Control of the boat with the help of a hummel gives a feeling of complete control, but with the growth of engine power or the desire to install a comfortable remote, this option becomes uncomfortable. Reworking the outboard motor for a distance It's not just a pen replacement, it's a complex engineering challenge that requires an understanding of mechanics and electricals, and many owners of older or budget models are facing the need to upgrade to improve safety and comfort on the water.
The transformation process involves installing a cable control of the gas and reverse, and also the output of the electrical circuit on the rotary ignition key, which allows you to control the vessel with one hand or completely release the humming device for navigation through the instruments. It is important to understand that interference with the design of the engine can affect the warranty, so all work should be carried out with maximum accuracy and compliance with technical standards.
In this article, we will discuss in detail the stages of preparation, selection of components and direct installation of the system. You will learn how to avoid common errors when laying cables and connecting electricians. modernization extend the service life of the unit and make the management of the boat really comfortable.
Assessment of the need for alterations and selection of components
Before you start disassembling the engine, you need to clearly define the type of system you install. The market offers many solutions, from universal Chinese kits to original parts from the mainframe. Yamaha or MercuryUniversal kits are often cheaper, but may require reworking seats or not have proper smoothness.
The key element is the control mechanism itself (machine), which should provide a clear fixation of the position of the handle of the gas and reverse, cheap analogues can slug, which on the water feels like a “cotton” control, and pay attention to the length of the cables: standard sets are often 3 meters long, which may not be enough for large boats.
- 🔧 Management mechanism: Choose models with a metal body and high-quality slip bearings.
- 🔌 Set of cables: necessarily the presence of cables for gas and reverse, preferably with a Teflon braid inside.
- 🔑 Ignition lock box: It must be airtight (IP67 and above) and have a built-in emergency engine stop.
- 📡 Burning wires: Check the cross-section of the wires, it should correspond to the starter current and the charging system.
⚠️ Note: When choosing a universal kit, make sure that the threaded connections of the cables match the threads on the carburetor or throttle of your engine. The mismatch of the thread pitch will make adjustment impossible.
Dismantling of the tiller group and engine preparation
The beginning of work always involves dismantling the regular roumple, a process that requires carefulness, because under the plastic casings are often hidden thin tractions and plastic locks, the first thing you need to do is disconnect the electrical connectors that go to the stop button and the throttle position sensor, if it is designed.
After removing the casing, access to carburettor At this point, it's important to take a picture of the starting position of all the thrusts and springs, which will help not only with the reverse assembly, but also with the debugging of the new system, and often the rummel is attached to several bolts that can be hidden under decorative plugs.
If you have a two-stroke engine, pay special attention to the gas cable, which can be integrated into the overall traction system, and four-stroke motors often use a separate servo or cable throttle. Dismantling It should be carried out without the use of excessive force, so as not to break the plastic elements of the carburetor.
Nuances of dismantling old engines
On motors older than 10 years, plastic elements can be fragile. Before unscrewing, it is recommended to heat the plastic with a hair dryer or treat the mounting areas with penetrating lubrication to avoid chipping and cracking.
Installation of the control mechanism and the laying of cables
The control machine is usually mounted on board the boat or on a special bracket, the main requirement is rigid fixation. Any vibrations of the boat hull should not be transmitted to the mechanism, causing a spontaneous change in speed. Once the hull is fixed, the most important step begins - the laying of the cables.
The cables should be guided along the shortest path, avoiding sharp corners and places of possible friction. The radius of the bend of the cable should not be less than the permissible value specified in the instructions (usually at least 15-20 cm).
To protect against moisture and mechanical damage, cables are recommended to be placed in a corrugated hose or cable channel, especially in the passageway over the side. At the point of entry into the engine, you need to ensure tightness using special rubber cuffs or sealants for marine equipment.
☑️ Checking the cables
Connection to the carburetor and reducer
Connection of the gas cable to carburettor The lever on the carburetor must be free at the beginning and end of the control handle movement, so that when fully released, the throttle is closed and 100% open when fully operated.
The reverse cable connects to the gearshift mechanism in lower unit, and it's critical to set the timing of the gear switch, and if the cable is pulled too tight, the gears may or may not be turned on with a stroke, causing the gears to slip, and if the gears are too weak, the cable will not allow the gear to turn on at all.
You can adjust these tips with threads, twist them or twist them, you can change the effective length of the cable, after the initial setup, you need to switch gears several times and check the throttle for hearing and visually.
| Parameter | Normal value. | Sign of error | Action. |
|---|---|---|---|
| Free flow of gas | 2-5 mm | Engine's dead on singles. | Weaken the cable |
| Reverse move | All the way. | No neutralization or transmission | Adjust the tip |
| Shell tension | Without sagging. | Engine reaction delay | Pull up the lock. |
| Corner angle | > 15 cm | Heavy hilt move | Move the track |
⚠️ Warning: Incorrectly adjusting the reverse cable can cause the gear to turn on when the engine is running with a sharp jerk of the boat. Always check the reverse on the shore, holding the handle firmly.
Electrical circuit and installation of the ignition lock
The electrical part of the reworking includes the installation of the ignition lock with the emergency stop button and the output of signal lamps (optional). The standard scheme for most engines includes starter circuits, charging and "mass" for engine jamming. The color marking of wires may differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, so the presence of the presence of the following: circuitry A specific motor is required.
Wires should be protected from water and short circuits. All connections are recommended by soldering and insulated with thermal shrink tubes. Screws in vibration and moisture on the boat quickly oxidize and can cause engine failure at the most inopportune time.
The kill switch must be connected to break the ignition circuit when pulling the checks, a critical safety feature. Check the system: when the check is drawn, the starter must not spin, and the engine must stop working.
Use a silicone-insulated polycore copper wire that is more resistant to vibration and low temperatures than standard PVC and does not tan in the cold.
Setup, Testing and Security
The final step is a comprehensive test, and the engine starts and warms up at idle speed, which is to check the stability of the operation and the absence of vibrations on the cables, then check the reaction to the addition of gas and switch the reverse.
Notice the force required to move the control handle. It should be uniform throughout the course. If you need a force at certain points, then the cable is clamped somewhere or has a defect in the inner braid. Smoothness of course - the guarantee of comfortable management.
The emergency stop system is also checked, and pulling the checks at full speed (short-term) should cause the engine to immediately shut down, and after checking the check, it returns to its place, and the engine starts again.
A well-designed reworking for the distance should not impair the driving performance of the engine. Any loss of power or unstable work indicates errors in the setting of the gas-reverse cables.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can you set the distance to the engine without a separate generator?
If the motor doesn't have a separate generator to charge the battery, the ignition system will be magneto-powered, but the starter and the electrical equipment will still require a battery that needs to be charged from an external source.
What length of cables to choose for a boat with a length of 4 meters?
For a boat with a length of 4 meters, cables of 3 meters are usually enough. However, it is better to measure the distance from the place of installation of the "machine" to the engine taking into account all the bends and add a margin of 30-50 cm.
Should I change the carburetor when setting the distance?
In most cases, the replacement of the carburetor is not required. The regular carburetor adapts to the cable control by properly adjusting the thrusts. Replacement may only be required if the regular carburetor is faulty or has no ability to connect the cable.
Is it hard to get it all back to the romp?
If you haven't made any permanent changes to the design (for example, you haven't drilled new holes in lower unit), it's easy enough to get it back, just disconnect the cables and put the regular tiller in place, if all the parts are saved.