Modern fishing is unthinkable without technical control of the underwater environment, and even owners of compact inflatable boats are trying to equip them with navigation electronics. sonar PVC is a critical step in the depth readings and the presence of "dead zones" when scanning the bottom. mounting errors often lead to stream disruptions, noise on the screen and the inability to see the fish or relief at high speed.
Unlike rigid hulls, the soft side and the trayboard of an inflatable boat dictate their operating conditions, requiring a special approach to the choice of fasteners and the laying of wires. Sonar sensorA stainless one, fixed incorrectly, can cause the loss of expensive equipment or even damage the balloon during careless maneuvering near the shore.
In this article, we will discuss in detail the process of selecting a location, methods of reliable fixation of the emitter and ways to protect the cable track. You will learn how to avoid the common mistakes that beginners make when they first become familiar with fishing electronics. A properly configured system will allow you to feel confident on the water, getting a clear picture of the bottom even when you are excited.
Choosing the optimal place for installation on the transom
The first and most important step is to determine the anchorage point where the water flow will be most laminar, without vortices and air bubbles. On the transom of a PVC boat, the clean flow zone is usually in the center part or with a shift to one of the sides, depending on the configuration of the keel and the location of the engine. transducer in the zone of turbulence created by the engine screw or irregularities of the transom board, the device will show chaotic depth values or completely lose the signal.
⚠️ Attention: Do not place the sensor in close proximity to the engine water intake, as air bubbles emitted by the pump are guaranteed to knock down the sonar at shallow depths.
The location also has to be considered inflated, and it often happens that when the boat is fully pumped, the side arches slightly, changing the angle of the transom, which can lead to the sensor touching the water or, conversely, to its exit from the stream. The optimum distance from the bottom of the boat to the center of the radiating surface of the sensor should be at least 5-10 mm in the submerged state.avoiding impacts on the bottom, but ensuring contact with water.
You need to do a pre-fitting by putting the device on the transom and visually evaluating the trajectory of the boat. It is important to make sure that during the wave or roll, the sensor will not emerge from the water, creating gaps in the display of the echogram. Inflatable boats are characterized by a shift in the center of gravity, so the testing is better done with a full load, simulating real fishing with crew and equipment.
Required tools and materials for the job
The quality of installation depends on the preparation and availability of specialized materials designed to work with PVC and electronics in an aqueous environment. Standard kit homemaker may not be suitable, as conventional adhesives and sealants are often destroyed by ultraviolet and salt water. For reliable fixation, you will need to purchase special components that ensure the durability of the structure.
The basis of the kit is a waterproof sealant on a polyurethane or silicone basis, labeled for PVC and plastic. Conventional sanitary silicone can eventually detach from the smooth surface of the transmachine board, especially if it is laminated plywood, and you will also need screeds-homuths made of nylon with protection from UV radiation, which do not crack in the sun in the first season.
- 🔧 Tools: drill with drills on wood and metal, a set of screwdrivers, scissors, passages.
- 🧴 Chemistry: degreasing agent (alcohol or acetone), glue for PVC, sealant for marine applications.
- 🧵 Expenditure: tape, shrink tubes, cable channels or corrugated to protect the wire.
- 📏 Markings: marker, ruler, level (to check the horizon).
We need to focus on the cable route. sonar It should not be hung or lying on the floor, where it can accidentally damage a sharp object or step on. Using a corrugated tube or a special cable channel will protect the insulation from rubbing against the edge of the transom board and cylinders when blowing-inflating the boat.
☑️ Installation readiness check
The way to fix: rigid and removable
PVC boat owners often face the dilemma of sticking the sensor tightly or using a removable version. Hard installation on glue and sealant provides maximum stability of readings, as it eliminates any vibrations and displacements during operation. This method is ideal for those who use the boat mainly in one region and do not plan frequent transportation with a full dismantling of equipment.
Removable brackets or rods give you flexibility to use. You can easily remove the sensor after fishing, dry it and put it in a box, which prolongs the life of the electronics. However, these systems have a disadvantage - sailing and the risk of hooking on algae or driftwood, which can lead to loss of the sensor or damage to the transom during a jerk.
⚠️ Attention: When using removable brackets, be sure to use a safety rope tied to a transom so that when hitting an obstacle, the sensor does not fly into the water irrevocably.
There's a trade-off, which is to be mounted on a rotary mechanism or a sled attached to a transom, which allows you to adjust the depth of the dive and the angle of the inclination. transducer Suction cups are also popular for inflatable boats, but their reliability depends heavily on the quality of the surface of the transom board and the water temperature.
Step-by-step instructions for installing the sensor
The installation process begins with a thorough surface preparation, the trans board must be cleaned of dirt, sand and oils, then wiped with a degreasing agent. If you choose the method of gluing, apply a layer of sealant to the mounting area of the sensor and press it tightly to the selected place on the transom, ensuring that the glue is evenly distributed.
To fix the wire, use plastic clips or clamps, placing them every 15-20 cm along the path of the cable to the board. The wire should not be pulled like a string, a small margin of length is needed to compensate for the strain of the cylinders when pressure and temperature change. When passing through the side or transom, use special sealants or carefully seal the hole.
| Work phase | Action. | Important nuance |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Markings | Definition of the centre and line of the keel | Symmetry is important for stability |
| Preparation | Degreasing and cleaning | Use only compatible chemistry |
| 3. Installation | Glue application and fixation | To withstand the polymerization time (24 hours) |
| 4. Cable | Wire laying and fastening | Avoid sharp corners and inflections |
Once installed, the sealant must be completely dryed according to the manufacturer's instructions, which usually takes 12 to 24 hours. Only after complete polymerization can the boat be launched for testing. Attempting to launch the boat early can cause the sensor to shift and the connection to become leaky.
Customization of depth and combating interference
After physical installation, the process of software tuning of the sonar begins, first of all, you need to install the correct type of sensor in the device menu, if it is not automatically determined, then you need to calibrate the sound speed, which depends on the salinity and temperature of the water, although for most freshwater bodies, standard factory settings are suitable.
A common problem is the appearance of "noise" on the screen, which mask useful information, this can be caused by the operation of the second sonar nearby, engine interference or improper sensitivity. Gain Sensitivity allows you to cut off weak signals, leaving only clear reflections from the bottom and fish.
If you see vertically intermittent lines on the screen, it indicates cavitation or air entering the sensor, in which case you need to lower the sensor slightly deeper into the water or change its angle of inclination relative to the horizontal, sometimes helping to install an additional fairing or change the speed of the boat.
Maintenance and care of the echolocation system
Operating electronics in harsh conditions requires regular attention. After every fishing trip, especially in salt water, the sensor and cable must be washed with fresh water to remove salt and dirt. The accumulation of salt deposits on the emitter can significantly degrade the signal quality and lead to corrosion of contacts.
Periodically check the condition of fasteners and sealants. Ultraviolet and temperature changes make materials brittle over time. If you notice cracks in the sensor body or leakage of the cable, repair or replace immediately, as water entering the device is fatal.
With long-term boat storage deflated, it is recommended to dismantle the sensor if possible, or provide it with protection from compression and breakage. Storing electronics at extremely low or high temperatures is also undesirable and can shorten the life of the battery and display of the head unit.
Can you install a sonar inside a boat without drilling a transom?
Yes, there are models that are internal, but they only work with fiberglass or aluminum shells. For PVC boats with inflatable bottoms, this method is ineffective, because the air in the bottom and cylinders blocks ultrasound. The sensor must be in contact with water.
How does the speed of the boat affect the sonar readings?
At high speeds (over 15-20 km/h for PVC boats), a cavitation bubble forms under the sensor, which screens the signal. High-speed scanning requires special streamlined sensors installed strictly along the stream.
Do I need to remove the sensor before the season?
You don't need to lubricate the emitter itself, it will worsen contact with water, but the moving parts of the rotating mechanisms and hubs are recommended to be treated with silicone lubrication to prevent acidification and corrosion.
What if the sounder shows a double bottom?
The double bottom effect often occurs when there is high sensitivity on a solid bottom or when there is a thermocline. Try reducing sensitivity (Gain) or changing the scanning frequency (from 200 kHz to 83 kHz or vice versa) to remove the phantom reflection.