Installation of a windscreen is one of the most effective ways to increase the comfort of managing a small vessel. Polycarbonate for the boat It's perfect for impact resistance and lightness, which is critical for buoyancy, and unlike silicate glass, it can withstand significant loads, and it can be transparent even after contact with water and salt.
However, the selection and installation process requires careful attention to detail. Wrong fasteners or ignoring temperature expansions can lead to deformation of the structure or cracks. In this article, we will discuss all the nuances of working with this material, so that your boat is not only beautiful, but also safe.
Advantages of using polycarbonate for water technology
The main argument in favor of this material is its phenomenal strength. Cellular or monolithic polycarbonate is hundreds of times stronger than normal glass, making it virtually indestructible in water conditions, and even if you hit a branch or get hit by a small wave, the material is likely to remain intact.
The second important factor is weight. The windscreen design should not overload the bow of the boat, as this affects the different. Polycarbonate It weighs half as much glass, allowing for larger and more complex designs without compromising the boat's performance, especially for PVC inflatable boats, where every kilogram counts.
- 🌊 High resistance to salt water and corrosion, which prolongs the service life of the product.
- 🛡️ The presence of a protective UV layer that prevents the yellowing and clouding of the material under the sun.
- 🔨 The ability to drill and be flexible without loss of strength specifications in compliance with technology.
Safety is also worth noting: under extreme loads, the material does not crumble into sharp shrapnel that could injure passengers. The temperature range of high-quality polycarbonate is from -40 to +120 degrees CelsiusThis completely covers all climatic conditions of swimming.
Selection of material type: cellular or monolithic
Before buying, you need to decide on the type of material, since they have fundamental differences in structure and application. Monolithic polycarbonate It's a solid sheet that looks like glass, and it has better optical transparency and aesthetics, but it costs more.
On the other hand, polycarbonate It has a mesh structure that gives it excellent thermal insulation properties, and it's less relevant for a windshield on a boat, but it's lighter and cheaper, but you can see water or dirt coming in through the transparent partitions of the cells, which spoils the appearance.
To create a windbreaker, it is most often chosen a monolithic version with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm. It better holds the shape when blowing in the oncoming airflow and does not create optical distortions that tire the driver's eyes. Cellular material makes sense to use only if you make a closed cabin or awning with windows, where thermal insulation is important.
Essential tools and supplies
The quality of the installation depends on the preparation, and you need not only the plastic sheet itself, but also a specific set of tools. drill with the possibility of adjusting the speed is mandatory, since it is impossible to drill polycarbonate at high speeds - it will begin to melt.
Marking and cutting will require an electric jigsaw with a metal file (a small tooth) or a special disk saw. A conventional knife is only suitable for a thin cellular version, a monolith with a thickness of more than 3 mm is better to cut with a power tool. Also, remember about personal protective equipment: glasses and gloves.
☑️ Installation tools
The most important part of the preparation is the choice of fasteners. stainless-steel (A2 or A4) or brass. The normal ferrous metal will rust in one season, and the rust will flow down your new glass, leaving indelible marks, and you'll need rubber washers or pads to compensate for the vibrations.
Technology of cutting and drilling sheets
The material processing process requires compliance with temperature regimes. Polycarbonate has a high coefficient of linear expansion, so the holes under the fastener should be larger than the screw diameter by 2-3 mm. If you make a hole back to the side, when heated in the sun, the sheet will burst around the fastener.
When drilling, use drills with a sharpening angle of 30 degrees, they cut cleaner and heat the material less. Drill speed It should not exceed 1000-1500 revolutions per minute. If you smell burning or see that plastic melts, immediately stop and slow down.
| Leaf thickness (mm) | Drill diameter (mm) | Step of fastening (see) | Type of puck |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3-4 | 4.5 - 5.0 | 30-40 | Rubber-broad |
| 5-6 | 6.0 - 7.0 | 40-50 | Thermoshed |
| 8-10 | 8.0 - 9.0 | 50-60 | Metallic with rubber |
| 12+ | 10.0+ | 60-70 | Enhanced. |
The best way to cut the sheet is to keep the protective film intact, to keep the surface from scratching during the work, and after all the operations are complete, you can carefully remove the film, and if the sheet is large, you'd better fix it with strubs through the soft pads so that it doesn't slide under the saw.
⚠️ Warning: Never use a Bulgar (Bulgar) to cut polycarbonate. The high speed of rotation of the disc leads to instantaneous melting of the edges and destruction of the material structure, making it brittle.
Installation of windscreen on the frame of the boat
Installation of the finished glass on the boat begins with fitting. Don't rush to tighten the fastener immediately "deadly." First insert all the screws, check the geometry and then start fixing. Equal distribution of tension is the key to the durability of the structure.
For attachment to a metal or aluminum frame, special profiles or corners are often used. If you attach the glass directly to the board, be sure to use the glass. sealant It's polyurethane-based, and it's going to provide water resistance and additional depreciation.
The secret to perfect fit
To make the glass sit tightly on an uneven side, you can use the method of "liquid nails" point by point, but the main emphasis is on mechanical fasteners. The sealant in this case plays the role of a sealant, not glue.
It's important to keep the bolt tightening sequence going. Start from the center and move diagonally to the edges, like when you tighten the wheel nuts of a car, and this will avoid distortions and local stresses in the material. After installation, check if there are any gaps through which wind can blow or water can enter.
Care and maintenance of transparent structures
Polycarbonate requires careful cleaning, although it is highly impact-resistant, it is easily scratched by abrasive particles, and use only a soft sponge, warm water and neutral detergents to wash. Aggressive chemistryA chlorine containing ammonia, alkalis or chlorine is strictly prohibited – it destroys the UV protective layer.
Check the condition of the fasteners regularly. Vibration on the water can gradually unwind the joints. Once a season, it is recommended to walk through all the bolts with a key and tighten them if necessary. Also inspect rubber gaskets: if they are cocked or cracked, they must be replaced to avoid vibrating the glass.
Use special polyroles with antistatic effects for polycarbonate, which create a film that repels dust and splashes, which greatly improves visibility during rain.
If there are small scratches on the surface, you can try to polish them with special compounds. Deep damage is better not to touch, because polishing will remove the protective layer, and at this point the material will begin to break down from ultraviolet faster.
Common errors in self-installation
One of the most common mistakes is ignoring thermal gaps, and beginners often drill holes exactly below the bolt diameter, forgetting that in the sun, the plastic expands, resulting in cracks that diverge from the attachment points on the first hot day.
Another problem is the use of inappropriate washers. A metal washer without a rubber pad works like a lens, focusing the sun's rays, or simply clamping the material, causing it to deform. Always use wide thermal washers with a soft seal.
- ❌ Use of silicone sealant instead of polyurethane (silicone does not hold vibration well and flakes off over time).
- ❌ Drilling at high revs without cooling (leads to melting edges).
- ❌ Installation without removing the protective film from the inside (the film can boil and it will have to be scraped).
⚠️ Note: Do not attempt to bend a polycarbonate sheet in a cold state if the bending radius is less than permissible. For a monolithic polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 mm, the minimum radius of cold bending is about 60-70 cm.
The main secret of success is the use of the right fastener with thermal compensation gaps and high-quality seals, not only the strength of the material itself.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use glass instead of polycarbonate?
Theoretically, it is possible, but it is not recommended: the car glass (triplex or tempered) is much heavier, which will worsen the performance of the boat, and it is much more fragile to point blows, which often occur on the water (stick, stone, anchor).
How to clean polycarbonate from an old film if it is boiled?
Try to warm the surface with a building hair dryer at a low temperature (no more than 60-70 degrees) to soften the glue. Then gently tuck the edge with a blade and slowly pull. The glue residue can be removed with alcohol or a special means to remove stickers, but do not use acetone or gasoline.
What thickness polycarbonate to choose for speeds up to 40 km / h?
For speeds up to 40-50 km / h, a thickness of 4 mm is quite enough. If you plan to develop high speeds or make high glass, it is better to take 5-6 mm to reduce the sailing vibration and increase rigidity.
Do I need to smear the bolt thread before installation?
Yes, be sure to use a graphite lubricant or a thread fixer (medium fixation), especially if the stainless steel fastener will prevent the thread from boiling and facilitate dismantling in the future, as well as protect against corrosion.