The issue of increasing the power of the outboard motor worries almost every owner of the boat, whether it is a compact PVC boat or a full-fledged metal boat. The desire to squeeze the maximum out of the available equipment is quite natural, especially when the neighbors in the parking lot are already completely dissected at speed, and your unit barely goes into planing with full load. boat-motor - a procedure that overgrown with legends, myths and candid stories on fishing forums.

Before you grab the tools, you need to be clear: the manufacturer never puts restrictions "just like that." Engineers calculate the resource of the nodes, the cooling system and the strength specifications of the transmission under certain loads. However, the tuning market has been around for a long time, and the methods of improving performance are really known. In this article, we will discuss the technical aspects, the real ways of refining and those pitfalls that are silent sellers of "magic" gaskets.

It should be noted that not all motors are amenable to modification in the same way. whereas older two-stroke models often had hidden potential that could be easily revealed by mechanical intervention, modern electronically controlled four-strokes require a completely different approach. Yamaha, Tohatsu or Mercury They can respond to interventions in different ways, and there is no universal recipe.

Why do manufacturers limit their power?

Many people mistakenly believe that power restriction is a marketing move to sell the more expensive model in the lineup. While there is some truth to this, the technical side of the matter is much more serious. The internal combustion engine is a complex system where all parameters are balanced. Increasing the fuel supply without corresponding changes in other parameters leads to detonation, overheating and eventually failure of the piston group.

Restrictions are often set to meet environmental or certification requirements in certain countries. For example, a 9.9 hp motor can be a deforced version of a 15 hp unit. The difference between them can only be the diameter of the jeeler carburetor, the restrictive washer in the throttle or the software speed limiter in the control unit. ECU.

But it's important to understand that even if the mechanical part is identical, the cooling and lubrication system can be designed to have a lower heat load, and that forced removal of the constraints forces the motor to run to its limits, which inevitably reduces its life.

⚠️ Attention: Removing factory restrictions automatically voids warranty obligations, and any breakdown, even indirectly related to overload, will be a reason for refusing free repairs.

In addition, the transmission and the lower unit may not withstand increased torque. gear gear gears gear gears designed for a certain moment, with a sharp increase in power may not withstand the load, especially when hitting an underwater obstacle or a sharp start.

Mechanical methods of increasing power

The most common and historically first way to sniff is to physically interfere with the fuel and air supply system. For carburetor engines, this is a classic of the genre. The basic principle is simple: you need to ensure that more fuel and air mixtures are burned per unit of time.

One method is to replace or weed the carburetor's chiclers, and by increasing the diameter of the hole, you can get more gasoline into the combustion chamber, but you can't just drill the chicler, you also need to get more air, and you often change the petal valves to more efficient ones, or you can rework the intake manifold by removing the various vortices and flow limiters.

Another popular method is to remove the restrictive washer from the throttle. On many 9.9 hp motors, the throttle cannot physically open completely because of the washer installed, and removing it allows the throttle to open at full angle, which theoretically gives access to full engine power.

  • πŸ”§ Replacement of chiclera carburetor analogues with a large passing section.
  • πŸ”§ Removal of restrictive washers of the throttle valve.
  • πŸ”§ Refining the petal valves to improve the filling capacity of the cylinders.
  • πŸ”§ Installation of a direct-flow muffler (sports exhaust) to reduce resistance.

Remember, mechanical frothing requires careful adjustment, and after the replacement of the jelly, you will need to adjust the quality of the mixture idling and under load. If the mixture is too poor, the engine will overheat; if it is too rich, it will lose thrust and coke in candles.

πŸ’‘

When mechanically suffocating, be sure to use spark plugs with a lower potassium number (more β€œcold”) to avoid potassium ignition and piston burnout.

Electronic scattering and chip tuning

With the development of technology, motor control has shifted from mechanical traction to electronics. ECUIt's a machine that takes data from sensors and adjusts the angle of advance and the duration of fuel injection, and in these engines, mechanical rework is often meaningless without reprogramming the brains.

The process of chip tuning involves connecting the motor to the computer through a special diagnostic interface (often a cable). RS-232 or USB It's an adapter, and it loads the modified firmware, and it takes off the RPM Limiter and changes the fuel cards.

But electronic scattering is not a panacea: If the mechanical part of the motor (pistons, rods, valves) is not designed to be high-speed, removing the electronic limiter can lead to catastrophic consequences. Electronics are often the last barrier to protect the "iron" from self-destruction.

The Risks of Chip Tuning

Software-based changes in the ignition angles can cause detonation, and if the new firmware does not include the octane number of the fuel you use, the engine can fail in minutes of operation under load.

Also worth mentioning are β€œslanting” electronic intervention techniques, such as installing additional modules that trick throttle position sensors (TPS), which send a false signal to the control unit that the throttle is open more than it actually is, causing the system to supply more fuel.

Comparison of methods of modification of motors

The choice of the method of modernization depends on the type of engine, its year of production and technical equipment. Yamaha 2CMHS new Mercury F20Below is a table that helps you navigate your methods.

Motor type Basic method Complexity Efficiency
two-stroke carburetor Replacement of jelly, petals Medium High.
four-stroke carburetor Removing washers, setting up the carburetor Low. Medium
EFI (Injector) Reflashing ECU High. Maximum
With electronic throttle Just flashing it. Very high. Depends on the software.

As you can see from the table, the more modern the motor, the more complex and expensive it becomes to sniff it out, and if an old two-stroke is enough to have a set of keys and a drill, then an injector unit will require expensive equipment and knowledge in electronics.

Mechanical intervention in the carburetor often gives a more predictable result on older engines, whereas the β€œcurve” firmware can turn a reliable unit into a source of constant problems.

The impact of scattering on resource and reliability

This is perhaps the most important section for those who value their motor, and any increase in power beyond factory specifications is a work to the limit, and the engine's resource is determined by a variety of factors: lubrication quality, temperature and mechanical stress.

The most common type of blowout is the piston group, the increase in revs and combustion temperature leads to accelerated wear of the cylinder rings and mirrors, the accelerated aging of engine oil and the coking of the oil pump can be observed in four-stroke engines, and the transmission also receives increased load, especially when entering the planing.

  • πŸ“‰ Resource decline: The engine can pass not 1000 hours, but only 300-400.
  • πŸ“‰ Overheating: The standard cooling system may not cope with increased heat generation.
  • πŸ“‰ Vibration: Working at increased speeds increases vibrations, which leads to metal fatigue and the destruction of fasteners.

Experienced motorists know that an overclocked engine requires much more careful maintenance, the intervals of oil and candle replacement are reduced by many times, and ignoring these requirements leads to major repairs at the most inopportune time.

πŸ“Š Are you willing to sacrifice your warranty for speed?
Yeah, it's worth the risk.
No, the guarantee is more important.
I'm having trouble answering.
I have an old engine, no warranty required.

⚠️ Attention: When the engine is swelling, it is strongly recommended to install an additional temperature sensor or tachometer, if they are not provided with a basic configuration, to monitor critical operating modes.

In Russia and many CIS countries, there are strict rules for registration of floating vehicles: Motors up to 10 hp (inclusive) often do not require registration of the engine itself, and the boat may not require control rights if the total power does not exceed a certain threshold (usually 10 hp).

A 9.9 to 15 hp engine smother formally changes your boat to another category, meaning you must register your engine, obtain a boat's ticket (if the boat is not registered), and have the rights to operate a small vessel.

Although the inspector will not determine whether the chip is replaced or reflashed, in the event of a serious accident (a water accident, a breakdown with victims), a technical examination will be ordered, which will easily reveal the fact of unauthorized interference with the design, which will entail not only administrative but also criminal liability, and insurance companies will refuse payment.

Also, it is worth considering that the sale of a suffocated engine can be regarded as a sale of goods that do not meet the declared specifications, if you do not warn the buyer, this creates additional legal risks when changing ownership.

β˜‘οΈ Checklist before swelling

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Is the game worth the effort?

So to sum up, outboard scattering is a very thoughtful process, and if you have an old two-stroke engine that's not guaranteed anymore, and you have the skills of a mechanic, it can be a success and a more satisfying experience to drive faster.

But for new, expensive, electronically controlled four-stroke engines, the risks far outweigh the benefits, and the savings of buying a less powerful scattering model are often illusory given the cost of work, the risk of breakdown and loss of warranty.

πŸ’‘

Froothing only makes sense on older, simple motors with a higher margin of safety. It's safer for modern technology to buy a higher-power model from the start.

If speed is critical to you, it is best to consider buying a higher power engine or installing a more efficient propeller (within reasonable limits) to increase speed without intruding into the engine's inner world. Remember that water reliability is more important than an extra second and a half before planing.

Will the fuel consumption increase after the swelling?

Yes, fuel consumption will inevitably increase, because to get more power, the engine must burn more mixture, and the increase can be anywhere from 10% to 30% depending on the style of operation and the degree of forcing.

Can the engine be returned to factory condition?

In the case of mechanical friction, yes, it is enough to return the original parts; in the case of chip tuning, yes, if the master has stock firmware or can be downloaded, but the opening of the case may remain.

Will the boat be heavy if the boat is heavy?

Partially, increasing power will help to get a heavy boat to planing faster, but it won't solve the problem completely. For heavy boats, it's more important to find the right pitch of the propeller than to force the engine extremely.

What is the octane number of gasoline needed after smothering?

When boosting the engine, the compression degree or temperature in the cylinder often increases, so it is recommended to use gasoline with a higher octane number (AI-95 or AI-98) to avoid detonation.