Inflatable vessel upgrades often begin with a desire to improve comfort and handling. Installation of the console on the PVC boat It's a logical step for those who plan long walks or active fishing, and having a rigid platform allows not only to conveniently place navigation devices and sonar, but also to organize ergonomic control of the engine.
Unlike metal, polyvinyl chloride requires a special approach to the weight of the structure and the type of attachments. Incorrectly calculated load can shift the center of gravity, which will adversely affect the performance of the craft. fiberglass Or an aluminum console will change the differentiation of the boat.
In this article, we will discuss in detail the process of selecting, preparing and installing the steering rack. Transom SaverThe project will be designed to make a conventional inflator into a full-fledged small boat.
Selection of suitable construction and materials
The first step is always to pick the rack itself. The market offers ready-made solutions from aluminum profiles, stainless steel or composite materials. For PVC boats, weight is critical: excess mass in the bow will lead to the nose burrowing in a wave on the go. The optimal choice is often the design of profiled pipe. duraluminThey combine strength with minimal weight.
When choosing, consider the configuration of the instrumentation platform. It should be wide enough to accommodate sounderThe slimming, navigator and possibly spinning holders, but don't block the driver's view. Narrow models can be uncomfortable to operate, especially if you plan to use a tablet or a large cartplotter.
It's also worth checking compatibility with your type of transo. pendantThe installation of a heavy console may require additional reinforcements or shifting the mounting point closer to the cylinder. pasted have more freedom in the choice of massive structures, since the rigidity of the connection is higher.
Preparation for installation and necessary tools
Before you start drilling or assembling, you have to prepare the workspace, and you're best off working on a solid, flat surface, straightening the boat completely, and you're going to need a toolkit that allows you to do the work neatly without damaging the delicate PVC fabric.
For high-quality installation you will need:
- 🔧 A drill or screwdriver with a set of drills for metal and wood (for a transom).
- 📏 Roulette, coal mine and marker for accurate marking of fastening points.
- 🔩 A set of wrenches and screwdrivers for assembling a profile.
- 🛡️ Protective gaskets made of rubber or plastic for contact with cylinders.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to use sharp tools in the immediate vicinity of pumped cylinders. Any careless movement can lead to a cut of tissue, which will require expensive repairs.
Pay special attention to fasteners. Since the console will be subjected to vibration and moisture, all bolts and nuts must be from the inside. stainless steelThe normal ferrous metal will rust after the first season, spoiling the appearance and weakening the structure. Loctite medium fixation so that the vibration of the motor does not unwind the connections.
☑️ Preparation for installation
Technology of attachment to transmolants and cylinders
There are two main ways to fix the console on an inflatable boat: attaching directly to the transom and using remote brackets covering the cylinders. The first option is suitable for light models and boats with a rigid glued transom. The second option is more versatile and allows you to distribute the load, avoiding pressure on the bottom of the transom.
When you attach to the transom, it is important to observe symmetry. The skewed console will lead to uneven distribution of weight, which is especially noticeable at low speeds and when parking. If you use brackets that cover cylinders, be sure to use wide soft linings. Point pressure of metal or hard plastic on PVC is unacceptable.
For reliable fixation, fastex or fastex belts are often used that run under the bottom of the boat or around the cylinders, which creates an additional point of support and prevents the console from moving forward under the action of inertia during sharp braking.
Below is a comparative table of fastening methods:
| Mounting method | Pluses | Cons | Recommended load |
|---|---|---|---|
| To the transom (bolts) | Toughness, simplicity. | Risk of transmunal damage, need a glued transmun | Up to 10kg |
| On cylinders (belts) | Universality, no drilling | Less stiffness, risk of rubbing | Up to 7 kg |
| Combined | Maximum reliability | Difficulty installation, more elements | More than 10 kg |
Nuances of work with the hinged transcension
If your boat has a hinged transom, installing a heavy console may require the installation of additional inflatable elements (stringers) or the use of special transom amplifiers to avoid deflection and loss of tightness of the connection.
Installation of steering and cables
Installing the console itself is only half the battle, and the key is steering. PVC boats are most often powered by a cable steering system (e.g., a cable steering system). T-81 The mechanism is attached to the rear of the console, and the cables are laid along the side to the caldor on the motor.
The cables must be laid so that they don't rub against the sharp corners of an aluminum profile or a transom. Use plastic clamps and corrugated tubes for protection. It's important to make sure that the cable is free to run: it should not be pulled like a string, but it should not sag.
When mounting the steering wheel, make sure that it does not interfere with the view and access to other controls. The height of the installation is determined individually, but the standard position is when the driver's hand lies on the "drum" freely, without lifting the shoulder.
⚠️ Attention: Before the first outing, be sure to check the steering wheel at full amplitude. Make sure that when turning the engine, the cables do not clamp or cling to the elements of the boat or transom.
If you are installing a console with gas-handleIf you're in a box or console, you're going to need to extend the cable of gas, which is a more complex operation, and you need to fine-tune the timing. For beginner tuners, it's recommended to leave the gas handle on the tiller or use a remote handle that attaches directly to the transom, bypassing the complex mechanisms inside the console.
Electrical wiring and instrumentation
Modern fishing or cruising is unthinkable without electronics, the console allows you to aesthetically accommodate the appliances, but requires a competent approach to electrical wiring, all cables must be protected from moisture, ultraviolet light and mechanical damage.
Use sea outlets or special waterproof connectors to power the system, and wiring is best done inside an aluminum profile if it's designed to, or along the bottom edge of the console, with cables fixed, and don't leave the wires hanging around, they can screw or catch gear.
Use adhesive shrink tubes for all wire connections. Conventional insulation on water and the sun won't last long, and the glue inside the shrink ensures 100% tight contact.
It is important to provide space for the battery. ACB It's never just on the floor of a boat or on a console without a mount, and the ideal place is a special knob in the nose or under the seat, with wires coming out to the console, which will ensure proper weighting and safety.
To protect the screens from glare and spray, you can make or purchase a transparent Plexiglas visor, which will improve the readability of maps and sonar data in sunny weather.
Security and final inspection
After the installation work is completed, a thorough check of all components is required. The console should not have backlashes, creaks or sharp edges that can damage equipment or clothing. Pay special attention to the places where the metal comes into contact with PVC fabric.
Do a water test run in a safe place. Test the boat's behavior at different speeds. If the boat's nose is burrowing into a wave or the boat is getting worse at planing, maybe the console is too heavy for your model, and it's worth considering mounting. hydrofoil on the motor or the redistribution of cargo.
⚠️ Attention: The presence of a rigid design in the PVC boat increases the requirements for compliance with the rules of the GIMS. Make sure that the total weight of passengers, equipment and installed console does not exceed the maximum permissible load capacity specified in the boat data sheet.
Regularly, after each season, perform mounting audits. Vibration and temperature changes can weaken the nut tightening. Timely tightening of the connections will extend the life of both the console and your boat.
The main principle of installation is the minimum weight of the structure and maximum protection of PVC fabric from contact with rigid elements.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I install a console on a boat without a transom?
In theory, you could use inflatable seats with mounts or special platforms that only attach to cylinders and the bottom, but this is less reliable and stable. A classic console requires a support, which is a transom.
How to protect the cylinders from rubbing on the console?
Use special protective linings made of dense tissue (for example, oxford or tarpaulin) or self-adhesive PVC tape at contact points, and soft rubber breakers glued to the inside of the console struts are also effective.
Does the console affect the speed of the boat?
Yes, any additional design creates sailing and increases weight. At low speeds, this is almost imperceptible, but when planing and at high speeds, the loss can be anywhere from 2 to 5 km / h depending on the aerodynamics of the shape of the console.
Do I need to remove the console when transporting a boat in assembled form?
Most of the time, yes. The console takes up a lot of space and can damage the fabric when folded, and there are foldable models, but even they are recommended to be removed for compact packaging in a transport bag.