With the onset of cold weather, every boat owner is faced with the need to preserve the equipment until the next season. For owners of inflatable boats, this process is critical, since polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and glued seams are extremely sensitive to temperature changes and improper preservation. Preparation errors can lead to the fact that by spring you will find stratification of seams or “blowing” fabric, which will require expensive repairs.
Proper handling of the boat before winter storage is not just water washing, but a set of measures to protect the material from mold, oxidation and loss of elasticity. chemical composition of pollutionThe stains that remain on the surface after the season are aggressive and continue to destroy the structure of tissue even in a dry state, so quality cleaning and subsequent impregnation with protective compounds are mandatory steps.
In this article, we will discuss what is really effective and what can cause irreparable harm to your vessel. You will learn about the nuances of working with different types of coatings, the features of the bottom and board treatment, and how to organize the storage site correctly to eliminate the risk of rodents or condensation.
Primary washing and removal of aggressive contaminants
The first and most important step is to thoroughly clean the hull of all kinds of contaminants, and during navigation, the surface accumulates silt, algae, residues of fuels and fish slime, which are organic and chemical compounds that are ideal for the development of bacteria that will multiply actively in a warm room, destroying the upper protective layer of PVC.
First, use ordinary pressurized water to wash away large mud, but for deep cleaning, you won't need a single pressure. cleaning-upIt is free of chlorine, acetone or other aggressive solvents that can damage plasticizers in the fabric, and is ideal for soft surfactants or specialized shampoos for inflatable boats.
Pay special attention to the joints of the cylinders and the bottom, and the areas around the transom. This is where moisture and dirt accumulate most often, which are difficult to wash out with a simple jet. Use a soft sponge or brush with non-abrasive bristles. Hard brushes can leave micro-scratches in which dirt will later accumulate, making it even more difficult to remove.
Degreasing and deep surface cleaning
After the main dirt is removed, degreasing is a critical step if you plan to apply protective compounds or restore the coating, and often invisible to the eye, the fat film prevents the protective emulsions from entering the pores of the material, reducing their effectiveness to zero.
For degreasing, it is best to use specialized PVC cleaners or, in extreme cases, a high-concentration soap solution. It is strongly recommended not to use gasoline, kerosene or aggressive household chemicals. These substances can wash plasticizers from the polymer structure, making the fabric brittle and prone to cracking when inflated.
In the cleaning process, carefully check the surface for minor punctures or scuffs. In winter, with temperature changes, microcracks can expand. If you find defects, it is better to seal them or remake them immediately, without delaying until spring, this will save you time and ensure that the vessel is sealed at the beginning of the season.
Remember to wash out hard-to-reach areas such as valves and transom placements. These areas often stagnate with water, which when frozen can damage the glue seam, blow the valves with compressed air or thoroughly wipe them with dry rags after washing.
Protective treatment: how to lubricate PVC
The question of how to process the boat often involves choosing the right protective equipment, and the main goal of this stage is to restore the elasticity of the material and create a barrier that prevents drying out. During the winter, even in a heated room, the air can be dry, leading to loss of plasticizers and the aging of plastic.
The best solution is silicone lubricants and special emulsions for PVC. They create a thin, elastic film that does not stick to dust and retains the properties of the material. Unlike oils, silicone does not oxidize and does not form the sticky layer that would become a magnet for dirt next season.
There is a common misconception that a boat can be lubricated with vegetable oil or solidol. This cannot be done categorically.Organic oils get rancid over time, get unpleasant odors, and can cause a chemical reaction with the glue of the sutures, leading to their stratification, Solidol, when it freezes, clogs the pores of the material, preventing it from "breathe".
When choosing a product, pay attention to its purpose. Some formulations are designed only to give shine, others are designed to deep penetrate and restore the structure. For winter storage, priority should be given to products labeled "for preservation" or "restore elasticity."
Can WD-40 be used to handle the boat?
WD-40 is not designed for long-term preservation of PVC. It contains solvents that can temporarily soften the surface, but after evaporation will leave the material dry. It can also adversely affect adhesive seams. Use only specialized products.
Features of bottom processing and antifoil coatings
If your boat is equipped with a high pressure inflatable floor (HDVD) or has a rigid flooring, the approach to their treatment may be different. The bottom experiences the greatest mechanical stress and contact with abrasives (sand, stones), so its protection requires special attention.
For boats that have been operating in bodies of water with abundant vegetation, the problem of fouling is relevant. antifollowing Before wintering, make sure that the layer is intact, and damage to antifolting must be repaired, as in winter, biocidal residues can continue to react with the material if stored improperly.
The bottom treatment also includes checking for slime, which is friction on the ground, and these are thinner and need careful handling, and applying the protective compound to the bottom more abundantly than on the board, creating an additional buffer layer, which will help you survive possible temperature changes without microcracks.
If you keep the boat assembled or partially assembled, make sure that this does not create any risk of injury when moving.
Before applying any protective composition, be sure to test it on an inconspicuous section of the boat (for example, on the inside of the transom reflector) to make sure there is no negative reaction of the material.
Drying and packaging: avoiding moisture
The worst enemy of PVC storage is moisture left in the folds of cloth. Even a small amount of water preserved inside a rolled-up boat will become a breeding ground for mold and fungus by spring. Mold not only emits a nasty smell, but also literally eats away at the cloth, leaving black spots that are almost impossible to remove.
Drying the boat in the shade, avoiding direct sunlight, which when heated can deform still wet material. The drying process should be natural. Using hair dryers or heat guns to speed up the process is unacceptable - a sharp heating of wet PVC will lead to tissue stratification.
Make sure not only the outer surfaces but also the inner cavities are dry if the boat has a double bottom or inflatable elements inside the cockpit. The valves must be open during drying to allow air circulation inside the cylinders.
Once completely dry, you can start to fold, so you don't need to use vacuum bags or squeeze the boat tightly with belts, the material should "breathe." The best option is to store it in an extended form (suspended) or in a free bag of breathable fabric.
☑️ Checklist before packaging
Storage location organization and temperature regime
Where and how to store a boat in winter? The ideal environment is a dry, dark room with a constant temperature of +5 to +20 degrees Celsius. The sharp temperature changes typical of unheated garages or balconies cause the material to expand and contract cyclically, which accelerates its aging.
Ultraviolet is the second most dangerous factor. Even in winter, sunlight passing through a window can break down the molecular bonds in PVC. So storage should be organized away from windows or under a dense cover material that does not let light through.
It is important to avoid contact with sharp objects and chemicals, do not store the craft near canisters of gasoline, acids or alkalis, vapors of these substances can settle on the surface of the boat and react with the material.
It's also worth taking care of rodent protection. Mice and rats often choose warm inflatable boats to make nests by chewing through cloth, place repellents around the storage area, or use ultrasonic devices.
⚠️ Attention: Never keep a fully pumped boat in a warm room in winter. As the temperature rises, the air inside will expand, which will create excessive pressure on the seams and can cause the boat to rupture.
Comparative table of PVC processing tools
To make it easier for you to choose from PVC treatment before storage, we have prepared a comparative table of the main types of products, the choice depends on the condition of your boat and the conditions in which it will winter.
| Type of instrument | Substantive function | Pluses | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| silicone emulsion | Protection and elasticity | It doesn't stick, it lasts long, it doesn't smell. | High price. |
| Specialized spray | Fast processing | Ease of application, accessibility | Small volume, quickly consumed |
| Soap solution | Cleanup | Cheap, affordable. | Not protecting, washed away with water |
| Glycerin (diluted) | Mitigation | Cheap, safe. | It can stick, it attracts dust. |
⚠️ Attention: Avoid using products containing petroleum products (oils, solidol, petroleum petroleum) to treat large areas of PVC. They can cause swelling of the material and destruction of adhesive seams in the long term.
Frequent mistakes in preparing for winter
Many owners, in an effort to save time or money, make mistakes that only become noticeable in the spring, one of the most common is the packaging of a wet or wet boat, and even if the boat seems to be dry, moisture in the folds remains, guaranteed to lead to mold.
Another mistake is using aggressive chemistry to remove complex stains, and when you try to erase fuel oil or paint, owners often throw solvents on the boat that corrode the top layer of the protective layer, which results in matte, rough, and loses its water-repellent properties.
It is also a mistake to keep the boat under strain or heavy objects. Prolonged deformation of the fabric can lead to "tired" cracks, especially in the places of bends. The boat must lie free, without clamps.
Ignoring small defects is another way to get in trouble: a small cut left unattended can turn into a big hole over the winter due to temperature fluctuations in the material.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use open sources of heat (batteries, fires, heaters) to dry the boat. Local overheating of PVC above + 60 ° C can cause irreversible deformation and loss of strength.
The pledge of long service of the PVC boat is an integrated approach: thorough washing, careful drying, treatment with silicone-containing compounds and storage in the correct temperature conditions.
Recovery after wintering
When the season opens, don't rush to pump the boat and launch it. After winter hibernation, the material takes time to adapt. Get the boat out, spread it out, and leave it at room temperature for a few hours.
Check the pressure in the cylinders. If it drops in the winter (which is normal due to cooling), just pump it up. If the pressure is not maintained, check the valves and seams for microcracks.
Before the first descent into the water, it is recommended to rinse the boat again with clean water to wash away the dust that settled during storage, and then you can safely go to the pond, confident in the reliability of your boat.
Regular maintenance and proper preservation extend the life of a PVC boat by 5-7 years or more, and neglecting these rules can cut the life of a reliable boat in half, turning a reliable boat into a pile of rags in a couple of seasons.
What to do if the boat is frozen?
If the boat is kept cold and frozen, do not try to bend or twist it. Put it in a warm room and let it thaw naturally in the straightened state. Mechanical exposure to frozen PVC is guaranteed to break the material.
Can I keep a PVC boat in the cold?
Storage at low temperatures is allowed, but not desirable. PVC becomes brittle in the cold. If the boat is kept in the cold, it cannot be touched, bent or moved until it is fully warmed to plus temperatures. The best option is a heated room.
How often should the boat be handled with a protective compound?
It is recommended to carry out full treatment with washing and impregnation at least once a year - before winter storage. If the boat is operated very actively or in an aggressive environment (salt water, swamp), processing can be carried out in the middle of the season.
How to remove rust from the transom of the boat?
To remove rust from the metal transom, use special rust converters or soft abrasive sponges. It is important not to damage the adjacent PVC fabric. After cleaning, be sure to paint the metal with anti-corrosion paint.
Why did the boat become sticky after processing?
Stickiness can occur when using too much of a non-PVC product (such as oil) or when applying the compound to a poorly cleaned surface, in which case the boat needs to be washed again with a degreaser.