Inflatable watercraft require a special approach to attachment equipment, as any error in the mounting can cost the integrity of the balloon. Anchor rum It's one of the key elements of the tooling that makes it safe to park on the water, and if it's not properly operated, it often causes the anchor to break, damage to the transom, or, worst of all, a balloon to puncture under load.
Many owners PVC boats They make the same mistake of tying the phala directly to the bow or transom, without the need for additional elements, which creates a dangerous situation when the wind or current is strong, the boat begins to turn on the side to the wave, and the competent use of the rim allows you to control the position of the vessel and minimize the risks.
In this article, we will discuss in detail how to choose the optimal place for mounting, which nodes to use and how to avoid typical errors. Critically Let’s look at all the nuances of safe parking.
Selection of installation site and types of anchorages
The first step is always to determine the mounting point. Flagship or AquaThe main objective is to provide a elevation angle where the boat will stand up against the wind with its nose.
If there is no regular river, it can be installed independently, using special sites under the glueIt is important to choose a place on the cylinder where, when stretched, the rope will not rub against the sharp corners of the transom board or fittings. The use of plastic or metal framing bolts requires careful sealing of the passage of the fastener through the fabric.
What material would you choose?
Metal stainless steel is longer-lasting, but heavier and colder to the touch. Plastic models are lighter and cheaper, but may lose strength over time under the influence of ultraviolet. For small boats up to 3 meters, plastic is fine, for larger boats it is better to choose stainless steel.
There are several options for fixing:
- 🔹 The staff ring on the nose can is suitable for calm water.
- 🔹 A separate shell bolt on the cylinder requires professional pasting.
- 🔹 Fixing to a liner cable is a versatile, but less reliable option.
When choosing a location, make sure that tension-line It doesn't cut the sharp edges, even a little bit of scuffing on the tank under load can lead to depressurization, always check the condition of the tissue in the contact area with the fasteners before each trip.
Armor tack anchorage arrangements
There are two main ways to attach the anchor end: rigid and sliding. Rigid attachment involves fixing the rope directly to the rim, which is only permissible during or without wind when the boat is not turning, otherwise it is dangerous.
The sliding mount (through an anchor ring or a separate ring on the flounder) is safer, allowing the anchor to be quickly released if necessary by pulling at the free end if it is stuck at the bottom. anchorThe rope that goes through.
Use a carbine with a vertebra to connect the fail and the roe – this will prevent twisting the rope and make it easier to uncoup the anchor in strong winds.
Let’s look at the main elements of proper binding:
- 🎣 The main anchor tack with a thickness of at least 6-8 mm.
- 🎣 Sliding ring or second rim at a distance of 1-2 meters from the anchor.
- 🎣 Buffer load (multifos) lowered on a separate rope in the middle of the phala.
Remember, the length of the tile should be 3-4 times the depth of the parking lot. Short tile increases the angle of pulling the anchor, reducing its holding capacity. fixation ensures that the legs of the anchor will burrow into the ground, rather than slide over it.
Safe anchoring technique
The anchoring process begins long before you touch the rope. You need to assess the direction of the wind and current. The boat has to approach the stand point against the wind or current, whichever is stronger. PVC We can't.
You should drop the anchor from the leeward side so that the rope does not get tangled by the engine or oars. After touching the bottom, you should slowly roll back, choosing a slack until the anchor catches. anchor-ripA sharp load on an unreliable fastener can cause the fastener to be pulled out of the cylinder.
☑️ Checking before anchoring
It's important to control the angle between the phalt and the bottom, and if the angle is too big, the anchor will pull out. cockpit In windy weather, the boat can start to pump, which creates dynamic loads on the anchorage points.
Always carry a flap-cutting knife in an emergency. If the anchor is stuck and the wind is getting stronger, it's better to lose anchor than the boat or life.
Table of selection of type of fastening depending on conditions
The choice of fixation method depends on the external conditions, and here is a comparison table that will help determine how to attach in a particular situation, and ignoring these recommendations can lead to unpleasant consequences.
| Conditions | Type of attachment | Risks. | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stile, shallow depth | Hard to the nose. | Minimum | Permissible. |
| Winds up to 5 m/s | Sliding + buffer | The lagom reversal | Use mul phos |
| Strong current | Two anchors (for-acht) | Fail break | Only experienced. |
| Rocky bottom | sliding with a wrench | Stucking | Mandatory uncoupling |
As you can see from the table, there is no one-size-fits-all solution. For rocky bottoms, the ability to uncouple is critical, otherwise you risk losing anchor. In windy weather, the main thing is to avoid turning the boat sideways to the wave, which can lead to the boat turning to the wave. tipping (turning over).
Typical errors and precautions
⚠️ Attention: Never wind an anchor tile on your arm or leg when working with an anchor on the current. A sharp jerk can lead to severe injuries or drowning.
One of the most common mistakes is mounting the fag to the ducks (metal rings) on the transom, and when the wind is strong, the boat turns around, and it starts to reverse, drawing water with a transom. flyboat It's deadly. The anchor should always be on the nose.
Another mistake is using too thin rope. Thin phala hurts hands when sampling and can burst under load. The optimal thickness for PVC boats up to 4 meters in length is 6-8 mm. Also, do not use chains instead of cable on the inhalations - they are heavy and can damage the balloon if handled sloppy.
⚠️ Attention: Do not store wet anchor tile in a closed kunduk. Raw rope rots quickly, loses strength and acquires an unpleasant smell that is difficult to remove.
Check your condition regularly fixing-pieceThe screws of the bolts can weaken with vibration. It is recommended to pass them with a sealant before each season and check the puff. Pay special attention to the places where the platforms are glued to the cylinder - detachment of the fabric is unacceptable here.
Care for anchor equipment
After every fishing trip, especially in salt water, the anchor and the thal must be washed with fresh water, the salt aggressively affects the metal and synthetic fibers, and if the anchor is iron, it must be wiped dry and greased to avoid corrosion, which can stain the metal. PVC boats.
The rope should be dried in the open, in the shade. Direct sunlight destroys the structure of polypropylene and nylon. Wet-wrapped folds can "remember" this shape and will be constantly confused the next fishing. Proper care extends the life of the equipment at times.
Timely drying and washing of the anchor system is a guarantee that at a critical moment the rope will not burst, and the metal will not crumble from rust.
Keep the anchor separate from the boat if possible. A heavy metal object when transported inflated or even deflated can damage the fabric. It is better to use a separate case for anchor and accessories. This will preserve the integrity of your boat.
Can I use the anchor rum for towing?
Absolutely not. PVC boat anchors are not designed for dynamic towing loads. For this purpose, there are special towing rings on the nose or transom, reinforced with additional tapes. Attempting tow through the anchor frack will cause the mount to be detached and the cylinder to damage.
What weight anchor is optimal for a PVC boat?
The weight of the anchor should be approximately 10% of the displacement of the boat with a load. For a standard two-seater boat (up to 250 kg of load), an anchor weighing 2-3 kg is enough. A heavier anchor will be difficult to lift manually, and a lighter one may not hold the boat when the wind is amplified.
What if the anchor is stuck?
Don't pull the boat sharply. Try to approach the anchor from different angles, changing the angle of tension of the tile. If possible, put on a mask and dive to assess the situation. In extreme cases, if you used a sliding ring scheme, pull the boat to the mounting point and pull the free end, the anchor should turn over and exit.