The inflatable outboard boat is much more comfortable and safer when the operator has full traction control. The regular tiller handle, located directly on the engine's lower unit, often requires the boater to exert constant muscle tension and prevents him from taking a comfortable position. remote control installation on a PVC boat It is one of the most popular types of tuning among water-engines, and it is not just a matter of comfort, but also an element of safety, allowing you to control the vessel more confidently in difficult weather conditions or when maneuvering.
The modernization process requires careful preparation, the right choice of components and adherence to the installation technology. Errors during the design phase can lead to rope jamming, corrosion of elements or even accidents on the water. In this article, we will discuss all the nuances of choosing a gas machine, the features of laying cables on the sides of inflatable tubes and the electrical circuitry for connecting the reverse gear. You will learn how to turn motor control into a light lever movement, while maintaining the reliability of the entire system.
Before you start, you need to decide what kind of mechanism. For PVC boats, the most common type of machine is a side or top lever that is attached to the transom or the side. The most important parameter here is the length of the cables, which should correspond to the distance from the place of installation of the remote control to the carburetor and the valve reverse of your particular engine. Incorrect calculation will result in the engine not being able to develop full power or, on the contrary, will operate at increased idle speed.
Selection of equipment: machine, cables and remote
The basis of the entire system is a mechanical control unit, often called a “gas machine”. For inflatable boats, it is critical to choose models made of materials resistant to salt water and ultraviolet. Aluminum alloys with anode coating or quality plastic are the best choice. Metal parts without protection will quickly become unusable under the influence of an aggressive environment. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the sliding bearings inside the mechanism, since they are the ones that experience the greatest load when switching modes.
The second key element is steering-lineThey fall into two types: a gas cable (usually single-stranded or with a small number of rods) and a reverse cable (multi-stranded, more flexible). The cables are selected with a margin of 15-20% of real distance to avoid tension "into the string" that can damage the membrane of the carburetor. The rigidity of the cable also matters: too soft cable can "walk" inside the braid, creating a backlash of the lever, and too rigid will require a lot of effort to control.
⚠️ Attention: Never use speedometer cables or car brake cables as a replacement for specialized sea cables. They don't have the necessary water protection and can rust from the inside in one season, causing the engine to jam at full speed.
When choosing a kit, you should pay attention to the presence of a built-in system to protect against accidental switching on of the gear (Cut-off system or similar), this will prevent a sharp jerk of the boat if you accidentally hit the lever. Some models also have an emergency stop button ("death button"), which closes the ignition circuit when pulling a check. PVC It is much safer, especially when carrying children or inexperienced passengers.
Definition of installation site and preparation of the transom
Planning the placement of the control panel is a step that cannot be ignored. On a PVC boat, space is limited, and the cylinders create an additional volume that needs to be considered. The optimal place for the installation of the gas machine is on the starboard side, closer to the transom, but with the goal that the lever does not rest on the inflated cylinder as it goes back. The distance from the mounting point to the motor should be the minimum possible to reduce the length of the cables, but sufficient for a convenient landing of the operator.
The remote is mounted either directly to the wooden transom (if the design permits) or on a remote bracket. Inflatable boats often use special aluminum profiles that are attached to stringers or dural flooring. It is important to ensure the rigidity of the design: the lever should not “walk” with the remote when changing gears. If the transom is soft or small in thickness, a wide stainless steel or textolite response plate is necessarily installed on the back side to distribute the load.
Before drilling holes, you need to make markings. Use the building level to make sure the remote is installed vertically. Distortion of the mechanism can lead to uneven wear of the inner gears and snag of the cables. You should also provide access to the bottom of the remote for laying cables and wires. In some cases, you need to cut the technological window in the transponder or use overhead cable channels.
When marking holes on the transom, use a core to create a depression under the drill, which will prevent the drill from slipping and damage the coating of the transom or deck.
Mechanical installation and laying of cables
Installation begins with the control panel itself, and once it's securely attached, we move to the most critical step, which is the cables, and the cables must go from the remote to the motor as straight as possible, without any sharp bends or twists. The minimum bend radius for most sea cables is 15 to 20 cm. Violation of this rule will lead to rapid destruction of the inner structure of the cable and the emergence of "lambs" that will block movement.
In PVC boats, cables are usually laid on the outer or inner contour of the cylinder. In external installation (stringer), cables must be securely clamped so that they do not hang around or cling to clothing or gear. In internal installation (between sides and decking), it is important to ensure that the cables do not clamped by structural elements when pressure changes in cylinders or passengers board. Using corrugated tubes or spiral braids to protect the cables from abrasion on board is a great idea.
Connecting the cables to the motor requires care. The gas cable connects to the throttle lever and the reverse cable connects to the gearshift mechanism. At the end of the cables there are threaded tips with counternuts. Adjusting the length of the tip allows you to adjust the "neutral" and full gas. It is important that in the extreme positions of the lever the cable does not rest on the limiters with force, but has a small free travel (back) of 1-2 mm. This will prevent the spontaneous opening of the valve or switching from vibration.
☑️ Checklist of mechanical installation
Electrical circuit and ignition connection
If your gas machine is equipped with an electrical part (start button, emergency switch, indicators), you will need a competent connection of wiring. The main rule of electrical installation on water is maximum tightness of all connections. Water, especially salt water, is an excellent electrolyte and quickly causes electrocorrosion of contacts. All twists should be excluded; use only soldered with subsequent insulation with adhesive layer or special sea terminals.
The circuit usually involves breaking the ignition circuit (kill switch). When pulling the check, the circuit breaks, and the engine stops. If there is a starter button, it connects parallel to or instead of the standard button on the tiller. Tohatsu or Yamaha The wires should be stacked in a separate corrugated or cable channel, away from fuel hoses and moving parts.
For control circuits (ignition, signals) a section of 0.75-1.5 mm2 is sufficient, but for starter chains (if the button is displayed on the remote), the section must be at least 4-6 mm2 to avoid voltage drop and heating. All wires passing through the holes in the transom should be protected by rubber bushings or sealant to prevent rubbing the insulation against the edge of the metal.
| Component | Recommended wire cross-section | Type of isolation | Protection |
|---|---|---|---|
| The ignition circuit (Kill switch) | 0.75 - 1.0 mm2 | Silicone/PVC | Safety 5A |
| Starter button | 4.0 - 6.0 mm2 | Oil-resistant | Safety 30-50A |
| Indicators/Lighting | 0.5 - 0.75 mm2 | PVC | Safety 3A |
| Grounding (Mass) | 4.0 - 6.0 mm2 | PVC | No (direct to engine) |
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to lay electrical cables in the immediate vicinity of fuel hoses and carburetors. Sparks in poor contact can lead to ignition of gasoline vapors. The minimum distance between the electrical wiring and the fuel system is 15 cm.
Adjustment and configuration of the system
Once all the mechanical and electrical components are in place, there's a fine-tuning phase. First, check the cables on the shut-down motor. The lever must go all the way from Stop to Full Gas and from Back to Front smoothly, with moderate force. In the neutral position, the lever must be fixed clearly. If you feel "wattiness" or, conversely, the rope is pulled like a string, you need to adjust the length of the cable tips.
The next step is to test the carburetor, and if the throttle is fully open (the lever of the gas in its extreme position), the throttle of the carburetor must open completely, but not with force to the limiter. Failure to open the throttle will prevent the engine from developing full power, and the stress can lead to deformation of the carburetor thrust. Similarly, the reverse mechanism is checked: the switch must occur with a characteristic click, and the coupling must be fully engaged.
What if the cables are sagging in a month?
Normal shrinkage of cables is a natural process. The inner cable can stretch a little, and the braid can tighten. To eliminate the sagging, loosen the counternut on the tip of the cable, twist the threaded part, select the slack, and tighten the counternut again. Don't pull!
The electrical part is checked by simulating an emergency. Pull out the safety check - the engine must stall (or not start when you try to start). If the starter button is installed, check its operation: the starter must rotate confidently. If the engine stalls when you press the gas or behaves unstable, check whether the gas cable touches other elements of the structure and whether the idle screw is correctly configured.
Security and maintenance of the mechanism
The installation of the DR is not a one-time action, but the beginning of regular maintenance. After each release, especially on salt water, the mechanism should be rinsed with fresh water. The salt, getting into the moving parts of the gas machine, crystallizes and works as an abrasive, accelerating wear. Once a season, it is recommended to disassemble the remote (if the design allows), clean the old lubricant and apply a new one designed for marine equipment (for example, lithium lubricant with corrosion additives).
Regularly inspect the condition of the cables. The braid should not have scuffs, and the inside on the bends - protruding wires. If you notice that the lever force has increased, this is the first sign of problems inside the cable or bushings. Lubricating the cables with special aerosols (for example, WD-40 Specialist Silicone or cable analogues) prolongs their life, but does not replace replacement when you wear it out. Remember, failure to operate at full speed is a direct threat to life.
Also check the remote mounting to the transom. Motor vibration can gradually weaken even well-tightened bolts. Using engrovers or a sealant for threading (anaerobic fixture) during installation will help to avoid this problem. Remember to check the integrity of the insulation of the wires, especially at the exit of the remote control and entrance to the engine compartment.
To lubricate the cables, use a special spout on the aerosol balloon, insert the tube into the cable braid at both ends, and briefly press the valve, which will deliver the lubricant to the inside where it is most needed.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I install remote control on a two-stroke motor without an electric starter?
Yes, you can. The mechanical part (gas and reverse cables) is installed regardless of the electric starter, the electrical part (start button) in this case is not connected, but the emergency stop function (check) and the ability to set indicators are retained.
How long do you need for a 3.5 meter long boat?
For a boat 3.5 meters long, 3 meters (10 feet) long cables are usually enough. However, always measure the distance at the place of the gasket with a margin. Standard kits often come with a length of 3 m or 4.5 m. It is better to take with a margin and roll the excess into a ring than to detect a shortage of 10 cm at a critical moment.
Do I need to remove the tiller handle after installing the DU?
Remove the hummel completely is not necessary, but it is recommended. The SD mechanism is connected to the motor with cables, and the rummel remains connected to them. If you remove the hummel, you will still be able to control the motor manually in the event of a cable break (on some models), but more often the rummel is simply fixed in neutral or dismantled for aesthetics and convenience, since control through the SD is more convenient.
Why did the gas machine lever become tight after a week?
It's probably water with sand or dirt, or the factory lubricant has dried up, and it could be because the cables were being pulled up during installation, you had to take the machine apart, you had to wash it with gasoline or kerosene, you had to dry it and you had to put in a new, consistent lubricant, and you had to check the cables for clumps.
Can I use car cables for a outboard motor?
Highly discouraged: Car cables (e.g. carburetor) lack the necessary protection against corrosion and the specific pitch of the carving tips. In marine environments, they will rust in a month. Use only specialized cables marked with the markings. BIA or similar, intended for marine use.