Inflatable swimmers know that the most vulnerable part of the design is the bottom of the cylinders: sharp stones on rolls, prickly reeds, snags sticking out of the water and even broken glass can instantly turn a pleasant walk into an emergency situation with the risk of complete flooding. PVC boat bottom reservation It is becoming not just a desirable option, but a vital necessity for those who plan to operate a boat in difficult conditions.

The modern market offers many solutions for strengthening the design, from factory linings to artisanal methods of protection using transporter belts. The choice of a specific material directly affects the performance, weight of equipment and durability of the product itself. In this article, we will discuss in detail all available methods of protection, analyze their advantages and disadvantages, and consider the technology of self-assembly.

Ignoring protection can be significantly more expensive than investing in quality materials, and damaged fabrics require expensive repairs that do not always guarantee restoration of the original strength and tightness of the seams.

Why you need to book the bottom and what risks it eliminates

The main function of the booking is to create a mechanical barrier between the aggressive external environment and the main body of the boat. PVC fabric, even at a density of 1100 g / m2, is not able to withstand constant blows to gravel or friction against the sand without losing its properties. Polyvinyl chloride It will eventually wear off, becoming thinner and more vulnerable to punctures.

Protection is especially important for boats used in shallow waters, mountain rivers or in places with abundant aquatic vegetation. Owners often underestimate the danger of bottom debris that is hidden under the water. Sudden contact with valves or sharp slates when landing can be fatal.

And also, booking takes some of the loads of dragging the boat along the shore, and instead of washing the main tank, you sacrifice the sacrificial layer, which is easier and cheaper to replace.

  • πŸ›‘οΈ Mechanical strength: Protection from punctures with sharp objects, stones and spikes of plants.
  • πŸ’§ Leakproofness: Prevent microcracks that can lead to air etching over time.
  • πŸ—οΈ Durability: Increase the service life of the main body due to the distribution of abrasive load.

It's worth noting that the armour also serves as an extra rib, and the inflated underside with the overlays is less deformed when faced with the wave, which has a positive effect on course stability, but it's important not to overdo the thickness of the material, so as not to disturb the hydrodynamics.

⚠️ Attention: Excessive thickening of the bottom can lead to the formation of a β€œbubble” under the legs, which worsens the controllability of the boat and increases the risk of injury during sharp braking.

πŸ“Š What type of bottom does your PVC boat have?
NDND (inflatable)
floorboards (plywood/aluminum)
Slate (tree)
Leman (flat)
I know.

Overview of materials for protection: from transporter belt to liquid rubber

The choice of material for booking is always a compromise between weight, cost and reliability. There are several main directions, each of which has its own followers. conveyor-band, used on conveyors.

This material is highly durable and affordable, but it has a significant drawback of heavy weight and stiffness, which can make it difficult to assemble a boat during the cold season, and it is not always perfectly glued to PVC without special surface preparation.

Alternatively, specialized PVC fabric linings of increased density (1500-1800 g / m2) are glued using hot vulcanization technology or using two-component adhesives, creating a monolithic connection with the main body.

Materials Weight (kg/m2) Cost Difficulty of installation
Transporter belt 3.5 - 4.5 Low. High.
PVC fabric (1500 g/m2) 1.5 - 1.8 Medium Medium
Liquid rubber 0.5 - 1.0 High. Low.
Kevlar grid. 0.8 - 1.2 High. High.

Composite materials are worth special attention and kevlarThey provide phenomenal protection at a minimum weight, but they can cost more than the cost of the budget set of the boat itself. Liquid rubber and polyurethane mastics are good for sealing seams, but as the main protection of the stones they are inferior to hard materials.

The secret of choosing glue for transporter tape

For reliable adherence of the transporter tape to PVC is not enough conventional adhesive. You need to use special primers to activate the surface of the rubber and polyurethane two-component compounds, otherwise the tape will leave after the season.

Preparation before protection

The quality of the reservation depends on the surface preparation, 80%, and even the most expensive material will not be kept on dirty, greasy or wet fabric. The first step is to thoroughly wash the bottom using specialized PVC detergents.

After drying, you need to degrease, using solvents like acetone or special degreasings that do not contain chlorine, and it is important not to rub too much so as not to damage the protective lacquer layer of tissue, if any.

The next step is marking. You need to clearly identify the areas that need protection, usually the central part of the bottom, the nose and the contact areas with stringers or floorboards.

  1. Wash the boat and dry completely at a temperature of not less than 20 Β° C.
  2. Degrease the surface at the places of alleged gluing.
  3. Make a pattern of protective material with a margin of 2-3 cm.
  4. Prepare tools: roller, hair dryer, brush and loads.

If you use a transporter tape, the working side (the one that will contact the bottom) should be cleaned with sandpaper or abrasive mesh before the pile appears, which will increase the contact area and improve adhesion of the glue.

πŸ’‘

Use paint tape to pre-fix the pattern on the boat, which will help you accurately assess the location of the protective strips and avoid distortion before applying the glue.

Installation technology: step-by-step instructions

The process of sticking protection requires patience and compliance with temperature regime: the optimal temperature for working with PVC and adhesives is from 20 to 25 degrees Celsius, the humidity should not exceed 60%.

Apply the first layer of glue on both surfaces (boat and shield) and let it dry until it is "stick" (usually 10-20 minutes, depending on the instructions), then apply the second layer and let it dry again.

Connect the surfaces from the center to the edges, carefully driving the air bubbles with a roller, the movements should be strong and directed from the center to the periphery, after rolling the gluing site, it is advisable to warm up the building hair dryer to 60-70 degrees and roll again.

Gluing algorithm:

1. degreasing (solvent 646 or special means)

2. Applying glue (layer 1) -> Drying 15 min

3. Applying glue (layer 2) -> Drying 10 min

Activation by heating (hair dryer 60Β°C)

5. Bonding and rolling

Final heating and rolling

Pay special attention to the edges of the linings. This is where the detachment most often begins, the edges should be carefully rolled and, if possible, additionally smeared with a thin layer of glue or sealant for seams.

β˜‘οΈ Quality control of gluing

Done: 0 / 4

Comparison of factory and self-booking

Many manufacturers offer a reinforced bottom option already at the stage of buying a boat, factory reservations are made, as a rule, of the same PVC fabric as the boat itself, but of greater density, and glued to comply with all technological standards.

The advantage of the factory version is the warranty and aesthetic appearance, the seams are neatly designed, the weight is evenly distributed, but the cost of this option can be high, and the choice of materials is limited by the range of the plant.

Self-booking gives you complete freedom of choice, you can only put protection where you want and use materials of any thickness, but here you take all the risks: a mistake in technology can lead to damage to the boat.

  • 🏭 Factory: Quality assurance, high price, standard solutions.
  • πŸ› οΈ With my hands: Cheaper, individual approach, risk of mistakes.
  • βš–οΈ Balance: It is optimal to buy a boat with a reinforced bottom from the manufacturer, and additional linings to make yourself if necessary.

If you plan to operate actively in extreme conditions, a combination of factory reinforcement and additional overlays from the transporter belt at critical points will be the best solution.

⚠️ Warning: Self-adhesive underside gluing may void the manufacturer's warranty for seam tightness and fabric integrity. Carefully review the warranty card before starting work.

Impact of booking on driving performance and weight

Any thickening of the bottom changes the hydrodynamics of the boat, a smooth bottom provides better sliding through the water, whereas a relief or too thick creates additional resistance, which is especially noticeable in glides.

Weight gain is another important factor: a set of materials to book the entire floor area can add 3 to 7 kilograms to the weight of the boat. For a single boat, this is a significant increase, affecting load capacity and speed.

However, for heavy motor boats with NDMA (low pressure inflatable floor) slight weighting is often offset by improved course stability, and the boat becomes less susceptible to lateral demolition by wind and wave.

It's important to consider that rigid linings can interfere with the proper operation of an inflatable keel or stringer, and if the lining pushes the balloon, it can deform when pumped, so the geometry of the protective elements must be matched very precisely.

πŸ’‘

The optimal thickness of the additional layer of protection should not exceed 2-3 mm, so as not to disturb the geometry of the inflated bottom and not create excessive resistance to water.

Caring and maintenance of an armored boat

A boat with an armored bottom requires special attention when drying and packaging. Water can stagnate in the folds between the main body and the lining, leading to mold and unpleasant odor.

When folding the boat, make sure that the fold lines do not fall on the same spots of the protective linings all the time, which can lead to the formation of PVC cloth cladding under the lining.

Check the edges periodically, if you notice a detachment, immediately repair the site using the same glue as the installation, and keep the sand and dirt from being exposed to the detached lining, as this works like an abrasive.

It is better to keep such a boat in straightened form or in suspended condition to avoid pressure of the weight of the boat itself on the gluing sites for a long period.

How to remove the smell of rubber after gluing?

Fresh glue and new rubber can smell a lot. Ventilation in the fresh air in the shade for 2-3 days completely eliminates the chemical smell, do not use flavors inside the boat.

Can I put protection on a wet or wet boat?

It's absolutely impossible. If you have moisture between the layers, the adhesive doesn't polymerize correctly, and the protection goes into immediate use, and the water can be preserved inside, causing tissue to rot or fungus to form.

Do I need to clean the transporter belt on both sides?

No, only the side of the ribbon that will contact the boat needs to be cleaned (to make it rough) and the outside should remain smooth for better sliding on water and rocks, although some specifically make it rough for anti-slip effects.

How much dry the adhesive for booking before the first descent into the water?

Complete polymerization of the adhesive takes 24 to 72 hours depending on the air temperature and the type of composition used. It is not recommended to launch the boat before this time, since the water pressure can disrupt the seam that is not yet strong.

Will the booking affect the manufacturer’s warranty?

In most cases, any interference with the design, including the adhesion of foreign materials, removes the warranty. The manufacturer cannot be held responsible for the integrity of the seams if the gluing technology has been violated by the user.

πŸ’‘

When buying a transporter belt, pay attention to its strength class. For PVC boats, the best belt is the TK-200 or TK-300 class. Stronger classes will be unnecessarily heavy and rigid.