Every owner of the boat sooner or later faces a mandatory registration procedure with the GIMS, which results in the assignment of a unique alphanumeric code. To apply these symbols on board must be clearly, smoothly and in accordance with the regulations to avoid problems when checking documents on the water. stencilIt guarantees compliance with all technical requirements for the font and proportions.
The quality of the markings directly affects not only the aesthetics of your vessel, but also its readability by emergency services. Self-made templates saves budget and make sure that each millimeter will meet your expectations. In this article, we will detail all the subtleties of creating and using stencils to make your license plate look flawless.
The numbering process is often underestimated, relying on simple stickers that fade and peel off quickly. The use of paint and quality stencil ensures longevity of markings that are resistant to salt water, ultraviolet light and mechanical damage. must-have The procedure for any responsible boat owner.
GIMS requirements for the application of side numbers
Before you start cutting the template, you need to clearly understand what standards are set by the state inspection, the Regulation strictly defines the size of the symbols, their proportions and the location on board, ignoring which can lead to fines. 150 millimeters, and width - 100 millimeters, while the thickness of the font lines is fixed at the level of 15-30 mm.
The distance between the signs and the indentation from the edge of the side are also not arbitrary values. The number must be read from a distance of at least 100 meters, which dictates the need for contrasting colors and clear boundaries, usually white on a dark background of the side or black on a light, which ensures maximum visibility.
⚠️ Attention: The use of serif fonts or decorative elements in the license plate is strictly prohibited. Only standard chopped font is allowed without unnecessary curls.
It is important to note that the number consists of two letter and four numeric symbols, followed by the region code, all of which must be applied in a single block with respect to inter-signal intervals, and the violation of geometry can be regarded by the inspector as an attempt to hide or change the registration data.
To create an accurate layout, you often use computer graphics to set precise parameters in millimeters, which allows you to see in advance what the markings will look like on a particular section of the side of your boat, which minimizes the risk of error when you transfer the image to the stencil material.
Selection of material for the manufacture of stencils
The durability and usability of your template is directly dependent on what you make of, and the most popular and affordable material is a dense film, like stencils, or a self-adhesive base, which is perfectly cut, fits tightly to the surface, and allows you to make a reusable marking tool.
For tougher designs, especially if multiple use is planned on different boats, craftsmen choose plastic 0.5-1 mm thick or dense cardboard with lamination. Plastic is good because it does not absorb paint and is easy to wash, but requires a sharper tool for cutting. Cardboard is cheaper, but its resource is limited to several applications, after which the edges begin to rag.
- 🎨 self-adhesive film - Ideal for creating reusable stencils that can be glued directly onto the board, painted and removed, getting the perfect outline.
- ✂️ Tight polyethylene (file folders) - a budget option that is easy to find in any stationery store, keeps the shape well when tidy cutting.
- 🛡️ lausanne or polyester Professional solvent resistant materials if you plan to use aggressive paints.
When choosing a material, consider the type of paint you plan to use. If it is an aerosol, a thin film will do, but for brush and thick enamel, it is better to take the material thicker so that it does not get wet and deformed in the process. It is also important that the base is matte or rough, otherwise the paint can flow under the edges.
Where can I buy special film?
Specialized stencil film (such as Oracal or analogues) can be found in advertising stores, printing houses or online. Often sold in A4 or A3 sheets, which is enough for a single room.
Tools and workplace preparation
The quality of stencil cutting depends not only on the material, but also on the right tool. Conventional scissors are not suitable here, because they can not make smooth inner corners and thin jumpers. The main tool will be a stationery or construction knife with interchangeable blades, which should be perfectly sharp.
To make it work, you need a hard, flat surface that you can damage, a piece of orgalit, glass or a special cutting mat, and the substrate should be clean and fat-free, so that the stencil material does not slip during the cutting process.
The necessary set of tools:1. Stationery knife with reserve of blades
Metal ruler (for straight lines)
3. Tweezers (to remove small details)
4 Marker or pencil
Degreasing agent (alcohol or acetone)
The design process is critical, and if you don't have graphics editors, you can find the template online and print it out at 1:1 scale, and then you use it as a substrate, you put transparent stencil material on top, or you just cut holes in the paper if you want to use it once.
Pay special attention to the "liners" - the sections of material that connect the inner parts of the letters (for example, in the letters "A", "B", "P", "8", "9", "0"). Without these bars, the inside of the letter will simply fall out, and instead of the sign you will get an empty hole. In professional stencils, these bridges make them minimally thin so that they do not catch the eye on the finished number.
☑️ Ready to cut
Step-by-step instructions for manufacturing DIY
The process of creating starts with printing or rendering the layout. Make sure the printer doesn't distort the proportions -- scale with a ruler. If you're using a self-adhesive film, paste it onto a piece of printer paper (the base) so it doesn't crumple when you print, then print it directly on the film.
Once printed, fasten the material to the substrate with paint tape to avoid any slight bias. Start cutting with the insides of the letters, if any, moving the knife smoothly and turning the material slightly, not the blade. The movements must be confident, without much pressure, so as not to cut through the substrate and make ripped edges.
| Element of the number | Features of cutting | Expert council |
|---|---|---|
| Letters (2 pcs) | They need attention to the lintels. | Leave the jumpers a little wider than necessary, excess will be removed when painting |
| Numbers (4 pcs) | Many closed circuits (0, 4, 6, 8, 9) | The inner islands of the numbers 4, 6, 9 can not be cut out, if they do not interfere with the digits. |
| Region code | Small font size | Use a scalpel or a very sharp knife tip for accuracy |
When all the contours are cut, carefully remove the cut-out parts. For small elements, use tweezers or a knife tip. If you have worked with self-adhesives on a paper basis, you can now unstick the film from the paper. The finished stencil is recommended to be tested on a draft to ensure the integrity of all the jumpers.
⚠️ Attention: When cutting, never keep the material on weight. Always lean the blade on a hard surface to avoid slipping and hand injuries.
Technology of applying a number on board the boat
The most important thing is to put the image on board. The surface should be perfectly clean, dry and fat-free. Wipe the application area with alcohol or a special degreaser to remove dust, fat and silicone traces that can interfere with paint adhesion.
Set the stencil on board. If it's self-adhesive, just smooth it from center to edge, pushing out the air bubbles. If you use regular plastic or cardboard, securely attach it with paint tape around the perimeter, ensuring that the edges fit tightly, any slit will lead to leaking paint and fuzzy borders.
For painting, it is best to use aerosol cans with nitro-enamell or specialized paints for PVC. Apply the paint in short, light movements, creating a thin fog. Don’t try to paint the room the first time. - it is better to make 2-3 thin layers with intermediate drying in 5-10 minutes than to get the leaks.
You need to remove the stencil immediately after the last layer is applied, without waiting for the paint to dry completely. If the paint manages to grasp and form a film at the edges of the slots, when you remove the stencil, it can stretch and spoil the smooth line of the edge of the sign. The movement when you remove it should be smooth, at an angle of 90 degrees to the surface of the board.
Use a dishwashing sponge instead of a brush. If you're using a brush instead of a spray, press the stencil slightly to the side of the board during the painting process so that the paint doesn't leak under it.
Marking Care and Typical Errors
A properly applied number lasts for years, but requires minimal maintenance. After each trip, especially on salt water, the boat is recommended to be rinsed with fresh water. This will prevent corrosion (on metal boats) and the destruction of the paint structure from salt crystals.
One of the most common mistakes is to choose the wrong color of the paint. White on white or black on dark blue side will make the number unreadable. Always provide high contrast. Also, it is a mistake to apply the number to the seam or fold of material where the paint will crack quickly when bending.
- 🌊 Environmental impact: Ultraviolet and salt water are the main enemies of any labeling, so choose paints marked "Marine" or "PPVC".
- 🧼 Aggressive chemistry: When washing a boat, avoid getting strong solvents directly to the room, use soft detergents.
- 🔧 Mechanics: When pumping and blowing the boat, try not to rub the number on clothes or foreign objects, so as not to tear off the layer of paint.
If you notice that the paint has started to crack, don't wait for the room to disappear completely. Prepare the surface, hide the damaged area with fine sandpaper and gently paint it using the same stencil or making a mask of scotch. Timely repairs will prolong the life of the marking.
The secret to the durability of the room is not only quality paint, but also thorough degreasing of the surface before application. 90% of the problems with peeling arise from poor preparation of the board.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use regular Scotch to fix the stencil?
Use of regular stationery tape is not recommended, as it can leave sticky marks that are difficult to wash, or even damage the surface of the board when peeling off. It is best to use a special paint tape that leaves no trace of glue and is easily removed.
What is the best paint to paint a room on a PVC boat?
The best choice is aerosol nitroemals or special PVC paints (for example, KUDO, Motip or specialized lines for inflatable boats) They are elastic and do not crack when the material is deformed.
Do I need to cover the room with varnish after drying?
In most cases, additional varnishing is not required if high-quality weatherproof paint is used. However, applying a clear acrylic varnish can add an additional layer of protection against ultraviolet light and mechanical damage, extending the life of the marking.
What to do if the paint is stenciled?
If the leakage occurs, wait for the paint to dry completely. Then take a cotton swab dipped in a solvent (carefully so as not to erase the main number), and try to remove the excess. In the future, use thinner layers of paint and press the stencil tightly.