Efficient fishing is now impossible without navigational electronics, and the key element is the sonar that allows you to see the topography of the bottom and the accumulation of fish. However, owners of inflatable boats often face the dilemma of how to securely attach expensive equipment on a flexible cylinder that constantly deforms when moving and hitting waves. Incorrect installation can lead not only to loss of signal, but also to damage to the very body. transducer Or the loss of the device overboard.
Unlike metal or fiberglass boats, where you can drill holes and use stationary brackets, the boat is a sleek and sleek boat. PVC You have to consider the elasticity of the material of the sides, the risk of puncture and the need for rapid disassembly of the structure for transportation. In this article, we will discuss proven fixation methods that will ensure the stable operation of the sonar and the safety of your equipment in all operating conditions.
Before you start drilling a transom board or gluing sites, you need to clearly determine the type of mounting of the sensor, because all the further logic of installation depends on this. There are several main options, each of which has its advantages and disadvantages, depending on the design of your boat and the frequency of its use.
Choosing the optimal method of attaching the sensor
The first step in the installation process is to determine the location and method of installation of the emitter. For inflatable boats, the most popular two options are mounting on a transom board or using a remote holder on board. Mounting on a transom is considered a classic, because it ensures a stable position of the sensor relative to the bottom, which is critical for the correct display of the structure of the bottom.
But rigid transom-locking can be problematic if you often pull the boat ashore or store the sensor separately, and in these cases, removable brackets come to the rescue, which allow you to quickly dismantle the equipment. transducer It must be submerged in water strictly perpendicular to the surface, otherwise the angle of view of the sonar cone will be distorted, and you will lose useful information.
- 🛶 transom fastening - provides maximum stability of readings and protection of the sensor from impacts on the bottom at the correct angle of inclination.
- 🔩 Quick-removal brackets are ideal for those who do not want to leave equipment on the boat after fishing and appreciate mobility.
- 🌊 Floating holders – allow the sensor to follow the boat freely, eliminating the risk of damage to underwater obstacles, but can create sailing.
⚠️ Warning: When choosing the installation site, make sure that air bubbles from the propeller of the motor will not pass in the area of operation of the sensor, as they create strong interference and make the picture on the screen useless.
If you're planning to use a motorized boat, but also on oars or electric, consider mounting a sensor on a removable rod that attaches to the side, which avoids extra holes in the transom, and gives flexibility in adjusting the depth of immersion, the main thing here is to ensure the rigidity of the structure so that the sensor does not "walk" from side to side when moving.
Necessary tools and materials for installation
The quality of the installation depends on the preparation and availability of the right tools. PVC And you're going to need a kit with electronics that will allow you to do the installation in a neat and tight way, and you don't need to use any tools at your disposal, because vibration and water will quickly reveal any sloppy connections.
The focus should be on fasteners made of stainless steel or high-quality plastic that is resistant to ultraviolet and salt water. Conventional ferrous metal will rust after the first season, spoiling the appearance and reliability of the design. Also stock up on specialized adhesives and sealants designed specifically for polyvinyl chloride.
For laying the cable and fixing the elements you will need:
- 🔧 A drill or screwdriver with a set of drills (including first drills for the transom tree).
- 🔪 A sharp knife or scalpel for careful cleaning of the edges and working with PVC.
- 🧴 Degreasing agent (acetone or alcohol) and PVC glue (e.g. Texacol or Klejcol).
- 🔌 Silicone sealant (neutral, without acid odor) for waterproofing compounds.
Pay special attention to the wires. A standard sonar cable may be too rigid or short for your mounting scheme. Calculate the length of the track from the sensor to the location of the head unit, adding a margin of 15-20% for bypassing obstacles and possible switching. Use only a specialized offshore cable with shielding to avoid tips from the engine ignition system to lengthen the length.
☑️ Preparation for installation
Installation of the sensor on the transom board
Mounting the emitter on a wooden squirrel board is the most common method of providing a stable signal, but here lies the main risk: a leakproof board, which can lead to swelling and rotting. To avoid this, you must strictly adhere to the technology of drilling and waterproofing holes.
First, mark the bracket, which should be in the center of the transom or with a slight shift away from the propeller jet, but not too close to the edge to avoid air capture, drill the holes with a drill, the diameter of which corresponds to the fastening bolts, but with a small margin for the introduction of the sealant.
The critical thing is to treat the holes, and before you screw the bolts in, you can apply a silicone sealant profusely to each hole and to the bolt thread, and this creates an elastic plug that prevents moisture from entering the wood even when the board is microscopically deformed.
| Work segment | Action. | Important nuance |
|---|---|---|
| Markings | Definition of centre and height | Consider the angle of the transom |
| Drilling | Creating holes under the fasteners | Use a tree drill with a limiter |
| Hermetization | Filling holes with silicone | Be sure to fill the hole to the brim before inserting the bolt |
| Fixation | Tightening of the mounting bolts | Do not drag it so as not to break the tree. |
Once the bracket is installed, allow the sealant to dry completely within the time specified by the manufacturer (usually 24 hours), only after that you can attach the sensor itself and adjust its position. Adjust the angle of inclination is done experimentally on the water: achieve a vertical position of the working surface of the sensor when the boat moves.
What to do if the slender board is thin?
If the thickness of your trawler board is less than 25 mm, it is recommended to use reinforced brackets with a wide support pad or install an additional wooden varnished tarpad to distribute the load and avoid pressing the material when tightening the bolts.
Inflatable board attachment
For those who don't want to drill a transom, or who use soft-walled boats, mounting the sensor directly onto an inflatable balloon is a great solution, and it requires the utmost care, because any error can cost you buoyancy, and it's based on a special patch of pouch that sticks to PVC.
The process begins with a thorough surface preparation, the gluing site must be degreased and cleaned with fine sandpaper (if the material of the boat permits), or simply activated with a special composition, a patch of the same material is glued to the prepared area, or a finished PVC site with pasted threads is used.
The glue is applied in two steps: the first layer is rubbed into the surface and dried until it sticks, the second is applied after 10-15 minutes, after which the connection is made. Press the parts with force and roll from center to edges, removing the air bubbles. The quality glue is gaining full strength in a day.
The end site is equipped with a sensor holder that allows you to adjust the depth of immersion, and the advantage of this method is that it is easy to remove the sensor just by unscrewing it from the holder, leaving only a compact base on board, and in this way of mounting the sensor is less susceptible to impacts on solid objects in shallow water, since it is out of the dimensions of the transom.
⚠️ Warning: Never use a high concentration glue or solvent-based “moment” not intended for PVC – these can corrosive the tank material and disrupt the tightness of the boat.
Cable laying and display installation
Once the sensor is fixed, the cable is placed at the head, and you can't just throw it over the side or leave it lying on the floor, because it's going to get in the way, get tangled under your feet, and it can be accidentally damaged by a sharp object or eaten by a screw, and the right tracing is the key to the longevity of the system.
The cable should be run along the side, fixing it with special clips or seal in the color of the boat. If the cable passes through the holes in the transom board, be sure to use rubber sleeves or cartridges so that the sharp edge of the tree does not rub the insulation when vibrating. All wire connections, if any, should be thoroughly soldered and filled with adhesive shrinkage.
The head unit (display) is usually mounted on a removable basis. PVC Suction brackets (for rigid inserts) or special belts covering inflatable tubes are ideally suited, the screen should be positioned so that direct solar glare does not fall on it, and it should be easily accessible for control.
- 🔌 Use only original cable extensions to avoid losing the sensitivity of sonar.
- 🌞 Place the visor above the display if you plan to fish in sunny weather.
- 🔋 Consider a reliable mount for the battery, eliminating its fall to the bottom of the boat or into the water.
The sounder is best powered through a separate connector located in a convenient location so that you can quickly turn off the device. Remember that lithium or lead acid batteries require protection from moisture and short circuit. Place them in a sealed container or a special handkerchief.
When you lay the cable along the side, leave a small stock loop near the sensor and near the display, which will allow you to easily change the angle of the sensor or remove the screen for charging without creating tension of the wire.
Setup and testing of the system on water
The final step is to test the system in real-world conditions, and even a perfectly mounted sonar on land may require adjustments after launching, and the initial launch is best done at shallow depths to visually monitor the position of the sensor and the absence of bubbles.
Turn the device on and let it warm up. Pay attention to the bottom mapping: the line should be clear, without breaks and "noise." If you see a lot of interference, check the reliability of contacts and the absence of nearby sources of radio interference (for example, high-power walkie-talkie or cheap Chinese engines with bad squashing).
Run a series of test passes at different speeds, and if you lose a signal at high speed or porridge appears, the sensor is trapping air, in which case you need to lower the sensor deeper or change the angle of its inclination. For two-beam sonars, it is important to check the operation of both beams, making sure that they correctly display the structure under the boat.
A properly tuned sonar shows a clear bottom and responds to a change in depth instantly; any delays or noise are a sign of problems with the installation or sensitivity settings.
Be sure to check all buttons and menus after your hands have moistened or frozen a little. ergonomics of boat control is different from home control, and the location of the buttons should be intuitive. If you use additional sensors (temperatures, speeds), make sure their readings are also correct.
Maintenance and winter storage
Electronics in water conditions require regular maintenance. After every fishing, especially in salt water, equipment must be cleaned with fresh water and soft cloth. Salt, silt and fish mucus can oxidize contacts and damage the coating of the sensor, reducing its sensitivity.
Pay special attention to the condition of the cable in the exit of the sensor and connector. This is where the most common fractures occur veins. Periodically lubricate the connectors with special lubrication for electrical contacts (for example, silicone-based) to prevent corrosion and facilitate undocking.
For winter storage, the sonar and sensor should be removed, stored in a dry room at room temperature, in a straightened state (the cable should not be tightly twisted), the battery should also be removed, fully charged and periodically recharged during the winter period.
Can I leave a boat on a boat in winter?
It's not recommended. Low temperatures make plastic brittle, a-screens can leak or darken, and then left in plain sight equipment can be the target of theft, and it's better to keep the display and sensor warm.
Why does the sonar show arcs and not fish?
Arcs appear when a fish passes through the cone of the beam. If the arc is not present, maybe the refresh rate of the screen (scroll speed) is too high or too low, or the sensitivity is set up incorrectly. Try changing the scroll speed on the menu.
Does the thickness of the PVC boat's bottom affect the signal?
When you attach the sensor inside the boat (the bottom of the cherry), the signal will be very weak or absent due to the air between the bottom and the water. The sensor must be in contact with water, so mounting inside the inflatable floor is impossible without special devices that bring the emitter out.
How to protect the battery from water?
Use sealed plastic boxes with sealing gum. Wire power output through special cable inputs (sealed inputs) that tightly compress the cable, eliminating the penetration of moisture through the veins inside the case.
Do I need to calibrate the sounder after each installation?
Full calibration is rarely required, but resetting to factory settings (Default) can help if you notice a malfunction, and at the beginning of each season, it is advisable to check the settings of the language, units of measurement and contrast of the screen.