Inflatable boats often reveal one major drawback of their standard equipment: a soft, slanting bottom, and many owners find that when they go out into the water in complete calm or when there is a strong wave. bottom It starts to bend, creating a hammock effect, which not only reduces speed and increases fuel consumption, but also significantly reduces comfort in the boat, especially when crossing long distances or fishing, which is why the issue of installing a hard floor becomes one of the most pressing for the modernization of the vessel.
Creation hard-sex For a PVC boat, you can make a dramatic change in the performance and ergonomics of the cockpit, you can have a flat surface that is comfortable to walk on, install additional seats or fix heavy equipment without the risk of damaging the cylinders, self-manufactured geometry allows you to perfectly fit a specific model, which is rarely achieved with commercial universal solutions, and it also saves significant money, since ready-made sleighs are often unnecessarily expensive.
In this article, we will take a look at the process from materials to final assembly, and learn about edge processing, sheet joining, and moisture protection. A properly constructed floor will transform your lightweight inflatable boat into a full-fledged hard-bottomed boat, while still allowing for quick disassembly and transportation, a solution that is especially relevant for those who value reliability and durability.
Advantages of a hard floor over an inflatable floor
The transition to rigid design has tangible benefits in operation. hydrodynamicsThe flat bottom is better at glides, the boat is easier to enter mode and requires less engine power to maintain speed. Hard sleighs do not bend under the weight of passengers and cargo, which ensures the stability of the course and predictable behavior of the vessel on the water.
The second important aspect is durability and safety: piercing the inflatable floor against a hook, knife or sharp edges of a tackle is much easier than damaging a quality plywood or composite. Hard flooring. It protects the bottom of the cylinders from abrasion on the ground when pulling the boat ashore, and it is much more convenient to place an anchor box, sonar or other accessories on a level surface that will stand stable and not roll.
- 🚀 Increased speed due to improved hydrodynamics of the body.
- ⚖️ Uniform distribution of load on cylinders and absence of hammock effect.
- 🛡️ Protecting the bottom of the boat from mechanical damage and punctures.
- 🪑 Ability to comfortably install stationary seats and equipment.
But the reverse side of the coin is also important: Hard floors are always heavier than inflatable floors, which increases the overall weight of the kit. If you are critical to each kilogram when carrying, this factor can be decisive. However, for most anglers and tourists, comfort and stability outweigh the inconvenience of excess weight.
Selection of material for the manufacture of slags
The basis for creating a quality floor is a material with high strength and resistance to water. plywoodUnlike conventional construction, it is glued with special water-resistant compounds and does not delaminate even with prolonged contact with moisture. The optimal sheet thickness for most boats up to 3.6 meters in length is 9-12 mm. Kazanka or boats over 4 meters long, plywood 15 mm thick may be required.
An alternative to plywood can be a composite material durit Durit is a multi-layered material based on fiberglass and polymers, lighter than plywood, absolutely no water absorber, and no rotting, but it costs a lot more, and the processing process at home requires a special tool and skills in working with composites. Fiberglass is also good, but it is time-consuming in making a matrix.
Why not take the usual plywood?
Conventional birch plywood (FC or FB) without the label "water resistant" or "marine" quickly absorb moisture through the ends and microcracks. After 2-3 seasons of active use, it will begin to layer, blacken and lose strength. The savings on the material in this case will lead to the need for a complete replacement of the floor as early as next year, which will make repair more expensive than the initial purchase of quality marine plywood.
When choosing plywood, pay attention to grade. For the floor, it is better to take sheets of grade 1/2 or 2/2, where one side is perfectly smooth. The presence of knots is permissible, but they should not fall out. It is important that the veneer is of high quality, without deep voids inside the layers. It is critically important to buy plywood brand FSF (Phenolformaldehyde), as it has increased water resistance.Unlike less stable analogues.
| Materials | Weight (kg/m2 at 10mm) | Water resistance | Difficulty processing | Price. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Marine plywood (FSF) | ~6.5 | High. | Low. | Medium |
| Durit composite | ~4.0 | Absolute. | High. | High. |
| Fiberglass | ~5.0 | Absolute. | Very high. | High. |
| Aluminum leaf | ~2.7 | Absolute. | Medium | Medium |
Tools and training required
Before you start cutting, you need to prepare the workspace and tools. You need an electric jigsaw with a clean cutting file or a circular saw. You don't need a hand hacksaw, because it's very difficult to get a perfectly flat edge, and that directly affects the tightness of the joints, and you also need a grinder or a bar with sandpaper of different grains.
Use a long ruler or a metal ruler, a roulette and a marker to mark your markup. Don't forget the personal protective equipment: a respirator and glasses, because you get a lot of fine dust from plywood filers. If you're planning on doing complex geometry, you might need a pattern of cardboard or thick paper.
- 🔨 An electric jigsaw or circular saw for smooth cutting.
- 📏 Metal ruler and roulette for accurate marking.
- 🪞 Grinding machine and sandpaper (grain 80, 120, 240).
- 🖌️ Hands and rollers for applying impregnation and varnish.
Special attention should be paid to surface preparation. The sheets should be dry and clean. If there are dirt or oil stains on the plywood, they should be removed before work begins. The quality of surface preparation directly affects the adhesion of paint materials.
Use paint tape along the cutting line when working with a jigsaw - this will help avoid chipping the veneer and get a perfectly smooth end that is easier to grind.
Technology of cutting and processing edges
The process of creating the floor begins with accurate measurements. Don't rely on the boat's data-sheet figures, as the geometry of the inflated cylinder may differ. Put the plywood sheets inside the inflated boat (or on a flat surface if the exact dimensions are taken), and mark the outlines. Leave a small gap of 3-5 mm between the sheets and the sides, so that when deformed in the sun or frost, the floor does not rest against the cylinders.
After cutting, the most important step is the treatment of the ends and surfaces, and it is through the ends of the plywood that it absorbs 90% of the moisture, and it needs to be carefully polished, all the villi and irregularities removed, then the impregnation stage. water-repellent For wood or heated olive oil, it is applied in several layers until it is fully saturated.
The final step is to varnish the coating, and the best way to do this is to use a yacht lacquer that is designed for extreme conditions, apply it in 3-4 layers, thoroughly drying each layer according to the manufacturer's instructions, and create a durable polymer film that protects the tree from water, ultrafiret and mechanical damage.
☑️ End treatment steps
The water that gets inside the plywood structure will expand when it freezes and destroy the material from the inside. sealing It has to be absolute.
Construction and connection options
There are two main ways to connect the floor sheets: junction using the groove profiles and groove-crest method. The first option is easier to implement yourself. It uses aluminum or plastic profiles that are attached to the ends of the sheets. The second option requires milling edges, which is more difficult to do at home, but it is stronger and has no protruding elements at the bottom.
When assembling the floor, it is important to use seals between the sheets to prevent plywood from friction against the plywood and water from entering the gap. Often, rubber bands or special profiles with a seal are used for this. Profiles are fastened to screws with press plywood, it is better to drill the holes beforehand and smear the holes with a sealant.
If you choose the profile option, make sure that the bottom of the profile does not have sharp edges that can damage the bottom of the boat. All screw hats should be recessed or covered with plugs. The design should be assembled effortlessly, the sheets should fit tightly together, forming a single plane.
⚠️ Attention: Never use conventional nails or screws to connect floor sheets without protective coatings. In constant humidity, they will quickly rust, and the rust will destroy the plywood structure around the fastener, and can also stain the bottom of the boat. Use only galvanized fasteners or stainless steel products.
Protection from moisture and finishing
Even well-treated plywood requires maintenance. After each operation, it is advisable to dry the boat. If the floor has been filled with water, it must be removed, wiped and allowed to dry in undocked form. Periodically, once a season, it is recommended to conduct a revision of the coating. If scratches or scuffs appear on the varnish, these places should be cleaned and covered with a new layer of varnish.
For added protection, you can use a non-slip coating, you can put special EVA mats on the plywood, or you can apply a special paint with a quartz filler, which not only improves safety, but also protects the wood from mechanical wear, and the coating should be elastic so that it does not crack when it deforms.
Keep the hard floors in a dry, disassembled way. Don't leave the collected floors in the boat for a long time, especially in winter, as temperature changes and condensation can negatively affect even the highest quality treatment.
The quality of the finishing and regular care of it is more important than the thickness of the plywood itself. A good varnish will save even a 9 mm sheet, and a bad one will not protect a 15 mm one.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How much will the weight of a hard-floor boat increase?
Weight depends on the area of the bottom and the thickness of the plywood. On average, a boat floor kit of 3.2-3.6 meters in 9-10 mm plywood will add about 10-15 kg to the weight of the boat. This is a significant addition, but it is fully compensated for by comfort and improved driving performance.
Can I use regular laminated plywood?
Laminated plywood is a good option, but with caution. Laminate only protects the plane of the sheet, but the ends are vulnerable. They will have to be handled with great care. Also, smooth laminate can be slippery, so you need additional anti-slip coating.
How often should I change the coating?
In active use (20-30 outputs per season), the coating should be reviewed once a year; full repainting may be required in 3-5 years, depending on the intensity of use and storage conditions.
Will the plywood floor withstand the installation of the outboard motor?
The floor itself does not hold the motor, the motor is attached to the transom. However, the hard floor distributes the weight of the motor and the driver throughout the bottom area, reducing the load on the cylinders and the transom plate. The strength of the transom is important for the installation of the motor, and the floor only ensures the stability of the platform.