Transition to hydraulic steering It's not just an upgrade, it's a fundamental change in the ergonomics of the boat. Owners of powerful motor boats know that when you're in high speed and excitement, the mechanical cable becomes heavy, wobbly, and requires a lot of physical effort to maneuver. Hydraulics completely eliminates these disadvantages, ensuring that the humming wheel runs smoothly, easily and holds its course accurately without jerks.
The installation process requires careful preparation, cleanliness and an understanding of the principles of work. hydraulic cylinderInstallation errors can cause suffocation, leaks or even a steering failure at a critical moment. In this article, we will discuss in detail the steps of selection of components, the specifics of installing the pump and steering machine, and the correct pumping technology of the system.
Before you start physical work, you need to make sure that the selected kit corresponds to the power of your engine and the type of body. Hydraulic pump It must create sufficient pressure to operate the piston at maximum loads, occurring on planing or in a storm. Ignoring the technical specifications can lead to rapid wear of seals and failure of expensive equipment.
The key point is the choice of a place to place the units. It is critical to ensure a minimum length of high pressure hoses without tension and sharp bends, as this directly affects the responsiveness of the steering wheel and the durability of the system. Incorrect tracing of highways often causes vibration of the steering wheel or the appearance of air traffic jams, which are difficult to remove later.
Selection of components and preparation for installation
The first step is to determine the type of kit required. For outboard motors up to 150 hp, a single-cylinder system is often sufficient, whereas for engines over 200 hp or catamaran installations, a two-cylinder circuit is required. cylinder-capacityThis directly affects the number of rudder turns from side to side.
When choosing hoses, pay attention to their marking and permissible working pressure. The use of car hoses or low pressure tubes is strictly prohibited, since the use of car hoses or low pressure tubes is strictly prohibited. hydraulic fluid It will also require a special liquid that is compatible with the seals of your system (usually ATF or special oils on a synthetic basis).
- 🛠️ Steering cylinder (machine): is selected by the thrust and type of attachment to the transom or frame of the motor.
- 🛠️ The pump (helm pump): is selected taking into account the desired gear ratio and the number of rpms of the steering wheel.
- 🛠️ High-pressure hose: fittings and length, excluding tension during the shifting of the steering wheel are required.
- 🛠️ Liquid and consumables: spare hydraulic fluid, rags, clamps and sealant for threaded joints.
⚠️ Attention: Never use glycol-based DOT brake fluid in mineral oil or ATF systems. This will cause rubber seals to swell and the control system to fail completely.
Workplace preparation is also important: You'll need access to the transom, the insides of the rundooks and the space under the deck to lay the track, make sure you have a set of keys, including the dynamometer, and tools to cut and press the hoses, if they don't come in the kit assembled.
Installation of the steering cylinder on the transom
Installation hydraulic cylinder It starts with the mounting of the transom or the rotary bracket of the motor. The cylinder should be placed strictly horizontally to avoid uneven wear of the cuffs and rod. When mounting on the transom, an additional stainless steel or aluminum reinforcing plate is often required if the normal holes do not match.
It is important to ensure the free flow of the rod throughout the entire range of the steering wheel. The rod should not rest on the elements of the structure of the boat or the engine itself in extreme positions. steering-rod.
When mounting the cylinder, use high-strength bolts (Class 8.8 and above) with mandatory thread fixation. Vibration, which occurs when the engine is running, can quickly unwind the usual connections. After installation, check the alignment: the traction should move easily, without snacking and distortion.
Lubricate the steering cylinder rod with a thin layer of lithium lubricant before installing the anthers - this will prolong the life of the omentums and protect against corrosion in salt water.
Pay special attention to protecting the rod from the outside. Make sure the rubber anthers (corrugated) are worn correctly and are not damaged. Getting abrasive (sand, silt) on the rod mirror will instantly disable the seals and cause leakage.
Installation of a hydraulic pump and steering wheel
The pump is usually mounted in a cockpit or dashboard, and the main requirement is access to the service and ease of rotation of the steering wheel, and the pump must be fixed rigidly, without backlashes, as any vibration will be transmitted to the steering wheel.
When installing a pump in a runduk (under deck), you need to provide a system for draining possible leakage. Although modern systems are sealed, there is always a risk of mechanical damage to the hose or failure of the osteoil. Hydraulic fluid It should not be taken to the electrician or to bilge water without control.
Connecting the pump shaft to the steering wheel requires precise alignment. Use cone junctions or sling shafts with locking nuts. The luft in the steering wheel-pump connection will create an unpleasant feeling of "dead stroke" of the steering wheel, which is especially noticeable when mooring.
☑️ Installation of the pump
If you are installing a system with autopilot connectivity, make sure that the pump has the appropriate port or location for the solenoid installation, which will allow you to automate control in the future without replacing the entire node.
Laying and connection of hydraulic hoses
The most time-consuming step is to lay the highways, and the hose must travel from the pump to the cylinder in the shortest possible way, but with the bend radii in mind, and the sharp cracks in the hose will block the flow of fluid and can cause the highway to rupture under pressure.
When passing through bulkheads or decks, be sure to use pass sleeves and sealants. Sharp edges of metal can wipe the braid of the hose in one season. Use spiral or corrugated protection to protect hoses in areas of friction on the structure.
| Type of connection | Features of installation | Risk of error |
|---|---|---|
| Thread fittings | Require the use of a sealant (Teflon, anaerobe) | A swelling (crack) or a swelling (leak) |
| Quick pickups | Convenient for removal, require cleanliness | Getting dirt on docking |
| Pressure | Most reliably, requires a special tool. | Impossibility of repair in the field |
The hose length is calculated with a margin for the steering wheel and possible vibration of the engine on the suspensions. The hose should not be pulled like a string, but should not be hung with loops that can catch on to something. Optimally, smooth arcs with clips fixed to the body.
Do I need to wash the hoses before installation?
Yes, the inner cavity of new hoses may contain process dust or conservation lubricant, blow them with compressed air or spill a small amount of working fluid before final assembly.
Refueling and air removal
The pumping of the system is a critical step in whether the steering wheel will work softly or twitch. The air in the system is compressed, unlike the liquid, so the presence of bubbles makes the control unstable. Fill the expansion tank of the pump (or the pump itself) to the maximum level.
The process of removing air begins with opening the bypass valves (if there are any on the cylinder) or by slowly rotating the steering wheel from side to side. Move the steering wheel smoothly, allowing the bubbles to rise into the expansion tank. Sharp movements drive air back into the system.
Some systems require sequential unwinding of the screws on the cylinder to release the liquid under pressure. hydraulic oilRepeat the procedure until the fitting is clean liquid without bubbles.
⚠️ Attention: When pumping, keep an eye on the tank's fluid level, and if the level drops below the minimum, you'll pump a new amount of air, and you'll have to start the procedure again.
After the initial pumping, leave the system alone for a few hours to release microbubbles dissolved in the liquid. Then check the level again and add if necessary. The full break-in cycle can take several outlets to the water.
Testing and setting up the system
The first water launch should be done safely away from shore and other vessels, check the steering wheel at low speeds, then gradually increase the speed, note the absence of jerks, pump hums and extraneous sounds.
Check the system for tightness under load. Check all connections, connections and the cylinder itself for droplets of liquid. Even the minimum sweating of the connection will eventually grow into a leak, so it is better to eliminate the defect immediately.
Perfectly working hydraulics do not require effort to rotate the steering wheel and returns the steering wheel to a neutral position smoothly, without jerks and delays.
Adjust the tension of the steering wheel (if the pump has a friction regulator). It should hold in the preset position when releasing the hand, but allow you to make sharp turns when necessary. Too tight regulator tires hands, too weak – will not hold the course on the wave.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How often should the hydraulic fluid in the system be changed?
Manufacturers recommend changing the liquid every 3-5 years or when there are signs of contamination (occurrence, presence of water), however, regular visual monitoring of the level and condition of the liquid is mandatory before each season.
Can I use the hoses from the car GUR?
Theoretically, you can do it if the pressure and the diameter are the same, but it's risky. Sea hoses have UV and salt water protection, which is not available in automobiles. It's better to use specialized marine components.
Why did the wheel become stiff after winter storage?
It's likely that the system has become jam-dried or thickened in the cold, and it's also possible that the internals of the cylinder will oxidize, and you need to pump the system completely and check the fluid.
Do I need to disassemble the cylinder for lubrication?
No, modern hydraulic cylinders are not serviceable for internal lubrication, only the external moving parts (thrust joints) and the rod (to protect against corrosion) are required to lubricate, opening the cylinder will break the leakage.