A situation where after winter downtime or in the middle of a reservoir No two-stroke engine startsIt's a familiar experience for many aquatic motorists, and instead of a confident roar of the engine, the starter just lazily scrolles the crankshaft, or the machine sneezes, but refuses to go to steady idling speeds. two-stroke (whether itβs Tohatsu, Mercury, or chainsaws) is simple and logical.
To successfully launch any ICE requires three critical components: the right spark, the right fuel-air mixture and sufficient fuel-to-air mixture. compressionIf one of these elements falls out of the equation, it becomes impossible to start, and in this article we will discuss a fault-finding algorithm that will help you avoid an expensive service visit and return to the water on your own.
Before you grab the tools, you need to make a first visual assessment of the state of the unit, and often the reason is trivial and lies in small things that are easy to overlook in a stressful situation. Never try to start the engine if gasoline is clearly dripping from the exhaust or fuel system β this can lead to a fire. Make sure you are in a well-ventilated place and follow all safety measures.
Verification of fuel supply system and mixture quality
The most common reason why No two-stroke engine startsUnlike the four-strokes, two-strokes are extremely sensitive to the quality of gasoline and the correct mixing of it with oil. If you use old gasoline left over from last season, the probability of launch tends to zero, as the light fractions evaporate and the resin clog the channels.
First, check the fuel filter and the gas tank for water or condensate. Water is heavier than gasoline and always accumulates at the bottom, hitting the carburetor at the first spurt of the starter. Also make sure that the fuel crane is open and the fuel pump pear is solid and resilient after a few taps. If the pear is not filling, perhaps a vent plug in the tank lid or a return valve is damaged.
Special attention should be paid to the carburetor. If the engine was long standing, the gasoline in the float chamber could evaporate, leaving a lacquer plaque on the chicks. In some cases, removing and purging the carburetor helps, but often requires a full-fledged carburetor. defecation And remember, the membranes of the carburetor will tan and lose their elasticity over time, and they stop pumping fuel properly.
- π’οΈ Check the ratio of oil and gasoline: for modern engines it is usually 1:50, for old ones β 1:25.
- π§ Pour the sludge out of the fuel filter before each launch attempt.
- π§ Make sure that the fuel hoses do not have cracks and do not suck air.
- β½ Use only fresh gasoline with the octane number recommended by the manufacturer (usually AI-92 or AI-95).
β οΈ Attention: Never keep an outboard motor full of gasoline in winter, and the fuel oxidizes and becomes an aggressive substance that corrodes the rubber seals and clogs the carburetor's jellyplates, and the tank must be completely drained for the winter, and the engine has drained the remaining fuel from the system.
Diagnostics of the ignition system and candles
If the fuel is all right, the next step is to check the ignition system, and the spark must be strong, stable, and come at a specific moment. To check, turn the candle, plug a high-voltage wire tip into it, and press the threaded part to the top of the wire. mass The engine (metallic part of the cylinder) scrolling with the starter should skip a bright blue and white spark.
The color of the candle can tell you a lot about the state of the engine. If the candle is black and wet, it's too rich (a lot of gasoline, not enough air). If the candle is white or has a melted electrode, the mixture is too poor, which is dangerously overheating. The ideal color is brick-brown. Also check the gap between the electrodes, which should meet the specification, usually 0.7-0.8 mm for most outboard motors.
What to do if there is no spark at all?
If there is no spark, check the integrity of the high-voltage wire. Often it breaks at the cap itself. It can also be a malfunction of the ignition coil or Hall sensor. In CDI (capacitor ignition) systems, a common problem is a failure of the thyristor or capacitor. Check for voltage on the primary coil when the starter is scrolled using a multimeter in AC measurement mode.
It's important to consider the impact of the Lanyard switch, which is that if you lose your check or it's not fully plugged in, there won't be any sparks at all, and it's a defense mechanism that's often overlooked in a hurry, and in some of the current models, there are also some models that are not very good at all. ignition It can be blocked by the throttle position sensor if it is open too strongly at start.
- π Check the density of the candle cap planting and the absence of oxides on the contacts.
- β‘ Use dielectric lubricant to treat contacts of high-voltage wires.
- π§Ή Clean the candle from the soda with a soft brush, without damaging the electrode.
- π¦ Examine the candle insulator for cracks through which the spark may escape.
Air system and condition of air filter
The internal combustion engine is essentially an air pump. If the air is restricted or disrupted, the right mixture will not form. Dirty, soaked in oil or water. air-filter Remove the filter and try to start the engine without it (short term, diagnostics only). If the engine starts, the problem is found.
It's also worth checking the status of the petal valve that's between the carburetor and the cylinder, and that node is responsible for the fuel mixture's movement, and if the petals are deformed, chipped, or not fitting tightly to the seat, the mixture will be pushed back into the intake manifold in a compression stroke, which leads to "slaps" in the carburetor and the inability to start the engine.
When assembling the air filter after cleaning, make sure that it fits tightly to the carburetor body. Even a minimal gap will lead to a sucking of unfiltered air, which causes impoverishment of the mixture and can cause a piston to burn.
Don't forget the intake tract is tight. Sucking air through the gasket between the carburetor and the cylinder or through the crankshaft's glands makes the mixture too poor, and you can check this by spraying WD-40 joints or a carburetor cleaner with the engine running (or trying to work), and if the speed changes, then the tightness is broken.
| A symptom. | Probable cause | Action. |
|---|---|---|
| The engine catches, but it stops. | I'm idling kicker. | Clean the carburettor. |
| Cotton in the carburetor | Leakproofness of the petal valve | Replace the petals or valve assembly |
| Engine troit | Breaking of a candle or VB wire | Replace the candle, check the spark |
| Difficult hot-start. | Overheating or steam plug | Let the cooling go, check the cooling system |
Compression and mechanical failure
The third whale, which holds the engine, compressionWithout sufficient cylinder pressure, the mixture cannot burn efficiently. For two-stroke engines, pressure in the 6-9 atmosphere range is normal (depending on the model), and the compressometer is measured through the candle hole with the throttle fully open.
Low compression is most often indicative of piston rings being stiff or worn, a bully on the cylinder mirror, or failure of the crankshaft glands. If the engine was long, the rings could stick to the piston, in which case it sometimes helps to pour a small amount of oil into the cylinder and aging for several hours, after which you can try to carefully turn the crankshaft.
βοΈ Diagnostics of engine mechanics
Notice the state of the exhaust system. In two-stroke engines, the exhaust windows of the cylinder and the muffler resonator are prone to becoming fouled with swelling. A heavily clogged muffler creates backpressure that prevents the gases from escaping, and the engine stalls immediately after starting or does not start at all. decopier (Removal of the coke) is necessary to maintain power.
β οΈ Attention: When measuring compression, be careful. A sharp surge in pressure can knock out the compressometer or damage the thread. Wrap the device carefully, without undue effort, especially in the aluminum cylinder heads.
Effects of temperature and operating conditions
The ambient temperature and the engine temperature are critical to the start-up process. A cold engine requires a rich mixture, so many carburetors have a start-up enricher. If you try to start a hot engine with a suction, you will flood the candles and you will not start.
In winter or at low temperatures, the viscosity of the oil in the fuel mixture increases, making it difficult to spray with a carburetor. In addition, condensate in the exhaust system can freeze, creating an ice plug. Before starting in the cold, it is recommended to apply the engine to a warm room for at least a few hours.
The correct cold engine start technique is to close the air damper, roll 2-3, open the damper halfway and try to start. If it doesn't catch, repeat the cycle.
Also, you should consider altitude. At high altitudes, the air is thin, and standard carburetor settings can give you a rich mixture. If you plan to operate a boat in mountainous conditions, adjust the fuel jelly.
Algorithm of actions for "drenched" candles
A common mistake for beginners is to try to launch repeatedly with the air valve closed, and as a result, the candle fills with gasoline, and the spark stops skipping, as the wet electrode becomes a conductor, the engine in this state does not "grasp" even when properly ignitioned.
To dry the candles, you have to twist them out, wipe them dry and blow the cylinder. To do this, insert the candle into the tip, press the mass and, opening the throttle (gas curator) completely, make 10-15 jerks with the starter. This will remove the excess fuel from the combustion chamber. After that, turn the dry candles in and try to start the engine without a sucker.
If that doesnβt work, you can use the βfire blowβ method (extremely careful!) Some mechanics carefully heat the threaded part of the candle with flames to vaporize the residue of oil and gasoline, but the modern and safe method is to replace it with a new, obviously dry candle for diagnosis.
- π¬οΈ Blow through the cylinder with open throttle to maximize airflow.
- π₯ Do not use open fire near the fuel system and gasoline vapors.
- π§ͺ Use a carburetor cleaner to wash the flooded candles.
- π Change candles regularly, they are consumables.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use car spark plugs in a outboard motor?
Candles for two-stroke engines have a different potassium number and design adapted to work in an oily environment. The car candle will quickly become covered with charcoal and fail, which will lead to ignition skips.
Why does the engine start and immediately stop if you release the gas?
It's likely that the idle channel in the carburetor is clogged or the screw quality adjustment of the mixture is disturbed, and the problem can also lie in the air suction through the intake manifold, which impoverishes the mixture at low revs.
How often do I need to change the fuel filters?
Replaceable paper or mesh filters should be checked before each release, and it is recommended to replace them once a season or every 100 hours, depending on the quality of the fuel used.
What if the engine doesnβt start at all after winter?
There's a 90 percent chance that the problem is with the old fuel and the coked carburettor, you need to drain the fuel completely, replace the candles, clean or replace the fuel filters, and you may need to professionally clean the carburettor.