The operation of a small craft in the summer is inextricably linked to the impact of aggressive environment, scorching sun, sudden downpours and even just dust can cause serious damage to the internal equipment of the cockpit and the skin of the boat. boat-trenches It becomes a top priority for any owner who wants to extend the life of his boat and provide comfort during parking.
Creating a high-quality shelter is not just stitching two pieces of fabric, but a complex process that requires accurate calculations and understanding of the properties of materials. A properly designed awning protects not only from moisture, but also prevents plastic from burning out, cracking rubber seals and overheating the engine. In this article, we will discuss in detail all stages of production, from selection to selection. silk-cloth until the final installation on the frame.
Many boat owners mistakenly believe that it is sufficient to use a regular tarpaulin or polyethylene to protect them, but modern seaworthiness and aesthetics requirements dictate their own rules: a well-made tent case should fit tightly, not sail in the wind and maintain elasticity at low temperatures. Let's see what materials will achieve this result.
Choosing the optimal fabric for sea awning
The basis of the durability of any shelter is the material from which it is made. Shipbuilding and the manufacture of water accessories have historically developed a certain standard of quality. Oxford polyurethane or PVC coatings, as well as specialized acrylic fabrics, such as SunbrellaThese materials have a unique ability to repel water and are not susceptible to rotting.
When choosing fabrics for tailoring It is critical to pay attention to the density of the threads and the thickness of the protective layer. For running awnings that experience wind loads, it is recommended to use a density of at least 450 g / sq.m. If you sew a parking awning shelter (transport cover), which will protect the boat during wintering, the density should be higher - from 600 g / sq.m and more.
⚠️ Attention: Never use cotton-based materials for awnings without special chemical impregnation. In conditions of high humidity and salt water, natural cotton quickly absorbs moisture, becomes heavier and begins to spout, which will lead to the destruction of the seams and damage to the material itself in one season.
The color of the canvas deserves special attention. Dark shades, such as dark blue, graphite or black, heat up in the sun much more than light colors. However, dark fabric is better at hiding pollution and looks more strict. Light fabrics, in turn, reflect ultraviolet light, keeping cool under the tent, but require more frequent cleaning. The choice depends on where your boat will be operated.
Designing the frame and choosing fittings
The fabric itself does not hold a shape, it needs a rigid and lightweight frame. The awning frame is a skeleton structure that carries the main wind and snow loads. It is most often used for duraluminium pipes or profile stainless steel. Aluminum is light and does not rust, but requires careful handling, because it is easy to bend. Stainless steel is stronger, but heavier and more expensive.
The key element of the pipe connection is fittings. boat-tree They use cast or forged silumin or stainless steel knots, which allow you to create complex spatial structures without welding, and it's important that the diameter of the pipes and fittings matches to millimeter accuracy, otherwise the frame will be shaky.
- 🔩 T-connectors - are used to create jumpers and crossbars that ensure the rigidity of the structure.
- 🔩 Corner fittings (90° and 45°) - necessary for the formation of curves of the frame in the nose and at the transom.
- 🔩 End plugs. - protect the ends of the pipes from water and dirt, and also prevent injury to the sharp edges of the metal.
And the fastening fittings on the fabric itself are also important. To fix the awning, luvers (metal rings) or special belts with fastex buckles are used. Luvers must be made of brass or stainless steel, because ordinary steel alloy will quickly rust and stain the fabric. The distance between the luvers is usually 30-50 cm, depending on the sail of the tent.
When assembling the frame, use rubber hammers to connect the pipes to fittings, which will prevent dents on aluminum and preserve the anodized coating that protects the metal from corrosion.
Measurement and patterning
Accuracy is politeness, not only of kings, but also of the seamstresses of tent shops. A mistake in measuring during the design phase can lead to the finished product either not fitting into the frame, or will hang around collecting water in "pockets." Before starting work, you need to carefully clean the boat and the frame of dirt, so that the measurements are as accurate as possible.
The process of measuring begins with the overall dimensions, the maximum length and width of the tent is measured, then the heights at the key points are measured: at the transom, at the middle part and at the forehead. If the awning is complex with lower sides, you need to measure the height of the board along the entire length of the perimeter, all the data should be entered into a table, so as not to get confused.
| Measurement parameter | Description | Recommended leave |
|---|---|---|
| Main length | Distance from nose to transmunz at the top | +10-15 cm |
| maximum width | The width of the cockpit at its widest point | +20-30 cm (per overhang) |
| The height of the dome | Distance from planshira to the highest point of the arc | +5 cm (tension) |
| Perimeter down | Length of edging for installation of luvers | +5-7 cm (at the gate) |
Once you take the measurements, you can use millimeter paper at 1:10 or 1:20 scales, or if you have experience, you can mark it directly on the floor of a large room with chalk. When building a pattern, the seams are taken into account, which range from 1.5 to 3 cm depending on the type of connection.
Technology of cutting and preparation of details
Tissue cutting is a stage where you can't fix a mistake. Unlike clothing, where you can remake a part, in tent manufacturing, every centimeter of fabric is expensive, and errors lead to the marriage of the whole canvas. Before starting work, the material must be kept straightened at room temperature for at least 24 hours to deformities that occur when stored in a roll.
The cutting uses special disc knives or powerful tailor scissors with long blades. Electric cutting machines are used for large production volumes. Marking on fabrics is better done with special chalk or marker that disappears after a certain time or is washed away with water. The use of ballpoint pens or pencils is prohibited, since they can leave indelible marks.
- ✂️ Filament direction - when cutting, it is important to observe the direction of the lobe thread, especially if the fabric has a pattern or texture weaving.
- ✂️ Symmetry of detail If the awning consists of symmetrical halves, cut one detail, and use the second as a template to avoid distortions.
- ✂️ Marking Immediately after cutting, each detail must be marked according to the scheme, indicating the top, bottom and front side.
⚠️ Attention: When you cut synthetic fabrics (Oxford, PVC), the edges of the cut can melt slightly and "flag." That's fine, but it requires care in further processing. Don't try to melt the edges with a lighter along the entire length, it thickens the seam and interferes with quality firmware.
If the awning consists of several strips (which often happens with a large width of the boat), you need to correctly calculate the docking. The seams must go along the boat to minimize the number of cross connections that are potential leakage sites. All parts are recommended to be swept away or shaved off before stitching with special clamps, since the pins leave holes in the synthetics that can become foci of rupture under load.
How do you calculate tissue consumption?
To calculate, multiply the length of the awning by its width, adding 10-15% for shrinkage and cutting errors. If the awning is complex, with sides and valves, it is better to make a pre-layout moulded on the floor to optimize the use of the material.
Sewing and reinforcing seams
The most important step is to connect the parts. tailoring They use two- or three-needle shuttle stitch sewing machines that can sew thick, multi-layered bags, and a typical household machine can't do that, it will break at the first centimeters, and the seam must be strong, elastic, and waterproof.
The main type of seam in tent art is a weld with the edges inwardly, often called a sewing seam or a lock seam, which provides double protection against moisture through the needle, and all seams are necessarily glued with a special sealing tape (thermoseil) on the inside, which turns the seam into a monolithic waterproof compound.
In places of high tension — corners, mounts to the frame, mounting points of the luvers — the fabric is necessarily reinforced, to do this, sew additional linings of the same material or install plastic/metal reinforcing rings, and the step of the line is also reduced in these areas for greater density.
☑️ Quality control of the seam
The tailoring threads are synthetic, most often lausan or polyester, labeled "LL" or "LX." They do not rot, do not absorb moisture and have high tensile strength. The thread thickness is selected under the thickness of the fabric: for a light Oxford 200-300 g / sq.m. fit thread No. 40-50, for heavy tent fabrics 600+ g / sq.m. need thread No. 20-30.
Installation of the tent and first operation
Once the boat awnings are made, the installation phase begins, and for the first time, it is better to wear the awning in calm weather, without strong wind, so that you can calmly spread all the folds, the awning gently throws over the frame and centered relative to the diametric plane of the boat.
The stretch is done from center to edge, first the nose, then the aft, and only after that side, the fabric should be pulled like a drum, but without fanaticism: excessive pull can deform the frame or cause tissue to rupture when the wind gusts, all belts and fasteners should be fixed.
In the first operation, you need to carefully monitor the behavior of the awning, and if water pockets form during the rain, this is a signal that the tension in this place is not enough, and the structure of the frame may need to be improved by adding a strut, and it is also worth checking the tightness of the seams under water pressure.
A properly installed awning should not touch the inner elements of the boat (seats, dashboard), so as not to wipe on sharp corners while pitching in the wind.
Care and storage of the boat awning
The life of the awning depends on the storage conditions, synthetic materials are resistant to ultraviolet light, but constant exposure to direct sunlight for many years still reduces their strength, so when the boat is used actively, the awning is better removed and removed in the shade or cover.
Before winter storage, the awning must be thoroughly washed using a soft brush and soap solution, aggressive solvents, chlorine-containing agents or rigid abrasives that will damage the protective layer should not be used, and after washing, the awning must completely dry in the straightened form.
- 🧼 Cleanup Remove leaves, bird droppings and dirt immediately, as they may contain acids that corrode the coating.
- 🧼 Suit Keep the awning only dry, and wet cloth rolled up is the perfect medium for mold that is almost impossible to remove.
- 🧼 Curtailment - roll the awning in a roll, not in a coil, to avoid the clatters of the coating, which in the cold can crack.
Check the condition of the joints and fasteners regularly. If you notice that the thread in some place begins to "fluff" or thin, it is better to sew this area immediately, without waiting for a break. Timely minor repairs prolong the life of the product for many seasons.
Can I wash my boat awning in the washing machine?
Aggregate drum and centrifugal force when pressed can damage the protective coating of the fabric and impair the tightness of the seams, only manual washing with soft detergents is allowed.
How do you fix the awning sagging?
The sagging is usually caused by stretching or loosening of the attachments. Try pulling the adjustment straps. If the fabric is stretched irreversibly, you'll need to install additional struts on the frame or sew up excess fabric.
What is the difference between a parking awning and a running awning?
The topper has a more complex aerodynamic shape, rigid mounts and often transparent windows for viewing. The transport cover is made simpler, often made of denser fabric, and is designed for long-term protection from precipitation, but not for movement at high speeds.
What fabric to choose for the northern latitudes?
For cold climates and frequent snowfalls, high-density PVC fabrics (at least 650 g/sq.m.) are best suited. They do not tan in the cold, withstand the weight of the snow cap and are easily cleaned of ice.