Storing an attachment engine in the off-season or between rides is a question that sooner or later confronts every boater. Simply positioning a boat on the transom creates excessive pressure on the deidvile leg, which can lead to deformation of the glands and premature wear of the knots. That is why the right outboard stand becomes not just an accessory, but a necessity to extend the life of an expensive unit.
But there's no one-size-fits-all solution, because the size of the powertrains varies greatly depending on the manufacturer and the power. If you plan to build the stand yourself, you'll have to consider a lot of nuances, from the height of the dead-wheel leg to the type of attachment to the transom. Miscalculations can cause the motor to hang curved, creating a risk of falling and mechanical damage.
In this article, we will discuss in detail how to determine the optimal frame For your engine, what materials are best to use and how to avoid typical assembly errors, we will look at the design features for two-stroke and four-stroke models, and provide practical recommendations for creating a stable support yourself.
Criteria for the selection of support dimensions
The first thing you need to start designing or choosing a finished product is to measure the exact engine itself. The key is the distance from the mounting plane to the transom to the bottom edge of the dieville leg, which size determines the height of the central rack or bracket on which the motor will be based. Don't rely on standard values, because even within the same model range, the leg length may differ.
The second important aspect is centre Four-stroke engines are much heavier than their two-stroke counterparts of similar power, due to the oil crankcase and the more complex design of the valve mechanism. four-stroke engine It can overturn the structure at the slightest touch or gust of wind.
Always add a 5-10 cm height margin when calculating the vertical rack to be able to adjust the position of the motor when installing different screws or if there are additional equipment, for example, sonar sensors on the deidville leg.
If you use a screw with a large diameter or steps, the lower bar of the stand should be positioned so that the blades do not touch the floor or the ground, otherwise chips on the edges may be possible, which will require expensive editing or replacement.
- 📏 Measure the distance from the transom mounting bar to the lowest point of the screw.
- ⚖️ Weigh the motor or find its exact mass in the passport to calculate the load on the base.
- 🔧 Consider the presence of additional elements: a ramp, cables, sensors that can act beyond the dimensions of the body.
Typical dimensions for different power classes
Although each motor is different, there are averaged standards from which to build a universal stand. Low-power engines, which are in the class up to 5 hp, are characterized by a compact dayville leg. Usually the height from the transom board to the bottom section of the screw is about 500-600 mm.
The mid-range power class, which covers the range from 8 to 15 hp, requires a more serious approach. Here the length of the deadville leg often increases, and the weight grows disproportionately rapidly. For such units, the optimal height of the support varies between 700-800 mm. outboard dimensions In this category, they already create a significant lever when tilting.
Features of the long and short leg
The standard length of a deidville leg (S) is 15 inches (381 mm) from the anti-cavitation plate to the fastening surface of the transom. The long leg (L) is 20 inches (508 mm) In the manufacture of a long leg stand, be sure to increase the height of the central support, otherwise the screw will rest against the floor.
Powerful engines from 20 hp and up, especially four-stroke engines, are massive structures that can be as long as a meter in length and weigh more than 50-60 kg. They require reinforced frames with a wide base. Often for such purposes, they make not just vertical racks, but U- or H-shaped structures that allow the motor to be fixed in a strictly vertical position without the risk of stalling.
Below is a table of approximate dimensions that will help you navigate when designing:
| Power class (hp) | Support height (mm) | Base width (mm) | Recommended material |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2 - 5 hp. | 550 - 650 | 400 - 500 | Wood, profile pipe 20x20 |
| 8 - 15 hp. | 700 - 800 | 600 - 700 | Profile pipe 30x30, 40x20 |
| 20 to 30 hp. | 800 - 950 | 800 - 900 | Profile pipe 40x40, corner 50x50 |
| 40+bhp (four-stroke) | 900 - 1100 | 900 - 1000+ | Reinforced rolled metal, channel |
Materials for making DIY
Material choice has a direct impact on the longevity of the structure and its resistance to aggressive environments. Garage storage often involves temperature changes and humidity, so ordinary steel without protection quickly becomes rust. The most popular solution is the use of a profile pipe square or rectangular section, which provides excellent rigidity at minimum weight.
Wood is also often used to create temporary or seasonal stands. 50x50 mm or 50x70 mm beams can withstand considerable loads. However, wood is hygroscopic and can deform over time. If you choose this option, be sure to treat all surfaces with oliphide, varnish or special impregnation for outdoor work. Metal stand It is preferable for permanent use.
Welding is the best way to connect metallic structures. Bolt joints can weaken with vibration over time, although they allow you to disassemble the structure for transportation. If welding is not available, use high-strength 8.8 bolts and fix them with engrovers or anaerobic thread fixer. Plastic elements, such as large-diameter plumbing pipes, are only suitable for very light motors and are more decorative.
- 🛠️ Profile pipe 40x20 mm - the optimal balance of price and strength for engines up to 15 hp.
- 🪵 Dry pine or larch are the best wood species for street storage.
- 🔩 Stainless steel fasteners will protect against corrosion in the joints.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling the stand
The manufacturing process starts with drawing, and even a simple hand sketch can help you avoid sizing errors, cut a profile pipe or a timber according to your calculations, and for a standard 9.9 hp engine, you'll need two vertical struts, a crossbar to hold the transom plate, and a base that's either a rectangle or a square.
Gather the base. It should be as stable as possible. If you're making a wooden structure, use metal corners to reinforce the angles. For a metal frame, weld a rectangle from a 40 x 40 mm pipe. The short side of the rectangle will determine the depth of the stand and the long side will determine the width. It is recommended to make a base of at least 500 x 600 mm for medium-power motors.
☑️ Pre-assembly check
Set up vertical struts. These can be made as a "P" where the horizontal bar mimics the transom of the boat, and the height of this bar should correspond to the distance from the sole of the deidvile leg to the top edge of the transom plate of your vessel. Put a wooden bar on the crossbar that will directly contact the motor so as not to scratch the aluminum alloy.
⚠️ Attention: When welding metal structures, be safe. Sparks from welding can ignite the residue of fuel if the work is carried out in the garage. Be sure to use a protective mask and gloves, as the metal is heated to high temperatures.
The final step is painting and equipment. Metal parts are cleaned of rust, degrease and coat with a primer on the metal. Then apply 2-3 layers with alkyd or acrylic enamel. For wooden parts, use an antiseptic. You can add rubber linings to the points of contact with the motor to prevent slip and damage.
Features of storage of two-stroke and four-stroke engines
The difference in design dictates different storage requirements: Two-stroke engines are less demanding on the angle of inclination during storage, but they are not recommended to be kept in the upside down position for a long time without having to, and the main risk for them is the leakage of fuel mixture from the crankcase if you turn the engine incorrectly.
Four-stroke units are much more sensitive to position in space, and they have oil in their crankcase, which, when overturned, can get into the combustion chamber or into the air filter. Storage of the outboard motor The four-stroke type should be carried out strictly in a vertical position or on a special side (if the design provides for such a possibility and the oil is drained).
For four-stroke engines, it is critical to store the unit either strictly vertically or on a specific side according to the manufacturer's instructions so that the oil does not get into the cylinders and exhaust system.
In addition, four-stroke motors often have a water pump with a rubber impeller. Long-term storage in a compressed state (if the motor is on the propeller without a stand) can deform the pump blades. The correct stand lifts the dead-wing leg, removing the load from the rubber elements.
- 🛢️ two-stroke: less critical to the corner, but afraid of drying gums.
- 💧 four-stroke: require a strictly vertical position to avoid oil entering the HBC.
- 🌀 Impeller: The stand should relieve the lower part of the deidville leg from the load.
Common errors in calculating sizes
One of the most common mistakes is ignoring the height of the anti-cavitation plate. Many craftsmen measure the distance to the bottom of the screw, forgetting that the support often rests on the stove or the dead-wheel leg above the screw, which leads to the screw being too high or, conversely, rests on the floor, taking on the weight of the entire unit.
Another mistake is to save on the width of the base, to save material, they make a narrow base that can't withstand lateral blockage, long-dried leg motors have a high center of gravity, and if the base of the stand is narrower than 2/3 of the height of the support, the risk of overturning increases many times over. Stability of construction It's more important than saving on materials.
⚠️ Attention: Never use rotten wood or rusted metal with cracks to support, and sudden collapse of a support under the weight of a 50-pound motor can cause serious leg injuries and damage to the engine itself.
Also, the crank is often overlooked, and if the handle is long and protrudes far back, it can act as a lever to flip the entire structure when it is accidentally touched, and in such cases, it is recommended to provide an additional stop or hook to fix the crank in a vertical position.
Lifehack for compact storage
If you don't have enough space in the garage, make a wheel stand, which will allow you to easily move the motor to the wall or to the corner, but make sure you have wheel stoppers so that the structure doesn't leave at the most inopportune moment.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I store the motor just standing on the screw without a stand?
Short term, yes, but not recommended for long term storage, because the propeller is not designed to take the weight of the entire engine, which can cause it to deform, and it puts stress on the dead-wheel leg and the omentum, and it also makes the motor unstable.
What is the angle of inclination of op required for draining water?
To drain water completely from the cooling system, the motor is usually vertical. If the stand design involves storage at an angle, make sure that the drainage holes are located at the bottom point. For four-stroke motors, vertical position is a requirement of most manufacturers.
Do I need to lubricate the contact points of the motor and the stand?
Yes, the points of contact between the aluminum parts of the motor and the metal stand are better to be rubber-laced or lubricated with a consistent lubricant, which will prevent electrochemical corrosion (galvanic pair) and the appearance of hard-to-remove oxides on the engine body.
Will a wooden stand be suitable for a powerful 50 hp engine?
Only if a powerful timber (at least 100 x 100 mm) is used and the structure has triangular reinforcing scarves. However, for such heavynesses, metal (a 50 x 50 mm profile pipe or channeler) is a much more reliable and durable solution that eliminates rot and drying.