Polyvinyl chloride inflatable boats have long become the standard for fishing and recreation on the water due to their reliability and portability, but their main advantage - the ability to transport compactly - becomes a problem if you want to use them in a safe and secure way. packaging Many owners are faced with a situation where after winter storage, cracks or crevices are found on the material, which significantly reduces the life of the product.
Improper storage and chaotic stuffing of equipment into the bag create excessive pressure on the seams and fabric. PVC It has a memory, and if you keep it crumpled for a long time under load, the structure of the polymers breaks down, which leads to a loss of elasticity and, as a result, to depressurization of the cylinders at the most inopportune moment on the water.
In this article, we will discuss a detailed algorithm of actions that will allow you to avoid common mistakes, you will learn why you can not fold a wet vessel and how to organize the space inside. transpire All the equipment is at hand and the boat is intact.
Preparation of the boat for packaging: drying and cleaning
The first and most critical step is to remove moisture completely, even a small amount of water left inside cylinders or on the floor, during prolonged storage can cause mold and unpleasant odor. glued.
The drying process should be started immediately after returning from the reservoir, you should completely defuse the air and straighten the boat on a flat surface, preferably in the shade, as direct sunlight can overheat the material. pyeolwhere the moisture stagnates most often.
In parallel with drying, the surface is cleaned of dirt, sand and organic residues. Abrasive particles that fall between the layers of tissue when folded work like sandpaper, rubbing the protective layer. Use warm water and a soft sponge to wash, avoiding aggressive chemistry that can dissolve. plasticizer PVC.
⚠️ Warning: Never pack a wet boat in a sealed case for long-term storage, guaranteed to cause fungus and corrosion of aluminum elements if present in the structure.
If you use a boat in salt water, freshwater washing becomes a mandatory procedure, the salt crystallizes and when the tissue is flexed, the sharp edges of the crystals can microscopically damage the structure of the material, which over time will lead to microcracks.
Dismantling of attachments and preparation of paiola
Before you start to fold the boat, you need to dismantle all removable elements, which include seats (banks), holders for fishing rods, anchor rings and door-wheelEvery detail is better to wipe dry rags before laying, to prevent the transfer of moisture to the main fabric.
Special attention is required to disassemble the floor. If your boat is equipped with floorboard of aluminum or plywood sheets, they must be removed and dried separately. Metal profiles and stringers also require thorough drying, as the oxidation of aluminum in the enclosed space of the case is unacceptable.
Should I lubricate the stringers?
Lubricating stringers with regular oil is not recommended, as it can stain the fabric of the boat and attract dust. It is better to use a silicone spray, which creates a protective film that repels water, but does not soil the hands and material.
All small accessories, such as remixes, pumps and valve keys, should be collected in a separate bag. Chaotically thrown metal objects in a case can cause mechanical damage when shaking during the process. transportation.
For inflatable keel boats, it is important to position the keel correctly after deflation, and it should not form sharp folds across the main cylinders, otherwise, the next time you pump, this place will form a deformation that affects driving performance.
Technology of proper deflating of cylinders
Many beginners make the mistake of trying to squeeze air out of cylinders by standing on them with their feet or using external heavy objects. This approach creates uneven pressure that can damage the internal bulkheads. granule.
The best way to do this is to twist the cylinders from the stern to the nose, to drive the air out through the open valve, and when the bulk of the air is released, the valve closes, and the final twist is done to remove the residues, and it's important not to twist the cylinders into the tourniquet too much, just remove the excess volume for compactness.
When deflating, you must ensure that the valves are in the upper position or protected from sand and dirt. trap-valve This can lead to a jamming and inability to pump the boat properly next time.
If you use a boat at low temperatures, the material becomes less elastic, and in such conditions, you need to blow it out faster until the fabric has completely cooled, or you need to bring the boat into a warm room for the final package.
The rules of folding: avoiding the clutter
The most important thing is to form a bundle. The basic rule is that the bending lines should not be the same. If you keep folding the boat down the same line, that's where the cracks will appear in a few seasons. flexion.
The best way to roll the boat is to turn it around by an envelope or a roll, and you turn the sides in, then you fold it in half or three times as wide, and then you roll it from nose to stern, and you get a tight, neat cylinder that fits in the case very easily.
You don't want to curl the boat up into the smallest possible lump, because the over-sealing creates a huge internal strain on the tissues, which is particularly harmful to the body. reinforced PVCThe size of the rolled-up boat shall be such that it fits into the cover without the use of brute physical force.
⚠️ Attention: Avoid sharp classes on cylinders. A fold with a clearly defined rib is a potential point of tearing when pumped. The folds should be smooth and round.
For large boats with a wide balloon system, you can use the double-folding technique, where the sides are turned not once, but twice before starting to twist, which helps to evenly distribute the volume and avoid bloating in the middle of the rolled-up roll.
Laying equipment and forming a layer of protection
The right way to put things in a case is to distribute weight and protect vulnerabilities. Heavy and hard objects like paiola, pump and anchor should never lie directly on the cylinders. There should be a layer of fabric or soft things in between.
The ideal laying pattern is this: a rolled-up boat is placed at the bottom of the cover (or on a special shelf, if any), and on top of it, but with a deviation from the sides, the paiola is placed in a cover or in a soft wrap, on top or on the sides, a pump, seats and the rest are placed. stock.
☑️ Stowage procedure
Use regular pockets for small items. If pockets are not enough, buy or sew an additional organizer. Stretched around the bag keys, carbines and small details can find a weak spot in the fabric of the boat and damage it.
If your case has soft walls, this is great protection for the boat. If the bag is made of thin fabric (as is often the case in basic configurations), it is recommended to purchase or make an additional protective cover made of dense material that is worn on the boat itself before packaging.
Specific packaging for different types of boats
The different designs of boats require a personalized approach to packaging. Hard bottom boats (HBBs) are more sensitive to pressure points from stringers, so their stowage requires special care. inflatable floor boats (HBBs) are more compact, but require careful drying of internal chambers.
For motorboats, it's important to pack the transom right. If the transom is removable, it's best to store it separately or along the side so that it doesn't press on the valves. The non-removable transom, when folded, creates a thickening that needs to be compensated by the correct location in the valves. transport-bag.
| Type of boat | Feature of packaging | Risk of damage | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| inflatable floor (NDB) | Requires thorough drying of the keel | Rotting tissue inside | Place it completely for drying |
| Hard bottomed (floorboard) | Heavy, voluminous paiola | Thonger balloon puncture | Use a floorboard case |
| Rowing (no transmutant) | Compact packaging | Loss of the keys | Fixing the keys in your pocket |
| Motor (with transcens) | Uneven thickness | The transom's creases | Turn from nose to transom |
Owners of boats with elliptical cylinders should remember that they are less resistant to lateral compressions when packaged. When packing in a bag, try not to put heavy objects on top of them that can flatten the cylinder into a pancake, creating unnecessary stress in the seams.
Storage and seasonal conservation
Once the boat is packed, the question arises of where it is stored, the ideal option is a dry, dark room with room temperature, and the garage is suitable if it is heated or at least well ventilated and does not freeze to extreme temperatures.
It is not recommended to keep a packed boat on a balcony in direct sunlight or outdoors. Ultraviolet breaks down the top layer of PVC, making it brittle, and temperature swings cause condensation inside the case, even if the boat was dry. The temperature of storage shall not exceed +40°C and shall fall below -15°C for the packaged product.
Once every six months during winter storage, remove the boat from the case, straighten and check for mold or the smell of dampness, which will prolong the life of the material.
If you keep the boat in limbo (which is acceptable for some models in the straightened form), make sure that the suspension points do not create a point pressure.
Before final laying for the winter, you can treat the outer surface with a special PVC care product that contains UV filters and plasticizers, which will help maintain the elasticity of the material during prolonged downtime.
⚠️ Warning: Do not keep the boat near open fire sources, heaters or chemical tanks. Gasoline, oils and solvent vapors can irreversibly damage the structure of polyvinyl chloride.
Compliance with these simple but important rules will allow your boat to last for many years, maintaining its performance and safety. Proper packaging is a minimal investment of time, which pays off the lack of expensive repairs and confidence in the reliability of the vessel.
Can I keep a PVC boat in an unheated garage in winter?
Yes, but with reservations: the temperature should not fall below the maximum permissible for your model (usually up to -30...-40 ° C material withstands, but becomes brittle), the main thing is to exclude moisture and direct sunlight, as well as contact with rodents, it is advisable to lift the cover above the floor.
How to remove the smell of rubber from a new boat before packing?
The smell of new PVC is normal, and you can speed up the weathering process by leaving the boat straightened in a ventilated room (not in the sun) for a few days. The use of flavors inside the case is not recommended, because the chemistry can react with the material.
Do I need to completely flush air before storage?
For long-term storage, yes, the boat needs to be completely blown away. Half-inflated storage is only possible in the off-season in a warm room and no more than a few weeks, since temperature changes can cause seams to rupture due to changes in the volume of air inside.
What if the boat is frozen in the cover?
Do not attempt to bend, twist or pump it when frozen, put the case in a warm room and let it warm for 12 to 24 hours, and only after the material is soft can you begin unpacking and checking.