Operating an outboard motor without high-quality remote control (DU) is not only inconvenient, it is potentially dangerous, and moving to a tiller to change direction or adjust speeds disrupts the boat's balance and distracts from water control. remote-control This is one of the first steps of tuning for any owner of a small vessel.
The modernization process requires attention to detail, as the correct operation of the mechanisms. gas-gas and reverse In this article, we will discuss all the steps from the selection of components to the final adjustment, and if you make mistakes in installation, you can stick levers, neutrals malfunction or even cables break at full speed.
Modern systems allow you to control the engine, being at any point of the cockpit, which is especially important when fishing alone or when mooring in windy weather. It is critical to understand that the control cables should have the minimum possible path length to avoid loss of effort and delays in the transmission of commands. Let’s look at what exactly is required for a qualitatively complete task.
Selection of equipment and preparation of tools
Before starting work, you need to decide on the type of control system. For outboard motors up to 40-50 hp, the most common mechanical systems with cable drive are used. They are reliable, easy to maintain and do not require electric power. hydraulic control Fly-by-wire, but within the framework of this instruction, we will focus on classical mechanics, which is most popular among amateurs.
The standard set usually includes the control unit itself (machine), two cables (one for gas, one for reverse/shift), fasteners and instructions. Yamaha, Merkury The key parameter is length, and it has to be matched with a margin, but without frills, because too long a cable increases friction and reduces control accuracy.
As for the toolkit, you'll need a standard set of fittings to install. Don't forget to prepare a drill with a set of metal and wood drills if the rummel is attached to a fiberglass board or a wooden transom, and cutters, pliers and a set of keys to tighten the nuts of the mounting the rummel.
Special attention should be paid to the quality of the cables. Cheap analogues can have rough padding or a weak cable that will stretch quickly. Stainless steel - optimal material for the inner vein, providing durability in an aggressive aquatic environment.
Definition of installation site and markings
The choice of location for the remote control unit is a matter of ergonomics and safety. The handler should be positioned so that the operator's hand rests on the handle naturally, without the need to stretch or bend the wrist excessively, usually starboard, but on some boats with a center console, the control is brought to the center.
When marking holes under fasteners, you must take into account the course of the control lever. It should not rest on the side, seat or other elements of the boat structure when moving to the extreme positions (full gas or full reverse). Gap. It must be at least 5-7 cm on all sides.
⚠️ Before drilling holes in the boat hull (especially if it is PVC with a hard bottom or fiberglass), be sure to check the back side of the board for hidden structural elements, wiring or fuel hoses.
If you install a ramper on a transom (for motors where the tiller stays on the motor but uses an extension cord), make sure the mounting is rigid. The back of the base will cause rapid wear and inaccurate control. Aluminum boats often use prefabricated brackets that are fastened to existing transom holes.
It is also important to think about the trajectory of the cables from the tube to the motor, which should go as straight as possible, without sharp breaks. The minimum bend radius is usually specified by the cable manufacturer (often at least 15-20 cm), Violation of this parameter will lead to a rapid failure of the system.
Installation of the control unit (machine)
The installation process of the unit itself begins with fitting. Apply the rummel to the marked area and make sure that the holes match. If drilling is required, use a drill with a diameter corresponding to fasteners (usually 6-8 mm). For fiberglass boats, the edges of the holes are recommended to be treated with epoxy to prevent material from stratifying.
The mounting of the hummel should be performed on bolts with wide washers and grovers. The use of conventional nuts without fixing is unacceptable due to the constant vibration that occurs when the engine is running. Counter-nuts or a thread fixator (anaerobic sealant) will ensure the reliability of the connection for many years.
☑️ Checklist of the installation of the tiller
After the physical installation of the unit, check the smoothness of the lever. It should move with a certain force, but without jerking or jamming. If the stroke is too tight, you may need to lubricate the internal mechanisms or loosen the tightening of the fasteners (without loss of fixation).
Some models of romples have a function neutral-starterThis is a thruster that allows the engine to start only when the lever is in neutral, and make sure that this mechanism works correctly, as it is an important safety element that prevents a boat from jerking abruptly when the engine starts.
Laying and connecting cables
The most important step is to lay the cables. The gas control cable and the gearshift cable (reverse) must be laid parallel, but not twisted together. Use plastic clamps or special clips to fix the cables along the side. The distance between the attachment points should not exceed 50 cm to prevent sagging and beating of the cables on the wave.
When you connect to the motor, you need to remove the casing and access the levers on the dayweight, and the reverse cable connects to the gear lever, and the gas cable connects to the carburetor throttle or throttle assembly, and it's important to follow the sequence: first, the outer lining of the cable is fixed, then the inner vein.
td> ~30-40 mm
| Parameter | Gas cable | Reverse cable |
|---|---|---|
| Type of connection | A hinge/fork | Fork/Prince |
| Lever stroke | ~60-80 mm | |
| Breaking-up effort | High. | Average |
| Frequency of use | Constantly. | Periodically |
When tightening the nuts of the cable shells, don't overdo it. Excessive force can warp the seats on the carburetor or gearshift mechanism. It's enough tighten to the end with your hand and squeeze a little with the key.
Nuances of gasket in PVC boats
In inflatable boats, cables are often laid inside inflatable tubes through special channels or on the outside under stringers. It is important to avoid places where the cable can be clamped with a saddle or cans when moving. Use a corrugated tube to protect yourself in areas of contact with fabric.
Adjustment of stroke and adjustment of neutral
After the connection, you have to make a careful adjustment, and the main task is to make sure that when the handle is neutral, the motor is also neutral, and the transmission does not turn on spontaneously, using adjustment nuts at the ends of the cables.
First, set the reverse cable. Move the rummel lever to the neutral position. Relax the locks and move the cable tip until the click of the motor gear on occurs exactly in that position. Then lock the nuts.
Then the gas cable is adjusted. When the throttle on the carburetor is fully opened (the gas handle on the motor is twisted to a maximum if there is a separate one, or it is fixed), the handler should reach the full gas stop. If the stroke does not match, change the position of the cable tip.
⚠️ Attention! After adjusting, make sure that when the gas is fully opened, the handler does not rest on the body before the throttle fully opens, which may result in the inability to develop full engine power.
Checking the system should be done on land, with care, make sure that the lever is clearly fixed in the forward, neutral and back positions. The lever in the neutral should be minimal, but sufficient for the free rotation of the screw at start.
Service and typical errors
A properly installed remote control system requires minimal maintenance, but regular inspection is mandatory. Periodically lubricate the movable connections of the cables and levers with special water-resistant lubrication, this will prevent corrosion and jamming.
One of the typical mistakes is to ignore the tension of the cables over time. The cables can stretch.If you notice that the motor is holding the neutral poorly or stalls when it is turned on, check the adjustment first.
Lubricate the control cables through special oils at the ends of the shells (if any) or removing the tips once a season. Use only rubber and plastic compatible lubricants to avoid destroying the seals.
It's also common to have a mislaying error where the cable rubs around Sharp edges sharp edges of metal or fiberglass, and over time, it will rub the outer shell, water and dirt will get inside, leading to corrosion of the inner core and jamming of the system.
And in conclusion, a good DI setup makes it fun to drive a boat, you get full control of the boat, you get one hand to steer the engine, and you get the other hand to spin or push back from the shore, and you get the comfort and safety of the water to pay off.
The quality of the installation of the control unit is determined not only by the reliability of the fastener, but also by the accuracy of the neutral adjustment and the smoothness of the cables.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can you install remote control on any outboard motor?
Virtually any two-stroke or four-stroke tiller-controlled motor can be fitted with a DR system if it has brackets and cables, but for the lowest-power models (up to 2-3 hp), this may not be economically feasible.
How often do I need to change the remote control cables?
The life of the cables depends on the intensity of operation and storage conditions. On average, with regular lubrication and use in fresh water, they last 5-7 years. In salt water, the resource is reduced to 3-4 years. Change the cables when there are signs of corrosion, jamming or if the shell is damaged.
What to do if the gas cable is caught at full speed?
Discharge the gas immediately and shut the engine (using an emergency stop cord) snatching can be caused by dirt, lack of lubrication or damage to the inner vein.
Do I need to remove the romple from the engine when installing the DR?
In most cases, the engine's humming wheel remains, but its functionality is locked or used as a backup. Some owners dismantle the native humming wheel so that it does not interfere, leaving only the switching mechanisms and gas to which the cables are connected.