Choosing the right trailer for an inflatable boat is not just about buying an accessory, but investing in the safety and comfort of your fishing. Many PVC boat owners make the mistake of trying to adapt standard metal platforms, often resulting in damage to cylinders and rapid loss of presentation of the vessel. Inflatable boat It requires a delicate approach, as its bottom and sides are vulnerable to friction and sharp edges.
The modern market offers specialized solutions designed with due regard to the geometry and operation of inflatable vessels. boat-trailer This allows you to quickly launch a boat even in gently sloping conditions, where drag is not possible, and in this article we will discuss the key design differences, materials and nuances of installation that will help you make the right decision.
Key differences of the trailer for PVC from classical models
The main difference lies in the design of the padlock, the support surface on which the boat hull rests. If aluminum or fiberglass vessels use keel rollers or roller systems, inflatable models require inflatable models. flatThis is dictated by the physics of load distribution: a soft balloon cannot rest on narrow points without the risk of deformation when transported at high speeds.
In addition, the height of the sides and the presence of additional fixation elements are important. Inflatable boat trailer It is often equipped with longitudinal limiter sides that prevent lateral shearing of the vessel. Unlike rigid hulls, PVC boats cannot simply be moored to the sides of the trailer, they must be securely strapped along the entire length.
Another important aspect is corrosion protection: since inflatable boats are often used in salt water or stored in a wet state, the trailer must be made of materials that are resistant to aggressive environments. Using conventional painted steel will lead to a rapid appearance of rust, which can stain the light floor of the boat.
Types of constructions and materials used
When choosing a vehicle for your boat, you will come across two main types of materials: galvanized steel and aluminum alloys. Each option has its advantages and disadvantages, which directly affect the lifespan and the final cost of ownership.
Galvanized trailers are the most popular choice because of their affordable price. Hot galvanizing provides reliable protection against corrosion, but over time, especially with frequent contact with salt, the coating may require updating. Aluminum models, in turn, do not rust in principle, but are much more expensive and more susceptible to mechanical damage when hitting stones.
⚠️ Warning: Never use trailers with wooden pawn elements for (long-term) wet boat storage. The wood absorbs moisture, rots and can become a source of mold that will destroy the PVC fabric.
For lightweight inflatable boats, spring suspension is often enough, but if you plan to carry a heavy motor and gear, it is better to consider torsion axles that provide a smoother ride.
Comparative specifications of trailer models
To make the selection process easier, let’s compare the basics of different configurations. The table below will help you navigate your boat size and budget.
| Parameter | Single-axial lung | Uniaxial reinforced | Two-axle (Tandem) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Load capacity | 750 kg | 1200 kg | 3,000 kg |
| Boat length | 4.5 m | 6.0 m | more than 6.0 m |
| Lodent type | Plywood/Plastic | Aluminum/Steel | Adjustable profile |
| Cost | Low. | Medium | High. |
The single-axle lightweight models are ideal for small inflatable boats up to 4-4.5 meters in length, compact, easy to maneuver when parking and do not require an E-license while respecting weight limits.
Reinforced versions are necessary if you are using powerful outboard Weighing more than 100 kg or planning to transport a boat in running order with a large fuel reserve, dual-axle options are the lot of professionals and owners of large inflatable catamarans.
Step by step: installation of the boat on the trailer
Properly loading an inflatable boat is a critical skill that will keep your property from being damaged, a process that is different from loading hard-hull vessels and requires a certain sequence of actions.
First, make sure that the trailer is on a level surface. If you are near water, the ramp angle should be minimal. Adjust the car so that the trailer breaths towards the water and the rear wheels are close to the edge.
☑️ Preparation for loading
Take the boat carefully to the trailer, trying to center it relative to the axis of symmetry. It is important that the keel of the boat (or the conventional center line) coincides with the longitudinal axis of the trailer. Sharp movements are unacceptable here, because you can easily pierce the balloon against the protruding element of the structure.
Once the boat has taken its place, start fixing. First, fasten the nose, then tighten the side belts. Don't pull the belts too much so as not to deform the cylinders, but don't leave them weak - on the highway, the boat should not "walk."
⚠️ Warning: When transporting over long distances, be sure to check the tension of the belts every 50-70 km. Vibration can weaken the fixation, which will lead to displacement of the load.
The final step is to install a transom stop or additional support for the motor, if it's mounted on a boat, which will reduce the load on the transom while driving.
Do I need to get air out of the boat before transporting?
Modern PVC membranes allow the boat to be transported in a fully pumped state. Moreover, an inflated vessel is better in shape and less susceptible to vibration loads. Air is only allowed to flow in extremely hot weather (+40 ° C and above), when the risk of seams rupturing from a pressure drop becomes critical. Under normal conditions, it is enough to control the pressure with a pressure gauge before each trip.
Tuning and finalization of standard trailers
It often happens that the trailer you buy requires modification to ideally accommodate a particular model of inflatable boat. The owner may find that standard lozenges do not repeat the contours of the vessel, creating points of excess pressure.
One of the most useful improvements is the installation of additional soft rollers or foamed polyethylene mats, which is especially true if you use a trailer previously owned by the owner of a hard boat. Modernization It allows you to adapt the rigid frame to the soft body.
It's also worth considering installing a long-tether winch. For inflatable boats, it's not just a convenience, it's a necessity, since pulling a heavy vessel by hand along a slippery shore can be difficult and traumatic.
Use a car sealant or special linings on the sharp corners of the metal frame of the trailer. Even accidentally touching the cylinder on a sharp angle in the wind can lead to a cut.
Don't forget the lighting. The overall lights on the trailer must be sealed and securely secured. Inflatable boats are very sailable, so the lights must withstand significant wind loads without breaking.
Off-season maintenance and storage
The durability of an inflatable boat trailer depends on the quality of care it takes when it is not in use, and the aggressive aquatic environment, sand and dirt do their job, so prevention is essential.
After each trip, especially by sea, the trailer must be thoroughly rinsed with fresh water. The salt, drying on metal parts, begins to actively corrode the protective layer. Pay special attention to the hubs of the wheels and the braking system, if it is provided by the design.
Keeping the trailer is best under a canopy or in a garage, having previously removed the boat from it. Prolonged exposure to load can lead to "tiredness" of springs or deformation of the frame.
⚠️ Warning: Before putting it in winter storage, be sure to lubricate all movable joints and bearings. Moisture trapped in the friction nodes, when frozen, can split the metal.
Check the electrical wiring regularly. Contacts are often oxidized, causing lighting to fail. Using contact spray and silicone lubricant will help avoid electrical problems.
The main secret of long-term service of the trailer is regular washing with fresh water after each exit to salt water and storage in a dry place without load.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do I need a category "E" for a trailer under an inflatable boat?
Category E is required if the total mass of the road train (car + trailer) exceeds 3,500 kg. For most light trailers for inflatable boats (up to 750 kg), the usual category B is sufficient, provided that the mass of the trailer does not exceed the mass of the equipped car.
Can I carry an inflatable boat on a trailer with rollers?
Theoretically, it's possible, but it's not recommended, because rollers create a point load that can push through the bottom or damage the stringers, and if you don't have another way, put a sheet of plywood or a thick foam on the rollers to distribute the weight.
How often should the bearings on the trailer be changed?
Bearings depend on the operating conditions. When used frequently in salt water, the lubricant needs to be changed every season and the bearings checked for backlash. On average, a quality hub runs 15-20 thousand km, but prevention is mandatory.
What is the maximum size of the boat can be placed on a single-axle trailer?
The optimal length for a single-axle trailer is up to 6 meters. Boats longer than 6 meters when driving can create a dangerous vibration (“wagging”), so a two-axle trolley is already recommended for them.