Starting the engine is the first and most important step of any water trip, which often becomes a critical moment when the engine does not start the first time. Manual starter On outboard motors of small and medium power is the most common, simple and reliable node, providing a turn of the crankshaft. Understanding the principle of its operation allows the owner of the equipment not only to properly operate the unit, but also to quickly eliminate malfunctions in the field without resorting to the services of service centers.
The design of this mechanism seems primitive, but it is the simplicity that requires the user to comply with certain rules of operation to avoid injuries and breakdowns. gas-starterConsider typical problems with the ratchet mechanism and the rupture of the cord, and give practical tips for maintenance. It is the condition of the lace and the smoothness of its pulling are the main indicators of the health of the starter.
Principle of action and main components
The main task of any starter is to convert the muscle force of a person into the rotational motion of the crankshaft of the engine with sufficient speed to ignite the fuel mixture. ratchet-machineWhen you pull a sharp thrust on the handle, the cord spins a spoole that, through the ratchets, hooks up to the motor flywheel, causing it to rotate.
After the engine has started or the cord has been released, the return spring should quickly and without jerks wind the cord back. Centrifugal force The key here is that the snoring elements (dogs) diverge under centrifugal forces as the flywheel rotates, allowing the spoole to rotate independently of the motor after starting, and if this process is disrupted, the starter will hum, spark or simply not turn the motor.
It's important to understand that different manufacturers can use different designs to implement snoring engagement. Some models use spring-loaded loads, others use balls or fingers that slide down an inclined plane. centre-up All elements in assembly is critical to the durability of the unit.
- 🔧 Starter hull: It is usually made of durable plastic or aluminum alloy, protects internal mechanisms.
- 🌀 The supula (drum): the central element on which the cord is wound and which transmits rotation.
- ⚙️ Ratchman: a system of engagement, transferring the force from the cord to the flywheel of the engine.
- 🔄 Return spring: It automatically winds the cord to its original position.
The main idea of the section: The correct operation of the snoring mechanism depends on the purity of the friction surfaces and the absence of corrosion on the engagement details.
Typical malfunctions: cord rupture and forklift wear
The most common problem faced by water motors is the break of the starter cord, which occurs due to natural wear of the material, rubbing against the edge of the exit hole or sudden jerks with excessive force. Nylon cord Over time, it loses its elasticity and strength, especially if the motor has been exposed to direct sunlight or moisture for a long time.
The second most common malfunction is the wear and tear or break of the ratchets, and if you hear a characteristic crackle when you jerk, but the motor doesn't turn, then you're not going to be able to do that. doggy They don't get caught on the flywheel, and it can be caused by the slimming edges of plastic or metal elements, or by dirt and old lubricant getting into the machinery.
⚠️ Warning: Never let go of the starter handle without control! A sharp return of the spoole can lead to an injury to the brush or damage to the starter's body if the cord does not have time to wind.
There's also a problem with the return spring, and if the cord doesn't recoil or does it sluggishly, the spring either loosens or bursts. In some cases, the spring can jump off the landing site, causing the spoole to jam. dismantling the knot and thorough cleaning.
Instructions for replacing the starter cord
Replacing the cord is a basic operation that every outboard motorist should be able to do on their own. First, remove the starter from the engine by unscrewing the mount bolts. Then carefully disassemble the body to access the spool. It is important to remember or photograph the order of the parts so that there are no problems with assembly.
The old cord is removed and a new section of a special cable with a diameter corresponding to the original (usually from 3 to 5 mm) is installed in its place. The length of the cord should be selected with a margin, but not so large that it is completely unwound during operation. Melt the ends of the cord lighter to prevent them from swelling, and tie a reliable knot at the place of attachment to the spoole.
☑️ Check after cord replacement
Once the new cord is installed, the spring must be cocked, and the spoole is twisted to the cord's side by several turns (usually 3-5), creating a pre-tension, then the cord is inserted into the hole of the body, and the smoothness of its exit and return is checked, and if done correctly, the mechanism must operate silently and confidently.
Adjustment and maintenance of the snoring mechanism
The ratchet mechanism requires periodic lubrication, but it's important not to overdo it. Excessive lubrication at low temperatures can lead to ratchets sticking, and they just won't be able to pop out of the flywheel grooves to engage. Use frost-resistant lubricants or graphite powders to ensure reliable operation in all conditions.
If the edges of the ratchets are slime-free, you can try to repair them, if the material allows, or replace them with new ones. plastic insert Metal ratchets, when worn out, require replacement of the entire assembly or spools, because metal is not possible to be welded at home.
| Type of malfunction | A symptom. | Elimination method |
|---|---|---|
| Cord break | The cord is not stretched, crunch is heard | Cord replacement, spools disassembly |
| Wear of the ratchet | It cracks, but it doesn't turn the engine. | Replacement of ratchets or spools |
| Weak spring | The cord is not retracted. | Replacement or platoon of spring |
| Jamming | Tight move, stinging. | Cleaning and lubrication of the mechanism |
The secret of a long-serving starter
Rub the shaft on which the starter is put before each season. The rust on the engine shaft can spill over to the starter's inner sleeve, causing jamming.
Features of operation in winter
Winter operation of outboard motors, even when it comes to storage, imposes its requirements on the state of the starter. Moisture trapped in the mechanism, when frozen, can block the spoole dead. preserve the node, removing moisture residue and adding protective lubricant.
When trying to start the engine in the cold (if necessary), you can not make sharp, "evil" jerks. the plastic of the body in the extreme cold becomes fragile, and excessive force can lead to cracks in the places of attachment of the bolts. Cold metal It also changes its properties, so all movements should be smooth, but confident.
If the motor is stored in an unheated room, it is better to loosen the starter cord so that the spring is not in constant tension, although modern spring materials are less prone to fatigue.
⚠️ Warning: Do not try to warm up the plastic body of the starter with an open fire or a building hairdryer for "softening" - this will lead to deformation and violation of the geometry of engagement!
Selection of spare parts and compatibility of models
When buying a new starter or remplekt it is important to consider not only the power of the engine, but also the type of mounting, as well as the number and location of the mounting holes. Chinese engines (Hidea, Parsun, SeaPro) often have unified starters that are interchangeable within a single power line (e.g. 2.5-5 hp).
Japanese brands such as Tohatsu or YamahaThey can have unique designs where the starter is integrated with the flywheel in a special way. When ordering parts, always specify the exact model of the engine and the year of production, as in different years of production of the same model, the design of the starter may have changed.
Pay attention to the quality of the materials. Cheap analogues can have low-quality plastic ratchets that lick in one season of active fishing. Better pay more for the original or quality. OEM-analogueChange the starter every six months.
Buy a starter cord with a margin. It costs a penny, but in an emergency situation on a pond, the presence of 2-3 meters of cord can save your fishing.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can I start the engine if the starter breaks down?
In emergency cases, you can use a special key to turn the flywheel (if designed) or, having removed the starter, carefully turn the shaft behind the flywheel, observing safety precautions.
How often should the starter cord be changed?
There is no time limit, and the cord is replaced as it wears out, as it scuffs, as it slaps, or as it shrinks, and on average, when you're in active use, it lasts 2-3 seasons.
Why does the starter spin tight after assembly?
It's likely that the spring was improperly cocked (too much tension) or the spoole skewed when assembled, and it's also possible to use too thick lubricant.
Can I use an electric starter instead of a manual one?
Only if your motor design allows for this (a seat and a flywheel with a cogwheel) is difficult and often economically inefficient to redesign a conventional hand motor for an electric starter.