Secrecy on the water is not just the whim of an avid fisherman or hunter, but often a necessary condition for successful fishing for cautious fish or sneaking up on game.
The bright colors of standard factory boats, such as gray or salad, can unmask a boat hundreds of meters away, especially in autumnal yellowing grass or against a background of dark water.
That is why painting a boat in camouflage becomes one of the most popular types of tuning, allowing the vessel to literally dissolve in the landscape.
However, working with polyvinyl chloride (PVC) requires strict adherence to technology, since ordinary paint will simply crack and peel after the first operation.
Selection of suitable materials for PVC
The first and most critical stage is the correct selection of paint materials. Polyvinyl chloride - the material is specific, it has high elasticity and chemical inertness, so most standard enamels will not be able to catch on its surface.
Using inappropriate formulations will cause the coating to crack immediately after pumping the cylinders and bending the material. To work with inflatable structures, there are specialized polyurethane-based paints that become elastic after polymerization.
One of the most well-established on the market is the paint. Kaiflex or TexacoThese materials penetrate the fabric structure, creating a monolithic coating that is not afraid of salt water, gasoline and constant friction against the sand.
Buy paint and solvent from the same manufacturer. Mixing components from different brands often leads to a chemical reaction that may curl up or not dry.
It is important to consider that to create a quality camouflage you will need not one color, but at least three to four shades to create a realistic transition and volume.
The base layer is usually applied in a lighter tone that overlaps the factory color of the boat, and then patches of darker or contrasting shades are superimposed over it.
Technology for surface preparation
The quality of the final result depends on 80% of the quality of the surface preparation, and even the most expensive paint will not be kept on a greasy or dirty basis.
The process begins with a thorough washing of the boat, and all the dust, the silt, the remnants of the old lubricant and, most importantly, the traces of the water from the boat must be washed away. repellent Fish slime, which often stays on board after fishing.
After washing and drying, the degreasing step is followed by a special PVC cleaner or acetone, if the paint manufacturer allows it to be used.
☑️ Preparing the boat for painting
Special attention should be paid to the places of gluing and seams. If the boat is not new, it may have microcracks or scuffs that need to be cleaned with fine sandpaper for better adhesion.
Some craftsmen recommend that you heat the surface with a building hair dryer before applying the first layer, which allows you to open the pores of the material and remove residual moisture that you can not see.
Work is better to carry out in a room with an air temperature not lower than +20 ° C, since cold PVC dries longer and interacts worse with the solvent.
Screening technique of drawing
There are several ways to create camouflage patterning, but the most professional and common is the stencil method, often called "patchwork" or "spotted."
The essence of the method is to apply layers of paint sequentially through stencils of various shapes, first applying a base layer that completely overlaps the original color of the boat.
Once the base is dry, stencils of plastic film or thick paper are superimposed on the surface, mimicking the contours of the spots, and the paint is applied over the stencils, creating a second layer of camouflage.
Secrets of the professionals
To create the effect of volume and depth, experienced craftsmen use the technique of "dry brush" or airbrush, applying paint at an angle so that the edges of the spots are slightly blurred, rather than having clear boundaries.
For the third and fourth layers, the procedure is repeated using smaller stencils and other shades, and it is important to follow the light-to-dark principle.
Using an airbrush or spray gun gives a much better result than brushwork, as it allows you to create smooth gradients and avoid visible bands.
If you use a brush, the movements should be light, "pumpy" so as not to damage the previous dried layers of paint.
Comparison of painting methods
The choice of tool and application method directly affects the material consumption and time that will be spent on tuning. Below is a comparative table of the main approaches.
| Method | Paint consumption | Complexity | Quality of coverage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aerograph | Minimum | High. | Perfect, smooth. |
| Krascopult | Medium. | Medium | Good, even. |
| Furrow roller | Highly | Low. | Textural (share effect) |
| Paintbrush | Highly | Low. | With the risks of the pile |
As you can see from the table, the airbrush is the most economical tool, but requires skills and additional equipment (compressor).
For one-time work in garage conditions, the best choice is often the use of foam roller or sponge, which create an interesting texture that hides the unevenness of the application.
However, it is worth remembering that porousThe slab created by the roller can accumulate dirt faster, so the finishing protective layer in this case is mandatory.
Protective coating and drying
After all the layers of camouflage have been applied and dried, many craftsmen stop thinking the work is finished. It's a mistake.
Camouflage pattern, especially made in several colors, is subject to fading under the influence of ultravioletThe sun can quickly turn bright spots into faded blurred zones.
To consolidate the result and extend the service life of the coating, you need to apply the finish layer of transparent varnish or a special fixture for PVC.
The finish layer of varnish not only protects the paint from burnout, but also gives the surface additional abrasion strength9, which is critical for inflatable boats.
Drying each layer should be done in strict accordance with the instructions on the can of paint, usually taking 2 to 6 hours at room temperature.
Full polymerization, when the material is at its maximum strength, occurs 24 to 48 hours after the last layer has been applied, and early use can lead to the side of the board sticking together.
Do not try to speed up the drying process with a powerful hair dryer or heaters, since sharp heating can lead to the formation of bubbles or deformation of the fabric.
Typical errors and precautions
Despite the seemingly simple process, beginners often make mistakes that negate all efforts and money spent.
One of the most common problems is applying a layer of paint that is too thick, and in pursuit of the master's cover, they pour material, forgetting that the thick film will burst when the boat is bent.
⚠️ Warning: Never apply paint to the stick. If the previous layer is not completely dried, the solvent from the new layer will dissolve the bottom layer, turning the coating into porridge that cannot be repaired without full washing.
Another mistake is ignoring humidity, painting in a damp garage or outdoors in high humidity will cause the paint to become cloudy or white (the whitening effect).
It is also dangerous to use aggressive solvents not intended for PVC, such as 646 or 647 in its pure form to prepare the surface, unless specified in the instructions, which can "eat" the top protective layer of tissue, making it sticky forever.
☑️ Quality control of painting
Before the final assembly and pumping of the boat, it is recommended to conduct an elasticity test on an inconspicuous area, for example, on the bottom near the transom.
So heat this area with a hair dryer, and try to bend it, and if there's a crack, the technology is broken, and you have to remove it.
Care for camouflage coating
Well-painted coatings last for years, but they also require careful treatment, and the main enemy of camouflage is the abrasive effects of sand and stones.
When transporting, try not to drag the boat on the ground, especially if there is sand on it. The sand grains work like sandpaper, erasing paint faster than when swimming.
Washing such a boat should be done with a soft sponge without the use of aggressive household chemicals containing chlorine or strong alkalis.
Repair of damage
If there's a scratch on the camouflage, you don't have to repaint the entire side, you can gently clean the damage, degrease it, and spot paint with residues of paint, using a thin brush or cotton swab.
Keeping the boat in a deflated form in a dark place. Prolonged storage in an inflated state in the sun can lead to uneven fading of the pattern and the appearance of "shadows" from the folds.
Regularly check the condition of seams and painted surfaces, timely detection of a small crack will eliminate it quickly and cheaply.
Frequently asked questions
Can I paint a boat with ordinary car paint?
No, conventional car enamel becomes hard and inelastic when it dries, and when you pump the boat and deform the side, it will instantly become a network of cracks and start to crumble. Use only specialized PVC compounds.
How many layers of paint do you need for a good camouflage?
The optimal is to apply one dense base layer and two or three layers of pattern through stencils, which is 3-4 layers, and it is not recommended to do more, so as not to weight the structure and not reduce elasticity.
How long does the boat dry after painting?
The drying time "on the stick" is 2-4 hours at a temperature of +20 ° C. However, full polymerization and readiness for active operation (pumping, descent to water) occurs in 24-48 hours.
Do I need to skin the boat before painting?
Deep cleaning is not required or even harmful, as it can damage the cords of tissue, light wool with fine sandpaper (grain 240-320) is enough to improve adhesion and mandatory degreasing.
Can I paint over an old faded camouflage?
Yes, you can. You can do that. You have to wash the old layer well, degrease it, and if you need to, you have to peel it a little bit, and if the old camouflage is very strong, you put the new pattern on top of it, and if the old layer flakes off, you have to remove it completely.