Inflatable element damage of the swimming aid - a situation faced by almost every owner PVC After several seasons of active use, the problem is often not in the cylinder itself, but in the connection with the air valve, which takes the main load during pumping and descent. valve-setting This is a critical step in restoring tightness, since it is here that microcracks or tissue stratifications most often occur.
Poor installation can cause the boat to poison the air at the most inopportune moment, which on the water poses a real danger to the crew. The process of replacement requires not only accuracy, but also strict adherence to the gluing technology, choosing the right one. two-component In this article, we will discuss all the nuances of the work, so that your boat will again become reliable and safe.
Before taking action, you need to assess the extent of the damage and understand whether a complete repainting or local repair is necessary. In 80% of cases, the valve is removed due to the use of improper glue or temperature disturbance during previous repairs. The right approach to the choice of materials and tools ensures that the repaired unit will last no less than the factory product.
Diagnosis of damage and choice of valve type
The first step in the recovery process is to carefully examine the site of the injury, and it often appears visually that the valve itself has moved away, but when you look at it in detail, you find that the tissue around it has been dissected or the inner lobe has been damaged. pasted and inflatable Understanding the design is essential to purchasing the right consumables.
If you are faced with a situation where the valve dangles or passes air around the perimeter of the base, most likely, the tightness of the adhesive seam is violated. In the case of mechanical damage to the valve body itself (plastic cracks, broken threads), a complete replacement of the element will be required. It is important to determine the diameter of the landing hole, since the standards may differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. frigate, hunter or riviera.
Diagnosis also involves checking the condition of the cylinder tissue at the place of gluing. If the polyvinyl chloride has become loose, has lost elasticity or has deep scuffs, simple gluing of the valve may not give a long-term effect. patch-up larger diameter for the valve or even replacing a part of the balloon.
Required tools and materials for the job
The quality of the work performed depends on the materials used. You can not use ordinary household glue or universal adhesives, as they will not withstand the pressure and elasticity of PVC. polyurethaneIt's designed specifically for boat fabrics, and it provides a high strength seam and retains elasticity after polymerization.
In addition to the glue, you'll need a set of tools to prepare the surface and fix the elements. A degreasing agent, such as acetone or a special solvent, is needed to remove factory lubrication and dirt. P120-P180 or a special nozzle on the drill, but you need to act carefully so as not to damage the cords of the fabric.
- 🛠️ Special two-component glue for PVC and hardener.
- 🧪 Solvent for degreasing (acetone, ethyl acetate).
- 📏 Spathers, brushes and rollers for applying glue.
- 🌡️ A dryer for heating the glued surfaces.
- 🏋️ Cargo or vacuum press bags.
Special attention should be paid to the temperature of the work. The optimal range is from +15 to +25 degrees Celsius. At lower temperatures, the adhesive may not polymerize properly, and at high temperatures it may grab too quickly before it has time to penetrate the structure of the material. If you work in a garage in winter, be sure to arrange local heating of the work area.
If the jar of glue is stored for longer than 6 months or has signs of thickening, the strength of the connection will be critically low.
Surface Preparation: A Key Stage of Success
Surface preparation is the stage where the most errors are made, leading to re-removal. Just smearing glue on PVC is not enough; you need to create a roughness that will provide mechanical adhesion. Carefully clear the valve installation site on the cylinder and the inside of the valve itself (if it is pasted) with sandpaper. The movements should be circular, covering an area slightly larger than the diameter of the valve.
After mechanical cleaning, you need to carefully degrease the surfaces. Use a lilac-free fabric soaked in the solvent and wipe the gluing places. Important: Don't rub too hard so that the solvent doesn't start to erode the plastic, just remove the dust and the fat film, let the surface dry completely for 5-10 minutes.
⚠️ Warning: Never skip the degreasing phase, even microscopic traces of fat or silicone that are invisible to the eye will create a barrier between the glue and the fabric, leading to depressurization under load.
If you have left a piece of glue or tissue in the old valve, you have to remove it completely, and you can carefully heat the old seam with a hair dryer and scrape it off with a blunt knife or spatula, and the surface should be perfectly clean, matte and dry before applying a new adhesive.
☑️ Preparation for gluing
Technology of applying glue and gluing
The gluing process requires precise adherence to the time intervals specified by the glue manufacturer. Usually the glue is applied in two layers. The first layer is applied in a thin layer on both glued surfaces (the cylinder tissue and the valve pen) and left to dry for 15-20 minutes until the "stick" state (when the finger does not stick, but the trace remains).
The second layer is applied after the first one has been dryed, and it's after the second layer has been applied that the building hair dryer is heated to a temperature of about 60 to 70 degrees. Thermoactivation It allows the glue to become more fluid and penetrate deeply into the pores of PVC, creating a monolithic compound, and you need to heat both surfaces evenly, avoiding overheating, which can deform the tissue.
The way you do this is you combine the surfaces after heating and you press them very tightly, you start pressing them from the center to the edges to drive out the air bubbles, you use a heavy load or a special downcast roller to create a uniform pressure, and you have a primary polymerization time of about 24 hours, and then you can do the tests.
Sequence of action:1. Apply the 1st layer of glue -> Dry 20 minutes.
2. Apply the 2nd layer of glue -> Dry 10 minutes.
Heat the hair dryer to 60-70°C.
4. Connect and press hard.
5. Hold under load for 24 hours.
The main secret of a strong connection is the double application of glue with mandatory thermoactivation by a hairdryer before the final connection of the surfaces.
Table of compatibility of materials and drying time
Other types of adhesives and materials may require a personalized approach. Below is a help table to help you navigate the drying time and how you work with popular formulations. Remember, the data may vary slightly depending on the manufacturer's brand.
| Type of glue | Time to dry 1 layer | Sticking temperature | Complete polymerization |
|---|---|---|---|
| Polyurethane (2 comp.) | 20-30 minutes | +15...+25°C | 24-48 hours |
| Polychloroprene | 15-20 minutes | +18...+25°C | 24 hours. |
| Specialized for PVC | 10-15 minutes | +20...+30°C | 12:24 hours. |
| Fast-drying (express) | 5-10 minutes | +20...+25°C | 6-12 hours |
When working with double-component It is important to keep the ratios of the base and hardener blending precisely: Excess hardener can make the seam brittle, and lack of it will keep the glue from gaining full strength. Mix the components immediately before application, as the viability of the finished mixture is limited.
If you work in high humidity, drying time can increase, and in such cases it is recommended to use additional heat sources (heat guns) to create an optimal microclimate in the work area, but you can not direct the flow of hot air directly to fresh glue.
Final leakproofness test and test
After the full polymerization time specified by the adhesive manufacturer has passed, you can start testing, you don't want to put the boat on the water right away, the initial check is by pumping the balloon to the working pressure and aging in a warm room for several hours, and if the pressure doesn't drop, you can go to the soap solution test.
Apply a thick soap foam to the valve gluing site and watch closely, and even small bubbles indicate the presence of micropores or unpatched areas. Important: If the bubbles started immediately after application, there may be air in the glue seam, and if the bubbles are slow, it's a sign of insufficient adhesion.
- 🔍 Visual examination for the presence of bloating or detachment.
- 💨 Checking pressure with a pressure gauge in dynamics.
- 🧼 Test with soap solution around the valve perimeter.
- 🌊 Control navigation in the safe zone near the shore.
⚠️ Warning: If you detect air etching, don't just try to grease the glue on top. You need to completely cut the valve, clean the surface again and repeat the whole gluing process from scratch.
What to do if the valve is poisoning after repair?
If after all the procedures the valve continues to poison, perhaps the reason is not in the glue, but in the valve itself (microcrack in the plastic) or in the fabric of the balloon below, in which case you need to replace the valve with a new one and possibly install a repair patch (five) of larger diameter for the installation site.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can the valve be glued with a normal superglue or moment?
No, absolutely not. Conventional cyanocrylate adhesives ("superglue") make PVC tough and brittle, they can't withstand the deformities of the inflated balloon and they crack quickly, and you need a specialized polyurethane or polychloroprene adhesive that retains elasticity.
How long should I keep the boat after the sleeve?
The minimum time for primary strength is 24 hours at room temperature, but to achieve maximum strength and resistance to water stress, it is recommended to wait 48-72 hours before the first pumping and use.
Do I need to clean the surface of the valve if it is new?
Factory valves often have a smooth surface or protective lubrication, and light skinning (creating risks) greatly improves adhesion of the adhesive and the reliability of the connection to the cylinder fabric.
What to do if the valve is removed along with a piece of tissue?
In this case, simple gluing is impossible. You need to cut out a repair patch (a patch) 5-7 cm larger in diameter from a dense PVC fabric than the valve, glue it onto the cylinder, and then paste the valve into the center of this patch.