Operating an inflatable vessel in real-world conditions often involves risks that are not taken into account in ideal factory testing: Rocky shores, sharp shells at the bottom of a reservoir and abrasive sand act as sand on the heels of a boat, thinning the main material. PVC boat bottom reservation It becomes not just a desirable option, but a necessity to extend the life of the boat and maintain its running specifications.
Protecting the most vulnerable areas requires not only high-quality materials, but also strict adherence to gluing technology. Temperature disturbances or improper surface preparation can nullify all efforts, leaving the vessel vulnerable to mechanical damage. In this article, we will discuss in detail which materials are best suited for this task and how to perform the work professionally.
Why you need a booking and which areas are most vulnerable
The main purpose of the installation of additional protection is to transfer the point of contact with the aggressive external environment from the main hull to the replaceable sacrificial layer. The bottom of the boat, especially in the area of heels and stringers, experiences tremendous loads when dragging along the shore and heading out on the water. Polyvinyl chlorideThe stain from which the balloon is made, over time, wears out, which can lead to depressurization.
The most critical areas are the nose, where initial contact with obstacles occurs, and the center of the bottom under the feet of rowers or seats. reinforced-cloth allows you to distribute pressure and protect the main layer from direct exposure to sharp objects.
⚠️ Attention: Ignoring the abrasion of the bottom can lead to the fact that at a critical moment on the water you will find microcracks that cannot be sealed in the field without special equipment.
In addition to mechanical protection, the armour serves as a reinforcement function, and additional layers of fabric increase the rigidity of the bottom, which is especially true for boats where the low-pressure inflatable floor (LDPB) experiences deformation when planing, which helps to preserve the geometry of the vessel and improve its handling.
Selection of material for booking: PVC or Rubber?
Before starting work, you need to decide on the type of material. There are two main options on the market: specialized PVC boat fabric and rubber mats (often automotive or specialized boats), each of which has its own advantages and applications.
Fabric PVC (for example, Tectonics, Belaruss, Valmex) is the most organic choice: it is chemically compatible with the main material of the boat, which ensures the monolithic compound when using two-component polyurethane adhesives. The density of such fabrics usually varies from 700 to 1100 g/m2.
Rubber pads, in turn, have high elasticity and excellent abrasive resistance. However, their attachment requires special adhesive compounds, often based on chloroprene, which may differ in adhesion to PVC. Rubber is better cushioning shocks, but heavier and more difficult to install.
| Parameter | PVC fabric (Reinforced) | Rubber linings | Combined solutions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Weight. | Medium. | Highly | Highly |
| Adhesion to the hull | Perfect (chemical welding) | It requires special glue. | Depends on the layer. |
| Resistance to abrasion | High. | Very high. | Maximum |
| Difficulty of installation | Medium | High. | High. |
The color of the material should also be considered when choosing: light colors heat less in the sun, but they get dirty faster.gray, black, salad) are more practical in terms of visual contamination, but may contribute to local glue overheating in summer heat.
Necessary tools and surface preparation
The quality of the reservation is 80 percent dependent on surface preparation, and even the most expensive glue won't be greasy or dusty, and you'll need a toolkit that allows you to do the job accurately and reliably.
For degreasing, it is best to use specialized solvents, such as acetone or tolueneIt's important not to use aggressive chemicals that can damage plasticizers in the fabric, making it brittle, and you'll also need a hard brush or a medium-grain grinding skin.
- 🧪 Solvent (acetone, white spiritite) and rags without pile
- ✂️ Scissors and a sharp knife for cutting material
- 🌡️ Building hair dryer with temperature adjustment
- 🖌️ Brushes (hard synthetic) or spatula for applying glue
- 📏 Marker and line for contours
Before applying the glue, the surface of the boat and the inside of the lining must be cleaned, which creates micro scratches that increase the contact area, and after cleaning, the dust is carefully removed, and the surface is degreased. Important: degrease should be immediately before gluing, so that the dust does not have time to settle.
☑️ Checklist of preparations
Technology of gluing: step-by-step instructions
The process of adhesives requires patience and time intervals. Most polyurethane adhesives (PPU)UR-600, Claiberit, Desmokol) operate on the principle of double-layer application with intermediate drying.
First, the glue is applied in a thin, uniform layer on both glued surfaces. Don't try to apply more glue, it won't strengthen the connection, it will only increase the drying time and the risk of bubbles. After the first application, the surfaces are dried to "stick" (usually 15-30 minutes, depending on temperature).
Then a second layer is applied. After partial polymerization (when the glue stops sticking to the fingers, but retains stickiness), a compound is made. To activate the properties of the surface glue, it is recommended to warm up with a hair dryer to a temperature of 60-80 ° C. It is critically important not to overheat PVC above 100°C, as this will lead to irreversible tissue deformation.
⚠️ Warning: When working with a hair dryer, keep it 5-10 cm from the surface and move constantly to avoid local burning of the material.
Once the parts are connected, you need to make sure that you have a strong roller. Use a hard roller to drive air from the center to the edges. The pressure must be considerable to ensure maximum contact between the glue and the fabric. Complete polymerization of the seam takes 24 to 72 hours.
What to do if the glue dries too quickly?
If you applied the second layer of glue, but you didn't have time to glue the parts together, and the glue stopped sticking, don't apply a new layer immediately. Warm the surface with a hairdryer before the old layer is activated, or carefully remove the dried adhesive with a solvent and start the process again with a sweep. Re-applying to the dead layer without activation will not work.
Features of installation on boats with NDND and hard bottom
The design of the bottom affects the booking strategy. NDMA They have a complex geometry with many seams and stringers, and it's not always advisable to book a bottom completely because of the loss of elasticity.
For BNDD, it is recommended to make local overlays only on the heels and the most protruding parts. The overlays should be thin enough not to prevent balloon inflating and deflation. Often the technique is used "in-displacement" when layers of fabric overlap each other with displacement.
In the case of boats under plywood Or an aluminum profile, you can book more space, and you need protection from abrasion of the paiole edge, and the thickness of the paioles can be increased because the flexibility requirements are lower.
- 🛶 For NDNDL, we use a thin fabric (up to 850 g / m2)
- 🪵 For boats with slurry, a permissible density of 1100 g / m2 and above
- 🔺 The shape of the linings should repeat the curves of the cylinder without tension
When mounting on the inflatable floor, it is important not to block the valves and interconnections of the overflows. Disturbance of air circulation within the sections can lead to uneven inflating and deformation of the boat under load.
When you open the NDNDLs, make rounded corners. The sharp corners tend to bend and peel off first, creating a hotbed for further destruction of the defense.
Typical errors and care for armored linings
Even with quality materials, beginners often make mistakes that reduce the durability of protection, the most common being not degreasing enough, and the fat film is invisible to the eye, but it acts as a separation layer.
The second mistake is gluing at low temperature or high humidity; condensation on the surface will destroy the glue seam; the optimal temperature for work is from +15 ° C to +25 ° C. Also, do not rush into operation: the boat needs time to gain strength.
⚠️ Warning: Do not try to speed up the drying of the glue by leaving the boat in direct sunlight or by the battery. Sharp heating can cause the solvent to boil inside the seam and bubbles to appear.
Caring for the armored bottom is simple: after each fishing, wash the boat with fresh water, washing away the sand and salt. Periodically check the condition of the edges of the linings. If you notice detachment, immediately repair it without waiting for the water to reach the main hull.
Properly executed booking increases the life of the boat by 2-3 times, fully recouping the cost of materials and time spent on installation.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I put armor in the garage in winter?
You can glue if the temperature in the room is stable above +15 ° C. However, it is important that both the boat and the glue warm up to room temperature. The cold material may have condensation, and the cold glue will be too thick for normal adhesion.
Which glue is better: single or two-component?
For booking the bottom, which is subject to constant deformation and loads, it is definitely better polyurethaneIt creates a more elastic and durable seam, resistant to water and temperature changes, compared to single-component counterparts.
Do I need to clean the lining before the glue?
Yes, it is. Smooth surface of new PVC fabric or rubber has low adhesion. Easy cleaning (wounding) of the surface of the lining with a skin will significantly improve adhesion.
How long can you put the boat on the water after peeling?
The minimum time of primary polymerization is 24 hours at a temperature of +20 ° C. However, to gain maximum strength (especially resistance to exfoliation under load), it is recommended to wait 48-72 hours before the first descent into the water.