The approach of the winter season poses a critical challenge for each water motor: how to properly preserve the equipment so that in the spring you do not face expensive repairs. The moisture remaining in the carburetor and the cylinder-piston group is the main enemy of the power unit, causing irreversible corrosion processes. It is a specialized spray for the preservation of the outboard motor that becomes a key tool in the fight for the durability of your equipment.
Using conventional motor oils or working as a preservative is a common mistake that can lead to piston rings acidifying. Modern aerosol formulations are designed to be tailored to the specifics of aqueous machinery, providing a durable protective film on metal surfaces, which prevents metal from coming into contact with oxygen and residual moisture, ensuring easy start-up after long downtime.
In this article, we will discuss in detail the chemical composition of preservatives, how they are used for two-stroke and four-stroke engines, as well as answer the most frequent questions of boat owners, you will learn why it is important to use professional chemistry and how to conduct the procedure for preparing for winter as efficiently as possible.
Why is it necessary to preserve the engine before wintering?
The main reason why the use is required preservativeWhen you store a outboard motor in an unheated room or even in a garage, temperature changes cause moisture to condense inside the crankcase and exhaust system. If you don't displace that moisture and protect the surface, you start to corrosion, which in a few months can completely destroy the rubbing vapors.
Particularly vulnerable two-strokeWhen the residue of gasoline is drained, a microscopic layer of moisture remains on the cylinder walls and in the crankcase, which unprotected will turn the cylinder mirror into a rusty surface, the canning spray creates an oil mist that envelops all the internal parts, including crankshaft bearings and rod bearings, displacing water and blocking oxygen access.
⚠️ Warning: It is strictly forbidden to leave the engine for the winter with the residue of the fuel mixture in the carburetor. Gasoline loses its properties, evaporates, and heavy fractions turn into sticky resin, which cokes the jellybers dead.
In addition to protecting against rust, the preservative facilitates the first start in the spring. Motor oil left over from the parts after summer operation often drains into the crankcase, leaving the top of the cylinder dry. When run "dry" there is intense wear of the piston group. The conservatory composition is kept on vertical surfaces much better than conventional oil, providing the necessary lubrication in the first seconds of operation of the starter.
Types of preservatives: aerosols, oils and sprays-repressants
The market of chemistry for water-motor technology offers several types of products, each of which has its own application features. sprayIt's a compound that allows you to apply a preservative under pressure directly to hard-to-reach nodes, and these compounds usually contain solvents that, after application, evaporate, leaving a thick protective film on the metal.
There are also liquid preservatives that are poured directly into the candle hole or injected through the carburetor in large volumes. They are often used for long-term storage in warehouses or for preservation for more than 6 months. However, for the average boat owner, spray is a more convenient and economical solution, allowing you to process the engine without completely disassembling it.
Can WD-40 be used for conservation?
WD-40 is a great moisture dislodging agent, but a poor long-term preservative. It contains many volatile solvents that evaporate quickly, leaving a thin layer that can't protect the motor all winter. Use specialized sprays that are high in oily substances.
When choosing a product, pay attention to its base. Silicone sprays protect rubber seals and plastic well, but they are less suitable for metal internal parts of the engine. The optimal choice is compositions based on mineral or synthetic oils with the addition of anti-corrosion additives and rust inhibitors.
Technology of conservation of two-stroke outboard motors
Processing two-stroke It has its own nuances related to the design of the crank mechanism, and because these engines circulate fuel throughout the internal volume, including the piston space, conservation must be carried out through the intake system, which allows the protective compound to penetrate all corners of the engine.
Before the procedure, the engine must be heated to operating temperature to ensure maximum expansion of metal parts and better penetration of the composition. Then, at idle speeds, spray is injected into the air filter or directly into the carburetor. The engine must run until it dies from lack of fuel, filling with preservative vapors.
☑️ Checklist of Conservation of 2T Engine
It's important not to overdo it with the amount of injected substance. The excess can create a hydraulic shock or make it difficult to turn the crankshaft the next time you start. Once the engine has stalled, you need to manually turn the crankshaft several times (through the starter cord or flywheel nut) to evenly distribute the preservative over the bearings and cylinder walls.
Features of processing four-stroke engines
Conservation four-stroke So it requires a different approach, because the lubrication system is closed and separate from the fuel system, and the focus is on protecting the cylinder-piston group and the valve mechanism, and the spray is injected directly into the candle hole while the piston is at the bottom dead point, or through the intake system during a short-term start.
Many owners make the mistake of forgetting about the cooling system. Although antifreeze or water does not require oil preservation in the same sense, it is important to drain the remaining water from the cooling shirt if storage is expected at negative temperatures. For internal cavities where moisture may have entered, you can use a water-repellent spray, but the main focus should be on oil.
The procedure is as follows: the spark plugs are twisted out, and a dose of preservative (usually 10-15 ml) is injected into each cylinder. After that, the engine is scrolled several times by the starter (without a spark) so that the oil mist covers the cylinder walls and rings. The candles are twisted back, creating a sealed environment inside the engine.
When preserving the 4T engine, be sure to mark the spark plugs or decompose them in the order of the cylinders, so that when assembled in the spring, you do not confuse the length of the thread and the potassium number.
Comparative table of popular preservatives
The choice of a particular brand often depends on availability and personal preferences, but the specifications of different products can differ significantly.
| Brand/Product | Basis | Term of protection | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Yamalube Storage Seal | Mineral oil | Up to 12 months. | Especially for 2T motors, high adhesion |
| Liqui Moly Motor Innenkonservierer | Synthetics | Up to 2 years | Heat-resistant film, suitable for 4T |
| Mercury Quicksilver Storage Seal | Mineral mixture | Season (6-8 months) | Optimal for off-season storage |
| Hi-Gear HG5532 | Synthetic | Up to 12 months. | Contains corrosion inhibitors, universal |
When choosing, pay attention to compatibility with materials. Some aggressive solvents in cheap sprays can adversely affect rubber omentation and gaskets, causing them to swell or crack. Operating temperature range Also important: if the boat is stored in an unheated hangar at -30°C, the composition should not thicken to a paraffin state.
Common mistakes in winter storage
Even with a high-quality spray, you can nullify your efforts if you break the preparation technology, and one of the most common mistakes is to preserve a dirty engine, and dust and abrasive particles that fall under the preservative layer will turn into a grinding paste in the spring, accelerating the wear and tear of the rubbing parts.
Also, the need to change oil before canning in 4T engines is often ignored. Acids accumulated in waste oil during the season continue to destroy liners and bearings even at rest, change the oil in the fall, immediately after the last release, and add a preservative or process cylinders to pure oil.
⚠️ Warning: Never store the outboard motor upright on a propeller or a lower unit unless otherwise specified in the instructions, which may lead to oil leaking into the combustion chamber or, conversely, dry start of bearings.
Another critical aspect is protecting the outer surfaces. While you're working the insides, don't forget to spray the preservative spray on the exposed metal parts: gear shift rods, anchorages, bolts. Salt water or just river moisture will do its dirty trick in the winter, and in the spring you'll have to spend hours unscrewing the boiling nuts.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can I use ordinary solidol or litol to preserve cylinders?
No, it's a bad idea. Thick lubricants don't have the penetrating power to evenly cover the cylinder mirror and piston rings, and they'll be extremely difficult to wash in the spring, and you can get oil bumps or smokes when you start them up. Use only liquid spray preservatives.
Do I need to unscrew the candles after injecting the preservative?
After the canning procedure, it is better to spin the candle back to ensure that the combustion chamber is tight and prevents dust and moisture from entering the cylinder through the candle hole, but if you plan to store the engine for a very long time, you can grease the candle threads with graphite lubricant.
How much spray is needed for one engine?
For a standard two-stroke engine with a capacity of up to 15 hp, usually one short injection (3-5 seconds) into each cylinder or intake pipe is enough. For four-stroke engines, the volume can be greater, about 10-20 ml per cylinder, depending on the working volume. Always read the instructions on the cylinder.
Is the preservative dangerous for the ignition system?
Modern sprays are dielectrics and do not conduct current, so short-term contact with the coil or candle tips is not terrible, but it is advisable to avoid direct contact with the jet on electrical connectors and high-voltage wires, so as not to wash away the factory lubrication contacts.
The main secret of a long life of the engine is not so much the brand of oil, but the regularity and correctness of the procedure of conservation before each period of downtime.