Installing additional equipment on an inflatable vessel is not just a matter of convenience, but also an important aspect of water safety. Often owners are faced with the need to anchor, install an additional transom or mount holders for rods. bolt-boltHowever, improper installation can lead to leakage or even depressurization of the cylinder at the most inopportune time, so the procedure should be approached with the utmost responsibility.
Modern materials allow you to create a compound that is not inferior in strength to the factory seams, but this requires strict adherence to the technology. In this article, we will discuss how to choose the right glue, prepare the surface and sticking it in You'll learn about the nuances of working with polyurethane adhesives and understand why drying speed is secondary to the quality of preparation.
Before you start, you need to make sure you have all the tools and materials you need, and you don't need to skimp on chemistry, because it's what keeps the heterogeneous materials together. The optimal air temperature for gluing is from +20 ° C to +25 ° C with a humidity of not more than 60%. If you plan to work in a garage or outdoors, make sure that there are no drafts and dust in the room that can settle on fresh glue.
Selection of materials: glue and type of rim bolts
The first step to successful installation is to select the components. PVC boats are made from reinforced polyvinyl chloride, which requires specific solvents to activate the surface. Normal superglue or epoxy resin will not work here, either they will not penetrate the fabric structure or they will make it brittle over time. You need a two-component resin. polyurethanespecially designed for PVC.
And there are also different kinds of crumple bolts, and for easy tasks like awning or anchoring, plastic or brass bolts are good, but if you're planning to use a mount to install it, you'll want to use it. pole-transom Under a motor of more than 5 hp or for a winch, choose reinforced metal ruff bolts with a wide area. A wide "heel" distributes the load over a large area of fabric, reducing the risk of rupture.
When choosing adhesive, pay attention to its color. The transparent glue is versatile, but it can turn yellow over time. Grey boats are better served with gray adhesive, and colored boats (green, blue) are better served with a corresponding hue to make the glue less visible. It is also important to check the shelf life of the composition: an expired hardener may not start the polymerization reaction, and the pock will unstick under load.
Preparation of the working area and tool
The quality of the gluing depends 90% on the surface preparation. adhesive You can't hold it if you have dirt, fat or factory lubricant on the fabric, wash the installation site thoroughly with warm water and soap, and then defat with a special compound or acetone. Don't use Kalosha gasoline, because it can leave a greasy film.
After degreasing, you need to remove the protective layer of lacquer from the surface of PVC. This uses fine sandpaper (granularity 200-400). Carefully hide the area under the fry and the back of the site itself until the mat appears. The main thing is not to overdo it and not damage the reinforcing cord of tissue. The dust formed in the process must be carefully removed.
You will need to work:
- 🧴 Degreasing agent (acetone, alcohol or special means)
- 📏 Marker and line for marking
- ✂️ Scissors and sandpaper
- 🖌️ Pluster brush
- 🔧 Bolt-strap wrench
Make a stock marking. Put the poop on the balloon and circle it with a marker. If you stick the poop on board, make sure that when deflated, it will not interfere with the packing of the boat into the bag. Also make sure that the installation site does not fall on the seam or cloth fold, where maximum stresses arise during pumping.
☑️ Ready for gluing
Technology of applying glue and gluing
The process of gluing PVC requires patience. Unlike household adhesives, polyurethane compounds work on the principle of diffusion: they must dissolve the top layer of both materials to dry out the monolith. Apply the first thin layer of glue on the skim surface of the boat and on the fry bolt itself. Let it dry to "stick" - usually this takes 10-15 minutes, but the exact time is specified in the instructions for the specific brand.
Once the first layer is dry, apply a second, thicker layer of glue to both surfaces. Wait again for the manufacturer's time (usually 20-40 minutes). The glue should stop sticking to your fingers, but retain stickiness. At this point, surfaces are activated. If you overstood the glue, it will crystallize and not glue together; if you hurry, the connection will be weak.
Plug the balloon with a crust, press it hard. It's important to squeeze all the air bubbles out of the court. Move from center to edge using a hard roller or just fingers with gloves. Once pressed, the glue site needs to be warmed up. Use a household hair dryer to heat the surface to 50-60°C (the hand should be hot but tolerant). The heat accelerates the chemical reaction and increases the strength of the joint.
Use a hard roller (such as a screwdriver handle wrapped in cloth) to roll the gluing site with force – this is critical for removing air.
Fixing and time of polymerization
After gluing and heating, the rim bolt must be fixed under pressure, the load (sandbag, dumbbells, water canisters) must be placed on the site of installation, the weight of the cargo should be 5-10 kg, distributed evenly over the area of the fry. Do not use point pressure, as this can skew the part at the time of grasping.
The time to fully polymerize the glue is 24 to 72 hours. On the first day, it is not recommended to touch the boat, check the connection or try to unscrew the bolt. Full strength is gained only after three days at room temperature. If you hurry and load the attachment ahead of time, the structure of the glue may break, and the leakage will be lost.
The table below shows the approximate drying time depending on temperature:
| Air temperature | Time to "Otlip" (1 layer) | Time to glue (2 layers) | Time of complete polymerization |
|---|---|---|---|
| +15°C | 20-25 minutes | 40-50 min | 72 hours |
| +20°C | 15-20 minutes | 30-40 minutes. | 48 hours. |
| +25°C | 10-15 minutes | 20-30 minutes | 24 hours. |
| +30°C | 5-10 minutes | 15-20 minutes | 24 hours. |
Note that the draft greatly accelerates the drying of the top layer, which can lead to the formation of a film that prevents gluing. Work in a calm atmosphere. If you glue in an unheated room in winter, use a heat gun to maintain temperature, but do not direct hot air directly to fresh glue.
What to do if the glue freezes too quickly?
If the glue is dry before the time and lost stickiness, apply an activator or a thin layer of fresh glue over it and wait again. Don't try to glue dry surfaces - it won't hold.
Installation of a through bolt (with drilling)
For maximum loads, for example, when installing cross-plate In this case, the bolt goes through the cylinder and is fixed by a nut on the inside (or the outside if access is available), which is more reliable than glue, but requires drilling, which frightens many owners.
You need to drill PVC carefully. Use a sharp drill with a metal diameter corresponding to the screw thread. To prevent the fabric from chewing, put a wooden bar inside the cylinder. Before installing the bolt, the hole and thread must be smeared with a sealant or PVC glue. This prevents moisture from entering between the layers of fabric and metal.
⚠️ Warning: When drilling, make sure there are no seams or valves on the back of the cylinder. 1 cm error can damage the entire boat. Always touch the structure and visually on both sides.
Once the through bolt is installed, the nut must be tightened with moderate force. Excessive puffing can cut through the fabric or deform the balloon, creating folds that will become stress points. Use wide washers (metal or plastic) on both sides to distribute pressure. The exit site of the bolt on the outside is also recommended to glue for additional sealing.
Quality check and maintenance of anchorages
After the polymerization time (at least 24 hours) has expired, you need to check the quality of the work. Visually inspect the seam: there should be no bubbles, detachments or unpatched areas. Try gently shaking with your arm - it should sit "dead." If you feel a backlash or hear a crunch of adhesive coming off, you have to repeat the procedure by completely removing the old layer.
In the process, regularly inspect the installed elements. The sand that gets under the slime works like an abrasive and can rub the fabric. Periodically clean the area around the mount with a soft brush. If you notice that the slime has begun to move away, do not wait for complete peeling - glue it immediately, cleaning and degreasing the departed area.
The main enemy of the adhesive compound is the sand and dirt that gets under the glue at the time of gluing, and cleanliness is the key to the durability of repairs.
Also worth considering is the effect of ultraviolet light. Although modern adhesives are resistant to UV radiation, constant sunshine can change their properties over time. If the boat is kept in the sun, try to cover it with a tent or remove it in the shade, which will prolong the life of not only the glue, but also the PVC material itself.
Can I put a crumb on a cold boat if there is no way to heat the room?
Gluing below 15°C is highly discouraged. The chemical reaction of polyurethane adhesives at low temperatures is very slow or stops altogether. If you can't heat the room, use a building dryer to heat the glue site locally before applying the glue and be sure to warm the joint after installing the load.
How to replace a special glue for PVC in an emergency?
There's no way to replace it. Moment, Superglue, or epoxy don't provide the elastic, water-resistant seam that's comparable to polyurethane glue. In an emergency (on water), you can use reinforced tape as a temporary measure, but you'll have to reglue it right at home, and using the wrong chemistry will cause the rum to come off with the piece of cloth at the first serious load.
Should I clean the bolt itself if it is new and smooth?
Yes, it does. A smooth plastic or dyed metal surface has low adhesion, and it needs to be shrouded with fine sandpaper until it's matte and degreased, and it creates micro-scratches that the glue will penetrate, providing mechanical adhesion, and without that, the ryum can move away with a whole heel, leaving the glue on the balloon.
How many crum bolts can the balloon hold?
The number of mounts is limited by common sense and free surface area. Do not sculpt the pits close to each other, this weakens the design of the balloon. The optimal distance between the mounting centers is at least 10-15 cm. Also avoid installation on existing seams or reinforcements, unless the instructions for the boat do not provide this.