat rests on it, but does not hang completely, transferring all the weight to the breather.
When you install, pay attention to the angle of inclination of the keel guide, which should correspond to the angle of keeliness of the boat in the bow. If the angle does not match, the point of contact will be displaced, which will lead to uneven wear and possible slipping under sharp braking.
Manufacture materials: plastic, rubber or metal
Selection of material contact-surface It's always a trade-off between durability, cost and safety for covering a boat, and each type of material has its own physical properties that dictate its application.
Plastic elements (often made from PVC or polyethylene) are the most common because of their availability, they're inert to water and they don't rust. However, when exposed to ultraviolet light, plastic becomes brittle, and in extreme frost, it can burst on impact, and their main advantage is a smooth surface that doesn't scratch the gelcoat.
Rubber rollers They're very effective at cushioning, they're very effective at dampening vibrations when you're driving on the road, they're very effective at mitigating shocks when you're loading, and they're very good at keeping a good tyre on the body, but they tend to age, dry up and become algae when you keep the trailer wet for a long time.
| Materials | Durability | Protection of the hull | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Solid plastic | Medium | High. | Low. |
| Rubber (rubber) | High. | Very high. | Medium |
| Metal (galvanizing) | Very high. | Low (requires a case) | High. |
| Wood (cedar/tick) | Low. | Medium | Low. |
Use silicone lubrication on rubber rollers before long-term storage in winter β this will prevent the material from drying out and cracking.
Uncoated metal guides are strongly discouraged from contacting the hull of the boat. Even galvanized steel can eventually oxidize at scratch sites. If you use metal brackets, make sure they are wearing special gear. cover-case It's made of thick fabric or rubber.
Technology of installation and height adjustment
Installation guidepost It starts with the fixing points on the trailer frame, which are usually welded to the outer sparser, and it's important to keep the symmetry in mind that the distance from the left and starboard sides to the center axle must be identical, and any deviation will cause the boat to sway.
The process of adjusting the height requires the boat itself. The trailer is driven under the boat (or the boat is lowered on the trailer) so that it takes up transport position. Only at this point can you accurately determine the required height of the side stops. They should touch the side in the area of the cheekbones, but not press on it from above and not stand too far.
β οΈ Warning: Never fix the guides "by eye" without fitting on the boat. A mistake of 2-3 centimeters can make loading impossible or damage the sideboard against the metal edge of the frame.
The bolted junctions are often used to attach the adjustment elements, allowing the bracket to move vertically, allowing the height to be changed depending on the load of the boat (fuel, equipment), and after setting the optimal position, all nuts must be securely trimmed so that the vibration does not weaken. fixture.
βοΈ Verification of the installation of guides
Features for different types of buildings
The configuration of the guides depends on the geometry of the bottom and the material of the housing. flyboat (PVC) The surface smoothness requirements are maximum, and any rough element can damage cylinders, often using wide plastic sleds or special soft rollers wrapped in carpet.
Flat-bottomed aluminum boats (plate-bottomed) require a wide footing to distribute weight and avoid point loads that can lead to deformation of the bottom. lateral guide Often lowered lower, relying on the flatter parts of the side, closer to the bottom.
The fiberglass boats with the deep V-keel need precise alignment, and the keel roller is important here, and the lateral guides for these vessels are mounted higher, working with the top of the board, so that the keel does not interfere with the approach of the ramp.
There are universal systems that use removable nozzles, which allows you to adapt the same trailer to different boats, changing the configuration of the stops, but for constant operation, it is better to have a specialized configuration for a particular vessel.
Maintenance and protection against corrosion
Constant contact with water, especially salt water, makes guides vulnerable to corrosion. Even if the trailer frame is galvanized, welding sites and fasteners require attention. Regular freshwater washing after each seagoing out is a basic rule. maintenance.
Mobile parts, like roller axes, need periodic lubrication. Use water-resistant lubricants that don't wash away or break down rubber. If you notice that the roller stopped rotating and just rubs against the boat, you have to remove it, clean it from the dirt, and lubricate the bearing or bushing.
β οΈ Warning: Do not use solidol or litol to lubricate water-contacting nodes unless they are designed to do so. These lubricants are quickly washed out and can contribute to the accumulation of sand and abrasive, which will turn into a grinding paste for your bearing.
Check the plastic and rubber elements for cracks, and the microcracks can grow over time, and the piece of plastic will break off right during loading, leaving a sharp metal edge that can damage the board. replacement cheaper than repairing a boat.
Regular inspection and lubrication of the moving elements of the tracks prolong the service life of the trailer and guarantee the safety of the boat during transportation.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
At what height should the side guides be installed?
The optimal height is determined experimentally for each boat. Usually the upper edge of the guide should touch the side in the area of the cheekbones or slightly lower, when the boat is completely on the keel rollers. The main rule is that when moving the boat should not rub against the metal of the frame, but should not have too much backlash from side to side.
Can I use wooden bars instead of plastic linings?
Yes, wood (especially hard rocks like oak or teak) has historically been used to protect enclosures. However, wood requires constant maintenance: oil soaking, grinding and replacing when rotting. Modern polymers last longer and do not require such attention, although the tree remains popular among connoisseurs of classics.
How often should you change the rubber rollers to the guides?
The life of the rubber depends on the intensity of operation and storage conditions. On average, high-quality rubber rollers last 3-5 seasons. If you notice that the rubber has become hard, cracked or lost its shape (flattened), the element should be replaced immediately.
Do I need to lubricate the guides before each load?
No, you don't need to lubricate the contact surfaces themselves (plastic or rubber), it can lead to contamination of the housing, only the axes of rotation of the rollers inside the mechanism are lubricated, the surface must be clean and dry for better control when maneuvering.