As the cold weather hits, every water transport owner faces a dilemma: should they leave the watercraft in the garage pumped up or blow it off and pack it in a bag? Reef or FlagshipThe right answer depends on the durability of the material, the condition of the seams and, ultimately, the safety on the water next season.
There are many myths and conflicting pieces of advice that people like to hear, some of which argue that stress on a material when pumped leads to degradation, others insist that temperature changes are more dangerous than static pressure, and in this article we will look at the physical and chemical processes that occur with polyvinyl chloride so that you can make an informed decision.
The choice of conservation strategy directly affects the resource of your property. Incorrect storage can lead to tissue stratification, loss of elasticity or the formation of microcracks in the folds. Let's study all aspects in detail, so that your boat will last for many years, pleasing reliability and tightness.
Physics of the process: the effect of pressure and temperature on PVC
Materials PVC (polyvinyl chloride)The silk that we use to make modern inflatable boats has a certain elasticity of shape, and when stored inflated, the fabric is in a state of constant tension, which creates an internal stress in the fibers that could theoretically contribute to accelerated aging of the material, especially if the boat is made from poor-quality raw materials or already has a significant mileage.
But deflatedness carries other, often more insidious risks: When the cylinders are deflated, the fabric collects into numerous folds and crevices. Constantly being in a state of laying at low temperatures can lead to irreversible adhesion of the inner layers of PVC and the formation of cracks in the folds. This is especially true for tight reinforcement models where the fabric stiffness is higher.
Temperature is critical: the extreme temperature changes that occur in unheated garages or cottages cause the material to shrink and expand, and when inflated, the volume of air inside the cylinders also changes, which can lead to overvoltage of the seams during warming or excessive compression during cooling.
It's also important to consider humidity: a blown boat packed tightly in a bag gets worse ventilated, and if the fabric is not dry enough, the packaging creates the perfect environment for mold and fungus to develop, which destroy the polymer structure, and the inflated state allows better air circulation around the surface of the cylinders.
Arguments in favor of storage in a deflated state
The traditional storage method that most owners use is complete cylinder deflation, and the main argument for this approach is to save space, and a blown-out boat takes up minimal space, which is critical for owners of small apartments or garages filled with tools and parts.
In addition, deflating eliminates the risk of joints rupturing due to pressure surges. If the room warms sharply, the air in the pumped cylinders will expand, and the pressure may exceed the permissible limits, especially in the places of gluing.
However, to minimize the damage from the folds, you need to follow the correct packaging technology, so you don't have to fold the boat the same way every time, but you need to change the fold lines at each package so that the load is distributed to different parts of the fabric.
- 📦 Saving usable space several times compared to an inflated boat.
- 🌡️ No risk of suture rupture due to air expansion during warming.
- 🛡️ Smaller surface for settling dust and dirt in open form.
- 🔄 The possibility of compact transportation for dry cleaning or repair in the workshop.
It is worth noting that for inflatable floor boats (BBBD), deflation is a mandatory preparation step, as the floor design is not designed for prolonged static stress in winter. squirt-board, should also be extracted.
When packing a deflated boat, try not to make sharp clamps. Use soft rollers made of fabric or foam at the places of the bend so that the bend radius is smoother.
Advantages and risks of storage in an inflated state
Keeping a boat partially or fully pumped is becoming increasingly popular among professionals, and the main advantage of this method is the lack of folds. The fabric is straightened, which prevents the formation of microcracks on the folds and preserves the elasticity of the material for many years.
With the right approach, the inflated state allows you to do a visual inspection of the boat at any time, and you'll notice right away if you have a fistula or start poisoning the valve, which is only detectable when you blow it out in the next spring, which is especially important for boats that are operating in difficult conditions.
But there are also serious risks: the main enemy of an inflated boat is heat, and if the room where the boat is stored is subject to heating (for example, a garage under a metal roof in the sun), the pressure inside the cylinders can rise to critical values, which can rupture the seams or even explode the cylinder.
In addition, the inflated boat takes up a lot of space and requires special conditions for placement: hanging or mounting on wide supports to avoid point pressure on the bottom. Poor garage floor can damage the material from below.
- 🎈 The absence of folds and crevices, preserving the structure of PVC.
- 👀 The ability to quickly detect small punctures and leaks.
- 💨 Better surface ventilation, reducing the risk of mold formation.
- 🧱 Preservation of the geometry of the product and the shape of the seams.
The optimal pressure for winter storage in inflated form is no more than 0.15-0.2 atm. cylinders should be soft to the touch, like a pillow.
Comparative analysis of storage methods
To make a final decision, you need to systematize the pros and cons of both approaches, and below is a table that will help you assess the risks and requirements for each method depending on your conditions.
| Comparison parameter | Storage deflated | Storage inflated |
|---|---|---|
| Space occupied | Minimum (bag) | Significant (requires space) |
| Risk of cracking in the folds | High (with long storage) | Missing. |
| Risk of rupture from temperature changes | Missing. | High (without pressure control) |
| Protection from rodents | Tall (in bag/box) | Low (available from all sides) |
| Convenience of preparing for the season | It takes time to pump. | Ready to use (pressure check) |
As you can see from the table, each method has its own weaknesses, and the key to choosing is often not the specifications of the boat, but the conditions in which it will winter, and if you do not have a heated room with a stable temperature, the risks of inflated storage increase many times over.
For newer models with high margins of material, both options are acceptable. For boats that are over 5-7 years old, inflated storage can be stressful for an already "tired" PVC, and it is better to be safe by choosing a deflated position with the correct stowage.
Effect of UV on storage
Even if the boat is stored in a garage, make sure it doesn't get direct sunlight through the windows. UV radiation breaks down the molecular bonds of PVC, making the material fragile. The inflated state is even more dangerous, because the exposure area is larger.
Preparing the boat for the winter season: step-by-step instructions
Regardless of the storage method chosen, preparing the boat for winter requires careful implementation of a number of procedures, and ignoring these steps can negate all the benefits of choosing the right position of cylinders.
The first and most important step is washing, and during the season, sand, silt, fish slime and gasoline stains accumulate on the surface, all of which must be removed using specialized means or a mild soap solution, and abrasive powders are strictly forbidden to use.
☑️ Checklist for winter preparations
After washing, the boat needs to be perfectly dried, the moisture left in the folds or under the valves will turn into ice when frozen, which can damage the material, and it is better to dry at room temperature in a straightened form, avoiding direct heat sources like batteries or heaters.
If you've chosen to store in a deflated form, use talc to treat the surface. It will prevent the sides of PVC from sticking together. Wrap the boat up not too tight, trying to avoid sharp corners. To store inflated form, it is enough to minimize the pressure and hang the boat by slings or lay it on a flat surface covered with soft material.
⚠️ Warning: Never keep a PVC boat near heating appliances, open flames or spark sources. Polyvinyl chloride is a combustible material and can release toxic substances when heated.
Optimal microclimate conditions for wintering
Temperature is the second most important factor after cleanliness: the ideal temperature for storing PVC products is the range from +5 to +20 degrees Celsius. Freezing the material is undesirable, because at negative temperatures, plasticizers that give PVC elasticity crystallize, and the material becomes brittle.
Humidity also plays a role: too dry air (less than 30%) can help dry the material, and too wet (more than 70%) can cause mold growth. The optimal level is 50-60%. Garages are often damp, so it is recommended to use silica gel bags, placing them inside or near the boat bag.
Light mode involves the total absence of direct sunlight. Ultraviolet is the main enemy of polymers. Even diffuse light through a window for several winter months can lead to color change (yellowness) and a decrease in the strength of the upper layer of tissue.
Rodent protection is another critical issue: Mice and rats often choose warm secluded wintering areas, and soft, food-smelling (fish residues!) PVC is a welcome prey. A blown-out boat in a dense bag lying on the floor is more vulnerable than a hung under the ceiling.
- 🌡️ Avoid the extreme temperature changes that are typical of metal garages.
- 💧 Control the humidity using moisture absorbers.
- ☀️ Provide full protection from ultraviolet radiation.
- 🐀 Take measures to protect against rodents (ultrasonic repellents, traps).
Compliance with these conditions will keep the technical specifications of your boat at the factory level. Remember that quality preservation is an investment in your safety and enjoyment from fishing next season.
⚠️ Warning: If you keep a boat on the balcony, make sure to cover it with an opaque, breathable cover. Direct sunlight in winter, reflected from the snow, acts on PVC destructively.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I keep a PVC boat in the cold?
Storage at low temperatures is not recommended. The material becomes brittle, and any mechanical impact (for example, if something falls on the boat or it is touched) can lead to cracks. If there is no other way out, the boat needs to be very carefully dried, treated with talc and packed in a dense box to minimize contact with cold air.
Should I let the air down completely or leave it a little?
When stored in deflated form, the air must be vented as much as possible so that the boat takes up a minimum volume. When stored inflated form, the pressure should be minimal (0.15-0.2 atm) to compensate for possible temperature changes, but maintain the shape of the cylinders.
How often should I check my boat in winter?
It is recommended to conduct a visual inspection once a month, check if mold has appeared, if the pressure in the cylinders has changed (during inflated storage), and if rodents have penetrated, it is also useful to ventilate the room.
How to process PVC before storage?
It is best to use special PVC care products that contain UV filters and plasticizers, and in extreme cases, you can use ordinary talc (baby powder) to prevent surfaces from sticking together during deflated storage.