The operation of any boat, whether modest PVC Or a full-fledged boat, which requires not only motor control, but also navigational control, and that's why owners often choose to put a dashboard in the boat to systematize control and protect expensive electronics from splashes and impacts. A well-organized steering desk improves not only comfort, but also safety on the water, allowing them to quickly read the sounder, GPS navigator and tachometer.

The process of creating and installing such a structure requires careful planning, as the materials must be resistant to aggressive environments, and the attachment must withstand vibrations and impact loads. In this article, we will discuss in detail all the steps from choosing the right material and place to install to the final sealing of the wiring, you will learn how to avoid the typical mistakes that beginners face when independently tuning their vessel.

⚠️ Warning: Any work on electrical equipment on water should only be carried out with the battery completely disconnected. Sparks in the vapors of gasoline can lead to an explosion, so always check the tightness of the fuel system before wiring.

Selection of material and design of the instrument panel

The first step in creating a quality workplace is to choose the material that will serve as the basis, traditionally using marine plywood, which is highly moisture-resistant and durable, but requires high-quality finishing. ACM (aluminum composite material) that does not rot and is easier to mold.

If you are planning to create dashboard from plywood, make sure it has a FC or FSF marking, where the number of layers of veneer is at least five. The thickness of the material should be from 10 to 15 mm to ensure the rigidity of the structure and the possibility of hidden installation of fasteners. Aluminum sheets 2-3 mm thick are also popular, especially for boats where lightness and corrosion resistance without additional impregnation are important.

Comparison of materials for the panel

Plywood is cheaper and easier to work, but requires protection. Aluminum is longer-lasting, lighter and not afraid of water, but harder to cut and more expensive.

The panel can be designed as a single panel mounted on a transom or a side, or as a modular system with rotary brackets. It is important to consider ergonomics: the instruments must be read without having to tilt or change the position of the body. Often a combination of materials is used, where the base is made of plywood, and the front part is lined with plastic or carbon film to protect against ultraviolet light.

  • 🌊 Sea plywood - a classic choice that requires impregnation with epoxy soil.
  • ⚙️ Aluminum leaf Ideal for metal boats and boats, does not rust.
  • 🛡️ ABS plastic It is light and moisture resistant, but it can burn out in the sun.
  • 🧱 Composite panels are a modern material that combines lightness and strength of metal.

Planning of appliance placement and ergonomics

Before you start cutting holes, you need to clearly define what equipment will be installed. The standard set includes a tachometer, fuel level indicator, voltmeter and navigation devices such as a sonar or cartplotter. The placement should be logical: the most important instruments for controlling the motor (see below).tachometerThe temperature indicator is located in the line of sight of the steering, usually in the center or left.

Navigation screens require special attention to the angle of view and protection from glare. If you use a touch screen, make sure that it can be reached without getting out of the seat, but it should not interfere with the control of the tiller or gas. The space around the instruments should be enough to lay the wire harnesses at the rear, so as not to create unnecessary pressure on the connectors.

📊 What is most important to you in the dashboard?
Compactness
Capacity
Aesthetics
Price of materials

When designing, please note that some devices, for example, sonar With large screens, there may be specific distance requirements for metal objects, if the panel is metal, you may need to take the GPS antenna to the roof or the mast, and there is room for potential extensions, such as radio stations or additional sensors in the future.

  • 👁️ Put the motor control devices at eye level for quick reading.
  • 📱 Place navigation screens so that direct sunlight does not fall on them.
  • 🔌 Leave access from the back of the panel to service the connectors.
  • 📏 Keep the distance between the holes recommended by the manufacturers of the devices.

Necessary tools and workplace preparation

To implement the project in a high-quality manner, you need a set of specialized tools: the main tool for cutting plywood or plastic will be an electrojigsaw with saws for clean cutting, and for metal - a metal scissors or a Bulgarian with a thin disk. To make the holes for the devices perfectly round and smooth, an indispensable assistant will be a crowned drill (fres) of the right diameter.

In addition to cutting tools, you need to have a good chemistry, you need epoxy, fiberglass and varnish to work with wood panels, you need a degreaser and soil for metal surfaces, and you need electric tools like a soldering iron, shrinkage, screeds and a multimeter to check the chains.

Tool list:

1. Electric jigsaw or circular saw

Set of wood/metal crowns

3. Shoulder drill

Sandpaper (grain 80, 120, 240)

5. Brushes and varnish rollers

Preparation of the workplace is also critical: the surface should be smooth, clean and well lit. When working with varnishes and resins, ensure good ventilation of the room. All measurements are made with millimeter accuracy using a metal ruler and a coal mine, as an error in the marking can lead to damage of expensive material.

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Use paint tape on the front of the material when cutting - this will help to avoid chipping and scratching, and also allow you to make markings directly on the tape without soiling the material.

Step-by-step instructions for the manufacture of the panel

The fabrication process begins with creating a template. Take a dense cardboard or a wattman and draw a life-size outline of the future panel, considering the geometry of the transom or the side of your boat. Cut the template and try it on the boat, checking the viewing angles and ease of access to the control levers. Only after approval of the template, transfer the outlines to the main material.

Once you cut the base, drill the holes for the instruments. Use crowned drills, drill the center hole first. If you work with plywood, the edges of the holes after cutting must be carefully grounded and covered with a layer of epoxy soil to prevent the veneer from being decomposed of moisture. For metal panels, the edges of the holes are also treated to remove the burrs.

☑️ Checklist of manufacture

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The finish depends on the material chosen. The wood panel is usually coated with several layers of yacht lacquer or pasted with self-adhesive film under carbon or wood. Metal surfaces are painted with powder paint or car enamel, which gives a durable and durable coating. It is important to let each layer dry completely before applying the next one.

Installation of electrical wiring and sealing

The electrical part is the nervous system of your panel. All connections must be made reliably, using soldering and high-quality insulation. The twists in vibration and humidity on the water quickly oxidize and begin to warm, so use this. shrink-tube It's a glue layer to seal the contacts, and it's better to put the wires in corrugated hoses or cable channels.

The connection of the appliances often requires a branching of the power, use special sea terminals or junction boxes that are protected from water. Each circuit should be protected by a personal fuse, the value of which corresponds to the current consumed by the device, which will avoid failure of the entire system when short circuit in one of the nodes.

Dashboard. Consumption (A) Wire cross-section (mm2) Fuse denomination (A)
Echoer/GPS 0.5 - 1.0 0.75 - 1.0 2
Tachometer 0.2 0.5 1
Illumination of the panel 1.0 - 2.0 1.0 - 1.5 3
Radio (transmission) 5.0 - 10.0 2.5 - 4.0 10-15

Sealing the wires into the panel housing is a must, and use rubber bushings or special sealants to fill the voids around the cable, and this will prevent water from leaking into the structure, which is especially true for PVC boats where water can accumulate on the bottom and splash on the tray.

⚠️ Warning: Never use a regular silicone sealant to fix the appliances in the panel openings if you ever plan to remove them. Silicone sticks the plastic and metal firmly, and dismantling without damaging the case will be impossible. Use special removable sealants or rubber sealants.

Fixing the panel to the boat hull

The way the boat is attached depends on the type of boat and the transom material. Inflatable boats are most often used brackets that are fixed in stringer pockets or attached to the hard transom through special holes. It is important that the mount is rigid and has no backlash, as constant vibration can lead to cracks in the plastic of the appliances or the destruction of the panel itself.

If you are installing a panel on a metal boat, use stainless bolts or aluminum rivets. Before drilling holes in the hull, make sure that there are no power elements on the back of the side or transom that can be damaged. All holes in the hull of the boat must be treated with anticort and sealed.

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The rigidity of the panel attachment directly affects the life of the devices: strong vibration destroys the soldering inside the electronics and loosens the mechanical pointers.

For temporary structures or boats where you can not drill a transom, there are solutions with suction cups or clamping mechanisms. Raymarine or GarminHard bolt mounting is preferable, ensure that the bolt hats on the inside do not interfere with or injure passengers.

  • 🔩 Use only stainless steel (A2, A4) or anodized aluminum for fasteners.
  • 🛡️ Apply vibrator (rubber pads) between the panel and the boat hull.
  • 🌊 Seal all entry points of the fastener into the boat hull.
  • 🔍 Regularly check the tightening of the bolts after the first 5-10 hours of operation.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I use regular plywood for the dashboard?

Technically possible, but the life of such a panel will be extremely low: ordinary plywood quickly absorbs moisture, swells and layers. Be sure to use moisture-resistant plywood (FC, FSF) and high-quality epoxy impregnation on all sides, including the ends.

How to protect the screen from glare in the sun?

The best way is to put a visor over the dashboard, and also help with anti-reflective films that are glued to the screen, and the correct positioning of the instruments at an angle that excludes direct reflected light from the water.

Do I need to ground the dashboard on a metal boat?

Yes, if it is a galvanic junction, the metal panel case, if it is connected to the "minus" of the onboard network, must be reliably grounded on the boat hull to avoid electrochemical corrosion and interference with sensitive electronics.

What is the maximum weight that a standard PVC transcoat can withstand?

The standard hard transom usually supports the engine weight specified in the boat data sheet. the additional weight of the panel (5-10 kg) is usually not critical, but the load should be distributed evenly so as not to disturb the differentiation and overload one side.