Inflatable boats with hinged transverses have long ceased to be just a means for quiet fishing in quiet weather. With the increase in power outboard motors and increasing speed specifications of boats, controlling with a rummel becomes physically difficult and unsafe. Which is why installing a rudder on a PVC boat has become a luxury option for many owners. It is not just a matter of comfort, but an important component of safety on the water, allowing you to feel the boat more confident in lateral wind or strong wave.
The modernization process requires careful preparation, the right choice of components and the exact following of the installation technology. Mistakes in the design or assembly stage can lead to backlashes, jamming of the mechanism or even loss of control at a critical moment. In this article, we will discuss all the steps from choosing the type of system to the final adjustment of the cable wiring so that you can get the job done efficiently and the first time.
Selection of type of steering for inflatable vessel
Before you start installation work, you need to decide on the type of system that will be installed on your boat. The market offers two main options: mechanical rack control and hydraulic. For PVC boats with engines up to 50-60 hp, the most rational and common solution is to use the system in the future. mechanicalIt's easier to install, cheaper and easier to maintain in the field, and hydraulics are relevant for heavy sliding complexes, where the tiller force is high, but for a classic PVC boat, it's often redundant.
The key to choosing is the length of the cable. Standard kits are usually 3 meters (10 feet) long, but for boats with an elongated base or specific layout, an elongated version may be required. It is important to consider that the cable should have a margin of length for laying along the optimal route, avoiding sharp angles that can damage the inner shell. Also pay attention to the quality of the materials: stainless steel and brass are preferable over regular dyed metal, which will quickly corrosion in salt water.
- 🛡️ Materials: Preference should be given to components made of marine brass or stainless steel grade AISI 316.
- 📏 Length of cable: The standard length of 3 meters is suitable for most boats up to 4.5 meters long, for larger models you need a margin.
- 🔧 Compatibility: Make sure that the system you choose is suitable for your motor type (remote control or a rampel with an adapter).
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
You can't do a good job without the right tools, you'll need not only a standard set of wrenches, but you'll also need specialized tools for composites and metal, you'll need an electric drill with a set of drills in advance, including large-diameter first drills to go through the transom, you'll need a set of screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutters, and maybe a metal hacksaw to fit the brackets.
The workspace should be well lit and provided with a flat surface. The boat should be inflated to the working pressure to the transom to take its final position, but do not pump the cylinders to avoid deformation during drilling. All work is better done at air temperatures above +15 ° C, because at low temperatures the PVC material becomes rigid and can crack when mechanically exposed.
⚠️ Attention: When drilling holes in the transom, be sure to use a wooden lining on the inside of the boat, which will prevent damage to the opposite side or cylinder by the drill at the moment the tool is released through.
transom marking and drilling
The accuracy of the markings is 90 percent of the success of the whole operation. Before you pick up the drill, you need to try on all the components carefully, set the motor on the transom in the working position and determine the wholesale place for the steering machine to attach to the engine's device, the distance should be such that when you turn the engine to a full angle, the thrust does not rest on the brackets or elements of the boat, but also is not too stretched.
Use a marker to apply drilling points. The center of the steering machine is usually placed strictly in the middle of the transom or with a shift depending on the layout of the cockpit. To attach the machine itself, you will need to drill 4 holes under the bolts. The diameter of the drill must correspond exactly to the diameter of the fastening bolts to ensure a tight landing without backlashes. If the transom is made of multi-layer plywood with PVC coating, drill carefully so as not to split the inner layers.
☑️ Pre-drill check
After drilling holes, the edges must be treated, and for this, use a file or sandpaper to remove the burrs. The metal edges of the holes should be coated with a layer of sealant or paint to prevent moisture from entering the transom material and subsequent stratification, which is especially true for open-ended plywood trunks.
Installation of the steering machine and brackets
The main mechanism is installed from the outside of the transom. Between the body of the machine and the surface of the boat, it is recommended to lay a sealing washer or apply a layer of silicone sealant. This will create additional waterproofing and prevent the vibrational knock of metal against plastic or plywood while moving. Bolts of attachment extend from the inside out, which provides better aesthetics and protection of nuts from accidental unwinding when in contact with obstacles.
Nuances of soft transom fastening
If your trawler has a soft skin without a hard plastic coating, be sure to use increased washers under the nuts. This will distribute the load and prevent PVC material from pressing through when there is a strong vibration or wave shocks. Ideally, you can put pieces of rubber or dense plastic under the washers.
On the inside of the boat, you have a back end, a thrust bracket or a ramper, if you use a reverse thrust system, and you have to keep the alignment between the steering machine shaft and the thrust mounting point on the motor, and you have to have the thrust tilts that are going to cause the plastic bushings inside the gearbox to wear out unevenly and make a nasty creak.
- 🔩 Fixing: All threaded connections must be fixed with grover washers or threaded fixator.
- 💧 Sealing: Lubricate the entry points of bolts into the transom with silicone to create a waterproof barrier.
- 🔄 Check of progress: After installing the machine, check the smoothness of the rotation of the steering wheel without a connected cable.
Laying and connection of the cable system
The most time-consuming step is to lay the cable. The cable must go from machine to motor in the most direct way, without sharp breaks. The minimum bend radius for most cables is 20-25 cm. Violation of this rule will lead to rapid destruction of the internal structure of the cable and jamming of the steering. To attach the cable to the elements of the boat, use special plastic clamps or brackets without squeezing the shell.
The cable is connected to the steering machine and the motor according to the circuit attached to the kit. Usually the ends of the cable have threaded tips that are screwed into the corresponding sockets. The tension is adjusted by rotating these tips. The tension should be such that when the steering wheel is turned, there is no sagging of the cable (“dead stroke”), but there is no excessive tension that will create constant pressure on the gearbox.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to lubricate the cable inside the shirt with thick lubricants such as Litol or Solidol, at low temperatures, they will thicken and the steering wheel will jam, use only special aerosol greases for cables or graphite compounds.
To make it easier to pull the cable through difficult areas, use a temporary soft wire conductor, tie the end of the cable to the wire and gently push it through, avoiding sudden jerks.
Table of parameters and compatibility
To make it easier to select components and understand technical limitations, check out the parameter summary table to help determine if the system you choose is suitable for your boat and motor configuration.
| Parameter | Mechanical system | Hydraulic system | Requirements |
|---|---|---|---|
| Max, engine power. | up to 115 hp | up to 350 hp | Depends on the model. |
| Effort at the tiller | High (without GUR) | Minimum | Comfort of management |
| Difficulty of installation | Medium | High. | Master's skills |
| Service | Minimum | Replacement of fluid, pumping | Regularity of T |
Adjustment and testing of the system
Once the entire system is assembled, you need to do a comprehensive check. First, visualize all the mounts. Then, when you're on land, spin the steering wheel from point to point several times. The course should be smooth, without jerks or jamming. Pay special attention to the moment of transition through the "neutral." If you feel the backlash, you need to tighten the adjustment nuts on the tips of the cable.
A properly configured steering wheel should not have free travel in the center, but should not be pulled like a string, which creates excessive friction.
For final testing, go to a quiet area. Check the steering wheel at different speeds. In plane, the steering force may increase due to hydrodynamic resistance, but it must remain controlled. If the motor starts to prowl or the steering wheel becomes too tight, check the angles of the thrust installation and make sure that the cable is not squeezed anywhere.
Frequent errors and security measures
Many newcomers neglect regular maintenance, thinking the system is "put and forget." This is a misguided approach. Periodically, at least once a season, you need to remove the protective casings, clean the mechanism of dirt and salt, and lubricate moving parts, and check the condition of the cable for braid dissection.
Another common mistake is saving on fasteners: using conventional black bolts instead of galvanized or stainless ones will result in the fact that after one season you will not be able to unscrew connections without a Bulgarian.
- 🚫 Ignoring backlashes: Even a small knock in the mechanism will eventually break the seats.
- 🌊 No conservation: After the season in salt water, the mechanism must be washed with fresh water.
- ⚙️ Wrong lubrication: Using inappropriate lubricants kills the plastic hubs of the gearbox.
How often should the steering cable be changed?
The life of the cable depends on the intensity of operation and conditions. On average, the mechanical cable lasts 5-7 years. However, if you notice an increase in force on the helm, the appearance of jerks or visible damage to the braid, you need to replace immediately, regardless of the service life.
Can I install the steering wheel on a boat with a soft inflatable transom?
Installing full-fledged steering on a fully inflatable transom boat (without a rigid insert) is highly discouraged and often impossible. The mechanism requires a rigid mounting base. There are special transition plates for such boats, but their reliability is questionable when installing powerful motors.
What if the wheel becomes tight after winter?
It's probably got moisture frozen inside the machine, or thickened the lubricant, and try to swivel the steering wheel a few times to develop the mechanism, and if that doesn't work, you'll need to dismantle it, completely clean the old lubricant, and apply a new, frost-resistant lubricant.