Invariably, the operation of an inflatable vessel involves risks that lie in wait for the owner on the water and during transportation: sharp stones on the shore, snags sticking out of the water, broken glass or metal fittings on unequipped piers are all potential enemies. cylinders Even the densest five-layer pvc material is not immune to accidental puncture, which can turn a pleasant fishing or walk into an emergency.
That is why many boaters think about installing additional protection, popularly known as "armor". Armour tape. This is a special polyurethane or rubber band of increased strength, which takes the brunt of mechanical impact, and the installation of such protection is not just cosmetic tuning, but a necessary measure to extend the life of the craft and maintain tightness.
The process of sticking armored tape requires careful preparation, compliance with temperature and the use of high-quality adhesive compounds. Errors during the installation stage can lead to detachment of the protection or, worse, to damage to the main material of the boat. In this article, we will discuss all the subtleties of the selection of materials and application technology that guarantees reliable grip and durability of your boat. PVC products.
Materials: Which armor will protect the bottom better
The first step to reliable protection is to choose the right material, and there are many options on the market that differ in thickness, composition and method of installation. TPU (thermopolyurethane) or dense polyvinyl chloride with a reinforcement mesh, TPU is highly elastic and abrasion resistant, making it ideal for the bottom.
It is important to consider the thickness of the armored tape. Too thin a strip will not save from a serious impact, and excessively thick can create unnecessary ledges that will cling to obstacles and prevent the boat from folding into the water. transport-bagThe thickness is 2 to 4 mm for the main bottom and 1.5-2 mm for the sides.
When choosing a tape, pay attention to the presence of an already applied adhesive layer - this will greatly simplify installation, but will require faster and more accurate work when gluing.
The adhesive composition plays no less a role than the tape itself. PVC The materials use two-component polyurethane adhesives, which after drying form an elastic and water-resistant seam. The use of "Moments" or other household adhesives is unacceptable, as they will not withstand dynamic loads and constant contact with water.
- 🛡️ TPU tape: It has maximum strength to break and resistance to abrasion, ideal for the bottom.
- 🧪 Two-part glue: provides chemical welding of materials, creating a monolithic connection.
- 📏 3 mm thickness: The middle ground between protection and weight is suitable for most operating conditions.
Surface preparation: the key to successful adhesion
The quality of surface preparation determines 80% of the success of the entire operation. Even the most expensive glue will not keep the armor on a dirty, greasy or wet surface. The first thing you need to do is wash the boat thoroughly using detergents to remove sand, silt, fish mucus and other contaminants. After washing, the cylinders must dry completely.
The next step is degreasing, which is using acetone, white spirits, or a special degreaser. Do not use solvents containing chlorine or aggressive additives that can damage the structure of PVCDegreasing is done in two stages: first wipe the surface, then wait for the solvent to evaporate and rub again with clean rags.
Mechanical treatment is also necessary if the surface of the balloon is glossy or factory impregnated. Easy cleaning with fine sandpaper (grain 240-400) will create micro scratches that increase the contact area of the glue, the main thing is not to overdo it and do not damage the power tissue.
☑️ Preparation for the armor sticker
Special attention should be paid to temperature regime. Work is best done indoors at temperatures from +15 to +25 degrees Celsius. High humidity or cold can drastically reduce adhesion of the glue, and direct sunlight will accelerate its drying out ahead of time.
Marking and unpacking armored vehicles
Before applying the glue, you need to clearly identify the areas that will be protected. The standard scheme includes the nose of the cylinders (about 1 meter), the central part of the bottom under the banks and the points of contact with the transom, and often protect the lower part of the sides to avoid damage when dragging the boat along the shore.
The belt is cut with the balloon geometry in mind. Because the side is rounded, the straight strip can fit loosely to the edges. It is recommended to make small incisions "fringe" along the edges of the tape in places of strong bending, so that it lies exactly without folds and air pockets.
You can use a water-based marker that is easily washed off, or paint tape, to mark the exact markings, and then stick tape bands around the perimeter of the future armor, and that will serve as a guide and protect the adjacent areas from getting glue.
Do I need to warm the tape before the sticker?
Heating the armored tape with a building hair dryer to 40-50 degrees makes the material more elastic, which is especially useful when pasting the nasal cones, where the radius of the bend is large, warm tape is better to repeat the contours of the balloon and easier to roll.
When you cut it, it's important to leave small let-ups at the joints if you're flapping the armour, or to make precise gaps of 1-2 mm if you dock. The glue can spread a little when smoothed, so cutting accuracy minimizes subsequent trimming of the surplus.
Technology of applying glue and installation
The gluing process begins with the preparation of the adhesive composition. If you use a two-part adhesive, you must mix the base and hardener in a strict proportion specified by the manufacturer (usually 100:4 or 100:5). Mix the composition carefully to homogeneity and let it settle for 5-10 minutes to release the air bubbles.
The adhesive is applied in a thin, uniform layer on both glued surfaces, both the low-fat tank and the inside of the armored tape. It is convenient to use a hard brush or spatula. After application, you need to wait until the primary drying time is applied — usually 10-15 minutes until the glue stops sticking to the fingers, but will retain stickiness.
| Phase | Action. | Time/Parameters |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | First layer application | Thin layer, evenly |
| 2 | Primary drying | 10-15 minutes (until lip) |
| 3 | Application of the second layer | You must have both surfaces. |
| 4 | Final drying | 15-20 minutes. |
| 5 | Sticking | Rolling with roller |
After drying the second layer (also 10-15 minutes), you can start to join. Carefully apply the tape to the marked place. Since the glue has already grasped, it will be difficult to move the tape, so try to get the first time.
To remove air and ensure close contact, a hard rubber roller is used, and the movement must be directed from the center to the edges, squeezing out the air bubbles, and if the bubble is still there, you can gently punctur it with a needle and roll it back, but it is better to avoid this.
The main secret of a strong connection is a two-fold application of glue with a complete drying of each layer and the subsequent strong roller roller at an angle of 90 degrees.
Features of gluing complex areas and seams
The greatest difficulties arise when pasting the nose of the cylinders and the area around transomHere, the surfaces are complexly curved, and the armor in these places is better glued in separate segments or use narrower stripes that are easier to bend.
At the points where the power belts (stringers) that go along the cylinder, the armor should be glued over them, but with special care to roll the edges, it is at the edges of the power belts that air pockets are most often formed, which over time can lead to detachment.
⚠️ Warning: When pasting the area around the valves and drain stoppers, be extremely careful. Do not block access to the valve and do not allow glue to enter the mechanism. It is recommended to cut neat holes in the armored tape under these elements.
The joints between the pieces of armored tape (if you are gluing it with a single piece) should be minimal. It is better to make them overlaid about 2-3 cm, carefully smearing the joint area with glue. If you make a gap, sand and dirt will be clogged there, which will lead to the edges breaking off.
For angular connections, for example, at the junction of the balloon and the transom, you can use a technique called "thermal formation." If you heat the TPU tape with a hairdryer, you can give it the desired shape by pressing it against the corner. Once cooled, the material will retain the desired configuration.
- 🔥 Heating: Use a hair dryer to form a tape at difficult angles.
- ✂️ Incisions: Make fan incisions on the inside of the ribbon bend.
- 🔄 Blow: Dock the pieces with overlap of at least 2 cm for tightness.
Drying, quality control and first water launch
Once the work is done, the boat takes time to fully polymerize the adhesive, and although the stickiness disappears quickly, the final strength of the compound is gained within 24 to 48 hours, during which time the boat cannot be inflated, loaded or left under direct sunlight.
After a day, do a visual inspection. Run your hand around the edges of the armor - there should be no detachment or bloating. If you find an air bubble, you can try to remove it with a thin needle syringe, injecting a little solvent (acetone) under the tape, and then roll it.
The first launch is best done in a calm place, without sharp objects. Let the boat stand on the water for several hours, so that the material and glue adapt to the water temperature. After the first operation, be sure to check the condition of the edges of the armored tape - if there are signs of detachment.
Regular care of an armored boat is simple: wash it after every fishing trip, especially if you have been swimming in salt water or mud. Periodically check the integrity of the adhesive seam. If properly mounted, this protection will last as long as the boat itself.
⚠️ Warning: Never use the boat immediately after the armor is labeled. Insufficient drying time during loading (inflating) will lead to irreversible displacement of the tape and the formation of folds that will no longer be able to remove.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I put armor on an old, worn boat?
Yes, but it does require more preparation. Old PVC often has an oxidized layer, it needs to be gently cleaned with sandpaper to the "live" material, degreased and then glued. If the fabric of the boat has deep cracks or stratifications, repair of the basic material is required first.
Which glue is better: for PVC or polyurethane?
For TPU armor (thermopolyurethane), polyurethane two-component adhesives (such as Desmocoll or their analogues) are best suited to glue. They create an elastic seam that does not crack on the curves. Conventional PVC glue may be less effective for some types of armored tape, read the instructions for a specific adhesive composition.
Do I need to remove the old armor before the new one is placed?
If the old armor is strong, it's not blisters, it's not damaged, it's not allowed to be removed, it's enough to degrease the surface, lightly hide it, and glue the new tape over it, and if there's decay or detachment under the old tape, it needs to be removed using a hair dryer and mechanical cleaning.
Does armor affect the speed and handling of the boat?
Armor adds weight (approximately 1-2 kg per boat) and slightly increases sailing if glued high on board. The difference is almost imperceptible on planing. However, the smooth surface of a quality TPU armor can even improve water sliding compared to rough factory surfaces.