Going out on the water is always an event, but for many hydraulic motorists, the moment of returning to land becomes a stressful situation. trailering It can cause damage to the hull, time loss, and even injury, and service center statistics show that a significant proportion of microcracks and dents on the transom are caused by lifting the boat out of the water.
There are several proven methods of putting a vessel on a platform, each of which has its advantages depending on the design of the berth, the type of boat and the experience of the operator. In this article, we will discuss the technical nuances of the process, the necessary accessories and algorithms of actions that will help you avoid common mistakes. Proper preparation and knowledge of the physics of the process will make completing a fishing or walk as pleasant as the trip itself.
The safety and security of your boat or PVC boats It depends on how well you've prepared for the maneuver, and ignoring simple rules like checking the winch or the angle of entry can be expensive to repair, and let's look at how to turn this routine into a well-established procedure.
Selection and preparation of loading equipment
The foundation of a successful operation is well-chosen equipment. trailerFor light inflatable models, a simple lobe or keel trailer is sufficient, whereas heavy aluminum or fiberglass boats require a reinforced frame with adjustable bow support.
The second critical element is the winch, which can be manual or electric. For boats longer than 5 meters, it is highly recommended to use an electric swab with a pulling force of at least 300 kg.Hand-wrapped under slippery bottoms and wet clothing can be physically exhausting and dangerous. Hand-held mechanisms are suitable for compact boats where weight allows you to cope with the load without undue effort.
And there are auxiliary elements, such as guides on the racks, which help to center the vessel as it rises and prevent the side from slipping, and also a quality cable or sling that should not have scuffs or knots.
- 🛟 Winch (manual or electric) with a margin of safety
- 🛟 Guide rinks or rollers for centering
- 🛟 Reliable cable with carbine for fixation
- 🛟 A sleeve (sleeve) with a sleeve.
Before each season, you need to have a review of all the mechanisms, lubricate the moving parts of the winch, check the tightening of the bolts on the trailer frame and make sure that the rubber elements of the supports do not dry out. Lack of maintenance can lead to equipment failure at the most inopportune moment.
Lubricate the winch cable with silicone lubrication before each season - this will prevent corrosion and coils from catching inside the drum.
Recovery methods: reverse against dump truck
There are two main ways to get a boat on a platform: the classic reverse with a winch and the dump truck method. The choice of method depends on the type of trailer you have and the conditions on the descent. The classic method requires more time and parking skills, but is safe for most types of trailers.
The dump truck method, or roll-on, is only possible on special trailers with a hydraulic or mechanical tilt of the bed, in which case the back of the trailer is immersed deep in the water, the boat is started on it, and then the bed returns to a horizontal position, pulling the vessel out. This is faster, but requires a deep and gentle descent.
When using the winch (reverse) method, it is important to observe the angle. If you go too deep, water can flood the trunk of the car. If too shallow, you will have to drag the boat down the bottom for a long time, damaging the body. The ideal depth of immersion of the rear axle of the trailer allows the wheels to stay on the surface or slightly touch the water, providing a grip.
Step by step: Classic loading
So let's look at the algorithm for the most common scenario, which is reverse-loading, which is universal and applies 90 percent of the time. First, drive up to the water and see if there's current, there's wind, there's slippery ramp. Lock the car on the handbrake.
Untie the trailer's safety cable from the car if it's been secured, and remove the locking devices from the wheels. Carefully back up, controlling the trailer's position through mirrors or with an assistant. Stop when the rear wheels are at the water's edge and the ramp goes underwater at the optimal angle for the boat to enter.
Go to the bow of the boat and release the bow support, connect the winch carbine to the snag on the bow of the boat. tether Now, slowly pick a slack, pulling the boat up to the keelblock, and if the boat is flat, you can turn the handle of the winch more actively, making sure that the keel gets into the central chute.
☑️ Algorithm of actions during loading
When the bow of the boat rests in the kilblock, keep turning the winch until the front of the vessel rises and lies firmly on the point, at which point the back of the boat should start to surface or already lie on the beds. It is important not to pull the winch, so as not to damage the tray or mechanism.
Safety Techniques and Common Errors
Loading safety violations are the main cause of water incidents, and the most common mistake is jumping on board or a transom to guide the boat, which is strictly forbidden: slippery aluminum or PVC, combined with the movement of the boat, often lead to falls in the water or under the trailer.
Another critical mistake is weather ignition, where strong side winds can blow a light boat away from the guides, causing it to hit the trailer frame, and in such conditions, you need to use additional mooring ends or call in a second person to hold the boat overboard while standing on the shore.
⚠️ Attention: Never leave your car unattended on the ramp if the boat is not already fixed. In the event of brake failure or winch failure, the boat can roll into the water with the trailer, dragging the car along with it.
Also often forgotten about drain plugs. Before loading, make sure that the corks in the boat floor (if any and available) are open to the water glass, or vice versa, closed if you plan to pump water already on the shore, but then consider the additional weight. For inflatable boats, it is important not to drag them over gravel or shell when lifting - these are guaranteed cuts.
Using inappropriate clothing reduces adhesion to the surface. Special shoes with non-slip soles (for example, neoprene bootsThe usual wet aluminium sneakers are turned into skates.
Fixing the boat and preparing for transportation
Once the boat has taken its place, it needs to be securely secured. The first step is to attach the nose belt. It has to be pulled so that it is difficult to attach it, but not so hard to deform the kilblock. Then secure the safety chain or cable from the trailer to the boat's rim, which is your insurance against a break in the winch belt.
Then you fix the stern. Use transom straps that are thrown over the sides and attached to the frame of the trailer. They will prevent the boat from moving left-right and bouncing on the roughness of the road. For inflatable boats, it is better to put soft pads under the belts so that the cylinders do not damage.
| Fixing element | Appointment | Frequency of verification |
|---|---|---|
| Nasal belt | The main retention from forward displacement | Every 50 km of travel |
| Insurance cable | Duplicate security system | Before every trip |
| Tranza straps | Lateral displacement fixation | After the first stop |
| Airside stops | Rock protection | Annually (seasonally) |
Remember to remove removable equipment: mounted motor, gas tank, anchor. The motor should be transported in an upright position or on a special stand so that oil does not fall into the cylinder, and the lower unit does not get damaged. It is better to remove the gas tank and attach it separately in the trunk so that fuel vapors do not accumulate under the awning.
Proper fixation of the boat requires the use of at least three mounting points: a nose belt, a safety cable and aft straps.
Carrying the trailer after going out on salt water
If you're a seafarer or a saltwater fisherman, the maintenance of the trailer becomes a matter of metal survival, and salt causes instant and aggressive corrosion, especially in welds and winch cable joints.
Immediately after returning home, thoroughly wash the trailer with fresh water under pressure, pay special attention to the hubs of the wheels, the brakes (if any) and the winch cable itself, it is recommended to soak the cable in fresh water for several hours to wash the salt from the internal structure.
⚠️ Attention: The salt left on the winch cable causes it to break from the inside at the most inopportune moment, and visually, an entire cable can burst under load if it has been eaten by rust.
Check the hub bearings once a season. Take off the caps and sway the wheel. Luft or hum indicate the need for lubrication or replacement of bearings. Using greases that are resistant to water washing (for example, lithium complexes) will prolong the life of the chassis.
How do you extend the life of bearings?
For maximum protection of bearings from water, you can use the E-Z Lube system (lubrication through the syringe without disassembly) or fully sealed hubs, although the latter require professional replacement of the osteoils.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do I need to remove the engine before loading the boat on the trailer?
In most cases, you can leave the motor on the transom if the trailer's design and the weight of the boat allows it. However, if you have a heavy four-stroke engine or a long lower unit leg, it's best to take it off to balance the trailer and reduce the load on the transom during transportation. For inflatable boats, the engine is almost always removed.
What if the boat slipped off the guides?
Don't panic or try to jump on the boat. If you have the opportunity, push it with a tank or mooring end to the shore. If the boat has gone deep, the help of a second person on the boat or using a long bumper. The main thing is not to risk your life for the sake of technology.
How often should I change the squirrel?
The cable should be changed when visible damage occurs: villiance, rust, bends or if it stretched and stopped tightly wounding the drum. On average, with active use and proper care, steel cable lasts 3-5 years, synthetic cable - up to 7 years, but requires a more careful attitude to friction.
Can WD-40 be used to lubricate the winch?
WD-40 is great for displacing moisture and cleaning the mechanism, but it is not a long-term lubricant. After processing WD-40 and drying, you need to apply a special consistency lubricant for winches or lithium lubricant that will remain on the parts and will work.