The approach of the cold season poses an inevitable question for every boat owner: how to keep the boat in perfect condition until the next navigation? Traditional methods of sheltering with awnings often prove insufficiently effective, allowing moisture, dust and rodents to pass through, which can lead to spoilage of upholstery and mold. shrinkage It becomes the standard of professional conservation, providing a sealed βcocoonβ around your vessel.
Modern technology allows you to create a reliable barrier against all weather conditions, whether it is aggressive ultraviolet light, heavy rain or heavy snow loads. Unlike tarpaulin covers, polymer film tightly fits the hull, without creating pockets for accumulation of water and without slamming in the wind. PVC inflatable boatsProviding them with a safe winter.
In this article, we will discuss in detail all the stages of preparation and tightening, help you choose the right material and avoid common mistakes. microperforation So it's important for ventilation, and how to calculate the amount of film that you need to keep from buying too much, and good preservation is an investment in the durability of your property.
Advantages of using a thermal shrink film
The main advantage of the technology is the creation of a fully sealed space, the film tightly tightening the body, eliminates the ingress of moisture, which, when frozen and thawed, destroys the finishing materials and contributes to the corrosion of metal elements. Plastic film High density (HDP) has high mechanical strength, which makes it resistant to ruptures and punctures.
Another important aspect is protection from ultraviolet radiation: high-quality preservation material contains special additives that block the harmful effects of the sun, which over long months of parking can fade gelcoat or PVC fabric. This is especially true for boats stored in open, unshaded areas.
β οΈ Warning: Film without UV stabilizers under the influence of the sun can become fragile and crack by mid-winter, losing its protective properties.
Although the initial investment in materials seems expensive, the cost of preservation is much lower than repairing a damaged interior or restoring a gelcoat after winter, and a properly preserved boat in spring requires minimal effort to prepare for its launch.
Selection of materials: film, profiles and tools
The success of the whole operation depends on the quality of the materials selected. shrink-filmIt's a squishy, compressed when heated, tightly fitting the complex geometric shapes of the hull. Boats typically use material between 150 and 250 microns thick. A thinner film may not withstand snow loads, and a thick film that is too expensive and difficult to install.
The mounting system is critical, and the mounting structure and tension points are built with special profiles, such as welded pens, J profiles or cable systems, and the type of mounting depends on the design of the boat and the material from which the boat is made. hair dryer with a controlled temperature, since a normal household will not be able to provide the necessary flow of hot air for shrinkage.
What is microperforation?
Microperforation is the presence of microscopic holes in the film that prevent water and snow from leaking, but allow water vapor molecules to escape, which prevents condensation under the film from forming, which could lead to mold and unpleasant odor.
The list of necessary tools also includes:
- π₯ Industrial dryer with a capacity of 1600 W (required with a temperature control function).
- βοΈ Sharp scissors or a construction knife for cutting material.
- π§Ή Brush and degreaser for surface preparation before sticking profiles.
- π§Ά Slings or ventilation pipes to create reference points inside the perimeter.
Donβt skimp on consumables. Cheap film can have an uneven structure, which will lead to tears when shrinking. Professionals recommend using products of well-known brands specializing in marine accessories, as their composition is optimized for work in aggressive aquatic environments.
Preparation of the boat for winter conservation
Before you start stretching, you need to carefully prepare the vessel itself, which is a step that you can't ignore, because any left inside objects or moisture can cause problems by spring. The first thing you need to do is wash the boat from dirt, salt and organic residue. After washing, the hull must dry completely.
Inside the cockpit, you should do an audit, and all removable elements that may be affected by temperature or humidity changes should be removed and carried away to the heat, including navigation electronics, removable seats, pillows and personal belongings. Engine conservation It must also be carried out separately according to the manufacturer's instructions if the motor remains on the transom.
It's important to have internal ventilation. Even with microperforations, you want to leave the air ducts, you can use special ventilation pipes, or you can just create a volume with spacers so that the film does not fit close to the sensual elements of the interior. Also make sure that all the windows and hatches are tightly closed.
βοΈ Checklist of preparations
The final step is to install the internal supports. The film should lie on the frame, not hang freely. If the boat's design does not provide for internal bulkheads, install temporary racks or inflate cylinders (for PVC boats) to create volume. This will prevent material from sagging under the weight of snow.
Installation technology: step-by-step instructions
The tightening process requires precision and temperature control, first, the fasteners are placed on the board, and if you use a cable system, the brackets are glued or twisted around the perimeter of the boat in increments of about 30-40 cm, and a cable is put in them, which will keep the film in a tight state.
Then you cut it, and then you cut it off with a margin, so it covers the sides with a margin of 15 to 20 cm on all sides, and a piece of material covers the boat on top, and then the shrinkage process begins. hair dryerHeat the film with uniform motions. Don't keep the hair dryer in one place for long so you don't burn through the material.
β οΈ Attention! The optimum shrinkage temperature is usually 90-120 degrees Celsius, and exceeding the temperature will cause the film to deform and rupture, and insufficient heating will not give the desired tension.
Once the film has sat down and stretched, you need to fix the bottom of the film, the edges are pressed to the board with a special profile or taped, and then the excess is trimmed, and it is important to monitor the angles and complex shapes, which is where most often folds are formed, which need to be carefully straightened with a hairdryer.
Use a long telescopic hair dryer handle or ask an assistant to warm up the tops of the boat evenly without the risk of damaging the material with excessive heat from close range.
Comparison of Conservation Methods
To make sure that you are choosing a shrink, letβs compare this method to traditional awning shelters, and the table below shows the key differences in the main parameters of winter operation.
| Parameter | shrink film | Canvas awning | Open storage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tightness | 100% (monolithic cocoon) | Partial (depends on the fastener) | Missing. |
| Snow protection | High (snow rolls) | Medium (requires slings) | Low. |
| Ventilation | Natural (microperforation) | Requires the organization of the spirits | Free |
| Shelter life | Season 1 (one-off) | 3-5 seasons | - |
As you can see from the comparison, the awning wins in reusability, but loses in protection and ease of installation, while the film provides maximum protection in one session, but requires annual renewal. For owners of expensive boats or boats wintering in harsh climatic conditions, the choice often falls on the one hand. single-handed.
Open storage without shelter is only allowed for boats made of unpainted aluminum or special sea alloys, and then with the risk of accumulation of dirt and bird droppings, which is difficult to wash in the spring.
Dismantling and recycling after wintering
When the heat sets in, usually in April or May, it's time to remove the shield, and the removal is much quicker and easier than the installation. You'll need a sharp knife or special film cutters. Start cutting the material from the top, making long cuts so that large pieces of film don't fall sharply on the body.
Carefully remove the cut parts and roll them up. Although the film is considered disposable, if carefully dismantled, it can be reused for the same boat for another season, unless there are serious tears on it.
Proper dismantling avoids damage to the paintwork of the boat by the sharp edges of the plastic being cut, so work carefully and do not pull the film with force.
The recycling issue is acute. Polyethylene is the second type of plastic (DPE/DPE) that is recycled. Don't throw huge pieces of film into a conventional container. Collect the material, take it to special reception points or recycling plants, if you have such a system in place in your area.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can you use a conventional construction film instead of a specialized one?
Technically possible, but not recommended: The building film has no UV stabilizers and will quickly collapse in the sun, and may also lack microperforation, leading to condensation and mold formation inside the boat.
Will the heat shrink the strong wind and snow?
Yes, if the installation technology is followed and the material is of suitable thickness (from 180 ΞΌm) the film works like a drum: it is stretched and distributes the load, however, for regions with extreme snowfall, it is recommended to install additional internal supports.
Do I need to completely relieve the pressure in the PVC tubes of the boat before shrinking?
No, you don't have to release the pressure. On the contrary, the boat has to be pumped to a working pressure or a little less pressure to keep its shape, and the film creates an outer frame, but the internal pressure of the cylinders is necessary to keep the geometry of the bottom and the sides.
How to calculate the amount of film per boat?
The formula is simple: boat length + 2 heights of the side + margin on the ends (about 1-1.5 meters). The width of the film should cover the width of the boat with a margin for overhangs. It is better to take film with a margin of 10-15% in case of errors when cutting.