Choosing a vehicle to transport an inflatable swimmer often puts the owner in a dilemma: buy a specialized trailer or get by with the standard on-board option. trailer It is not suitable for transporting PVC boats because of the lack of specific padding or rollers. However, practice shows that with a competent approach and minimal improvement, the regular onboard platform copes with the task as well as expensive analogues. The key factor here is not the type of trailer, but the correct organization of the load attachment and weight distribution.
The cost of specialized models with a V-shaped profile can be two to three times higher than that of classic "boarders" with a carrying capacity of up to 750 kg. Given that the weight of an inflatable boat with an engine, a gas tank and equipment rarely exceeds 300-400 kilograms, overpayment for a specialized frame often looks inexpedient. Conventional trailer It's versatile: it carries a boat in the summer, build materials or a motorized block in the fall, and in the winter it can be used to transport a snowmobile if you adapt the platform, and it's this versatility that makes it a favorite among practical anglers and tourists.
In this article, we will discuss in detail the technical nuances of the operation of a standard trailer for the transportation of inflatable vessels. You will learn how to prepare a platform to exclude damage to cylinders, what legal subtleties exist when registering with the traffic police and how to independently manufacture reliable lodgings. The main advantage of using a standard trailer is the ability to quickly adapt to any task without losing driving qualities. We will look at real cases of improvements and compare their effectiveness with factory solutions.
Design features of on-board trailers for the transport of boats
A standard trailer is a frame with sides that can be removable or stationary. For the carriage of a PVC boat, the presence of sides often becomes an extra element that prevents the correct stacking of cylinders. Unlike specialized trailers, where the frame is open and has a V-neck, you have to find a compromise. Most owners dismantle the sides, leaving only a clean board, which greatly simplifies the loading process. It is important to pay attention to the material of the platform: if it is smooth sheet metal, the risk of damage to the PVC fabric is minimal, but the slip will be high.
Particular attention should be paid spring-suspension Conventional trailers often have a single axle, which is quite enough for boat-themed. However, if you plan long trips on a full-load track, it is worth thinking about the condition of shock absorbers. The dampers on cheap models can be weak, which will cause the boat to rock on the roughness of the road. This creates a sailing effect and increases the load on the coupling assembly. Increased suspension or replacement of shock absorbers with more rigid analogues is a common practice among experienced boaters.
Platform dimensions are also crucial. For boats up to 3.6-3.8 meters long, the standard body length (usually about 2 meters clean) may not be enough if overhangs are not used. The trailer's breathing takes on the function of continuing the support surface. You need to make sure that the geometry of the frame allows you to secure the transom part of the vessel safely, without the risk of slipping off during sharp braking. Extension breathing or installation of an additional support roller on the trunk - frequent types of modernization.
Platform preparation: cylinder protection and support
The most critical task when using a conventional trailer is to protect inflatable tubes from abrasion and puncture. The smooth metal of the platform, especially if it has burrs, welds or rust residues, is able to wipe the dense PVC fabric in one trip on gravel road. Before each laying of the boat, you need to conduct a thorough surface inspection. Any irregularities should be ground and sharp edges are drowned out. The ideal solution is to deck the platform of plywood, linoleum or carpet sheets, which take the role of the buffer.
But just putting the boat on a flat surface is not enough. On the road, you get vibrations that cause the fabric to frictate against the metal. To avoid this, you need to organize footholds that mimic the pads. The simplest way is to use car cameras cut along, or special inflatable tubes that are stacked across the platform under the pendant. A more advanced option is to make wooden or metal arcs that are upholstered with soft material that are attached to the sides or frame.
It's important to keep the transom in the right position. It doesn't have to be hanging in the air, it's just on the keel, otherwise, if you shake the transom board, you can break the tray board, or damage the mounting point of the diewood motor. You have to put a rigid support under the tray, and you often use a wooden timber with a rubber lining or a good old-fashioned one. rampThis allows you to fix the aft part of the boat and relieve the load from the cylinders in the transom area.
Use old carpets with a pile outwards: they perfectly extinguish the vibration and prevent the boat from sliding, unlike smooth linoleum.
Fixing systems: slings, chains and fixation units
The safety of transportation depends on the quality and the layout of the cargo. For fixing PVC boats on a conventional trailer, it is best to use textile tie straps (slings) with a ratchet mechanism. The use of ropes, even sea knots, is not recommended, since they tend to stretch and weaken in the way, requiring constant stops for lifting. Flying belts They allow you to create controlled tension by pressing the boat against the platform, but not deforming it.
The mounting circuit should be symmetrical and cross-sectional. There are four fixing points that are usually used: two straps in the bow and two in the stern. The nose straps are wound through a duck or a ruffle bolt on the forehead and are attached to the sides of the trailer at an angle, creating a tension forward and down. The stern straps fix the transom part, preventing the boat from moving backwards when braking. It is strictly forbidden to attach the belts directly to the inflatable tubes without rigid pressure points, as the fabric can damage.
⚠️ Warning: Never pull the belts to a "stone" state. Excessive pressure can warp the cylinders, and in the sun, when the air inside warms and expands, it will lead to critical tissue tension and possible seam ruptures.
For added safety, especially in long distances, it is recommended to use a safety cable or chain, thrown over the keel of the boat and attached to the frame of the trailer. This will prevent the boat from breaking off in the event of sudden destruction of the main anchorages or breakage of ratchets. It is also worth checking the condition of hooks and carbines: they must be without sharp edges that can cut belts or cylinders in the wind.
Legal aspects: registration and traffic police rules
According to the current legislation, trailers with a gross mass of up to 750 kg do not require a separate number if they are used as part of a passenger car, but they must be registered with the traffic police and have a vehicle passport (PTS). When transporting a boat, it is important to monitor the dimensions of the cargo. If the boat with the engine and equipment protrudes beyond the dimensions of the trailer by more than 1 meter in front or behind, or more than 0.4 meters on the sides, you need to install a sign “large cargo”.
Particular attention should be paid to lighting devices. Even if you are driving a boat during the day, the trailer lights must be in good working order and not closed with the load. In the dark, if the load overlaps the rear lights of the car and the trailer, additional light alarms are required on the protruding parts of the boat. The absence of reflectors or a non-functioning headlight can cause a fine and create an emergency on the road.
The table below shows the basic requirements for the transport of boats on trailers of category B:
| Parameter | Requirement/Regulation | Responsibility |
|---|---|---|
| Max. cargo width | 2.55 meters (without special permit) | Fine, prohibition of exploitation |
| Overhang from behind | More than 1 meter - sign "KG" | Warning or fine |
| Overhang in front | More than 1 meter - sign "KG" | Warning or fine |
| Firming | Exclusive fall and displacement | Fine, risk of accident |
| Lighting devices | Must be visible. | Fine |
When the traffic police inspector stops, the main documents will be the rights of category B (for towing trailers up to 3,500 kg, a separate category is not necessary if the total weight of the road train does not exceed 3,500 kg, otherwise category E is needed), PTS for the trailer and documents for the outboard motor (especially if it is more powerful than 5 hp and requires registration with the GIMS, although this is rarely asked during transportation).
☑️ Pre-departure checks
Tuning and improvement DIY
Making a conventional trailer the perfect vehicle for a PVC boat often requires creativity. pole-roller This allows you to roll the boat onto the platform without too much friction, and to do this, you have a rubber or plastic roller bracket at the end of the breather, which takes the weight of the boat's nose when loading, and you can make this knot from the water pipe and the bearings.
Another useful development is the creation of removable padding arcs, which, unlike stationary arcs, do not interfere with the use of the trailer for other purposes. The design is two U-shaped brackets from a profile pipe that are inserted into sockets on the sides or frame, and a soft pipe is put on the upper bar (for example, a cut garden hose or a special PVC pipe), which creates two points of support under the cylinders, lifting the boat above the bottom of the trailer and providing ventilation, which reduces the risk of "spout" of fabric.
⚠️ Attention: When welding additional structures on the trailer frame, be sure to remove rubber breakers and protect springs from overheating. The metal of the frame should be cleaned to shine and re-painted with anticort to avoid corrosion in the welding areas.
It's also worth thinking about arranging a storage space for equipment, and it's convenient to attach plastic boxes on the sides of a conventional trailer for anchors, life jackets and tools, which frees up space in the trunk of the car and centers the load, and locks or latches to prevent loss of things on the track.
The secret of perfect painting of improvements
Use hammer paint over rust – it hides small metal defects and creates a very strong, non-slip coating that is not afraid of stones hitting.
Comparison: conventional trailer vs. specialized
Is the sheepskin worth making? Let's compare two approaches: a specialized PVC boat trailer (with pads) provides perfect repeatability: the boat always falls into place, the risk of error is minimal. However, its price is high and its functionality is limited. A conventional trailer takes time to "dancing with a diamond" at the first setup, but ultimately gives flexibility.
The table below provides a comparison of key specifications:
| Characterization | Conventional trailer | Specialized (boat) |
|---|---|---|
| Price. | Low/Mediocre | High. |
| Universality | High (loads, machinery) | Low (boats only) |
| Protection of the boat | Needs further development | Factory, optimal. |
| Loading | Medium complexity | Light (water ride) |
| Sailing | Depends on the stacking. | Low (boat inscribed in size) |
If you own a small PVC boat and go out to the water 10-15 times a season, a conventional trailer with a competent modification is a more economically viable solution. If the boat is large (over 4 meters), heavy and you plan to descent from the water directly from the trailer (although this is rare for PVC, more often use wheeled wheels), then a specialized option may be more convenient.
For 90% of owners of PVC boats, a conventional trailer with homemade lodgings is the best choice in terms of price / quality / versatility.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do I need to remove the engine when transporting on a conventional trailer?
Yeah, engine-lift First, it reduces the load on the boat trawler, which, when shaking on rough roads, can crack under the weight of lower unit. Second, it centers the weight and reduces sailing, the motor is better carried vertically in the trunk or body of the car, before draining the fuel.
Can I transport a boat in a swollen state?
Theoretically, if the length of the trailer and the dimensions of the road allow, it does, however, increase sailing, increase fuel consumption and the risk of damage to the boat with branches or low-hanging wires, and if you heat the balloon in the sun, it changes pressure, which requires control, and it is optimal to carry it in a deflated or semi-deflated state in bags or on a platform.
How often should I check the tension of the belts in transit?
The first check is required 10-15 km after the start of movement, when the load "settled", then it is recommended to check the mounting at each stop (refueling, rest), Textile belts tend to stretch slightly, and timely lift will protect you from loss of cargo.
How to replace the pads if there is no time for improvement?
In an emergency, you can use tight blankets rolled up in rollers or old car cameras pumped with air, the main thing is to create a soft layer between the metal and PVC. However, it is not worth long to operate a boat on such a soft spot due to the risk of shifting the cargo.
lifehack
Remove the belts from the trailer after the season, wash them and dry. Metal elements of ratchets lubricate WD-40 so that in the spring they do not acidify.
So to sum up, a conventional trailer is a great, budget-friendly and versatile tool for a boating, and with minimal investment, it becomes a reliable carrier for your boat, and the key is to keep up with safety rules, check the condition of the mounts regularly, and respect the PVC material, protecting it from the aggressive effects of the road.