The transition from manual control of the outboard motor to remote control is a step that sooner or later is considered by every owner of a small vessel who wants to improve comfort and safety on the water. The tiller scheme, for all its simplicity and reliability, has a number of undeniable disadvantages: the need to constantly be at the transom, the inability to fully view the boat in front and increased fatigue during long transitions.
The modernization process affects not only the mechanical part associated with the turn of the lower unit, but also the throttle control system, as well as, in some cases, the electrical circuitry for starting and emergency stopping the engine. remote-control It allows you to place the remote control in any convenient point of the cockpit, whether it is the bow deck or the center post, which is especially important for trolling fishing or when driving in difficult weather conditions. It is important to understand that even the most budgetary engine can be adapted to your needs, if you approach the question with technical literacy.
Analysis of the construct and selection of components
Before starting any work, you need to study the device of your particular engine in detail. Not all models are originally designed with the ability to easily install remote control, although most modern brands such as the one that is the most popular in the world. Yamaha, Tohatsu or HideaThe first step is to determine the type of attachment of the gas cable and the steering cable on the lower unit and cylinder block. In some cases, you will need to purchase a special transition unit, which is often in the factory configuration as an option.
Special attention should be paid to the choice of cables themselves. Mechanical control systems come in two main types: push and pull. For reworking, the most common is universal cables that work for stretching and compression, which makes it easier to install. The cable is selected with a margin to prevent tension in any position of the tube and the gas-reverse lever. lower unit-line, which should be as close as possible to the axis of rotation to minimize the backlash and ensure accuracy of control.
If your motor is equipped with electronic throttle control (ETC), the process is much more complicated and requires interference with electronic control units, which is not always advisable for older models. In the classic mechanical version, you will need to install a control console that will transmit the force to the cables. When choosing a console, make sure that it is compatible with the type of your motor, especially if it is a specific reverse system.
Mechanical improvement of the gas and reverse system
The most time-consuming part of the reworking is to organize the force transfer from the remote control lever to the carburetor or injection unit. In the tiller version, this path is short and straight, but when you remove the control post, it turns into a complex trajectory. You will need to carefully lay the cable along the side or under the deck, avoiding sharp curves with a radius of less than 15-20 cm, as this will lead to rapid wear of the inner vein and jamming of the mechanism.
The automatic transmission is usually removed and the drive mechanism is installed to fix the gas-reverse cable on the engine. If a standard set for reworking is not available, water motors often use universal hinge connections. It is important to ensure that the gear lever is free to move so that it clearly fixes the forward, neutral and back positions.
β οΈ Attention: Incorrect adjustment of the gearshift cable can lead to the fact that the engine will not enter the full power mode or, even more dangerous, will not be able to leave the reverse mode, which is fraught with breakage of gears of the gears of the gear.
After installation, you need to run a series of test switches on land, the remote control lever should have clear clicks when switching, and the rope should not require excessive effort. If you feel resistance, check the cable track for twisting or touching the sharp edges of the body.
βοΈ Checking control mechanics
Installation of the steering at lower unit
The direction control (course) is done by turning the lower unit. In a tiller circuit, you turn the handle and the motor follows it. When you set up the remote control, the cable must pull or push a special lever attached to the rotary mechanism of the motor. It is extremely important to observe the symmetry: the cable's path to the left and right must be exactly the same so that the angles of the steering pen (or the lower unit itself) are symmetrical relative to the diametrical plane.
The cable attachment to the lower unit is carried out through special eyelets or clamps, if in the design of your motor, for example, a popular one. Mercury or SuzukiThere's no regular hole, you can drill it, but only in thickened parts of the bracket, avoiding stress zones. Once you install the cable, check if it touches the anti-cavitation plate or other protruding parts when you shift the steering wheel to a full angle.
One of the common problems with reworking is the emergence of backlash in the cable-dadewood connection. To correct this defect, use high-quality threaded wire tips and counternuts. The adjustment of the rope length is done by trial and error: first, you put the "neutral" and then fix the extreme positions.
Electrical circuit and emergency stop
The control system is also redesigned to include the transfer of the engine control controls, and the key safety element is the kill switch, which is on the handle in the rompel version, but which, when operated remotely, must be duplicated on the remote control and preferably on the engine itself, and which requires the extension of the emergency stop sensor wire, keeping polarity and wire cross-sections in mind.
If your motor has an electric starter, you'll need to supply power to the solenoid and the ignition lock, and you'll often use standard car relays and fuses to install them in a moisture-proof place, and you'll need to have a circuit that's short-circuit-proof, because vibration and saltwater splashes are the main enemies of the electricians on the boat.
| Component | Function | Installation requirements |
|---|---|---|
| Gas cable | Throttle control | Minimum radius of bending, protection against moisture |
| Reverse cable | Shifting | Hard fixation, lack of backlash |
| Steering cable | lower unit's turn | Symmetry of the course, protection against rubbing |
| Burning wires. | Launch and crash | Sealed compounds, current cross-section |
And remember, the tachometer and the temperature indicator, if the rumble motor didn't have them, when you redesign it for remote control, it makes sense to install a basic dashboard, so you can control the engine's operating modes without turning to the transom.
System assembly and initial configuration
When all the mechanical and electrical components are installed, there's a fine-tuning phase. Start by adjusting the gearshift cable. The lever on the console should have clearly defined positions. A failure to move the lever to the forward position will cause frictions to slip and overheat, and too tight a stroke can damage the mechanism.
The gas cable is then adjusted. It's important that when the engine throttle is fully opened, the lever on the remote reaches the stop, but does not pull the mechanism. If the motor does not develop full speed, then the gas cable is too long or not properly fixed. And vice versa, if the throttle does not open completely, the engine will not give up the passport power.
β οΈ Attention: When adjusting the cables, never use force to overcome resistance. If the mechanism is jammed, look for the reason in the geometry of the cable, rather than trying to push it through the lever.
The final step in setting up is to check the emergency stop system, pull a check on the remote, the engine should stall instantly, restore the circuit and try to start the engine again, all of which are better done when the boat is on the trailer or securely moored.
Testing and safety on water
The first time you're out after a rework should be quiet. You don't have to go straight to the top speed. Your job is to check the engine in all modes, from idle to average speed. Pay attention to the vibration of the tiller (if it's left as a backup) or the lower unit itself. A knock or a hum may indicate a tight steering cable.
Check the responsiveness of the motor to the gas-reverse commands. When you drop the gas sharply and turn back (at low speeds), the motor must react instantly. Delay in shifting gears on water is unacceptable, because in an emergency it can cost you to collision with an obstacle.
Be sure to bring a tiller or tool kit to quickly revert the system to its original state. Although modern cables are reliable, a break in the steering cable at full speed is critical, and you should be ready to manually control the engine in the event of a breakage of the remote system.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can any rample motor be remodeled to remote control?
Technically possible almost any motor, but the economic feasibility is only for models with a capacity of 5 hp For engines 2-3 hp it is easier to buy a new one with a DR. It is also important to have regular holes for mounting cables or the possibility of their safe organization.
What length of cables is best used for reworking?
The cables are individually tailored to the boat's layout, standard lengths of 3, 4.5 and 6 meters. It is better to take a cable with a margin of 30-50 cm, as it can always be laid with loops, but it is almost impossible to build a short cable without losing control quality.
Do I need to change the lower unit or redactor when reworking?
No, the bottom of the motor itself (dadewood, gearbox, screw) is not changed, only the top and control system are upgraded, the mechanical communication remains normal, only the way the force is transferred to the levers changes.
Is it difficult to get the engine back into control?
If you haven't drilled new holes in critical nodes and used the regular mounting locations, it's reversible. You just take the cables off, the console off and you put the hummingbird back in, so it's important to keep all the parts that you've removed intact.