Ending navigation is not a reason to simply shut down the engine and put the machinery in the garage before spring. Improper preservation can lead to the fact that by the beginning of next season you will get expensive repairs instead of the pleasure of cruising. Corrosion, solidifying fuel and the destruction of rubber seals are the main enemies in wait. boat-engine during the downtime.
The preparation process depends on the type of engine, whether it is a two-stroke classic or a modern four-stroke, but the basic principles remain unchanged. In this article, we will examine all the steps from washing the cooling system to choosing the right storage position. A competent approach will save you significant money and time to restore the equipment.
It's important to understand that the storage conditions in a heated room and in an unheated warehouse are radically different, and ignoring these differences can have fatal consequences for cylinders and carburetors. Let's look at a step-by-step algorithm that will keep your equipment from winter testing.
Primary preparation and washing of the unit
The first and most critical step is to thoroughly clean the outer surface of the motor. The salt, silt, sand and algae residues left on the body are an aggressive environment that causes rapid damage. corrosion Wash the engine with fresh water immediately after each release to salt water, but before wintering this must be done with special care.
Use a soft brush and special washing agents for boat equipment to remove oil film and dirt. Pay special attention to hard-to-reach places around the lower unit and water pump. After washing, the engine must be thoroughly dried to prevent condensation inside the casing.
⚠️ Warning: Never wash a hot engine under a jet of cold water! A sharp temperature drop can cause the cylinder heads to deform or microcrack in the metal.
After drying, it is recommended to treat the outer metal surfaces with an anti-corrosion spray, this will create a protective barrier against moisture, which will inevitably be present in the air in winter, and it is also worth lubricating all the points of the hinges and thrust control of gas and gear shifting.
Use silicone lubricant for lower unit rubber seals and ossils to prevent them from drying out and cracking over the winter.
Conservation of the fuel system and engine
The fuel system requires a personalized approach depending on the type of engine you have, and the old fuel left in the carburetor or the fuel lines oxidizes during the winter, turning into a viscous substance that completely clogs the jellybras. two-stroke The procedure of conservation has its own specifications associated with the presence of oil in gasoline.
In four-stroke engines, the situation is even more serious because of the presence of engine oil in the crankcase. Acids formed during combustion and engine operation can corrode the internal parts if the oil is not replaced before storage, so changing the oil is a must, not a recommendation.
For proper conservation, follow the following steps:
- 🛢️ Drain the remnants of old fuel from the tank and develop its residues in the engine until completely stopped.
- 🔧 Replace the engine oil in the gearbox and crankcase (for 4T) with fresh, even if it has changed recently.
- ⛽ Pour fresh gasoline into the tank with the addition of a fuel stabilizer and let the engine work for 5-10 minutes.
- 🧹 Blow the carburetor or use conservation oil for two-strokes.
Fuel stabilizer is a chemical additive that prevents the breakdown of hydrocarbons and the oxidation of gasoline. Without it, gasoline loses its properties after 3-4 months, turning into resin. The use of a fuel stabilizer is mandatory if you plan to keep a full-tank motor for more than 30 days.
Corrosion protection and surface treatment
Aluminum alloys, which are used to make cylinder blocks and diewoods, are susceptible to electrochemical corrosion. Sea water is particularly aggressive, but river water with fertilizer impurities can cause significant harm. After washing and drying, a visual inspection for paint chips should be performed.
Any chip, even the smallest, should be cleaned with fine sandpaper and painted with a corresponding pencil or aerosol enamel, which will prevent the development of a rust source that can go deep into the metal, and it is also worth treating the propeller, since cavitation erosion on the blades is the ideal place to start corrosion.
To protect your electrical contacts, use a spray grease that displaces moisture. Contact oxidation is a common cause of problems starting in the spring. Remove battery terminals if it's connected, and check the condition of high-voltage wires and candles.
| Component | Type of protection | Frequency of processing |
|---|---|---|
| Exterior jacket | Anti-corrosion spray / Polyryl | 1 time before wintering |
| The propeller | Lubrication Litol-24 / Graphite lubrication | 1 time before wintering |
| Electrical contacts | Contact Cleaner (Contact Cleaner) | 1 time before wintering |
| Rubber seals | Silicone lubricant | 1 time in season |
Storage rules: position and temperature
The choice of the position of the motor during storage is a question that is often controversial. boat-engine This is because this position allows for the complete discharge of water from the cooling system and prevents oil from leaking into the cylinders.
However, if space is limited, storage is allowed in a horizontal position, but strictly on a certain side specified in the instructions (usually the left side, if viewed from the side of the lower unit).
⚠️ Warning: Never store the motor upside down! this will result in guaranteed oil entering the combustion chamber and carburetor, causing a hydraulic shock on the first run.
Temperature is also important, and the ideal is a dry, heated room with temperatures ranging from +5 to +20 degrees Celsius, and extreme temperature changes contribute to condensation inside the engine, which is highly undesirable.
Can I keep the engine in the cold?
Storage in the cold is acceptable, but it requires complete conservation. The main danger is the remaining water in the cooling shirt, which, when frozen, will expand and rupture the cylinder block. Make sure that the system is completely dry.
Specifics of storage of two-stroke and four-stroke engines
Two-stroke engines are structurally simpler, but more demanding of the quality of the fuel mixture when preserved. Since they do not have a separate lubrication system, the oil is directly in the gasoline. During prolonged standing, heavy fractions of oil can settle and gasoline evaporate, leaving sticky soak.
Four-stroke engines have a complex valve system and a separate crankcase with oil, which is critical not only to the quality of the fuel, but also to the state of the oil in the crankcase, and the acidic environment of old oil can damage the bearings of the crankshaft and the camshaft neck during winter downtime.
Key differences in training:
- 🔩 In 2T engines, you need to introduce conservation oil into the cylinders through candle holes before the last fuel production.
- 🛢️ In 4T engines, oil replacement in the crankcase is a mandatory procedure, unlike the 2T, where the oil changes only in the gearbox.
- 💨 Purging of the carburetor in 2T models is more important because of the risk of coking the jelly with resins from the mixture.
Regardless of tact, the spark plugs are better twisted, inspected and, if necessary, replaced. In the cylinders through the candle holes, you can inject a little engine oil and several times slowly turn the crankshaft with a starter (pre-disabling the ignition coil) to create a protective film.
Final checks and preparation for the season
Once all the conservation procedures are complete, the motor must be covered with a breathable cover, the use of plastic film is prohibited, as it creates a greenhouse effect and contributes to the formation of condensation, the cloth cover will protect against dust, but will allow air to circulate.
During the winter, it is recommended to visit the storage site at least once and visually inspect the equipment, check whether there is rust, whether the rodents have chewed on the wires (which often happens in garages), and whether the leakage of the fuel tank has not been broken.
☑️ Checklist for winter preparations
In the spring, before the first start, do not rush to put the engine on the water. Check the oil level, the state of the fuel filter and candles. The first start is better done on the stand or in a barrel of water to make sure that the cooling system is working properly and there is no extraneous noise.
Proper preservation takes 2-3 hours, but saves up to 50% of the engine life and guarantees a confident start at the beginning of the season.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do I need to completely drain gasoline from the tank for the winter?
Yes, that's the right thing to do. Old gasoline loses its properties and forms resins. If it's not possible to drain completely, the tank should be filled to the brim with fresh fuel with a stabilizer to minimize oxidation and condensation.
Can I store the outboard motor at sub-zero temperatures?
Yes, you can if you've completely conserved water from the cooling system, replaced oil and treated surfaces, and the main danger is residual moisture, which, when frozen, can damage parts.
How often should you change the oil in the gearbox before storage?
The oil in the gearbox is recommended to be changed every season, regardless of the hours worked, and during operation, water could enter it through the glands, which will lead to corrosion of the gears during the winter.
Should I remove the motor from the transom during the winter?
Yes, it's better to store the motor horizontally or vertically on a stand indoors, and being on a transom constantly puts a strain on the lower unit and exposes the motor to temperature and humidity changes.