An aluminum boat is a practical and reliable vessel, but its factory configuration often leaves much to be desired, especially in terms of control ergonomics. The standard tiller system, although simple, tires with long transitions and does not allow you to comfortably operate the boat standing or sitting in a high seat. steering-board It becomes one of the most popular elements of tuning among water engines.
Installing full-fledged steering with a rotary steering wheel dramatically changes the nature of driving, making it more accurate and safe. Homemade control allows you to place navigation devices, sonar and motor controls in line of sight. In this article, we will discuss in detail how to design and assemble a functional control unit. dashboardA one that will last for years.
And you don't think that building a knot is for professional shipbuilders, and using the materials available and following the basic principles of hydrodynamics and ergonomics, any craftsman with a minimum set of tools can create a design that will turn a regular Kazanka or both into a comfortable boat, the main thing is to calculate the dimensions and choose water-resistant materials.
Why do you need a steering console on an aluminum boat?
The main reason for modernization is safety and comfort. When driving a tiller motor boat, the operator is often in an unstable position, which is critical in a strong wave or sharp maneuvers. Steering console allows you to fix, lean and confidently hold the course, which reduces fatigue and the risk of falling overboard.
And then centralization is a question of efficiency, and when all the instruments, the ignition key, the reverse switch, and the navigation are at hand, the captain's response to changes in the environment becomes instantaneous, especially when maneuvering in narrowness or when fishing, when you need to position accurately above the fishing point.
⚠️ Attention: When designing a console, keep in mind that it should not limit view to a 180-degree sector, because a design that is too high or wide can create dead zones, which is unacceptable for water safety.
Also worth mentioning is the aesthetic aspect: Aluminum boats, especially Soviet-era boats, often look utilitarian and rough. A well-designed console made of polished aluminum or high-quality composite gives the boat a modern, "store" look, which increases not only the pleasure of owning, but also the liquidity of the vessel when possible sold.
Selection of materials: aluminum, plywood or plastic
Selection of material steering console Aluminum is the most logical choice for an aluminum boat, as it provides unity of design and corrosion resistance. However, working with metal requires welding or riveting skills.
Many craftsmen choose moisture-resistant plywood (PC or FSF) followed by fiberglass or epoxy paint, which is cheaper and easier to process, allowing for complex geometric shapes. putrefaction inevitably.
- 🛡️ Aluminum leaf (AMG, AMZ): Perfect for strength and weight, does not rot, but requires a special tool for flexible and welding.
- 🪵 Sea plywood: Easy to process, cheap, but requires high-quality waterproofing of the ends and surface.
- 🧱 Glass plastic: Allows casting of forms of any complexity, but the manufacturing process is laborious and requires work with chemically active resins.
Plastic (HDP or ABS) is also used, but more often for bezels than for power structures, a combination of aluminium-shaped frames and plastic-plastic or plywood fronts that is most common in amateur shipbuilding, which reduces weight and makes it easier to install.
When using plywood, be sure to soak all the ends with epoxy resin before assembly - it is through the sections of the fibers that moisture penetrates most quickly, causing stratification.
Design and drawings: ergonomics and dimensions
Before cutting metal or sawing plywood, you need to create a detailed drawingThe size of the console depends on the size of the cockpit of your boat and the height of the operator. The standard height of the remote usually varies from 400 to 600 mm, so that you can easily control both sitting and standing.
The most important parameter is the angle of inclination of the instrument panel. For a comfortable reading of the sounder and the navigator without glare and distortion, the angle should be approximately 15-20 degrees from the vertical. The horizontal upper platform (topplate) is often used to accommodate a compass or smartphone, and it should be strictly horizontal when the boat rolls.
| Parameter | Recommended value | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Height of the console | 450-600 mm | Depends on the operator's growth |
| Panel angle | 15-25 degrees. | To rule out glare |
| Breadth of base | 400-500 mm | Must be closing the transom. |
| Diameter of the helm | 300-380 mm | Standard for small vessels |
When designing, do not forget (leave) a place for laying sturt-throttle They have to go inside the structure without bending or touching sharp edges, and a mistake in the calculations at this point will cause the steering to become jammed or have too much backlash.
How to calculate the length of the scorch?
The length of the turtroses should be equal to the distance from the engine to the console, plus a margin of 10-15% for gasket inside the body and bypassing corners. For accurate calculation, stretch the rope along the intended route.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling a console node
The fabrication process begins with cutting the material. If you work with aluminum, use a metal-fisher jigsaw or a metal-fisher to avoid deforming the sheet. All edges must be thoroughly cleaned with a file and sandpaper, removing the chamfers for welding or gluing.
The frame is assembled by welding (argon) or by aluminium rivets sealed with seams. If plywood is chosen, the parts are joined by glue (epoxy glue) and stainless steel screws. It is important to ensure the rigidity of the structure by adding internal stiffness ribs, especially if the console will rely on the weight of the operator.
☑️ Assembly stages
After the main box is assembled, the front panel is installed, and the holes are cut out for the instruments, and accuracy is important: the diameter of the hole must correspond to the landing size of the device with a tolerance of no more than 1 mm. The edges of the holes in the metal must be zonced so that the sharp edges do not damage the device body or hand.
⚠️ Attention: When drilling holes in aluminum, use only sharp drills and coolant (you can use ordinary oil), otherwise the metal will “float”, and the drill will quickly blunt.
The final step is to install the fasteners to the bottom of the boat. The console should be attached at least four points to the hull power elements (stringers or sides), rather than just a flat bottom that can play on the wave. Use bolted joints with wide washers to distribute the load.
Installation of steering and instrumentation
Installation steering-stuff If you use a cable system, lay them inside the console so that the bend radius is not less than the minimum permissible for this type of cable (usually at least 150-200 mm).
The steering wheel itself must be secure, the steering machine shaft passes through the panel and is secured by a nut, and a rubber or plastic gasket must be laid between the metal panel and the steering wheel body to prevent electrochemical corrosion (galvanic pair).
- 🔌 Electrical wiring: All wires should be in corrugated or cable channel, protected from vibration and water. Use only sea terminals with thermal shrinkage.
- 🧭 Compass: Install a magnetic compass at the maximum distance from metal masses and electrical appliances, strictly along the central axis of the boat.
- 🔋 Ignition lock: Place it in a convenient place, protected from accidental grazing with clothing, but available for emergency engine jamming.
For aluminum boats, it is critical to properly organize grounding and protection against wandering currents if there is electrical equipment on board. All metal parts of the steering system must be electrically connected to the hull of the boat to avoid accelerated corrosion at contact points of dissimilar metals.
The quality of steering depends not so much on the price of the steering wheel, but on the correct laying of the cables and the absence of backlashes in the connections.
Finishing and corrosion protection
Aluminum, despite its resistance, is corrosive in aggressive aqueous environments (especially salty ones), so finishing the console is a must. If you don't plan to paint, you can polish the surface to a mirror shine and coat it with a special varnish for metal or canned wax.
Painting is a more practical option: the surface is degreased, ground with special soils for non-ferrous metals (for example, on a zinc-chromate basis), and painted with polyurethane or epoxy paints, which will create an additional barrier and allow the console to fit into the color scheme of the interior of the boat.
Regular maintenance will extend the life of your creation. After each foray into the water, especially on a salty pond, the console must be rinsed with fresh water. Periodically check the tightening of the fasteners, because the vibration of the motor has the property of weakening them.
How to remove scratches from an aluminum console?
Small scratches can be polished with aluminum polishing paste. Deep risks will require stripping with sandpaper with a gradual reduction in grain (from P400 to P2000) and then polishing. If the console is painted, local coloring will be required.
Can I use a console from a car?
Theoretically, it's possible, but it's not recommended: car panels are not designed for constant vibration, UV radiation and high humidity; plastic will fade quickly and become brittle, and electronics will fail; it's better to use specialized marine components.
Which is better: a three-spoke or four-spoke?
Aluminum boats with cable control are more likely to use three-spoke steering wheels with a diameter of 330-380 mm. They provide better lever and visibility of instruments through the spokes. Four-spoke boats are more common on heavier vessels with hydraulics.
Do I need to put a lid on the console?
A lid is highly desirable if the boat is kept outdoors, it protects the appliances from burnout, and the insides from condensation and dust accumulation, you can sew a simple case of PVC tent or Oxford.