Night fishing or movement on the pond in conditions of limited visibility requires not only excellent navigation, but also high-quality navigation. lightingThe right lights not only allow you to see gear and catch, but also make the vessel visible to other participants in the movement, which is critical for safety. Unlike metal boats, PVC boats require a special approach to attachment and electrical wiring, since the hull material is sensitive to overheating and mechanical damage.
The modern market offers many solutions, from simple headlights to full-fledged systems. LED lights But to keep the system running for years and not having problems at the most critical time, there are a lot of nuances to consider, from the type of lamps you choose to seal the connections. Inflatable boat It is a complex engineering product, where every element of tuning must be thought out.
In this article, we'll look at how to create an efficient and safe lighting system yourself, how to install lights on boards and transverses, and how to protect the electrical circuit from water, and how to make sure you're comfortable on the water even after sunset.
Choice of type of light sources for PVC boats
The first thing that starts with planning is the choice of lighting technology, which was the standard for incandescent lamps for a long time, but today they're almost completely replaced. LEDs (LEDs)The main advantage of LED technologies is low power consumption, which saves battery power, and high vibrational resistance, which is critical for inflatable transport.
LED tapes And the individual modules provide bright, directional light that doesn't heat up, which is an important factor, because PVC material can deform or even melt when it comes to long-term contact with the hot elements of classical lamps. In addition, LED sources often have a wide range of operating temperatures.
When choosing, you should also pay attention to the color temperature. For fishing, cold white light is preferable, which better transmits contrasts, but to preserve night vision, experienced boaters recommend using the same. red-lightIt does not cause pupil reflex and allows you to see the map or tackle without losing the eye's adaptation to the dark.
⚠️ Warning: Never use open halogen lamps in the vicinity of cylinders. Even brief contact or sparking can cause burnout. PVC fabric and a water emergency.
Lighting and zoning planning
Before drilling holes or cutting cables, you need to clearly identify areas that require lighting. Chaotically hung lights will create glare on the water, interfere with the view, and will blind the helmsman. zoning It involves the division of light into working, navigation and general.
The work area is usually located in the bow or in the center of the cockpit, where the fisherman handles the tackle. Navigation lights are mandatory and must be installed on special masts or boards, providing circular visibility. Additional light is often placed on a transom to illuminate the engine or water at the stern.
It's important to allow for independent inclusion of different circuits, for example, when you park, you may only need dim light in the cockpit, and when you move, you need bright light on the side. tumbler or switches.
- 💡 Fore: main searchlight or running lights for viewing the path.
- 💡 Central part: soft diffuse light for work with tackles.
- 💡 Tranza: engine propeller illumination and water purity control.
Electrical wiring and moisture protection
Water and electricity are dangerous combinations, especially in salty environments or rain, the basic requirement for wiring on an inflatable boat is that all connections are completely sealed, and the use of conventional insulation is unacceptable, since it will quickly unstuck from moisture and temperature changes.
For switching wires, it is best to use shrink-tube When heated, the glue melts and fills all the voids, creating a monolithic compound, and it is also recommended to use special sea terminals with a coating that prevents oxidation.
The cable should be laid so as to prevent rubbing on the side or sharp corners of the transom. The cable can be laid inside inflatable tubes (if the design allows) or fastened outside with special holders, but always with a margin of length, so that when blowing the boat the wire does not stretch.
☑️ Checking electrical wiring
⚠️ Warning: Be sure to set the fuse as close to the battery as possible, which will protect the wiring from fire in the event of a short circuit that may occur if the insulation is damaged.
Power supplies: batteries and controllers
The autonomy of the lighting system depends on the chosen power source. Standard starter batteries are not designed for long-term return of low-power current, so it is better to use lighting for lighting. traction-carrying (AGM or GEL) or lithium-iron-phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries.
To control the brightness and modes of operation of LEDs are often used dimmer They allow you to adjust the intensity of the glow, saving battery power when full light is not required, and modern controllers can have remote control or control via a smartphone.
When calculating the battery capacity, you need to sum up the consumption of all devices. For example, if the total lighting power is 20 watts and the voltage is 12 volts, then the consumption current will be about 1.7 Amps. A battery with a capacity of 50 Ah will last about 25-28 hours of continuous operation, which exceeds the needs of even long expeditions.
| Type of AKB | Duration of service (cycles) | Weight. | Price. |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead-acid | 300-500 | Heavy. | Low. |
| AGM / GEL | 500-800 | Medium. | Medium |
| LiFePO4 | 2000+ | Light. | High. |
Installation of lamps on board and transom
Installing lights on an inflatable boat requires creativity, as drilling cylinders is strongly discouraged. flat-plate plastic or composite, which are glued to PVC with a special glue (for example, two-component polyurethane).
The lamps are already attached to these platforms. For the transom board (if it is plywood or dural), you can use through installation with mandatory sealing of the hole with silicone. It is important that the housing of the lamp has a protection class not lower than the level of the security. IP67, and ideally IP68.
When mounted on board, use soft attachments or Velcro straps if the weight of the luminaire allows. Hard fixation with metal clamps can damage the balloon when the boat moves along the wave. All corners and edges of the fasteners should be rounded.
How to check the tightness of the glue?
After the platform is glued, let the glue dry for 24 hours. Then pump the boat and smother the gluing site with soap solution, and the absence of bubbles after 15-20 minutes indicates high-quality sealing.
Safety regulations and navigation lights
When installing additional lighting, the rules of navigation (MPSS-72) must not be forgotten: your lights must not mimic navigation (red-left, green-right, white-stern/nose) in such a way as to mislead other boatmasters.
The brightness of the working light should be directed downward into the cockpit and should not shine upwards or in sides above eye level, so as not to blind oncoming boats. Navigation lights are an essential element of equipment when driving in the dark and must be installed at a height that ensures their visibility.
Check the wiring status regularly before each exit, salt, ultraviolet light and mechanical loads quickly wear out the insulation. If you notice darkening of the contacts or oxidation, immediately replace the element.
Use silicone lubricant to treat connectors and contacts before assembly, which pushes water out and prevents metal corrosion, greatly extending the life of the electrician.
Safety on the water is paramount: the right lighting makes you visible to others and safe for yourself, preventing collisions and injuries.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can I use car LED strips for a boat?
Car belts are often low-grade waterproof (IP20-IP44) and are not designed for aggressive environments. sea-ribbon with silicone pouring and IP68 class.
Which wire is better used for installation?
The optimal choice is a multi-core copper wire in double insulation, resistant to oil and water. The cross section should correspond to the load current, usually 1.5 mm2 is enough for lighting, but for long sections it is better to take 2.5 mm2 to avoid a voltage drop.
Do I need to take off the battery for the winter?
Yes, it is. Lead acid batteries cannot be stored in cold, because the electrolyte can freeze and destroy the body, and lithium batteries also require storage at room temperature with a charge of about 50-60%.
How to protect lights from shocks during transportation?
Use removable structures or protective metal mesh (grills) on top of the plafonds, and you can also use soft neoprene covers that are easy to remove before use.