Introduction to the world of comfortable navigation
Installation of the system remote-control The (DU) on the outboard motor is not just a matter of convenience, but also an important step towards improving safety on the water. The transition from the tiller control to a system where gas and gear shifts are carried to the panel into the cockpit allows the captain to better control the situation around the vessel, this is especially true for boats with a rigid hull or inflatable PVC boats longer than 4 meters, where the accommodation of passengers requires flexibility in handling.
The modernization process requires careful consideration of the selection of components and the adherence to the installation technology. Errors in the cable or electrical connection can lead to engine failure at the most inopportune moment or, worse, to an emergency. In this article, we will discuss in detail all the steps of work, from the choice of the type of drive to the final setting. throttle and shift mechanisms.
Modern motors, whether they are Yamaha, Tohatsu or MercuryThey often have plugs to connect the DR, which makes it easier. However, if you install the system on an old motor or change the type of control, you will have to manually adjust the thrusts and electrical circuits. A properly assembled system ensures smooth running and clear switching of driving modes.
Selection of type of remote control system
Before starting work, you need to decide on the type of system that will suit your vessel. The market offers two main options: mechanical control of cables and electronic (fly-by-wire). Mechanical systems are reliable, easy to repair and do not require complex electronics, but require the laying of rigid or flexible cables, which can be difficult on boats of complex shapes.
Electronic systems, by contrast, use thin wires instead of cables to send signals to the servos of the motor, which gives you incredible freedom in the position of the pump and no physical effort to switch. However, such systems are much more expensive, difficult to diagnose and require the appropriate interface on the engine itself. For most fans of classics and reliability, the best choice is the time-tested one. mechanical.
- 🔧 Mechanical cable systems (Cable control) - classics that require accurate adjustment of the length of the cables.
- ⚡ Fly-by-wire is a modern standard for powerful motors, providing maximum comfort.
- 🛡️ Hydraulic systems are a rare option, used mainly on large vessels with powerful propulsion systems.
When choosing a mechanic, consider the type of cables: they can be versatile (3300/33C) or specific to certain brands. It is important that the cables are as long as the transom to the place where the tiller is installed with a margin for bends. Using too short cables will make control impossible, and excessively long will lead to loss of sensitivity and the appearance of backlashes.
Necessary tools and components
You can't have a good installation without the right toolkit, you're going to need not only a standard set of wrenches, but you're going to need some specific electrical and metal tools, and you're going to need to pay special attention to wiring tools, because the marine environment is very aggressive to any contact.
The main element, besides the humming wheel itself, is the cable wire (control machine), make sure it's compatible with your motor. Yamaha or Suzuki They may require an additional adapter or even a replacement of the gear shifting unit inside the lower unit, and it is critical that quality sealing materials are available.
☑️ List of necessary tools and materials
Don't forget to prepare materials to protect against moisture. All electrical connections must be made using tinted copper tips and shrink tubes with adhesive layer. Conventional insulation in conditions of constant vibration and humidity will quickly become unusable, which will lead to oxidation of contacts and system failure.
⚠️ Warning: Never use aluminum wiring or tips in the motor control system. Aluminum-copper or aluminum-steel galvanic pair in salt water will create powerful electrolysis that will destroy contacts in one season.
Dismantling of the tiller control and preparation of the motor
The conversion process begins with the dismantling of the old tiller assembly. Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the battery to avoid short circuit. Remove the engine casing and find the mounting assembly of the tiller to the rotary throttle and gear shift mechanism.
On many motors, the hummel is connected to the machinery through thrusts or cables that need to be carefully disconnected. Often locking rings, bolts or splints are removed. Be careful with the return springs - they can quickly decompose. If your motor did not initially provide for the installation of the DR, it may be necessary to replace the assembly. carburetor or block of throttle valves on the version with the ability to connect cables.
Nuances of dismantling on two-stroke engines
Older two-stroke engines often have a direct mechanical connection between the ramper and the valve. When removing the throttle, make sure that the return spring is in good working order. If the spring is weakened, the motor may not reset when releasing the gas handle, which is extremely dangerous. Also check the condition of the gearshift cables inside the lower unit - when you switch to the throttle, the load on them will change.
After removing the hummel, the vacant place will be taken by the mechanism for connecting the cables of the SD. On some models of motors, for example, Tohatsu or MercuryThis is done using a special bracket that is screwed to the base of the bumper, so make sure that all fasteners are tightened with the recommended force, but not pulled to avoid breaking the thread in the aluminum case.
Installation of the hummel and cable laying
The installation of the hummel itself on board the boat is a critical step. The place should be chosen so that the control levers go freely without touching the sides, seats or other objects. The rummel is usually mounted with bolts through the side or on a special console. Under the bolts, be sure to use washers and sealants to prevent water from entering the hull of the boat.
For mechanical cables, the minimum bend radius is usually at least 15-20 cm. Sharp bends will lead to rapid wear of the inner vein and jamming of the mechanism. The cables should be attached to the elements of the boat structure with clamps every 40-50 cm, avoiding tension.
| Parameter | The gas cable (Throttle) | Shift cable | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Type of movement | Smooth, no jerks | Clear, fixed. | Gas requires precise calibration |
| Effort. | Low (spring return) | Medium (mechanical emphasis) | Check the force on the cold engine |
| Length | Strictly sized. | Strictly sized. | You can't build cables! |
| Tightness | High. | High. | The entrance to the engine must be closed. |
The cables are connected to the motor in reverse, the gas cable is connected to the carburetor valve, and the gear cable is connected to the reverse mechanism. It is important to adjust the length of the outer shell of the cable correctly. Adjustment is made by special nuts at the ends of the cables. When properly adjusted, the romple lever in neutral position should correspond to the neutral on the motor, and the full gas open the valve to the point.
Use copper lubricant for threaded cable connections at the engine entry points, which will prevent the adjustment nuts from clinging to the engine and make future maintenance easier by protecting against corrosion.
Electrical circuit and button connection
The electrical part of the SD connection includes the connection of the ignition circuits (to stop the engine), the neutral starter circuit (safety switch), and, if available, the trimming circuits. The most important part here is the safety system, which allows the engine to start only when the gear lever is in neutral.
You'll need to find the appropriate pins on the motor to connect, usually under the control unit lid or in a separate connector. The colors of the wires may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, so always check the wring diagram of the particular motor. Yamaha and Tohatsu often coincide, but Suzuki It might have its own specifications.
- 🔴 Red wire – usually goes to the kill switch.
- 🔵 Blue or black and white - a chain of neutral switch, without the closure of which the starter does not twist.
- 🟢 Green/Yellow – wires for connecting electric trimm (if any).
Connect the wires only soldered and then insulated with thermal shrinkage. Swings in the sea are unacceptable — they oxidize in a matter of weeks. After connecting all the wires, check the safety system: try to start the engine when the gear is on (the lever is not in neutral) — the starter should not react. If the motor starts, the circuit is assembled incorrectly, which is dangerous.
⚠️ Before the first start, be sure to check that when the lever of gas is sharply moved to the neutral, the valve of the carburetor really closes. Mechanical backlash of the cables can cause the motor to continue to operate at high revs even in the "neutral".
Adjustment, configuration and first start
The final step is fine-tuning the entire system. Mechanical cables have the ability to stretch or change geometry under load. Do a full check of the levers. The lever should move smoothly from idle to full gas, and the valve on the motor should open synchronously. If there is no full opening, the engine will not give maximum power.
Pay special attention to the gearshift mechanism. In the neutral position, the motor must operate steadily, without turning on the gear. When the lever moves forward, a clear click of the front gear switching should be heard, similar to the Reverse. If the switching is too tight or late, you need to adjust the length of the gear rope with nuts at the end.
A properly configured system provides an instantaneous response of the motor to the operator’s actions and guarantees safety thanks to the clear operation of the neutral start lock.
After mechanical adjustment, test the start on land (with cooling system connected!) and on water. Check all modes, including abrupt gas discharge and emergency switch to neutral. Make sure the cables do not rub against moving parts of the engine and do not heat up.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I install a DR on the engine without a native kit?
Yes, it is possible, but it will require the purchase of a universal set of DRs and possibly the replacement of the carburetor assembly or the engine block with the version with the ability to connect cables. For older motors, sometimes you have to make custom brackets.
How often should remote control cables be lubricated?
It is recommended to lubricate the cables and check their condition at least once in the navigation season, preferably before starting operation. If the boat is used in salt water, the check should be increased up to once a month.
What if the gas lever starts to run too tight?
Most likely, the cable is contaminated or rusted inside the shell. Try washing and lubricating it with a special lubricant (for example, WD-40 Specialist Silicone). If this does not help, the cable is better replaced, since jamming the gas on the water is dangerous.
Should I change the electrician when switching from a tiller to a DU?
Yes, you need to plug in the starter's neutral safety switch and the emergency stop button, and without the starter lock, the motor can try to start in gear, which will cause the boat to jerk abruptly.