Upgrade of the outboard motor Yamaha 40 This is often a key step for small boat owners looking to improve their boat’s performance, and the standard lift/lower system on these models often limits the ability to maneuver in shallow water or tow, which is why hydraulic lifting is one of the most popular types of tuning, allowing them to control the lower unit angle directly from the remote control.
The process of implementing hydraulics requires not only accuracy, but also a deep understanding of the design of the power unit. Incorrect installation can lead to deformation of the mounts or disruption of the cooling system. In this article, we will discuss in detail all the stages of work, from the selection of equipment to the final adjustment of the angle of the trim, so that your car is not able to use the hydraulics. outboard served long and securely.
Before you start mechanical work, you need to make sure that the chosen set is compatible with a specific modification of the engine. There are many solutions on the market, but not all of them fit perfectly on the seats. Yamaha 40 The proper training and availability of a special tool will be the key to a successful installation.
Choosing a hydraulic lift kit for Yamaha 40
The first and most important step is the selection of equipment. 40 hp motors are most often used universal kits that adapt to different landing dimensions. hydraulic You have to handle the weight of lower unit without jerking.
Most quality kits include the cylinder itself, the pump unit (pump), electrical wiring and mounting brackets. It is important to pay attention to the material of manufacture: silumine pump housings are cheaper but less durable in salt water than brass or bronze counterparts. Yamaha 40 The best choice is systems with an external pump, which are easier to maintain.
You also have to consider the type of control you want to use, and there are systems with a simple up-down switch, and there are more complex options with different angle adjustments on the go. If you plan on glittering and working at high speeds, the trimmer will be the first to have a trimmer. critical to save fuel and improve access to the mode.
- ⚓ Hydrocylinder: It must have a sufficient margin of safety and sealed glands.
- ⚓ Pumping unit: It is preferable to a model with a reverse electric motor.
- ⚓ Set of anchorages: The bolts must be made of stainless steel of the AISI 316 brand.
- ⚓ Electrical wiring: availability of high-quality insulation and moisture-protected connectors.
Tools and preparation of the site
You can't have a high-quality installation without proper workspace and tools training. You'll need not only a standard set of wrenches, but also specific hydraulics gears. Before you start, you'll need to securely lock the engine on the boat's stand or transom, allowing you to have free access to the back of the lower unit and the screw hub.
Pay special attention to cleanliness. Even microscopic dust entering the hydraulic system can cause the pump to fail in a few hours of operation. All threaded connections before assembly are recommended to be treated with a fixing sealant so that vibration during operation boat-engine It didn't loosen the mounts.
You'll need a dynamometer key, a drill with a set of drills (including metal drills and possibly ceramics if you have to drill lower unit), and a multimeter to check electrical circuits. Don't forget the drain tank for old hydraulic fluid, if it's present in the dismantled nodes.
☑️ Installation tools
Dismantling of the standard system and preparation of anchorages
The process begins with dismantling the normal elements of the lifting system, if any, or vacating the seats. Yamaha 40 Often, the protective casings must be removed and the power-driven traction disconnected, and care must be taken not to damage the plastic locks and electrical position sensor connectors.
The next step is to fit the brackets of the new hydraulic lift, and in most cases, the regular holes in the lower unit. Yamaha They are the same as the holes in the general-purpose kits, but sometimes drilling or using transition bushings is required. It is strictly forbidden to drill holes at random: any error can lead to a rod skewing and jamming of the system.
⚠️ Warning: Before drilling any holes in the metal body of the lower unit, make sure that there are no internal cooling system channels or gearbox cavities in the drilling area. Use a thin test drill and flashlight for control.
When installing fasteners, be sure to use spring washers and a fixing compound for threads. The moment of tightening should meet the specifications of the hydraulic lift manufacturer, but not exceed the permissible values for aluminum alloy of the motor body. Excessive force can lead to a failure of the thread, the restoration of which will require serious repair.
Installation of the hydraulic cylinder and pump unit
The cylinder itself is mounted on the brackets that are prepared, the cylinder stem must move parallel to the diewood axis of rotation, and distortions are not allowed, because they will create a lateral load on the glands, which is guaranteed to lead to leakage of fluid. Once the cylinder body is fixed, check the freedom of the rod along the entire length.
The pump unit is usually mounted on the transom of the boat or on a special bracket on the side of the motor, and it is important to place it so that it is protected from direct splashes and impacts, but still remains available for maintenance. The pump terminals should be directed down or sideways to prevent water from leaking in.
The cylinder and pump are connected by high-pressure hydraulic hoses. When laying hoses, avoid sharp bending and contact with moving or heating parts of the engine. The hoses must have a margin of length necessary to fully rotate the motor both ways without tension.
Nuances of hydraulics gasket
When laying hoses, use plastic clamps with rubber lining so that the vibration does not rub the rubber shell. Do not allow the hoses to touch the exhaust system or hot parts of the engine, as high temperatures destroy hydraulic rubber.
Electrical circuit and power connection
The electrical part of the installation requires maximum care. Power to the pump unit is supplied directly from the battery through a fuse of the corresponding nominal value (usually 20-30 Amps). Using the regular motor wiring to power the pump is not recommended due to the high initiation currents that can melt the contacts.
The system uses a remote control or a separate switch mounted on the dashboard, and the circuitry is usually standard: a thick + wire per battery, a - wire per mass, and two control wires from the remote to the pump solenoids, all of which must be soldered and carefully insulated by shrinkage.
Make sure to install the fuse as close as possible to the battery's plus terminal, which will protect the wiring from fire in the event of a short circuit. circuitry Use copper wires with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm2, preferably 4 mm2, to minimize the voltage drop.
| Component | Color of wire (standard) | Section, mm2 | Protection |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pump power (+) | Red. | 4.0 | Safety lock 30A |
| Pump mass (-) | Black. | 4.0 | Grounding on ABC |
| Control (Up) | Blue | 1.5 | Through the remote. |
| Management (Down) | Green. | 1.5 | Through the remote. |
Use copper lubricant for battery terminals and solenoid contacts, which will prevent contact oxidation in high humidity and salty environments.
Refueling and air removal
After mechanical installation and electrical connection, you need to fill the system with hydraulic fluid. Most kits are suitable for special ATF oil (Automatic Transmission Fluid) or power steering fluid. Do not mix liquids of different types and manufacturers to avoid chemical reaction and precipitation.
The process of removing air (pumping) consists of repeatedly cycling up and down the lower unit. At the beginning of the process, the rod can move in jerks, and the characteristic hissing sound will be heard from the system. You need to continue the cycles until the movement is smooth and the level of fluid in the pump tank ceases to decrease.
It is important to monitor the level of fluid during the pumping process and constantly add it to the pump so that the pump does not recapture the air. Once the procedure is complete, check all connections for leaks. If there are leaks, tighten the fittings or replace the sealing rings.
The quality of the pumping system is the key to the longevity of the hydraulic lift, and the remaining air in the system causes cavitation, which destroys the working surfaces of the pump and makes the control of the engine unstable.
Adjustment of the angle of the different (Trimming)
The final step is to adjust the tilt angle of the lower unit, and the trimmer that's set right allows you to optimize the position of the boat relative to the water, which has a direct impact on speed, fuel consumption and handling. Yamaha 40 The angle of the differential is usually regulated by the limiters on the rod of the hydraulic cylinder or by the adjustment of the ends in the electrical circuit.
When you move against the wave, the boat's nose can squeez upwards, requiring the lowering of the lower unit. On the contrary, when you are fully loaded and calm water, you can raise the engine to reduce the resistance of the water. Experimentally find the position at which the boat is fastest glides and keeps a steady course.
⚠️ Warning: Do not allow the engine to operate when the cooling system intake hole is above water level, which will cause the engine to overheat and cause serious damage in minutes.
Adjustment also involves checking the up and down ends, the motor must automatically stop at the extreme positions so as not to damage the mechanism, and if the automation does not work, you need to adjust the position of the sensors or mechanical stops.
Frequent Questions (FAQ)
What is the best oil to use into the Yamaha 40 hydraulic lift?
It is best to use specialized hydraulic oils for outboard motors, such as Yamaha Power Trim & Steering Fluid or their quality analogues (ATF Dexron III).
Can the engine be left in a raised state for the winter?
Yes, the hydraulic lift allows you to keep the engine in an elevated state, which protects lower unit from fouling and corrosion, but it is recommended to periodically (once a month) lower and lift the engine to lubricate the oil oils and stretch the rod.
Why does the hydraulic lift not keep the engine in the upper position?
Most often, the cause is the wear and tear of the internal valves of the pump or damage to the hydraulic cylinder coils, and there may be air entering the system or insufficient fluid levels, and diagnostics and repair of the hydraulic assembly is required.
Is the universal hydraulic lift compatible with the Yamaha 40 X engine?
Modifications with the index "X" (long lower unit) may have differences in the geometry of the mount. Before buying, be sure to compare the photo of your engine with the photo of the kit or consult with the seller regarding compatibility with the long leg.
Do I need to change the safety lock after installing the hydraulic lift?
Yes, if you connect the system to an existing wiring, make sure that the standard fuse can withstand the current of the pump. It is best to lay a separate battery power line with its own fuse, calculated according to the instructions for the hydraulic lift.